The food we eat connects us so deeply to those we love and, perhaps, especially so when they are no longer with us. And this recipe is really in honour of my maternal grandmother, and not just because her name was Rosemary. And yes, rosemary is, as Ophelia tells Hamlet, “for remembrance”, and has been since Egyptian times. Indeed, many Australians and New Zealanders wear a sprig of it to honour their fallen on Anzac Day. This is the cake I make when a friend is bereaved — and I know that many of you, ever since the recipe appeared in Feast, do likewise. It’s plain, undemanding, and offers sweet, scented comfort when grief makes eating difficult. And in its own simple way, it’s a beautiful cake, the rosemary sprig curving out over the top, down the length of the biscuity gold, dense loaf. And please read the Additional Information section at the end of the recipe before proceeding. For US cup measures, use the toggle at the top of the ingredients list.
