Welcome to Part 1 of the Featherweight Case Restore Along! Today, Annette walks us through removing the old tolex, as well as what the finished...
I made a new tote for my Singer Featherweight Case! I am looking forward to taking Nova Montgomery's Featherweight Maintenance class next weekend when she comes nearby on her Autumn Tour. Because of the age and weight of my Featherweight, I do not like to rely on the case handle to tote it around. Although my case is in good shape, I would just rather not put the pressure on the handle anymore. I have been using a large canvas tote bag that fits the Featherweight case very snugly. I thought I would make a similar, but nicer tote bag for my Featherweight that matches the Singer Featherweight look. TOTE SUPPLIES: - 3/4 yard of black Double-faced Quilted Fabric (I purchased this one at my local JoAnn store). - 4 yards of 1-1/4" black Belting (Mine was $4/yard, but I used a coupon at JoAnn). - Black sewing thread FOR EMBROIDERY: - Gold or similar tone embroidery thread for embroidery. - Singer Featherweight decal embroidery design (I used the "Tall Bed Decal" from Jen's Vintage Sewing) - The "Singer Featherweight" wording I did on my computer using a "Shelley" font. (.PES format is here for FREE - disclaimer - please test stitch your design first.) DIRECTIONS: 1. Fold the fabric with selvage edges together. Cut a 16.5" strip across the width of the fabric. This is the body of the tote bag. This will be a snug fit, like a glove. You could make yours 17" or even 17.5" wide if you want more room. 2. Cut a 9" strip across the width of the fabric. Cut this long strip in half, so you have two pieces, each 9" wide. These will be used for the side panels of the bag. 3. Straighten out the edges of the fabric and trim the selvedge. IF DOING EMBROIDERY: A. Place the Featherweight case in the center of the large panel and gather the edges together to get an idea of where you would like your embroidery placed. B. Mark the center for embroidery. C. Edit the design as desired. Hoop the fabric and embroider using your center mark made earlier. 4. Pin the cotton belting to the front of your tote panel. I pinned mine 3" from the edge. Start the belt at the bottom of the bag (center of the tote body panel). 5. Pin the belting up the side of the body panel, give 24" for the handle, and continue pinning back down the other side of the panel. Across the bottom, and up the panel, giving an equivalent 24" for the other handle. 6. Pin the belting back to the beginning, overlapping a good inch. Cut the excess and fold the edge under a bit for a clean look. 7. Sew on the belting. Start at the bottom, zigzag across the folded edge and box stitch the overlap for reinforcement. Sew along each edge of the belting, a scant 1/4". 8. Stop sewing the belting 1" from the top edge of the tote. We will be folding the top 1" of fabric over at the end of the construction. Box stitch the belting at this point for reinforcement. 9. Find the center of the long edges of the tote body panel, and the center of a 9" side of each side panel. Pin a side panel to each side of the body, matching the centers, right sides together. Baste or sew each side in place, 1/4" seam. 10. Pin the side panel long edges to the sides of the tote body panel, right sides together. The side panel will be a longer than the tote body - that is OK, we will trim it later. 11. Sew a side panel to the tote body panel, using 1/2" seam. Start from the tote's top edge, go down, around the bottom (where it is already sewn in step #9), and back up to the top. Repeat for the other side panel. 12. Trim the side panels top raw edge even with the top of tote body panel. Fold the top of the tote fabric down 1" all around (wrong sides together) and sew to secure. Turn your tote right-side out and push out the bottom corners. Top-stitch around the top of the tote, 1/4". The Singer Featherweight case fits nicely inside! OPTIONAL: I added snaps along the top of the tote for a neater look. These snaps are functional for when the case is in storage, as most will pop open when carrying the tote in transit. I now have a complete 3-piece set for my Singer Featherweight. I have a tote for machine, a tote for the extension table, and a matching apron to wear. All set!! Happy Stitching! Sylvia
