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I have created a blog post with 10 Fabulous Granny Square Pattern Tutorials from my Youtube Channel! These are all video tutorials.
Mangrove Square VVCAL Pages 2020 VVCAL Main Page2018 VVCAL Main Page2016 VVCAL Main Page Pin Me! Introduction Each of the VVCAL 2018 Squares were dedicated to a tree by one of the members of my Cyp…
Dit bericht is voor de verandering geschreven in het Engels, omdat er vraag was naar een Engelse vertaling van het Finse granny square patroon. De Nederlandse versie van het patroon vind je hier. Wow, I'm really excited to see how many people have come to visit my weblog to see this Finnish granny square pattern! It was just a coincidence that I found a weblog from a woman in Finland that introduced this beautiful pattern. With some help from Google Translate and the pictures on her blog, I managed to translate it into Dutch. And because there have been some requests for this pattern in English, I will give it a go down here. The Finnish blog Oma Koppa, where I found this pattern, is definitely worth a visit! The owner of this blog uses beautiful pictures and even wrote every round of the pattern on a tile! Isn't that awesome? The pattern is from a crochet pattern book 'Haken voor Iedereen', written by Ellen Türkis en Sanna Dammann. I have to admit that I changed the pattern slightly to make it easier for beginners. I made the square with Drops Paris yarn and I used a 4mm hook. I used US crochet terms for my translation. Pattern Start with a chain of 7 chain stitches and slip stitch into the first chain stitch to form a circle. Round 1 Make 3 chain stitches. These chain stitches count as your first double crochet and one chain stitch. Make a double crochet, followed by a chain stitch in the circle. Repeat until you have 12 double crochets in the ring (your chain stitches included!) and end with a chain stitch. Close the round with a slip stitch in the second chain stitch you started with. Round 2 Chain 2. This is your first double crochet.Make 2 double crochets in the chain space of the previous round. *Make 1 double crochet in the double crochet of the previous round. Make 2 double crochets in the next chain space.* Repeat the instructions between ** until you have made 36 double crochets Close the round with a slip stitch into the second chain stitch you started with. Round 3 In this round we use the triple crochet 4 together. These stitches will form the petals of the flower. You work 4 triple crochet stitches together (this is 1 cluster) into 3 double crochets of the previous round. The first triple goes into the first double crochet stitch. The second and third triple go into the second double crochet stitch. The fourth triple goes into the third double crochet stitch. ATTENTION: De first cluster of triple crochets starts with 4 chain stitches, so the first cluster differs from the other clusters. The first 4 chain stitches count as the first triple crochet stitch. Cluster Wrap your yarn twice around your hook and insert hook into the double crochet of the previous round. Yarn over, pull up a loop. You have 4 loops on hook now. Yarn over, draw through 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over again and draw through 2 loops on your hook. There are 2 loops remaining on your hook right now. You do not finish this stitch, but you start a new triple crochet in the next double crochet of the previous round. Wrap your yarn twice around your hook, insert into next double crochet of the previous round. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You have 5 loops on your hook right now. Yarn over and draw through 2 loops. Yarn over again and draw through 2 loops. There are 3 loops remaining on your hook right now. You do not finish this stitch, instead you start a new triple crochet in the same double crochet of the previous round. Wrap your yarn twice around your hook, insert into the same double crochet of the previous round. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You have 6 loops on your hook right now. Yarn over and draw through 2 loops. Yarn over again and draw through 2 loops. There are 4 loops remaining on your hook right now. You do not finish this stitch, but you start a new triple crochet in the next double crochet of the previous round. Wrap your yarn twice around your hook, insert into the next double crochet of the previous round. