December 7, 2014--Just completed the third and final set of Stitches for Effect Classes.  This one was called Christmas Stitches I. I have...

Machine Shadow Work http://www.elizabethsembroideries.com/ShadowWork.html

I finally have the time to report on my Tony Minieri class at The Needle Works.  It was wonderful.  I got to meet one of my stitching ido...

Open needlepoint stitches are decorative techniques that let some of the canvas show through. This creates a lighter, more airy effect compared to full coverage stitches. Open stitches are great for backgrounds. They add texture and visual interest. Find out how.

100% wool felt doll, for the shaven head effect I embroidered his head with little stitches

Top tip - keeping your stitches on the smaller side will help with getting the tight curves of letters a little bit neater. Click on the name of each stitch to see a video tutorialBack Stitch The back stitch is probably one of the easiest stitches to get the hang of. It's mostly used for stitching lines or outlining shapes. And it's ideal for stitching text! Variations: whip your back stitch with a contrasting colour for a twisted effect. Or build up lines of back stitch to fill larger letters -

hand #crochet top with a mesh wrap around body and loose stitches for a more exposed effect #handmade #crochetdesign#knit

The crochet butterfly is a stitch pattern worked across multiple stitches and multiple rows for a beautiful decorative, lacy effect.

Eyelash stitches are Blanket stitches spaced further apart – the loops lie a little bit closer than the “legs.” In the past, it was quite common for Schwalm whitework embroiderers to outline shapes with Eyelash stitches or to work Eyelash stitches as a decorative element. Also many examples of early Schwalm whitework document the use of these stitches. As time passed, Eyelash stitches were worked less often. In embroideries of the last decades they are scarcely seen – that´s a pity because Eyelash stitches are decorative and effective. I have shown on my blog the use of Eyelash stitches on embroideries. The border from 1804 has some shapes that were outlined with Eyelash stitches. And one shape of the traditional Schwalm bodice A is partly outlined with Eyelash stitches. Eyelash stitches – embroidered with heavier thread and worked more densely – outline the heart shape of a sleeve cuff border. Very short Eyelash stitches are found on a delicate example of early Schwalm whitework from about 1780. Here they outline petals and are also used to make tendrils. Short Eyelash stitches also outline the Satin stitch petals of a gorgeous contemporary table runner, which was embroidered using traditional patterns in the style of the early Schwalm whitework. Some longer Eyelash stitches decorate a line of design No. 1 of my 2017 Advent calendar They can be seen on other parts of the Advent Calendar. as well – here Eyelash stitches outline Blanket stitch eyelets. If, like here, Blanket stitches meet with the loops of the Eyelash stitch, a raised double line is established making the pattern especially effective. I found a very singular variation of Eyelash stitches on a very old embroidery. On this piece all shapes were outlined with long, closely worked and slanting Eyelash stitches. Eyelash stitches are suitable for many uses, and they establish a decorative effect.

Are you looking for an easy blanket pattern to expand on your new crochet skills? Mix basic stitches together for a great visual effect.

Awesome cabled effect created using just knit and purl stitches! Thank you so much D in the comments section for writing out the instructions for this pattern! Rows 1, 7, 13, 19, 25, and 31 (RS): Knit.Rows 2, 8, 14, 20, 26, and 32: Purl.Rows 3 and 5: *P2, k4, p6, k4, p4, repeat from […]

The name Plaid Filling Stitch suggests that it is used for filling. It resembles the tartan patterns used in Scottish kilts. Laid threads are couched using Straight Stitches that give a rich effect. It gives ample scope to play with colors.

The Bryn Knit Baby Blanket is a beautiful free knitting pattern perfect for any skill level. Since this blanket only uses knit and purl stitches, it is great for beginners and features a lovely cobblestone effect.

This is a free pattern for a crochet buffalo check blanket. I experimented with stitches and decided with the bulky weight, a half double crochet (HDC) would be the best stitch to use. I'm working in the back loop however, to give it a ridged effect.

Lovely squashy effect from the front and back post stitches. Starting triangles with 6ch instead of 8. Also starting rows with 2dc, so finishing with ch1, hdc. Works out neater for me. Also, just...

MINI Chain Hand stitch effect Chain Varsity sport collegiate Font machine embroidery design textured alphabet letters chain monogram BX includedThe whole alphabet A-Z uppercase and numbers 0-9.SIZES1.5 inches2 inches2.2 inches2.5 inchesThe count of stitches for letter A:1.5 - 2.880 stitches2 - 3.1

Let the wild stitches of these Jacobean flowers bring texture to pillows, totes, and more. Accents of metallic thread create a shimmering effect. This machine embroidery design contains sheer stitching and open areas; embroider on solid-colored fabrics for best results.

