Being a knitting/crochet designer is kind of a weird job. Being successful means being part designer, part webmaster, part marketer and part photographer. And you can't go to school for it. (okay, you can go to school to learn to design, but not do all the other stuff!) I learned it through the grapevine... Most

7 Crochet Pattern Writing Tips for the aspiring crochet pattern designer, and maybe a helpful tidbit or two for even the experienced ones.

This yarn over (yo) short row technique is only used in a few Cocoknits patterns, like Veronika. The Cocoknits preferred short row technique is the Shadow Wrap Short Row (SWSR). This is used in Cocoknits Method sweaters and other patterns.

If you are new to writing knitting patterns for your hand knitted creations, these 6 tips will help set you on the right path.

If you’ve ever wondered, “how can I become a fashion designer?”, today’s post will shed light how fashion designers create compelling works of art and what you can do TODAY to get started designing your own meaningful designs. In today’s post I share: How you can start expressing your authentic v

Who else wants fitting stitch patterns for all shawl shapes? I know we all do. Learn how to in my newest book, Shaping Lace.

A steel hook and lace allow you to crochet this beautiful accent coaster. The purple color is sure to make heads turn and realize how great of a pattern this is. The flower in the middle is a great addition.

Designing knitting patterns can be very daunting for people who have never done it before. Where do you even start? Figuring out where to start can be so challenging that it can often result in us doing nothing at all. In this blog post, I break down some of the common obstacles that prevent aspir

Sew types of women dress styles using this tutorial. You can use a commercial dress pattern to make different dresses. Depending on which dress style you want to stitch, the method of sewing any dress is the same...

Are you an aspiring knitting pattern designer looking to unleash your creativity? Look no further than the enchanting world of shawls! Shawls have long been a beloved accessory in the knitting community, and they offer a perfect starting point for budding designers. In this blog post, we'll delve into why shawls are th

Triangular shawls are a great way to place to start with designs involving increasing and decreasing. It’s easy to see if your design is coming out how you like from the beginning. And you can mo…

Our favorite jean meets our favorite decade. Made from premium non-stretch Japanese denim for a vintage-inspired look, the ’90s Cheeky® Jean has an easy straight leg, an extra-high rise, and a butt-boosting rear fit. Need a smaller waist? This style's also available in curvy.

I've been planning a cactus collection for a few months now - I know I'm not exactly the first person to come up with the idea to make a crocheted cactus, but my idea was to make my designs more realistic than the cartoonish cacti I've seen before. I always like to base my pattern ...

Are you an aspiring knitting pattern designer looking to unleash your creativity? Look no further than the enchanting world of shawls! Shawls have long been a beloved accessory in the knitting community, and they offer a perfect starting point for budding designers. In this blog post, we'll delve into why shawls are th

