Do you find yourself avoiding your quilts in progress? Do they make you feel silly that you started? Read on to discover my trick for facing your WIP Dragons.
Update: I have added the paper piecing pattern for two sizes. The 6 inch block pattern will require four to make a finished 12 inch wedding star block. The 8 inch block pattern will require four to make a 16 inch wedding star block. To print the patterns, place mouse over the image, right click and pick "copy image". Paste image in a word document or any other program that offers printing. You may have to adjust to get the gauge to match the actual measurement. This is the 6 inch pattern, page 1 of 2. I placed a measuring gauge on the page to help with accuracy. Print 4 for each block. This is the 6 inch pattern, page 2 of 2. I placed a measuring gauge on the page to help with accuracy. Print 4 for each block. This is the 8 inch pattern, page 1 of 4. Gauge included for accuracy. Print 4 for each block. This is the 8 inch pattern, page 2 of 4. Gauge included for accuracy. Print 4 for each block. This is the 8 inch pattern, page 3 of 4. Gauge included for accuracy. Print 4 for each block. This is the 8 inch pattern, page 4 of 4. Gauge included for accuracy. Print 4 for each block. *** end of update, original blog below*** I have seen some wonderful wedding star projects. I haven't had the time to do one, yet, but I hope to do so soon. I did figure out how to make the pattern for it, though. I plan to use four of the paper pieced sections (8X8 inches) above to create a full block. This is a version of a dark background quilt. This is a version of a light background quilt. I plan to make my quilts bigger than four full stars. My quilts will have eight to ten full stars wide by eight to ten full stars tall.
I am still pondering how to proceed with an interrupted block swap that I have been doing with my friends, Ola and Mary. They are awesome piecers and I was assigned to do the applique blocks. I guess they did not want pieced blocks with cut off points, etc. I have them on my design wall. For the first few swaps, I used 6-inch applique block designs by Lori Smith for my offerings. Then I tried drafting my own. I love the pieced blocks thus far, but with my parents' accident and the move to Alabama, the swap seems interrupted and probably finished. I really enjoyed coming up with the applique designs, then making three of them. 1) Remember I had a block published a Quiltmaker 100 Blocks magazine in the last year or so? I was thinking about doing that block in repro fabrics (here's the version that was in the magazine...lots of bright yellow, pink, red and orange). Definitely NOT reproduction fabrics... This block is in the possession of Quiltmaker Magazine...I wonder what they do with all of them? Maybe they make a quilt from the 100 blocks for each edition of the magazine (this block was in Edition #10), set 10 x 10 blocks. They wanted us to sign the blocks...they must have had something in mind. Wait a minute! I think I prepped one of these blocks in repro fabrics that I never stitched down. I took a picture...now where did I tuck the actual block during the move...hmm... I remember putting it somewhere "safe." That means I won't find it for a while. It is a little Christmas-y looking in the red and green...I may prep another one, which may be easier than finding the missing block...I KNOW where to find the pattern sketch. 2) I was thinking of drafting something antique-looking, maybe a little Phoebe-ish. This is the center of a Phoebe quilt, if you aren't familiar with it. Something like that would be very pastoral and traditional... 3) I have some sketches I drew of our family when I was working on my "Civil War Bride" quilt. I ended up replacing 10 of the 20 blocks from Corliss Searcy's pattern to make the quilt more my own. I used this family "portrait" block in that quilt. But there are others... 4) And then there is this block I drew of a flower vase...it doesn't have a lot of personality, but it might fit the bill. I have been prepping the flower motifs to stitch together before stitching it to the background (so I can cut the background away later, if I choose). The larger rose blossom is almost as big as one entire little 6-inch block that I've been working on recently. This block will finish about 16 inches, so, as Bernie says, it seems YUGE! (as compared to my recent output...) It is a real challenge to make anything more complicated than folk art pictures with reproduction fabrics. The designs are distracting, most have a design that is too large-scale for subtle shading and little pieces, and the colors seem dull and lifeless. I messed around for two hours before deciding on the fabrics for this 15-piece rose (plus the six leaves)! Thank goodness I had true reds, dark reds, orange reds, pinkish reds, and brick reds in my stash. It is unfortunate to spend time drawing a complicated rose only to have the fabric choices all "read" as the same red and just make the whole thing look like a big red blob! Maybe that is why so many intricate, antique red/green applique quilts have fairly simple flower blossoms. They had so few fabric choices 'back then' to distinguish each flower petal...so why bother? I think I am leaning toward this block. At any rate, I will make it then put it all up on a design wall and ponder the results. I will be in and out for a few days, so I hope to get it all glue-basted to the background today or tonight. I have a few more LITTLE TREASURES 6-inch blocks glue-basted and ready for some serious hand-applique stitching time (and embroidery stitching) as well... Thank you for your hugs and prayers this week...I felt every one! In stitches, Teresa :o)
French Plain 100% cotton gabardine fabric pebble - 100% cotton twill fabric from France. Perfect for jackets, trousers and bags.