What is the long and short stitch and how do I use it? The long and short stitch is a series of straight stitches that interlock to fill in a larger shape. This embroidery fill stitch allows for a smooth transition of colors, giving the piece a blended effect. Whereas the satin stitch does a good job filling in small a

Description Don't let Foxy get you! Here's the pattern to go with him, *should anyone use this pattern in any way please credit me and send me a link to your page so I can put it here*!! I've never written out a pattern before so I apologise if there is any mistakes! Most of this is worked in continuing rounds Body *red* Ch6, Magic Ring 2DC in each 1DC in 1 stitch, 2 in next (repeat around) 1DC in 2 stitches, 2 in next (repeat around) 1DC in 3 stitches, 2 in next (repeat around) 1DC in 4 stitches, 2 in next (repeat around) 1DC in each for 10 rounds *Change colour to brown* 1DC in each for 3 rounds 1DC in 4 stitches, Decrease (repeat around) 1DC in 3 stitches, Decrease (repeat around) 1DC in 2 stitches, Decrease (repeat around) 1DC in 1 stitch, Decrease (repeat around) Decrease around FO Legs x2 *brown* Ch6, Magic Ring 2DC in each 1Dc in 1 stitch, 2 in next (repeat around) 1DC in each stitch for 5 rounds *Change colour to grey* 1DC in 1 stitch, decrease (repeat around) 1DC in each for 10 rounds Decrease around FO Foot x2 *grey* Ch6, Magic Ring 2DC in each 1DC in each stitch for 8 rounds Flatten and stitch closed Toes x6 *grey* Ch4 Miss stitch closest to hook, DC in remaining 3 FO Arms (left) *grey* Ch6, Magic Ring 2DC in each 1DC in each for 3 rounds *change colour to red* 1DC in each for 14 rounds Flatten end and stitch closed FO *use wire to create a hook and insert into grey end, I made a coat hanger shape to achieve this* Arm (right) *red* Ch6, Magic Ring 2DC in each 1dc in each for 14 rounds Flatten end and stitch closed FO Right Hand *grey* Ch6, Magic ring 2DC in each 1DC in each for 5 rounds Flatten and stitch closed Fingers x3 *grey* Ch5 Miss stitch closest to hook and DC in remaining 4 Head *red* Ch6, Magic Ring 2DC in each 1DC, 2DC in next (repeat around) 1DC in 2 stitches, 2DC in next (repeat around) 1DC in 3 stitches, 2DC in next (repeat around) 1DC in 4 stitches, 2DC in next (repeat around) 1DC in 5 stitches, 2DC in next (repeat around) 1DC in each for 2 rounds 1DC in 5 stitches, Decrease (repeat around) 1DC in each for 2 rounds 1DC in 4 stitches, Decrease (repeat around) 1DC in each for 2 rounds 1DC in 3 stitches, Decrease (repeat around) 1DC in each for 2 rounds 1DC in 2 stitches, Decrease (repeat around) 1DC, Decrease (repeat around) Decrease around FO Whiskers/Fur Detail *red* Small x2 Ch3, Magic ring 2DC in each 1DC in each for 5 rounds Large x2 Ch3, Magic Ring 2DC in each 1DC in each 1DC in 1 stitch, 2 in next 1DC in each for 5 rounds Muzzle  *red or a lighter red that rest of body* (This is made up of 5 rectangle pieces) Sides x2 Ch10 1DC in each for 3 rows Top and bottom Ch10 1DC in each for 8 rows Front Ch6 1DC in each for 3 rows Lower Jaw *red* Ch5, Magic Ring 2DC in each 1DC in each 2DC in first stitch, 1DC in remaining stitches 1DC in each for 5 rounds FO Flatten Ears x2 *red* Ch11 1DC in 2 stitches 1 Half treble in 3 stitches 1 Triple in 5 stitches Ch1 and turn 1T in 5 stitches 1HT in 3 stitches 1DC in 2 stitches Ch1 and turn 1DC in 2 stitches 1HT in 3 stitches 1T in 5 stitches FO Inner Ear x2 *Black* Ch8 1DC in 2 stitches 1HT in 2 stitches 1T in 3 stitches Ch1 and turn 1T in 3 stitches 1HT in 2 stitches 1DC in 2 stitches FO Teeth *white* Large x2 Ch5 1DC in 1 stitch 1HT in 2 stitches 1T in 1 stitches FO Small x2 Ch4 1DC in 1 stitch 1HT in 1 stitch 1T in 1 stitch Eyes x2 *white* Ch5, Magic Ring 2DC in each FO Add a few black speckles on his muzzle for a whisker effect, some grey around the body for the metal and black circles in the eyes and you should be all done! Hope you enjoy guys!