I'm starting what I guess we can consider my second blog series, the first being my Fashion Drawing tutorials (that I still need to finish up, I keep putting off editing and filming the other videos...) Back on track here, If I'm going to show you how to create some of the dresses, skirts and rompers that I find on mod cloth, and probably a few other websites, the we'll need to start off with the very basics. The next post will be the drafting of your personalized bodice block, I'll probably split them up into separate posts for the from, back, sleeve and skirt. The shorts will be a completely different post, but that will come when I find a romper that I have my heart set on. The most important thing that you will need for drafting patterns and using commercial patterns is your measurements. if you're using a commercial pattern, then there are usually only 3 basic measurements that you use when picking out the pattern, your Bust, Waist and Hip measurements. Those are the numbers that correspond to the basic sizing on the back of commercial pattern sleeves. For the purpose of this post, I'm going to be giving you a list of 33 measurements that you will need in order to draft your own patterns. I would recommend you get a friend to help you measure yourself, because I can tell you from experience that doing al these measurements by yourself is extremely difficult and frustrating, especially when you get to measuring things on your back. I purchased the book Little Green Dresses (Amazon links - Canada - USA) from Chapters about 2 months ago, it cost me about $27 in the store, you can get them cheaper online. I bought the book mostly for the 2nd chapter on pattern drafting, and being able to create my own pattern blocks. This should help to explain where each measurement is taken. What You Need: A flexible measuring tape (60" is the standard, you can get ones that are 120" as well) A Pencil and Paper A friend A chair or other surface you can sit on Optional: A piece of string or narrow elastic to tie around your waist Quick Measurements: 1. Full Bust: measure around the fullest part of the bust and back, making sure the tape is parallel to the ground all the way around. 2. Full High Bust: Measure around the body just above the full bust. 3. Full Waist: Measure around th waist at it's smallest point. Find this spot and keep it as a reference of other measurements by tying a piece of string or narrow elastic around your waist and letting it settle. 4. Full Hip: Measure around the fullest part of your hipline, typically about 7-10 inches below the waist 5. Full Front Length: Measure from the high shoulder at the neck to the waist. 6. Full Back Length: Measure from the high shoulder at the net to the waist 7. Center front Length: Measure from the front neck base to the waist. 8. Center Back Length: Measure front eh back neck bending point to the waist. 9. Center front Width: Measure from the front of the neck base to the shoulder tip. 10. Center back width: Measure from the back neck bone to the shoulder tip. In-Depth Measurements 11. Front Bust: Measure from side seam to side seam across the fullest part of the bust. 12. Wide Back: Measure from side seam to side seam across the fullest part of the back. 13. Across Chest: Measure from mid armhole to mid armhole across front. 14. Across Upper Back: Measure from mid armhole to mid armhole across back 15. Front Waist Width: Measure from side seam to side seam across front waist. 16. Back Waist Width: Measure from side seam to side seam across back waist. 17. Front Hip: Measure form side seam to side seam across front hip. 18. Back Hip: Measure form side seam to side seam across back hip. 19. Bust Level: Measure from shoulder tip to bust point. 20. Bust Bridge: Measure from bust point to bust point. 21. Halter: Measure from the high shoulder at the neck to the underarm at the side seam (also called the strap measurement) 22. Shoulder Length: Measure from the high shoulder at the neck to shoulder tip. 23. Neck: Measure around the widest part of the neck. 24. Arm Length: Measure from measure from the tip of the shoulder to the wrist with arm bent. 25. Arm Span: Measure from wrist to wrist with arms outstretched and the measuring tape behind your head. 26. Bicep: Measure around the fullest part of your upper arm. 27. Wrist: Measure around the wrist. 28. Side: Measure from the underarm to the waist along the garment side seam. 29. Side Hip Length: Measure from the waist to the hip level along side seam 30: Crotch Depth: Sit on a chair and measure from the waist to the top of the chair seat along the side hip. 31. Inseam: Measure along the inside of the leg from the crotch down to just below the ankle. 32. Out-seam: Measure from the waist to just below the ankle along the side seam. 33. Ankle: Measure around the ankle. Dart Measurements Your Dart Start involves a little math. if your full waist is 24 inches then you don't have to worry, it's just 3 inches. For any larger than that, you must add 1/8 inch to that original 3 inches for every inch larger than 24 inches. Back Dart: 2 inches * Front Dart: 1 inch * * if the difference between your FULL WAIST measurement and your FULL HIP measurement 10 inches, then your dart measurements are as listed above. For every inch less than 10 inches, subtract roughly 1/8 inch from the dart measurement above. For each inch over 10 inches, add roughly 1/8 inch* Check back for the next post: Drafting The Bodice Front

If you’re the kind of knitter who hates math — and I think that covers a lot of us! — you need to know about the Stitch Pattern Calculator from Laylock Knitwear Design. This is a …

At first glance, problem-solving and fashion design may seem completely unrelated. But after reading today’s post, you’ll see how every “problem” in fashion design is a unique opportunity to create garments that are as functional as they are beautiful. In today’s post I cover: How I used problem

I've structured this series, so each week builds on previous weeks' lessons. Each week I go over some basic terms, and give a tutorial for a project that you should be able to complete in under an hour. I'd love to see your finished projects, just leave me a comment after the tutorial, so I know where to find you. Basic Supplies and Terms/ Easy Envelope Pillows Grain/Selvage, Nap/ Easy Bubble Skirt French Seams? How To make your seams look professional How to sew curves Pintucks (this one takes longer than an hour, depending on the amount of pin-tucks) Pleated Ruffles All about Applique Rufflles All About Button Holes Tips: sewing w/ patterns (It's not scary) Adding cuffed sleeves Tips for making hand-made garments look professional I hope that you you use all my tutorials and they help you develop the same love of sewing that I have. Feel free to use them for private use-or send me a chunk of the profits. (warning: snotty comment ahead) Please also just don't re-do my tutorials on your blog and say you got them here. Simply show your finished product and then link back.