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You have 7 loops on your hook right now. Yarn over and draw through 2 loops. Yarn over again and draw through 2 loops. There are 5 loops remaining on your hook right now. Now yarn over and draw yarn through all loops on your hook. You just made your first cluster of 4 triple crochets together. Chain 4 before you start a new cluster. Repeat the cluster and chain 4 until the end of the round. End the round with 4 chain stitches. Close this round with a slip stitch into the stitch which closes your first cluster. Round 4 In this round the flower gets its square form. Chain 5 and slip stitch into the base of the chain 5. This will form some sort of a loop that looks like your first corner of the square. *Chain 5 and slip stitch into the stitch which closes the cluster (petal) of the previous round*. Repeat the instruction between ** 3 times. In the 4th cluster (petal) you chain 5 again and slip stitch into the stitch that closes the cluster of the previous round. *Chain 5 and slip stitch into the stitch which closes the cluster (petal) of the previous round*. Repeat the instruction between ** 3 times. Work your way around like this until you formed 4 corners. Between 2 corners you made 3 bows of chain 5. Close this round with a slip stitch into the base of the first corner (into the base of your first chain 5). Round 5 Because you ended the previous round at the base of a loop, you have to get to the top of the loop by slip stitching twice in the first 2 chain stitches of the loop. Chain 5 and slip stich at the top of the loop of the previous round. You now made a loop on top of the previous loop. *Chain 5 and slip stitch into the space of the chain 5 bow of the previous round*. Repeat the instruction between ** 4 times.Continue this round until you made a loop in every corner/loop of the previous round. Between every 2 corners you made 4 bows of chain 5. Close this round with a slip stitch into the base of your first loop of chain 5. Fasten off, because the next round won't start at the corner but halfway one of the sides of the square. Round 6 Attach yarn onto one of the bows on one of the sides of the square. In every bow you crochet as follows: 2 double crochets, chain 1, 2 double crochets, chain 1. To start this round you chain 2. This counts as your first double crochet. In every corner/loop you crochet as follows: 2 double crochets, chain 3, 2 double crochets, chain 1. Continue until you reach the end of the round. End with a chain 1. Close this round with a slip stitch into the second chain of the chain 2 you started with. Your flower in a square is now done! Have fun making it!
Nothing can be more versatile than putting together a bunch of easy crochet squares and turn them into something more!
Scopri i Pattern realizzati con i filati di alta qualità di Laines du Nord
FREE pattern for my crochet spirals in squares.
crochet granny and joining motives
Learn how to crochet the join-as-you-go joining method of joining Granny Squares with this step-by-step photo tutorial.
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20 Unique Crochet Granny Squares You Will Love Granny squares are the building blocks of so many crochet patterns, from blankets and bags to garments…
Correction update 28 Jun 2022 - Tiffany D spotted that I'd missed stating "in blo" in parts of rounds 4 and 6. Thank you, Tiffany! Correcti...
Hello friends! Today I’m excited to share a tutorial with you that will make granny square blankets a little easier and faster to make. I am not a fan of sewing. I can not remember the last t…
Are you looking for a stylish and fun crochet granny square bag? Look no further than this beautiful crochet bag with sunflower squares.
A Different Granny Square uses overlay crochet technique with very soft and draping background. Perfect for blankets! Designed by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
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This How to Crochet the Granny Ripple Stitch Tutorial is sure to become one of your new favorite crochet stitches. The granny ripple stitch is a really stunning mock-lace kind of pattern that is great for creating breezy scarves or blankets. You can use as many or as few colors as you would like as you put together this printable crochet pattern. The possibilities are truly endless once you practice and master this stitch with the help of this crochet video!
Did you make the Vibrant Vintage Blanket Crochet Along Blanket? Are you making a granny square sampler blanket? Here are 4 free crochet motifs to download!
Hello, how are you today? Welcome to our blog About Crochet. We hope you are very well and looking forward to a new Free Crochet Pattern or Tutorial.
I created this Butterfly Effect Granny Square design to add to our 365 Days of Granny Squares project. It uses variety of crochet stitches to create a look of a 3D Butterfly! You can make this with two-toned wings or have the wings be one color! This square turned out to be a little larger (8 1/2 […]
Starflower Square Project Details Easy This pattern is written in US Crochet Terminology and uses standard Crochet Abbreviations. Description With the colour for the starflower make an adjustable loop; ch4 (counts as 1dc and 1ch); *1dc, ch3, 1dc, ch1 into loop; rep from * 4 times more; 1dc, ch3, attach to 3rd chain of initial
20 Unique Crochet Granny Squares You Will Love Granny squares are the building blocks of so many crochet patterns, from blankets and bags to garments…
Learn how to join little hexagons together using (JAYGO) Technique. You can make big crochet projects as you wish.