A plain cotton sheet set at a department store might cost $25-$30. But add a line of decorative stitching along the turn-down edge, and it looks like the $99+ set that came out of a fancy catalog. Maybe you don't care for fancy sheets in catalogs – but the point is: a little decorative stitching adds a lot, and can take a sewing project from ordinary to "Did you really make that?!" Just about every sewing machine, even the basic ones, have at least a few decorative stitches built in. Here's a look at the stitch chart of the 425 that come standard with the new Janome Horizon Memory Craft 12000. With a few tips and a little practice, you can be using them like a pro! Nearly all the decorative stitches on the Memory Craft 12000 can be sewn up to 9mm in width. Pretty! Decorative vs. Embroidery First, a little nomenclature. Some people refer to decorative stitches as "embroidery stitches." While some of them do look like lines of hand embroidery, in the sewing machine world, "embroidery" always refers to the stitching done by an embroidery machine, using a special carriage and hoops. Decorative stitches are ones you can sew out just like a regular stitch. As we mentioned above, top-of-the-line machines, like Janome's Horizon Memory Craft 12000, have hundreds of decorative stitches, including alphabets, vintage dress forms, even little hand bags and kitty cats. But you can sew them out just like you would a straight stitch. (The MC12000 also lets you create your own custom decorative stitches from scratch, but don't get me started on that.) Preparing your fabric Decorative stitches are generally wider and use more thread than simple utility stitches, so they have a greater chance of making your fabric pucker. You can try stabilizing your fabric with spray starch. Follow the directions on the can. Then sew a test row of your stitching. If spray starch isn't strong enough, try a tear-away stabilizer. Since you'll probably be sewing along a relatively narrow area, to conserve, you can cut the stabilizer sheet into strips and pin it in place. Again sew some test seams. For expert help in getting the right stabilizer for your project, ask for a little advice at your sewing machine or fabric store. Slow down a little Your sewing needle is covering a lot of ground when you sew a decorative stitch. If you try to sew out an ornate stitch at top speed, the quality will suffer. So run your machine a little slower and be patient. You'll be much happier with the results. Guidelines It's a good idea to use guidelines on your fabric. Decorative stitches don't sew straight - the needle often moves right, left and backwards as the machine creates each stitch, so it can be difficult to keep the stitches in a straight line. Following a guide line will help you to keep things straight. Using a clear ruler, decide exactly where you want your line of decorative stitching to appear and draw a line right on the fabric. Make sure you use a special fabric marking pen that easily erases or washes away. Feet and tension adjustments Your sewing machine may have come with a foot designed to do decorative stitching, such as a Satin Stitch foot. If you don't have one or aren't sure, ask your local sewing machine dealer about the decorative stitch foot that will work best with your machine. Now... watch that foot! When sewing decorative stitches, don't watch the needle; watch the foot. As I said above, the needle will move around quite a bit as the machine makes the stitch. The presser foot is your best guide for the placement of the stitch - the center of the foot will indicate where the center of each stitch will be sewn. Janome's Satin Stitch foot has a little red arrow at the exact center, which makes it very easy to stay on track. Because decorative stitches pull a little more on the fabric, you may need to lower your upper thread tension 1-2 notches. This will keep the bobbin thread from being pulled up to the top where it will show. Decorative stitching for appliqué One of the most popular uses for decorative stitches is appliqué. Nearly any machine that offers decorative stitches contains at least one you can use for this technique. These are simple stitches, which are used to hide the seam between the background fabric and the appliqué (while attaching the appliqué at the same time). A Herringone stitch, Blanket stitch and the classic Satin stitch are all great appliqué options. But, why not be creative and try a few other options? Look for a stitch with a wide swing side-to-side and test first on fabric scraps. For more notes about decorative stitching for appliqué, as well as using it for ribbon embellishment and even scrapbooking and card making, check out our previous article: Decorative Stitches: Part Deux. Creating a stitch sampler It's one thing to look at the little graphic of a decorative stitch on your machine and quite another to see it stitched out with real thread on fabric. Create a little stitch sampler of your favorites to hang near your machine for easy reference. Check out the framed sample we created of some of our favorites. You could also display them in  a wooden embroidery hoop or simply mount your finished sample on a piece of heavy cardboard. If mounting in a hoop for frame, use a fabric marking pen to draw a circle or rectangle on your fabric larger than the hoop or frame. If doing a plain mount on cardboard, draw a rectangle of whatever size you'd like. Using a clear ruler and the fabric marking pen, draw parallel lines, an inch or so apart, across the circle or rectangle you drew on the fabric Starch or stabilize your fabric. Sew a different decorative stitch on each line. Using a variegated thread for this step produces a cool effect. Start sewing a few inches from the closest edge of the circle/rectangle and continue sewing at least an inch beyond the far edge. This allows the sample to fill the hoop or rectangle. When finished stitching, cut out the circle/rectangle and mount. For the cardboard option, wrap your fabric around to the back and glue in place to hide the raw edges. Hang it near your sewing machine as a handy reference. Again, our tutorial shows you the steps in more detail. Stitch combinations This sampler idea is also a great way to keep track of decorative stitch combinations you've built. What are those, you ask? Some machines can actually customize the repetition of decorative stitches. For example, the Memory Craft models in the Janome line can memorize stitch combinations, save them into a built-in memory bank in the machine, and sew them out on command: square, star, oval, feather, square, star, oval, feather, square, star, oval, feather... ad infinitum. This creates a super custom look for garments, pillows and more. The number one most important technique for sewing successfully with decorative stitches is: experimentation . Take some scraps of fabric and play!