I've put together this ultimate list of corner to corner crochet tips, tricks and tutorials for beginners. 20 articles to help you master c2c, color changes, bobbins, and more.

Whether you are new to amigurumi or you've made you're fair share, this post is intended to provide helpful tips to learning the joyous techniques of the trade! We will cover common language used in amigurumi patterns along with photos to help you learn the basics. My goal here was to make this a resource that you can come to anytime you're met with something that seems unfamiliar in amigurumi. So, it's kind of lengthy, feel free to PIN this to your favorite board so you can refer back to it anytime! I absolutely love questions! If I don't know the answer I enjoy researching it so I can learn it too! Joining the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook is a great way to reach out with your questions (or to share what you've made and your favorite go-to patterns!). Amigurumi is usually worked in the round, meaning you won't join each round unless otherwise noted. You will want to use stitch markers to mark either the first or last round as you go so you don't lose your place. They can be purchased or you can use a scrap piece of yarn, bobby pin or safety pin! When you are stuffing be sure to stuff it firmly (you are working to find the point just before the stitches start to stretch). Over time your stuffing will settle and 'squish' down, stuffing firmly to begin with help it to stay firm! Check out this tutorial for additional stuffing tips! If you are new to amigurumi and have any questions about what materials to use, read this post here to see my favorites! This post may contain affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn! Below are some of the common abbreviations and terms you are likely to come across in amigurumi patterns. US Crochet Abbreviations MC - Magic Circle SC - Single Crochet SC INC - Single Crochet Increase (complete 2 single crochets into one stitch) HDC - Half Double Crochet HDC INC - Half Double Crochet Increase (complete 2 half double crochets into one stitch) DC - Double Crochet DC INC - Double Crochet Increase (complete 2 double crochets into one stitch) INV DEC - Invisible Decrease Rep - Repeat Sl St - Slip Stitch Ch - Chain Blo - Back loop only Flo - Front loop only YO - Yarn Over Joining Legs in Amigurumi To create an amigurumi in a standing position a lot of patterns will join the legs together with a chain. This creates a bridge to connect the legs together and allows you to then continue crocheting to form the body. Here's a step by step video tutorial in both left and right handed versions! Right Handed Left Handed Magic Circle A magic circle (also called an adjustable loop) is the most common way to start amigurumi. 1. Leaving about a 4 inch tail wrap the yarn into a circle as in the photos below. 2. Hold the loop by placing your fingers over the part where the working yarn crosses over the tail. 3. Insert your hook into the circle, yarn over, pull through and chain 1 4. You're magic circle is now ready to start as your pattern instructs (ex: if round one says 6 SC you will complete 6 SC around the loop) 5. Pull your tail tight to close Invisible Decrease This is the preferred way to decrease in amigurumi, it keeps the decrease tight and avoids the 'bump' of a regular SC decrease. An invisible decrease happens over two stitches, insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch and then into the front loop of the second stitch (you will have 3 loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (you will have 2 loops left on your hook), yarn over again and pull through all loops on the hook. You've just made an invisible decrease! Invisible Color Join When changing colors it can have a jagged look because we are working in rounds. This method helps the colors change smoothly. When you are completing the last stitch before you are instructed to change colors you will complete the first half of the stitch with your old color and finish the stitch with your new color. Meaning, you will insert your hook into your stitch, yarn over with the old color and pull through, now drop your old color and use your new color to yarn over and finish the stitch by pulling through all loops on your hook. You now have your new color on your hook. I like