Alice Caroline Exclusive Liberty. Designed by Alice Caroline in collaboration with the Liberty design team. A beautiful selection of Liberty Tana Lawn.
Sometimes you need to make a quilt in just three colours. Instead of making lots of decisions for each block, spending time pondering fabric options, and learning from the experience, you need to just make one block over and over again. That is exactly what I needed for this Ice Cream Soda Quilt.
...you can't use fabric filled embroidery hoops as your ceremony backdrop? I L-O-V-E this idea! I really, really do ;-) And even if you don't want to use this idea for your ceremony, it would be fabulous just as decor or even for a photo booth. ~ Ciao ...image via purl bee
Width: 160cmComposition: 65% Cotton 35% PolyesterGSM: 250 (Medium Weight Fabric)Colour: Multi
Happy New Year! (2010) sachets The month of January always has me pondering what I hope to accomplish in the coming twelve months and after several rough drafts, I’ve finalized my official Annual Crafty/Vintage To-Do List for 2013. (2008) barkcloth pillow It’s sew very short. (2009) banner Just one little word, in fact. (2010) yo-yos & feedsack quilt pillow You’ve heard it here before but this year … (2010) sachets I. Mean. It. (2008) vintage tablecloth pillow I really do. (2010) appliqued tea towels (2009) tatting & doily towel Sew there you have it. (2007) vintage tablecloth pillow PS Did you watch Downton Abbey last night?! Sew good!
Beautiful pre-quilted cotton fabrics ideal jackets, coats etc. Printed or plain fabrics sold by the metre. 10% Off first order with newsletter sign up.
Sometimes you need to make a quilt in just three colours. Instead of making lots of decisions for each block, spending time pondering fabric options, and learning from the experience, you need to just make one block over and over again. That is exactly what I needed for this Ice Cream Soda Quilt.
Well, upper bust. I know this is going to sound strange, and perhaps I spend way too much time pondering the fit of the bust to arm, but I've been asked a bit about how to pick a sleeve when you are altering a garment, or if you want to change the sleeve on something new that you are making. Here is what I've concluded. It all is in the boobs. For me, when I pick a sleeve, I want one that will give me a good range of motion. To determine that, its about the upper bust/arm pit ratio and how much of you actually fills that area. Sure, we all know to adjust this when we are making a garment, but also, if you are adding a different sleeve to a garment, you will also need to take into consideration the armscye with the new sleeve. That's why some sleeve patterns came with mockup bodice pieces to test the sleeve, which I think was brilliant. Match that up to the bodice of what you want to add the sleeve to and you're golden. But a lot of times that's not the case, and a lot of times if you are adding a sleeve, you don't take this measurements into consideration. I know I didn't. This I'm sure we all know. I really, really hope these diagrams make since. Selecting the sleeve I find depends on the fullness of your upper bust. Compared to my frame, my upper bust should be fuller, but no, it's all down low, in my full bust, so I often have to compensate sleeves and the front (and sometimes back) of the bodice of a garment with a more narrow armhole, or a fuller sleeve. I've tried bust darts but it's too difficult a fit and such a pain so I just go for a different sleeve. A cap sleeve I find works best with the fullest bust. It gives ample room in the arm, and the top of the sleeve just hangs on the center of the top of the shoulder. Often this is a good fit for suits. Here are some samples. This sleeves requires a longer shoulder seam, so make sure you adjust properly for that. The darted sleeve is the one that fits me the best. My bust is kinda square, so the side angles don't lend too well to the cap sleeve. I get too much gaping because the armscye is too wide.. Also, I have mega square shoulders, so a darted sleeve cups over my arm and shoulder for a more molded fit. I like this look with dresses and even some suits. The last sleeve, the puff sleeve I think works best with a smaller bust or a much fuller arm. It sits high over the shoulder, but rarely has a lot of form to it, because of the organic gathers at the top of the shoulder. Puff sleeves are not my look, I think I'm too busty, but they can be awesome on the right frame. I don't think you have to be youthful per se to wear them, but you do have to own that look. I also find them the easiest to add to a garment. Just simple gathers. This sleeve can work at pretty much any length of the shoulder, but think it looks the most flattering higher up. So there you go. I so hope this post made since. I had a hart time articulating it. In any account, everyone have a super saturday!
