A blog about art and illustration.
A Prusa MINI ígérete az, hogy hasonló nyomtatási minőséget biztosít mint a zászlóshajó Prusa Mk3, de mindezt féláron teszi.
Prusa Mk3S 3D nyomtató továbbfejlesztési ötltetek ismertetése linkekkel, magyarázatokkal.
Eshop by Prusa Research a.s., company founded by Josef Prusa, one of the RepRap core developers. We're selling Original Prusa 3D printers (incl. Prusa MK4, Prusa XL), filaments (especially our in-house made Prusament), resins, and other accessories for 3D printing.
Mega Prusa I3: The Prusa Titan concept was first introduced by the company named BluePrinted.com.au on October 8 2014, however to this day the company did not publish the blueprint's for the build of the large Prusa i3 3D printer. Because i found the concept very…
T-Rex skeleton (found in Thingiverse) printed by Javier Huertas on Prusa i3 MK3S. Thank you MakerBot for sharing this amazing model! #prusai3 #trex #thingiverse #toysandgames #prototyping #tyranosaur #3dprint #3dprinting #cults3d #makerbot
Multiple type camera mount for Prusa MK3 on left Z-motor.-Raspberry Pi Zero W case (Pi base plate v2 + nut of choice)-Xiamo Yi (DSLR shoe + nut of cho
Still waiting on your Prusa Mini to arrive? Join the club. Between the incredible amount of interest in the inexpensive 3D printer and the COVID-19 pandemic, it can take months for the machine to a…
/!\ A NEW VERSION HAS BEEN RELEASED /!\Bear Frame 2.1 has been released and all informations are available here:https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_b
3d printer with 5 head, by josphprusa
Cytat z dzieła Bolesława Prusa dotyczy idei przemijania, zmian i konieczności iść naprzód z szacunkiem do przeszłości.
Prusa i3 Rework Introduction - RepRapWiki
See the official video:https://youtu.be/oS7ZtBNh2hEFollow the Mikolas Zuza's tutorial article on:https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-pr
We are introducing the Original Prusa i3 MK3! It is improved, silent, reliable, faster, convenient and most importantly SMARTER! Read more at http://www.prus...
This is a modified version of iwagner's Prusa MMU2S Rear PTFE Holder. For the original model and instructions, visit their Thingiverse post (thingiverse.com/thing:3657251). Like many MMU2S owners, I had a few issues with the PTFE tube setup - in particular, their "sandwich" clamp design that fails to put pressure on all 5 tubes. iwagner's excellent design worked great, but it was pretty easy to strip the modeled-in threads with the pneumatic couplers. This version uses threaded inserts to keep everything aligned well, and prevents thread stripping. So far, it's worked great, introducing only a bit of friction into the filament path. I'm sure I could reduce that in a future redesign if it becomes an issue. Bill of materials*: 200mm PTFE Tubing (2mm ID, 4mm OD) (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PZ5MY4) 5x PC4-M5 Pneumatic Fittings (https://www.amazon.com/WMYCONGCONG-PC4-M5-Pneumatic-Straight-Fitting/dp/B07VDW3NN9/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=pc4m5&qid=1565066168&s=industrial&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1) 5x M5 Threaded Inserts (https://www.amazon.com/Products-Insert-Fitting-Injection-Molding/dp/B07KNYZNWN/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=m5+brass+inserts&qid=1588135074&sr=8-5) *You may be able to find these parts for cheaper online. The provided links are the specific parts I had laying around. Printing instructions: This model uses bridge-based overhang prevention (https://brentwerder.design/2019/12/14/tricking-my-printer-to-print-perfect-overhangs/) features, which allow it to be printed with no support material using the proper slicer settings. Ensure that "Detect Bridging Perimeters" is enabled, and the bridge angle is set to "automatic," or 0. The part should print vertically, with the five hole profiles against the bed. If your slicer output does not show optimal bridges as detailed in the photos, you may want to rotate the model so the flattest area of the model is against the bed. I printed my parts with 0.200mm layers and a 0.30mm nozzle, at 15% infill. I used Prusa's unbranded PETG (https://shop.filamentpm.com/catalog/product/view/id/295/s/petg-orange-1-75-mm-1-kg/), which is why the color matches so well! Assembly instructions**: Use a soldering iron to add the brass inserts to the part. Make sure you put the smooth side in first. Add the pneumatic fittings and check if they're square to the part. If not, you may need to push the fittings in further with your soldering iron. Cut five 30mm lengths of PTFE and push them until they fit snugly into the part. As suggested by iwagner, you may need to cut these down further until they fit inside the MMU2S housing. I would also suggest testing for any friction along the filament path during this step - you may need to file out the holes in case the insert deformed the plastic. After removing the original clamp, reuse the M3 screws to attach the part to the MMU2S unit. Make sure you don't strip the plastic. Before putting all your tools away, double check for any friction with a length of filament. A small "bump" in the filament path is acceptable. **For the original instructions, check out iwagner's Thingiverse post (thingiverse.com/thing:3657251). Enjoy! -Brent
We’re proud to current the newest evolution of the Prusa i3, the preferred 3D printer within the RepRap group. Our extra superior model, Hephestos, presents vital enhancements. A package that features all of the elements you want, manuals for step-by-step meeting and an lively help service by way of our 3D discussion board to assist …
Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2(s), MK2.5 and MK3 3D printer
Hello! Here are a few pictures of my newly built Prusa i3. I configured it and buit it from the sources on the Github repository (https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3). I am amazed how everything did fit together! The only part which I had to modify is the support of the X idler which was to short
When it comes to 3d printing, Prusa i3 is one of the most popular 3D printer choice worldwide.Considering its great quality-price ratio, that fact i
Electronics of a prusa I3 - part 1