to tie off my old color here if I'm not carrying it to change again, (like in Mia and Marshall the Frog). As you start your next round, complete the first stitch as a slip stitch instead of a sc. When you come back around to start your next round be sure to sc into your slip stitch as a regular stitch. Above I mentioned how you can carry colors when changing often. I used this in my frog patterns to create their striped outfits. Because, I was changing back and forth quite often that would create a LOT of loose ends. Instead, I would drop the yarn, change to the new one and when it was time to change again I would drop and go back to the color I had. I continued this all the way up and then tied off when I was completely done. This saves time, which is quite nice! Here's an example of the inside of Marshall the Frog, you can see where I carried the yarn and only had to tie off at the end! Front and Back Loop Only This is usually used in the feet or bodies of amigurumi. In a foot it helps it to have a flat bottom to work up (like in this cow pattern). I also like to use it to attach to later and make a skirt or ruffle along a dress (see Holly the Honey Bear for an example. The pattern uses back loop only on one row of the body, we later attach to it and make the ruffled part of her dress!) When crocheting, the front loops are closest to you and the back loops are away from you (on the inside of the round) Tension This section is short and sweet. You want a tight tension so that your stitches are close together, if they are loose they will have gaps that your stuffing will show through. I like to have my hook help control my tension, we don't want your hands to hurt from trying to crochet really tightly. I recommend starting with a 3.5mm (or one close in size if you don't have this on hand). If you feel your stitches are too loose go down a size (maybe try a 3mm or 2.75mm). If your stitches are too tight (meaning you are having trouble getting your hook into the stitch) try a 4mm hook. Once you find your favorite hook size to use you will find yourself reaching for it every time! These recommendations are based on using #4 worsted weight yarn. You can also use chunky yarn or cotton yarn, but because they have a different thickness you will want to adjust. Example, I use 4-4.5mm for chunky yarn and 3mm for cotton! Sewing Parts Together I like to use the whip stitch to sew on my limbs and heads. A lot of you have shared that you enjoy it too! Most patterns will have this noted, but it is good to leave a long tail when fastening off (we're talking probably 12 inches long) to use later for sewing that part on. As I mentioned in my materials for amigurumi post, the bent tip needles really work wonders to get into the stitches! Using pins to hold each part in place can help you line them up where you want them, this is completely optional. Example with the picture above we're sewing on the arm, you would insert your hook into a stitch on the body and then into a stitch across the top of the arm, pull through. Complete this across the arm to secure. I sometimes will go back across to add extra strength. Secure with a knot and then push your needle through the body and bring the yarn out the other side, cut the string and it's done! Crochet Eyes and Plastic Safety Eyes Most amigurumi are made with plastic safety eyes (some with plastic safety noses)! These are super easy to install. They come as two parts, the eye and the washer. Insert your eyes into the desired stitches (move them around if needed to get the look you are going for, once the washers are on there's no getting them back off to move them!). If you are embroidering eyelashes be sure to do so before attaching your eyes, it will be much easier to have them lined up! Your washer will have a curve to it, you will want the curve to cup your eye to be installed properly. Push the washer tightly to bring together (you will hear some clicks). Plastic safety eyes are recommended for children over 3, if you would like an alternative I have a tutorial for crochet eyes here! I hope this has been a helpful tutorial! If you're looking for a pattern to get started check out the Cuddly Caterpillar, she's great for beginners! What is your favorite tip for making amigurumi? Have I missed something you would like added? Leave a comment below!