Pattern Center
Sea Square was designed especially for Granny Square Day 2019 and Chunky Monkey yarn by Scheepjes. It uses a combination of linen stitch and “brioche” crochet. With lots of texture, light weight and nice drape. It can be turned into a pillow cover or used as an afghan block. Disclosure: this blog post contains affiliate links (marked with *) Pattern Notes Sea Square is worked in rounds with alternating right and wrong sides. The rounds are joined in the corners. Only one color is used per round and yarn is not cut at the end of every round (unless otherwise stated in the pattern). What you’ll need Yarn in three colors. I used "Chunky Monkey" by Scheepjes* (Aran, 100% Premium Acrylic; 100g/116m/127yds.), yarn weight: Aran (8 wpi) Yarn A: 1218 x 1 ball (60g) Yarn B: 2005 x 1 ball (25g) Yarn C: 1302 x 1 ball (55g) Crochet hook 5mm or size needed to get an acceptable gauge. Gauge for Chunky Monkey: after 7 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. Alternative yarn – Scheepjes "Softfun"* (DK; 60% Cotton x 40% Acrylic; 50g/140m/153yrds): Yarn A: 2466 x 1 ball (20g) Yarn B: 2510 x 1 ball (10g) Yarn C: 2519 x 1 ball (15g) Crochet hook 3.5mm Gauge for Softfun: after 10 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. Alternative yarn – Scheepjes "Stone Washed"* (Sport; 78% Cotton x 22% Acrylic; 50g/130m/142yrds) Yarn A: 813 x 1 ball (25g) Yarn B: 804 x 1 ball (10g) Yarn C: 830 x 1 ball (17g) Crochet hook 4mm Gauge for Stone Washed: after 10 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. Alternative yarn – Scheepjes "Organicon"* (Fingering; 100% Cotton Organic Soft; 50g/170m/186yrds): Yarn A: 216 x 1 ball (13g) Yarn B: 200 x 1 ball (6g) Yarn C: 201 x 1 ball (11g) Crochet hook 3mm Gauge for Organicon: after 13 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. This square was made by Laura Jackson (aka @taemombo) Finished size The size of the finished square depends on the yarn and hook you use. Mine are approx. 35cm/13.5” for Chunky Monkey, 25cm/10” for Softfun and Stone Washed, 18cm/7" for Organicon. Abbreviations (US terms) and Stitch guide BPdc (back post double crochet): yo, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. ch – chain dc (double crochet): yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. FPdc (front post double crochet): yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. FPtr2tog (front post treble crochet 2 together): [yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, (yo, pull through 2 lps) twice] twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook. sc (single crochet): insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook. rep – repeat ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second lp through the first lp on hook. st(s) – stitch(es) yo – yarn over Pattern repeats: […….] x times work the instructions between brackets the total number of times stated *…….; rep from * to ….. work the instructions after * and then rep that section as instructed INSTRUCTIONS An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video-tutorials are NOT allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you! Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Round 1 (RS): With Yarn A. Make magic ring, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st – here and throughout), [ch2, 1sc into ring] x4, join with ss into first sp, turn (change to Yarn B, don’t cut Yarn A) – 4 sc, 4 ch2-sps Round 2 (WS): With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [ch1, skip next st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next sp] x3, ch1, skip next st, 1sc in same sp where first sc of the rounds was made, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change back to Yarn A by grabbing it up behind work) – 2sc and 1 ch1-sp on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 3 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to last sc before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip next st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, 1sc in last ch2-sp (where first sc of the round was made – here and throughout), join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn B), turn – 3 sc and 2 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 4 (WS): With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to one sc left before next ch2-sp in the corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change to Yarn A) – 4 sc and 3 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Rounds 5-8: Rep Rounds 3-4 twice Round 9: As Round 3, don’t turn at the end of the round – 9 sc and 8 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 10 (RS): Continue on RS with Yarn B. Ch3 (counts as ch2-sp), hdc in same sp, [*hdc in next sc, 1FPdc around st of same color from 2 rounds directly below, skip sp behind FPdc, rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner, hdc in next sc**, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, 1hdc in last ch2-sp, join with ss into first sp, don’t change yarn, don’t turn – 8 FPdc, 11 hdc on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 11 (RS): Continue on RS and with Yarn B. Ch3 (counts as ch2-sp), hdc in same sp, [1BPdc around each st to ch2-sp in next corner, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2-sp] x3, 1BPdc around each st to last ch2-sp, 1hdc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp, turn (change to Yarn C, cut Yarn B) – 19 BPdc and 2hdc on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 12 (WS): With Yarn C. