Tiaraa
Sketch and close up of the diamond and sapphire kokoshnic made for Grand Duchess Alexandra Petrovna, circa 1838. The sapphire tiara was auctioned by Christie's in March 1927
platinum, eight spiral elements set with eight central old brilliant cut diamonds total approx. 1.00 ct, diamonds of various cut total approx. 6.60 ct and rose cut diamonds total approx. 4.35 ct, 950/1000, weight 91.20 g, 1920s, assay office certificate, missing rose cuts, signs of repair, without framework, no etui (Ši) This diadem is a masterpiece, which was most probably made by a leading European jewellery house at the beginning of the 20th century. It is comparable to the so-called Townsend Tiara dating from 1905, which was made by Cartier and is now a part of the Cartier Collection. Social “white” jewellery from the Belle Epoque (approximately corresponding to the Edwardian period in England) is distinguished by its unusual delicacy and fragility, which is imparted by use of a white metal set with brilliant diamonds all over its surface. The symmetrical composition, which escalates towards the centre, is composed of eight loosely connected elements in the shape of a spiral of tendrils in platinum and set with over a thousand diamonds, of a total mass of approximately 12.00 ct. In the upper classes the diadem was an essential part of a lady’s hairstyle on various festive occasions, such as balls, concerts, or large family gatherings. During the period between 1890 and 1920 it was practically a compulsory part of a lady’s social dress for participation in audiences at the royal court, today we cannot imagine a bride “in white” without one. Expensive, valuable jewellery became the foundation of a family’s assets and certainly included diadems. Royal families own whole collections of tiaras, headpieces and diadems and one of the biggest collections is owned by the British Queen Elizabeth II. This unique piece of jewellery was owned by the family of Vojtěch Mastný, one of the most important lawyers and diplomats of the era of the First Czechoslovak Republic. He had the diadem made for his wife, probably on one of his missions to either London or Berlin, where he was ambassador. The supporting structure for this diadem has been lost, but it can be reworked into a new piece of jewellery, in the spirit of the original purpose of similar items, which were always multipurpose.
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