Find out how to move a dart to a position that's suitable for your curves in this video tutorial. This method can also be used to move a bust dart.

Want to make this quilt? I have finally gotten around to writing a tutorial for it. These are notes to the specific quilt I made. Adding or deleting jelly roll strips will alter the size of your quilt. You can use my quilt as a guide to create yours. You may use the pattern for personal use (i.e. to make a quilt for yourself or as a gift) but please do not use this pattern to make quilts to sell. One jelly roll makes 27.5 inches of the bargello. I used 2 jelly rolls, to make the width 54 inches, finished. If you want to make a wider quilt, use more jelly rolls, or add borders. My quilt finished as a twin; 54 x 88 inches The size of this quilt will depend on how many jelly strips you use. I only used 36 of 40, so before borders my quilt was 72 inches long. If you use all 40 strips of a typical jelly roll, your quilt will be 80 inches long. If you use all the strips you may not need to add borders, if you use less, you may need to add more fabric. Your length will be # of jelly strips X 2. Add borders to meet the size you want. Fabric requirements 2 Jelly rolls - don't trim off selvages Fabric for borders - 1 yard - cut 3 strips 8.5 inches wide. Make 2 pieces that are 8.5 x 54.5 inches long. I also cut 4 strips, 2.5 inches wide to be used for binding. Yardage for backing - 6 yards (this is generous - I just pieced big scrap pieces together until it was big enough) Batting - 58 x 92 inches Binding - I used the 4 leftover jelly roll strips, along with strips cut from the border fabric. Step 1: Picking your fabric order. This might be the hardest part for some. Most jelly rolls are already sorted from lightest to darkest, it really is finding what you like best. For me, I picked 5 or 6 strips of 2 different colours that I thought looked good together, then added 1 or 2 strips to go in between them for contrast. In this set, there are 2 blue strips between the green and purple strips. This set has 13 strips. In this set, 1 green strip is between the pink and blue strips. There are 11 strips in this set. Step 2: Piecing the strip sets Instead of piecing all 36 strips together and then try to cut them for the bargello strips, I made 3 different sets that were then cut and joined together to make the bargello strips. This just makes it easier to handle. For each set, I first sewed them in pairs - selvages at the same end. Then sew the pairs together, starting at the lengthwise grain edge. Starting from opposite edges will help prevent the fabric from being stretched during the piecing process. When you're done, you will have a set with all the selvages at one end. Lay your sets down. This is your last chance to change the order (without creating major frustration for yourself). If you are happy with your sets, it's time to iron and cut them. Press the seams how you like - open might be the best way. I pressed each set a little differently and open seams went together better. Step 3 - Cutting the Bargello Strips Now is the time to trim off your selvages to give yourself a straight edge. From each set cut: 4 strips - 2.5 inches wide 10 strips - 2 inches wide 6 strips - 1.5 inches long You will have about 3 inches leftover in case you cut one wrong and need to cut another. Put your strips into groups based on size and set (2.5 at the top, 2 in the middle and 1.5 at the bottom) Doing one size at a time, you are going to sew the strips in their correct order to make one long strip. Then sew the 2 ends together to make a ring. Above are the 1.5 strips lined up waiting to be sewn together. I chained pieced my strips, causing the middle strip to make a loop between the 1st and 3rd strips. This is what you should have after piecing. Keep all loops of the same width together. Step 4: Piecing the Bargello strips This is where you really need to pay attention, or you will be using your seam ripper. Trust me. To make it easy, I made the first strip start with the first fabric. I number the top fabric as #1 and the bottom fabric as #36. Click to enlarge. Using the chart above as a guide, sew the strips together, ripping the seam of each loop between the top and the bottom fabrics. The top number tells you which fabric will be at the top of your strip, while the bottom number, tells you which fabric is at the bottom. The middle number tells you the width of the strip to use. Here is the first 2 strips sewn together with the next 4 waiting to be pieced. Take your time to make sure the pattern is going the right way. First bargello section all sewn together (just realized this picture was taken upside down - oops). The pattern is set up so you can add as many sections as you want and the bargello pattern will continue. Here are both sets done and sewn together - and the picture taken from the right way. Add borders if you want. Quilt as desired. Bind and enjoy. Finished quilt. Pieced binding. Enjoy my first tutorial. Thanks to all the other bloggers who have offered free patterns and tutorials. I really appreciate them. Please let me know of any errors. I hope to make a printer friendly, pdf version in the future and would appreciate any comments on anything that is hard to understand.

As I was busy at work yesterday and the sun was shining over London, I had a lovely visitor by the name of Tommy. Was such a treat to have her photograph my little world that I usually keep so private. Hope you like the photos she has so lovingly taken. Photography by Tommy from This is Naive People at work # 2

Join our Math World now to meet up with other math students and mathematicians on the Web. Learn how to perform basic math functions, and share your own tips and tricks for solving problems and calculating answers for everything math related, from algebra to geometry to trigonometry to advanced calculus. - Ask questions in the [/forum/ Forum]. - Share some [/inspiration/ Inspiration]. - Post a [/how-to/ How-To] article. Looking for another interesting topic? Check out all of the other [http://www.wonderhowto.com/worlds/ Worlds] on WonderHowTo! [http://flic.kr/p/5w4B85 header credit]

Yes! I’m so excited to have you as part of the Crochetpreneur® family. AND, I’ve got a surprise for you. For the next 15 minutes only… Get 50% off theConcept-to-Launch Crochet Pattern Writing Course Have you been hesitant to get your designs on paper…and then published? Fearful that your first pattern won’t be perfect? Stuck...