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next st; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change to Yarn A) – 12 sc and 11 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 13 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in skipped st from 2 rounds below (in front of work), ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C), turn – 5 dc, 8sc and 12 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 14 (WS): With Yarn C. As Round 4 – 14 sc and 13 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 15 (RS): Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, *ch1, FPtr2tog (make first leg around st of same color from 2 rounds directly below, skip next st of same color from 2 rounds below, make second leg around next st of same color from 2 rounds below), ch1, 1sc in sp directly above same st as second leg of FPtr2tog just made; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C), turn – 6 FPtr2tog, 9 sc and 14 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Rounds 16-19: Rep Rounds 14-15 twice. After Round 19 you’ll have 8 FPtr2tog, 11 sc and 18 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 20: Rep round 4 – 20 sc and 19 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 21 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1FPdc around sc of same color from 2 rounds below, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 1FPdc around next st of same color from 2 rounds below; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C, cut Yarn A), don’t turn – 10 FPdc, 11sc, 20 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Next rounds are made on RS. Rounds 22-24 (RS): With Yarn C. As Round 3. After Round 24 you’ll have 24 sc and 23 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Fasten off. Weave in all tails. Block square to measurements. Congratulations!! Your Sea Square is now finished! Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Crochet this cute lemon granny square and add it to your granny square sampler blanket together with the other Tutti Frutti Granny Squares!
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04-16-2018 STITCHES YO - yarn over CH - chain SS - slip stitch SC - single crochet DC - double crochet HTC (half treble crochet); YO 2x, insert hook into next stitch; YO and draw up a loop (5 loo...
This Casablanca Square Free Crochet Pattern has charming flowery design. This amazing decorative square is perfect both for big and smaller projects.
Crochet granny square cardigan for women. This summer cardigan, has a gorgeous open front and is 100% handmade.This crochet cardigan is made with hight quality organic cotton yarn, anti allergic and super super soft. This amazing colorful cardigan is the perfect garment that you would want wear it forever! Perfect to wear it with dresses or with a jean! Super comfortable, stylish and versatile! WHICH IS MY SIZE? In order to know which is the perfect size for you, you just have to measure your chest. Below, you can find the measurements referred to every size: Measurements referring to the chest contour: Size S - M: waist : 80 cm / 32 in - 90 cm / 35 in. Length: 65 cm/ 25.5 in. Size M-L: waist: 90 cm / 35 in - 100 cm / 39 in. Length: 69 cm/ 27 in Size XL: waist: 127 cm/ 50 in. Length: 80 cm/ 32 in. The size in the pictures is S-M. If you can't find your size or you are not sure about the size, contact me and I will make the one that fits your measurements. HOW TO KEEP YOUR CARDIGAN PERFECT: In order to keep your cropped cardigan as a brand new one follow the next recommendation. You can wash the wool jacket by hand, dry washed and machine wash at less than 30ºC. It is advisable to dry it horizontally, so with the weight of the water the jacket would not stretch. Can not tumble dry. WHICH COLORS ARE AVAILABLE? The color of the pictures is green-beige you can find it as 'original'. If you can't find your color, you can ask me for the color you want. For any other questions, contact me I am here to answer your questions and attend to requests. All cardigans are made to order and they are all unique! If you like some of the models that you can find in my store and you want to customize it, you can always do it, contact me and I will make the top or the garment you have in mind to make it as special as you. MY ORDER IS A GIFT. If your order is to give it as a present to someone special and you have doubts about the style of the cardigan, the color or the size, contact me and I will be delighted to help you. If you want to personalize your gift by adding a special note for that person, let me know and I will include it in the gift. Lets make your gift perfect! Looking for another cardigan, jacket or cropped cardigan? take a look at the tops shown in the links below. Put the link in your browser and it will redirect you straight to another cardigans of my shop: https://www.etsy.com/SilveiraHandmade/listing/867163791/cardigan-oversize-with-wooden-buttons-v?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1624265621878 https://www.etsy.com/SilveiraHandmade/listing/869532082/cardigan-oversize-with-wooden-buttons?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1624265646865 https://www.etsy.com/SilveiraHandmade/listing/951370970/cropped-cardigan-oversize-cardigan-for?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1624265667624 https://www.etsy.com/SilveiraHandmade/listing/859671596/wool-crochet-coat-wool-coats-for-women?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1624290217200 Do not miss anything! Follow me on Instagram so you can check the latest creations, discounts, coupons and also my amazing clients sharing his pictures! Do not miss anything, I let you the ig page below: @SilveiraHandmade
Colorful mosaic squares are waiting for you to crochet them. Are you ready to explore the classic? Let's dive in!