Finally, here is my pattern for making a cover for your Featherweight case. This does not enclose the case at the bottom, but just covers it to protect it from dust, scratches, and scuffs. This fits the newer style case from about the 1950s. The older ones, with the tray insert, have slightly different dimensions, so substitute your own measurements if necessary These are the basic materials - a yard each of a main and contrast/lining fabric plus fusible fleece. I don't show the piping here, but add that in as well as any other trims (rick rack, appliqué, or whatever) you want. From the lining/contrast fabric: Front/Back: cut 2 @ 15-3/4" x 13-1/8" Sides: cut 2 @ 9-1/4" x 13-1/8" Top: cut 1 @ 15-3/4" x 9-1/4" From the main fabric and the fusible fleece: Front/Back: cut 2 @ 15-3/4" x 11-5/8" Sides: cut 2 @ 9-1/4" x 11-5/8" Top: cut 1 @ 15-3/4" x 9-1/4" Trim away 1/2" seam allowance before fusing the fleece in order to reduce bulk in the seams. (NOTE: There is no seam allowance at the lower edge of the Front, Back, and Sides.) Now cut out a 6-1/2" x 1" rectangle from the center of each Top section as shown: On each piece, mark the corners with small dots at the seam allowance as shown. NOTE: Seam allowance is 1/2" Mark dots on corners at seam allowance (1/2" x 1/2") To Sew With Main fabric, sew Front and Back to Sides, stopping exactly on dots, and back stitch to reinforce. Press seams open. Using the top cut from Contrast fabric, pin to the Sides, matching dots. Begin and end seam exactly on the dots, and backstitch to reinforce. These should meet at a perfect right angle, as shown below. After Top is sewn at both Sides, pin it along Front/Back edges, folding back the seam allowance from the previous seams and matching dots. Begin and end these seams exactly on the dots, reinforcing with backstitching as before. Fold back previous seam allowance Here is how your corners will look when finished You can slip this on over the case to help you shape it and lightly press the seams open (Careful, don't scorch your case!) Trim corners, if you want, to make a neater finish. Sew Lining in the same way with remaining pieces, then press under 1/2" on bottom edge. Now, put the Main cover back on the case right side up and the Lining over it right side down (right sides together, in other words). Match the openings and pin as shown Sew around this opening about 1/4" from opening edge. I used the wide toe of my presser foot as the guide. (You have to turn it inside out to get in there to sew) Reinforce at the corners as you turn. Slash right up to the stitching at the corners and trim Pull the lining through the opening, then you can put this back on the case to press it. (Again, not too hot, you don't want to damage the leather of your case!) After pressing, topstitch around opening if desired. With cover on the case pull Lining down tautly all around. It will extend 1-1/2" beyond the bottom (with 1/2" previously pressed under.) Turn this back up over the exterior and pin into place all around, matching corners first. Insert piping between the layers if desired and sew the reverse hem with a zipper foot. Or sew the hem down with a decorative stitch, blind hem stitch (like an appliqué), or whatever you want. And here is a variation of the Case Cover, which is a Machine Cover (or Cozy) to cover your Featherweight while it's not in use. Case Cover and Machine Cover The instructions are exactly as for the Case Cover except to substitute the following measurements (and of course, you leave off the opening for the handle): FINISHED SIZE: 16" long X 8.5" high X 7.5" wide Exterior Fabric: Top - 17" X 8.5" Front/Back - 2@ 17" X 9.5" Sides - 2@ 8.5" x 9.5" Lining Fabric: Top - 17" X 8.5" Front/Back - 2@ 17" X 11" Sides - 2@ 8.5" X 11" OPTIONAL: To give the machine cover more structure I interlined it with flexible foam. After sewing the Exterior together, I cut pieces of foam to fit each of the top, sides, front/back sections (use finished size measurements) then used spray adhesive to glue them into place before inserting the lining. That's it! If you make this, I'd love for you to send me a photo.
