Árboles ornamentales: Arce de papel (Acer griseum) - El arce de papel (Acer griseum) o arce chino gris es una planta con flores originaria de la región central de China, cuyo uso como árbol ornamental se ha Arboles Flor de Planta

Styrax Japanese Snowbell エゴノキ 斎敦果 ego-no-ki We have two of them in the Garden, and this post is about the one in Area F (the other grows in Q, along the W path; + one styrax obassia, also native t…

Pink Chilean bell flower, grown in my balcony.

Hamamelis x intermedia 'Jelena' Witchhazel Type Shrub, woody plant Hardy range 6A to 8A Height 15' to 20' / 4.60m to 6.00m Spread 15' to 20' / 4.60m to 6.00m Growth rate Average Form Spreading or horizontal Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun Persistence Deciduous Bloom Color Orange Bloom Time Spring and Winter The flowers are fragrant and showy. Environment This plant tolerates some drought. This plant will grow in dry soil. Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay. The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil. Leaf Color Green Fall Color Orange and red This plant has attractive fall colors. Culture Notes Jelena should be grown in full sun or partial shade on well-drained, moist, acid soils. Nice specimens can be found in clay soils, even those which dry out for a period of time in the summer. Pruning should be completed after flowering and by late spring to ensure next year's flower buds are not removed. Pollen can cause slight to mild allergy symptoms. Maintain adequate mulch areaClear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.Tree establishment specificationsChoose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare. Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought. Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later. Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated. In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees. In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall. Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment. Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts. Thank You

Fiery autumn colour

We manufacture any kind of curved garden bench, made to measure and specific to your requirements.

Sango Kaku Coral Bark Japanese Maple Acer palmatum 'Sango Kaku' Plant Details USDA Plant Hardiness Zones: 5a-9a  Find Your Zone Height at Maturity:  20-25' Width at Maturity:  15-20' Growth Habit / Form:  Upright, Vase Shape  Growth Rate:  Moderate, Fast  Foliage Color in Spring:  Lime Green Foliage Color in Summer:  Medium Green Foliage Color in Fall:  Golden Yellow, Orange, Red, Pink Light Needs:  Full Sun or Mostly Sun, Morning Sun with Dappled or Afternoon Shade, All Day Filtered Sun, Morning Shade with Evening Sun Water Needs:  Average, moderately drought tolerant when established Soil Type:  Sandy, Loam & Clay (Condition heavy clay soils when planting) Drainage:  Well drained soil is a must! Soil pH:  5.0 - 7.0 is ideal Maintenance:  Low Resistances:  Deer - more info, Heat Tolerant, Insect, Disease, Sun Tolerant Description A year round color factory in the landscape, the 'Sango Kaku' Japanese Maple, commonly called Coral Bark Maple, lives up to its name. In Japanese, 'Sango Kaku' means "Coral Tower"...and refers to the almost fluorescent coral-red color its branches and stems turn during the fall and winter persisting into spring. In early spring new leaves emerge an intense lime-green color that is a stunning contrast to the red branches - truly a sight to behold! The leaves turn light to medium green by summer and then to bright golden-yellow in fall fading to shades of orange, red and pink before falling. Though growing 20 to 25 feet tall and 15 to 20 feet wide at maturity, Sango Kaku's upright vase shape makes it a good fit in smaller garden spaces. An excellent accent or focal point specimen tree in home foundation plantings landscape borders.  Landscape & Garden Uses To showcase its magnificence and beauty, the Sango Kaku Coral Bark Japanese Maple is best used as a focal point specimen to draw attention to a specific area of the home or landscape. That being said, you can plant them in groupings of three or plant one on both sides of an entryway to accentuate the entrance. Suggest Spacing: At least 20 feet apart for space between trees Container culture can extend the useful range of Japanese Maples. They are extremely easy to grow in containers, a practice taken to its most extreme form in the art of bonsai.  Note:  One Japanese Maple can make a landscape...that is if you don't overcrowd it with other trees and plants. Therefore, when selecting companions to plant under or around your Japanese Maple, make sure to select low-growing shrubs or groundcover plants that won't interfere with or overcrowd your tree.  Note:  For our customers who live and garden north of USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 5a, where this Japanese Maple variety is not reliably winter hardy, you'll be happy to know it can be grown in containers that can be brought indoors during winter and placed back outside when temperatures warm up in spring. Growing Preferences Though delicate looking, Japanese Maples are actually very tough and long-lived trees. They are very easy to grow. Container culture can extend their useful range. They are extremely easy to grow in containers, a practice taken to its most extreme form in the art of bonsai. In their natural habitat, Japanese Maples are understory trees, growing in dappled forest sunlight at the edges of woodlands. Ideally they prefer to be grown in similar conditions. That said, you can find a complete listing of our sun-tolerant Japanese Maple varieties here, of which the Sango Kaku Coral Bark is one of the most sun tolerant.  Most any average garden soil will grow Japanese Maples. They prefer a moist but well-drained soil rich in organic matter. As with so many other ornamental plants and trees, constantly soggy or wet soil can be problematic. So make sure to plant your Japanese Maple in a well-drained site. Helpful Articles Click on a link below to find helpful advice from our experts on how to plant and care for Japanese Maple trees. How To Plant A Japanese Maple Tree In The Ground How to Plant A Japanese Maple Tree In A Pot How To Fertilize And Water A Japanese Maple Tree How To Prune A Japanese Maple Plant Long & Prosper! Meet The Wilson Brothers & Staff Questions?  Contact Us!

Op een perceel waar voordien enkel een garage stond, werd een nieuwe woning gebouwd. De zeer specifieke vormgeving van de woning wordt mede bepaald door de zeer specifieke eigenschappen van het perceel. Het perceel ligt immers schuin t.o.v. de straat en bovendien ligt de tuin aan de achtergevel een halve verdieping lager dan de straat […]

Son muchos los materiales que podemos usar para crear un camino de jardín pero la…