Learn about the 6 most common crochet sweater designs; drop shoulder, modified drop, set in sleeve, dolman, top-down raglan and circular yokes

Unless you are a rebel when it comes to sewing, most likely you have used some sort of material to trace your sewing patterns. If you are like me, you want to find one that works well and is economical to boot. So which pattern tracing paper works best? Continue reading for a list of pros and cons of the top 3 tracing paper types most sewers use. From Left to Right: Freezer Paper, Swedish Tracing Paper, Medical Exam Table Paper Let's weigh out the pros and cons. Here is a lineup of all three in a completed traced and cut pattern. From Left to Right: Freezer Paper, Medical Exam Table Paper, Swedish Tracing Paper First up: Freezer Paper Pros: Not very expensive $5.76 for the box which is 33 yards x 18 inches wide or about $0.17 a yard Can write on it easily Pencil erases on it Thicker paper - not likely to tear easy Can iron it on to slippery fabric to cut it out easier as it sticks right on; once cut you can just peel it off the fabric or even sew with it still attached and remove after. Cons: Can not iron out the fold lines from storage - ironing will melt it to whatever it touches It's thicker fabric so it may dull scissors It is harder to see through to trace patterns as shown below. Next up: Swedish Tracing Paper Birch Street Clothing Swedish Tracing Paper - 29"x 30' White Pros: Can write on it fairly easy with a dull # 2 pencil. A sharp one tears at the paper Can iron out the creases from storage Doesn't wrinkle easy Very quiet as it is more like fabric than paper Thin like interfacing - not likely to tear easy Holds nicely to fabrics when you are trying to cut them out Easy to see through to trace patterns (see below) Cons: Expensive $16.94 including shipping for the roll which is 30 yards x 29 inches wide or about $0.56 a yard Pencil does NOT erase on it Lastly: Medical Exam Paper Medline Exam Table Paper - Standard - Smooth, 21" x 225 ft - Qty of 12 - Model NON23326 Pros: Very Inexpensive - Box of 12 rolls totals 900 yards of 21" wide for $35.98 or less than $0.04 yard! Can write on easily Pencil erases easy Can iron out the creases from storage (low setting) Easy to pin to fabric when cutting out Easy to see through to trace patterns (see below) Cons: Wrinkles very easy Very noisy (it is just like the stuff you sit on at the doctor's office) Very thin - possible to tear easier however I have not had issue with this yet And there you have it! For me the winner is The Medline Exam Table Paper - Standard - Smooth, 21" x 225 ft - Qty of 12 - Model NON23326 Why? Because you CANNOT beat that price! Plus it is see through and works well for my needs. I have a box of 12 rolls/900 yards that will probably last me a lifetime! I can deal with the noise - it is just the same with the pattern tissue paper noise. I can deal with the wrinkles because I can iron them out on low setting. I just cannot justify the cost of Swedish Tracing Paper anymore. Plus, I won't run out now in the middle of a project! The medical paper is slightly more thick than the pattern tissue paper to give you an idea of what it is like. *note: it is easy to trace Ottobre patterns onto the medical paper too. It is nice and easy to see the colored pattern lines through the paper. So what are your thoughts? What do you use to trace your patterns? ~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Highlights Take your knitting knowledge to the next level with this helpful guidebook from two professional knitting tech editors that sets much-needed standards for writing clear, accurate instructions--perfect for those interested in writing and selling original patterns. About the Author: Kristina McGrath worked as a freelance technical editor for knitting patterns for 7 years, after a decade of knitting all the things, and now works as a consultant in the industry, as well as hosting Tech Tip Talk with Sarah Walworth. 176 Pages Crafts + Hobbies, Needlework Description About the Book "The Knitting Pattern Writing Handbook sets new standards for clear, accurate pattern writing, walking aspiring and experienced designers alike through each must-have component of a thorough, well-written pattern, including how to devise and present gauge, charts, and sizing information that is correct and easy-to-follow"-- Book Synopsis Take your knitting knowledge to the next level with this helpful guidebook from two professional knitting tech editors that sets much-needed standards for writing clear, accurate instructions--perfect for those interested in writing and selling original patterns. Knitting patterns are notorious for inaccuracies in measurements and confusing directions--but no more! The Knitting Pattern Writing Handbook sets new standards for clear, accurate pattern writing, walking aspiring and