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Alice Caroline Exclusive Liberty. Designed by Alice Caroline in collaboration with the Liberty design team. A beautiful selection of Liberty Tana Lawn.
Soft but durable, this lyocell and cotton blend drill is perfect for summer weight pants, jumpsuits and overalls. It has a gently washed appearance and feel, but enough structure to work for more tailored projects. The top surface has a delicate twill weave. It's a tough and high-strength fabric that is still soft and very comfortable to wear. Suitable for: Structured Dresses and Skirts, Pants and Shorts, Jackets, Overalls and Jumpsuits, Bags etc. Colour: Navy Matching Gütermann Thread: 387 Fabric Composition: 46% Cotton & 54% Lyocell Width: ~142cm Weight: 228 gms (medium weight) Stretch: none Care: Wash at 30deg. C - warm iron Shrinkage: 5~7% Pattern suggestions: see available patterns below. Country of Origin: South Korea
Sometimes you need to make a quilt in just three colours. Instead of making lots of decisions for each block, spending time pondering fabric options, and learning from the experience, you need to just make one block over and over again. That is exactly what I needed for this Ice Cream Soda Quilt.
Sometimes you need to make a quilt in just three colours. Instead of making lots of decisions for each block, spending time pondering fabric options, and learning from the experience, you need to just make one block over and over again. That is exactly what I needed for this Ice Cream Soda Quilt.
A blog about quilting and a newbie quilter's journey.
Don't you love it when abstract ideas meet inspiration? Well that's how this project came about. I'd been pondering about making a little pair of knicker-bocker-type pants for Hannah that were based on a little pair of gorgeous Sprout-brand pants both my girls wore when they were babies. I loved them, and was so sad when I had to finally admit they were too small, and take them out of Hannah's draw. They were lacey and girly and just plain cute! I just knew I needed to make a pair in a bigger size, but I couldn't choose a fabric, and the design just hadn't come together in my mind. Then, one day when I was perusing blog-land, I came across this adorable free pattern by CINO for a cross-stitch fox t-shirt. And in that instant, this whole project came together. I knew I had to make this little fox top, and that I had finally made up my mind on the fabric for those pants. It was time to cut into my stashed fox fabric (you might have seen me previewing it on Instagram and Facebook) ... and here's how the little outfit turned out! I love this little outfit almost as much as I loved those original little baby-pants, and we've had some great comments from people when Hannah's worn this outfit too. My favourite was from a school mum who knows I sew, and asked if I made this outfit, then went on to say that she loves my handmade stuff because it's just so different from anything you can buy in the shops ... for me that's pretty much the highest compliment a crafty Mummy can receive, and what makes that even better is when my kids ask to wear their Mummy-made clothes. Melts my creative heart, and I'm determined to squeeze as much into these years where they love what I make, before I suddenly become the dorkiest, most uncool, embarrassing person in the world to them and they just can't wait to go shopping to buy the exact same clothes as their friends ... dreading that day, huh! Anyway, you can find the pattern for this little fox cross-stitch here, and this was lots of fun ... a 1-evening job and I just used a store-bought tank top, and stitched whilst watching TV. Super-effective! And if you want to make your own Foxy-Loxy Lacey Pants, with their little lacey pockets of cuteness, this is for you ... You Need: - 1/2 metre / yard fabric ... this is a printed cotton poplin (1/2 metre was sufficient fabric for Hannah's size 4 pants) - Shorts pattern, or a pair of short / pants that fit to make your own pattern (I used the Kids Shorts Pattern by Made, which is my go-to shorts pattern, but you could always draft your own pattern very simply like I did here). - 1 metre / yard lace or your favourite trim - 1 yard 1/4" elastic for the waist and legs. - The usual: Sewing machine, overlocker / serger (if you have one), coordinating thread, scissors And here's how I did it: 1. Measure your munchkin from their waist to just below just below their knee, and add 2 inches, then take your shorts pattern, and cut the front and back pieces out, extending the length to your measurement +1" for the hem. So, for Hannah, her measurement waist to below-knee was 16". Her pattern pieces therefore measure 17". 