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
Produced from the mid to late 1960's in Kilbowie Scotland, this machine was something fresh and new to the Singer Featherweight market. The official Singer...
I made a new tote for my Singer Featherweight Case! I am looking forward to taking Nova Montgomery's Featherweight Maintenance class next weekend when she comes nearby on her Autumn Tour. Because of the age and weight of my Featherweight, I do not like to rely on the case handle to tote it around. Although my case is in good shape, I would just rather not put the pressure on the handle anymore. I have been using a large canvas tote bag that fits the Featherweight case very snugly. I thought I would make a similar, but nicer tote bag for my Featherweight that matches the Singer Featherweight look. TOTE SUPPLIES: - 3/4 yard of black Double-faced Quilted Fabric (I purchased this one at my local JoAnn store). - 4 yards of 1-1/4" black Belting (Mine was $4/yard, but I used a coupon at JoAnn). - Black sewing thread FOR EMBROIDERY: - Gold or similar tone embroidery thread for embroidery. - Singer Featherweight decal embroidery design (I used the "Tall Bed Decal" from Jen's Vintage Sewing) - The "Singer Featherweight" wording I did on my computer using a "Shelley" font. (.PES format is here for FREE - disclaimer - please test stitch your design first.) DIRECTIONS: 1. Fold the fabric with selvage edges together. Cut a 16.5" strip across the width of the fabric. This is the body of the tote bag. This will be a snug fit, like a glove. You could make yours 17" or even 17.5" wide if you want more room. 2. Cut a 9" strip across the width of the fabric. Cut this long strip in half, so you have two pieces, each 9" wide. These will be used for the side panels of the bag. 3. Straighten out the edges of the fabric and trim the selvedge. IF DOING EMBROIDERY: A. Place the Featherweight case in the center of the large panel and gather the edges together to get an idea of where you would like your embroidery placed. B. Mark the center for embroidery. C. Edit the design as desired. Hoop the fabric and embroider using your center mark made earlier. 4. Pin the cotton belting to the front of your tote panel. I pinned mine 3" from the edge. Start the belt at the bottom of the bag (center of the tote body panel). 5. Pin the belting up the side of the body panel, give 24" for the handle, and continue pinning back down the other side of the panel. Across the bottom, and up the panel, giving an equivalent 24" for the other handle. 6. Pin the belting back to the beginning, overlapping a good inch. Cut the excess and fold the edge under a bit for a clean look. 7. Sew on the belting. Start at the bottom, zigzag across the folded edge and box stitch the overlap for reinforcement. Sew along each edge of the belting, a scant 1/4". 8. Stop sewing the belting 1" from the top edge of the tote. We will be folding the top 1" of fabric over at the end of the construction. Box stitch the belting at this point for reinforcement. 9. Find the center of the long edges of the tote body panel, and the center of a 9" side of each side panel. Pin a side panel to each side of the body, matching the centers, right sides together. Baste or sew each side in place, 1/4" seam. 10. Pin the side panel long edges to the sides of the tote body panel, right sides together. The side panel will be a longer than the tote body - that is OK, we will trim it later. 11. Sew a side panel to the tote body panel, using 1/2" seam. Start from the tote's top edge, go down, around the bottom (where it is already sewn in step #9), and back up to the top. Repeat for the other side panel. 12. Trim the side panels top raw edge even with the top of tote body panel. Fold the top of the tote fabric down 1" all around (wrong sides together) and sew to secure. Turn your tote right-side out and push out the bottom corners. Top-stitch around the top of the tote, 1/4". The Singer Featherweight case fits nicely inside! OPTIONAL: I added snaps along the top of the tote for a neater look. These snaps are functional for when the case is in storage, as most will pop open when carrying the tote in transit. I now have a complete 3-piece set for my Singer Featherweight. I have a tote for machine, a tote for the extension table, and a matching apron to wear. All set!! Happy Stitching! Sylvia
Finally, here is my pattern for making a cover for your Featherweight case. This does not enclose the case at the bottom, but just covers it...