Let me tell you the story about this Maybelle Square. A couple of months ago, or even longer, this idea of turning the Maybelle flower into a crochet square started to take form in my head. I had a few goes without luck. I am telling you, you do NOT want to see my terrible trials... I left the idea to sit for a while and one day one of my readers, a Dutch girl named Jane, sent me a picture of how she had turn the Maybelle flowers into squares in a blanket. I instantly contacted her to ask if she could give me some hints how she had made her squares. Within a day or two she replied with some instructions and she gave me the magic number - 4. I have tweaked her initial instructions, as I always tend to put my own twist on things (typical me). However, this Maybelle Square was born and I am loving it. All credits go to Jane who does not have her own blog and who wants to stay anonymous, but I truly hope you read this. It was the magical number 4 that made it all work out. Thank you dear Jane! I know many of you have waited for this pattern so here we go. Excuse my terrible hand drawn crochet symbols, but this is better than nothing for you who prefer a visual pattern. I have written the pattern in UK/US terms. I have used Tilda yarn on a 3mm / C-D (US) hook. A Svensk version finns här. Row 1 Find the pattern for the Maybelle Crochet Flower here, picture tutorial here, and when you have your Maybelle Flower you are ready to get started with the square. Join a new yarn at the top of a petal and chain 5 (counts as 1dc/1sc + ch4), *make a 1htr/1hdc in the valley between two petals, chain 4, 1dc/1sc in top stitch on next petal, chain 4*, repeat * * until end of row. Join with slip stitch in first chain made on first petal. Row 2 This row is worked into the chain spaces: Slip stitch into first chain space, make ch2 (counts as first htr/hdc) - 3htr/3hdc (a total of 4htr/hdc in same chain space), ch1, 4htr/4hdc in next chain space, ch1. Now we work the corner: *In next chain space make 1htr/1hdc - 2tr/2dc - 2dtr/2tr, ch2, in following chain space make 2dtr/2tr - 2tr/2dc - 1htr/1hdc, ch1. In next chain space make 4htr/4hdc, ch1, 4htr/4hdc in next chain space, ch1*, repeat * * 2 times. Make one more last corner: In next chain space make 1htr/1hdc - 2tr/2dc - 2dtr/2tr, ch2, in following chain space make 2dtr/2tr - 2tr/2dc - 1htr/1hdc, ch1. Join row with slip stitch in top chain of first 2 chains made. Row 3 Ch2 (counts as first htr/hdc), 1htr/1hdc in next 2 stitches, skip 1stitch, 1tr/1dc in space between clusters, *skip 1 stitch, htr/1hdc in next 3 stitches, 1tr/1dc in space between clusters, 1htr/1hdc in next 4 stitches, skip 1 stitch , make 2tr/2dc - 1ch - 2tr/2dc in same corner space, skip 1 stitch, 1htr/1hdc in next 4 stitches, 1tr/1dc in space between clusters, 1htr/1hdc in next 3 stitches, skip 1 stitch, 1tr/1dc in space between cluster*], repeat * * 2 times. Finish your row with: Skip 1 stitch, 1htr/1hdc in next 3 stitches, 1tr/1dc in space between clusters, 1htr/1hdc in next 4 stitches, skip 1stitch, make 2tr/2dc - ch - 2tr/2dc in same corner space, skip 1 stitch, 1htr/1hdc in next 4 stitches, 1tr/1dc in space between clusters. Join with a slip stitch in top chain of first 2 chains made. Cut yarn and fasten of gently. VOILA! And now we will never ever stop making the Maybelle Crochet Flower or the Maybelle Square. Enjoy the hooky ride! Below you can find other Maybelle Flower Tutorials. Kärlek Annette FOLLOW My Rose Valley HERE:
Crochet artist sharing to encourage and inspire