Having an experience with an Eager Hunter is one of the highlights of Western Mongolia. Can you imagine humans working cooperatively with eagles to hunt? It sounded so Pocahontas-y and extraordinary. I could hardly believe we were going to visit a Mongolian Eagle Hunter in May 2019. Of course Eagle Hunting looks really cool, but we had so many questions. What is Eagle Hunting about? Who are these Eagle Hunters? What is life like for them? About Eagle Hunting One of the first things we learnt was that Eagle Hunting is a key part of Kazakh culture. Hence, it is practiced by mostly Mongolian Kazakhs and passed down through the generations. The Golden Eagle Festival is held every October where Eagle Hunters compete in various events and skill-sets. For example, they see who can get their eagle to fly to them in the shortest time. In this culture, they are very proud of Eagle Hunting because they think of eagles as the king of all birds. They typically release the eagles back into the wild after several years. We were told that eagles soar towards the sun to die, which is a beautiful story about its dignity. I believe it is because eagles fly far away to choose a spot on a cliff that faces the sun when they are dying. Our Eagle Hunter: Haizem (2012 Champion) After driving across central Mongolia for almost a week, we arrived in Western Mongolia (Bayan-Olgii) from Ulaanbaatar. Our guide Deggie planned for us to spend 2 days with 62-year-old Eagle Hunter Haizem in Sagsai village. That was also an amazing journey that deserves a separate post (read it here). When we arrived at his home at almost 9pm, we were greeted by his family and interestingly, the smell of milk. We were invited into what looked like their bedroom, dining room and kitchen combined. From the beginning, we felt so star struck hearing about his experience. We could see his fur coat and various other animal pelt hanging from the walls, including coyotes and small foxes. However, what struck me was his openness towards us looking around at the displays and his old pictures. He encouraged us to not be shy and ask as many questions as we wanted. We knew it was going to be epic for the next 2 days. Staying in Sagsai village After our welcome tea and snacks, they invited us to stay for dinner. It was 10pm and we were were still full and exhausted from the drive. Nevertheless, we wanted to be polite and took cues from how they eat from a shared plate with just a spoon in hand. Finally, it was time to rest. We went to a separate stone-walled house belonging to Haizem’s son and his wife. I loved staying there because it was on the fringes of the village. It felt private despite us having to pee outside the house in the open. We explored the nearby river in the morning alongside the children who were busy herding animals. It was so refreshing to experience it for those days. Day 1: Warming Up To Our Animals We made lunch for ourselves while waiting for Haizem and his son to bring their horses down from the mountain. That sounds crazy and so hard to grasp as a Singaporean city girl. I would love to live with horses and fetch them from mountains. It sounds like the kind of thing you read in books and see in movies. It was already so cool to me and I could not contain my excitement when Haizem suddenly appeared in our living room window. Haizem was wearing his Eagle Hunter outfit, riding on a beautiful white horse and had his eagle perched on his right arm. Can you see how epic it looks? We all ran out to meet him in no time, and he led us to our designated horses. What? Our very own horse for 2 days? I was giggly with excitement, and I called my horse Amber. Eagle Hunting on horses That day, we rode along the river and away from the village. We were accompanied by Deggie and Haizem’s son as we followed Haizem’s lead. They really took care of us and taught us how to control our horses’ direction and speed. I tried singing to my horse while saying “chu!” to urge it to go faster. Fly Amber, fly! It didn’t go faster than a trot that day. I highly recommend wearing a windproof jacket. The locals wear animal skin, or this long outerwear called a “deel” which helps to keep them warm outdoors. We rode for nearly an hour before we got to a nice spot just around the river bend. As we stood around with our cameras ready, Haizem demonstrated how he could call his eagle to him. He was holding a peace of meat and calling out to it with 3 distinct sounds. We also learnt that each Eagle Hunter uses unique sounds to communicate with their eagles. We took many pictures of Haizem posing with his eagle. I could see their bond as he gently stroked the eagle and let it lean against his face. The scenery around us was also such a win, and I could not imagine how our day could get any better. Hanging out with Haizem After our simple Kimchi cup ramen dinner, we explored more of the nearby herding grounds while waiting for Haizem. He was coming to hangout with us and perform traditional Kazakh music on his Dombra. As he warmed up even more, he played more songs and sang for us. He also kept emphasising earnestly that he wanted to show us his unique culture in the best way possible, and asked us what we wanted for the next day. We felt very thankful for the hospitality, so we sang songs and shared pictures about Singapore in return. It was such a great time and we took pictures together to remember the night we bonded with Haizem despite the language barrier. Day 2: Into The Yellow Mountains Our day started in the morning and we set off towards the “Yellow Mountains”. It was vague to me, because most of the mountains looked yellow. Nevertheless, it did not matter as we were going to follow Haizem on our horses. Amber felt a little more excited today because it went fast into the fast walking pace whenever I said “chu”. It was a windy day, but Haizem was determined to show us his Eagle Hunting skills on the mountain. This time, we rode 1.5 hours in a different direction. When we got to the mountain, Haizem demonstrated more of his eagle calling but from greater distances. This time, he called the eagle down from a higher point on the mountain towards him. He tried several different spots to give us different perspectives and photo opportunities. Unfortunately, Haizem did not spot any rabbits or little foxes for the eagle to catch. We were not too disappointed as this is usually done during winter, and it was spring then. He also demonstrated how they will gallop with the horse with the eagle when they go hunting. It looked absolutely majestic! I daydreamed about being the first Singaporean Eagle Hunter. Improving our horse riding We also tried cantering on the way back. I was initially worried that my camera would fly off as I had slung my camera across my body. After handing my camera away, Deggie led again with his horse. Thankfully, he has had experience with horses since he was young, so we were in good hands throughout. It had been almost 4 hours by then, and sadly we had to say goodbye to our horses. Farewell Amber, it was nice knowing you for 2 days and I will never forget our unbreakable bond. Mongolian Master Chef This time, our guide showed us how to cook Mongolian mutton noodles. He started to hack at a huge piece of meat that was fresh out of the freezer. I was amused, but also getting used to the way things were done in Mongolia. Things didn’t have to be super perfect there, and I loved it. 1900KM Away, But Worth The Trip I love that the experience felt really genuine and authentic. Haizem had been calling to ask how we were since the start of our trip, and often sent his well wishes. When we finally met, we felt his warmth and enthusiasm for the days to come. He smiled along with our excitement, and was patient when we needed time to get used to our horses. Towards the end he asked to see our photos and videos, and even revealed his desire to be remembered by future generations through them. Above all, we were reminded that success is not purely defined by money. We could sense the ambition and passion in the practice of Eagle Hunting. The ability to take pride in something you do is also what gives life meaning. We wrote some notes to Haizem and gave him Singapore keychains as we said goodbye in the evening. It felt bittersweet, and I was very happy we chose to include this experience in our Mongolia itinerary. Mongolia is truly a bucket list type of destination, and I highly recommend a homestay with Haizem if you plan to visit sometime. If you need more information or advice, you can contact our guide Deggie via WhatsApp at +976 8833 9220, or via Instagram at @deggiefixer. Share this… Facebook Pinterest Twitter Linkedin
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