Long story short-- I am a big yard sale shopper....however lately I haven't been going....sad, I know.
Well, since I have the Juki I felt I needed to get some Signature quilting thread. It is the one I like, even though it is linty. It is 100% cotton and the purist in me likes that....So I ordered the thread chart/fan deck from Kingsmen Quilting. I used to have all the colors (when I was a longarmer)...but then I gave them away with the machine. Now I only want to order the ones I need, as I need them. ;-)...Yeah, right!! These are the actual threads wrapped around the cards! Yes, I am a thread junkie as well. They are all so pretty....I want one of each!! No....no .....no......maybe next week! Also, the Goodwill had 50% off all clothing today. I'll post pics later of my finds! I am now going to sew the final seam on the fall leaf quilt and cut some small border strips to bring it to 60" wide. More pics later (isn't that why we like blogs???)....Happy Saturday! Oh yeah, another great find at Wal-Mart...Hard Candy lip gloss--smells like cotton candy!
Welcome to Part 1 of the Featherweight Case Restore Along! Today, Annette walks us through removing the old tolex, as well as what the finished...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
In this video tutorial, our young daughter, Ruthie, will show you all the restoration steps for how to clean, polish and refurbish/restore a Singer Featherweight...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
For Singer, the number one selling point for the Featherweight was its portability with the lightweight design of the machine unique and desirable. For the...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
Welcome to Part 1 of the Featherweight Case Restore Along! Today, Annette walks us through removing the old tolex, as well as what the finished...
This is truly amazing what has been designed here. For Singer Featherweight sewing machine owners and lovers, here is a pattern and a tutorial that will show
Happy Wednesday! Today I want to share a few of my favorite resources, tips, and tricks for Sewing on a Vintage Singer Featherweight 221. I was very lucky to find a featherweight under the tree this past Christmas from my parents. It is in beautiful condition, and had been picked up with it's original case, accessories, and even the loan agreement. You can read a bit more about that story here. I had it cleaned and serviced at my local sewing machine shop after I got it, wanting to make sure it was in true working order between I started using it. I don't regret having it serviced that first time, because I really felt like it needed to be seen first by a professional. However, since that first cleaning I've serviced and cleaned it myself. Now that I've been using it pretty heavily for the past 5-6 months, I want to share my experiences with you all! Ever since my machine returned from it's first tune-up, I've been using it almost exclusively for piecework. Nearly anything that was just simple piecing, since March has been done on my featherweight. That includes the majority of the projects that I made for my Quilt Market booth this past Spring! I continue to use my Janome Horizon 7700 for anything that requires a walking foot, like bags with interfacing, shirring and for all my quilting. I wouldn't trade it for those things for sure. But for pretty much everything else, I'm preferring the featherweight. It is so easy to use for piecing, and creates amazing stitches. In addition, it is so lightweight and it takes up such little space so it's great for traveling. Two resources that have been really helpful for me is Featherweight 221: The Perfect Portable And It's Stitches Across History by Nancy Johnson-Srebro, and The Featherweight 221 and I by David McCallum. Nancy's book is all about the history of the featherweight, the different models and accessories. There is part of the original manual in it as well, but in general it is more of a commentary on featherweights rather than a how-to manual. It was really interesting, I read through most of it in one sitting! David McCallum's book is a true how-to guide. It is a comprehensive guide to care and also repair. I turn to this book every time I need to oil my machine. It has very clear, easy to read diagrams for where to oil and how often each spot should be oiled. Only the front of each page is printed, so you can use the backs of the pages to take notes. I keep track of each time I oil my machine to make sure I don't oil it too often or not enough. I highly recommend both books, but if you only buy one, buy The Featherweight 221 and I by David McCallum. You don't need much to take care of regular maintenance on a featherweight. These are some of my favorite tools: I always have