experienced designers alike through each must-have component of a thorough, well-written pattern, including how to devise and present gauge, charts, and sizing information that is correct and easy-to-follow. With a focus on how to make patterns accessible to contemporary knitters--especially beginning knitters--this much-needed reference book is destined to become a classic in an industry that is beginning to professionalize after decades (even centuries!) of informal and home-based instruction. With 90,000 patterns being sold annually on the popular knitting community site Ravelry, there's a burgeoning group of indie knitwear designers eager for this guidance, provided by authors Kristina McGrath and Sarah Walworth, who host a monthly live broadcast on the technical aspect of knitting design. Review Quotes "The Knitting Pattern Writing Handbook covers all aspects of writing a good pattern, from developing a style sheet or writing instructions in a consistent manner (in text, by the schematic, or through charts), to working with a tech editor and addressing sizing issues. Clearly written and comprehensive in scope, I wish I had had this book when I began to design."--Beth Brown-Reinsel, author of Knitting Ganseys "I wish I had this as a resource when I first started designing knitwear. The checklists for consistency when writing patterns are a necessity, and the grading information for accurate sizing over multiple silhouettes is invaluable. I plan to keep a copy in my design library... and you should too!"--Laura Nelkin of Nelkin Designs "If there's one thing I've learned, it's to always listen to my tech editors. It's easy when everything is so well explained! The Knitting Pattern Writing Handbook should be required reading for all aspiring pattern designers; not just for the technical information about laying out your patterns with consistency and clarity, but for the included question and answer sessions in each chapter, where the authors dive into all the things you've wanted to know (but were afraid to ask)!"--Hannah Thiessen Howard, Author of Slow Knitting & Seasonal Slow Knitting "In The Knitting Pattern Writing Handbook, Kristina and Sarah take the mystery out of how to write a knitting pattern. They offer new designers wise, experienced advice on how to avoid the most common designer pitfalls. This is the book I want all my tech-edit clients to read. Save yourself time, money and headaches by reading The Knitting Pattern Writing Handbook before you start your next knitting pattern!"--Edie Eckman, knit and crochet designer and author "This much needed guide is filled with industry secrets and standards, making it invaluable to new and experienced knitwear designers alike. I cannot wait to share this book with my design students!"--Safiyyah Talley, author of Knit 2 Socks in 1 About the Author Kristina McGrath worked as a freelance technical editor for knitting patterns for 7 years, after a decade of knitting all the things, and now works as a consultant in the industry, as well as hosting Tech Tip Talk with Sarah Walworth. She is passionate about good fit and size-inclusivity, and helping to make working with patterns the best it can be, for designers, editors, and knitters. Kristina lives in Massachusetts with her family, and lots of pencils and paperweights. Sarah Walworth re-learned to knit as an adult when she needed a way to keep her hands busy while homeschooling her children. It quickly cascaded into re-writing patterns to fit her, absorbing all the techniques, and eventually training to be a technical editor and pattern grader. After several years of working as a freelance technical editor, she now runs The Tech Editor Hub where she is building a community of yarn professionals advancing their technical skills and growing successful businesses. Walworth cohosts Tech Tip Talk with Kristina McGrath, and lives in North Texas with her husband of 25 years, their small flock of chickens and 2 crazy herding dogs. www.sarahwalworth.com

Learn about the 6 most common crochet sweater designs; drop shoulder, modified drop, set in sleeve, dolman, top-down raglan and circular yokes

I have a confession to make: when I launched my Dinosaurs Set 1, I promised I'd design another set if/when I sold 100 copies of the first set. And, ahem, well let's just say that happened quite some time ago... I did start working on Set 2 in rare quiet periods while I was working on m ...

Learn how to tailor your favorite shirts at the side seams for a perfect fit! Detailed instructions and photos included.

Inspiring interview with Australian artist, calligrapher and art blogger Chrissie Murphy. She provides helpful advice for aspiring artists and gives lots of insights about her amazing work.

Eco-friendly and ethically made hats, scarves, gloves, and hats to get you through the bitter, cold winter in style.