compressed air on hand to use on all of my machines. It's great for getting dust and lint from hard to reach places, like under the needle plate and in the bobbin case. I seem to keep buying this one by 3M, it lasts a while. Early on I picked up a non-abrasive car wax to protect the surface of the featherweight and keep it nice and shiny. This butter smooth wax has worked great and doesn't have a strong smell. Make sure to test any wax on a hidden place first. I buff it on with a microfiber cloth. Unlike most of today's machines, featherweights need oiling on a regular basis to make sure it's running smoothly. I oil mine after every 8 hours or so of use. Not all parts of the machine need oiled that often though. Once you get used to your machine, you'll be able to hear and feel when it needs oil. I really like the Zoom Spout Oil*. It has a thin spout that comes way out of the bottle, making it easy to get hard to reach places. You only need a tiny drop in each spot, and this oil makes it easy to control the oil. I use q-tips to clean up any excess oil. You'll also need Singer Motor Lubricant for the gears and motor. Before you start sewing again, sew through some scrap fabric to make sure everything is running okay and to let any excess oil run onto the scrap instead of your project. *Update: I recently started using this oil pen, which makes it even easier to deliver one drop at a time. I absolutely love it, and it's refillable! Once the machine is all nice and clean, it's back to sewing! I use Schmetz Universal Needles in my featherweight. They work great in all my machines, I like not having to order anything special. The needles go in sideways and you thread it from right to left. I only use Aurifil cotton thread in my featherweight. It feeds so smoothly through the machine, and it only seems right to treat it to the best thread! Like all machines, featherweights have their own quirks when it comes to actually sewing. I like to use the stock foot that came with the machine to do all my piecing. It's super skinny which makes top stitching really nice and the 1/4" guide is easy to see. You can buy a 1/4" foot for your featherweight, but I don't have one for mine. I don't ever use the 1/4" foot I have for my Janome, so I probably wouldn't use one for this either. I'm not sure why, I just don't like using them! One of the biggest tricks that helped make things easier for me, was learning how to loosen the hand wheel so that the needle doesn't run up and down while you wind a bobbin. Before you start winding, hold the large wheel in place with one hand and turn the small wheel towards you until it loosens. Wind your bobbin and turn it back until it locks in place when you're done. I do have the original carrying case for my featherweight, but I decided to create my own set of accessories for travel and storage. I wanted something cuter and also a little more functional. You can read more about my featherweight travel set here. Want to make your own set? Check out my Sew Portable Travel Set Pattern! I also have a tutorial for a patchwork mat to match! I'm not a featherweight expert, but I've definitely learned a lot using it these last few months. I'm looking forward to stitching up lots more projects with it! I hope this was helpful to some of you! Do you sew on a vintage machine? What are your favorite tips, tricks, and resources?
Also, oval in shape and will fit inside the Featherweight Case.
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
Welcome back to the Singer Featherweight Case Restore Along! If you are just joining us, you can catch up on Part 19, 20 & 21 of the Case...
Welcome to Part 1 of the Featherweight Case Restore Along! Today, Annette walks us through removing the old tolex, as well as what the finished...
Part 5, Preparing the Fabric and Part 6, Waterproofing the Fabric Welcome back to the Singer Featherweight Case Restore Along! If you are just joining...
This is Singer Featherweight Stitch Formation 101! If your Singer Featherweight is skipping stitches, not stitching at all, won't pick up the bobbin thread or...
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
Is your machine skipping stitches, or looping strangely after it was sewing just perfectly moments before? Most all stitch problems on a Singer Featherweight have...
For Singer, the number one selling point for the Featherweight was its portability with the lightweight design of the machine unique and desirable. For the...
The Singer "Featherweight" became a classic sewing machine due to its portable nature and sturdy simplicity. Learn more about these popular vintage sewing machines.
For a few years now, I have been wanting to make the sewing machine mat and cover that is featured in Lori Holt's book Quilty...