2. Grab a scrap of paper, and draw a pocket pattern as per the one below (you could make it a little bigger if you're making a much bigger size) ... then cut out the pocket pattern and use it to cut two pockets from your fabric like so ... you might like to fussy-cut to make a feature of your fabric if you're using a cute one like these foxes. I decided on a sleeping fox and a sitting fox ... 3. Finish the edges of your pocket pieces with either an overlocker / serger or using a zig-zag stitch to stop the pockets fraying on the inside. The using your iron, press the top edge to the wrong side by 1/2" and the other 4 sides by 1/4" like so ... 4. Flip your pockets over the the right side, and attach a piece of lace to the upper edge, using a single row of stitching at the top of the lace. This will sew down the top fold at the same time. Press the over-lapping edges of the lace to the wrong sides of the pockets. 5. Grab the back pieces of your pants, and lay them flat on the table, with the curved edges in the middle like so. Then arrange the pockets in the mid-upper section, making sure they are level with each other so you have level pockets in the end. Pin the pockets in place, then topstitch them around the sides and bottom, approximately 1/8" from the edge, and ensuring the folded under edges are tucked under. It's also a good idea to back-stitch at the beginning and end to give the pockets extra strength. 6. Now you can assemble your pants as per the pattern instructions ... if you've drafted your own pattern, you simply sew the two back pieces right-sides-together at the top curved seam, then the same with the front pieces. Attach the front to the back right-sides together at the inner-leg seam. Then, right-sides-together sew the 2 side-seams, and you'll end up with assembled pants like this ... 7. Now for the waist ... press the top edge to the wrong side by 1/4", then fold over another 1" and pin in place. Starting at the back seam, sew the waist-band down as close to the edge as possible, making sure you leave a 1" gap at the end of your stitch-line to allow space for threading your elastic. Then, again starting at the back seam, sew a second row of stitching 1/4" from the top edge of the pants to make your top ruffle. 8. Using a safety-pin, thread your waist elastic through, overlap by 1/2" and sew ends together... ... You can then stitch across the gap to enclose the elastic. 9. Repeat this same process with both leg hems, but before threading your elastic ... 10. Pin and sew in place your leg lace/trim approximately 2-3" from the bottom of the hem. If your using a less-busy fabric, you could even do 2 or 3 rows of lace at the base of the legs ... cuteness plus!! 11. Then you can insert a length of elastic into each leg which is long enough to comfortably go around your child's calf ... Hannah's leg elastics were 10". ... you now have a cute little pair of knicker-bockers that look like this ... ... and this ... ... and coupled with her fox top, like this ... ... and when she's about to jump of the garden wall, they look like this! These are really comfy versatile little pair of pants that are great for playing and pre-school and generally Hannah-ing around. I can see a few more pairs of these in Hannah's future! Hope you like them too!
Sometimes you need to make a quilt in just three colours. Instead of making lots of decisions for each block, spending time pondering fabric options, and learning from the experience, you need to just make one block over and over again. That is exactly what I needed for this Ice Cream Soda Quilt.
Sometimes you need to make a quilt in just three colours. Instead of making lots of decisions for each block, spending time pondering fabric options, and learning from the experience, you need to just make one block over and over again. That is exactly what I needed for this Ice Cream Soda Quilt.
Sometimes you need to make a quilt in just three colours. Instead of making lots of decisions for each block, spending time pondering fabric options, and learning from the experience, you need to just make one block over and over again. That is exactly what I needed for this Ice Cream Soda Quilt.
Meet our latest summer pattern – the Tamiko Pant! This pull-on pant features an elasticized waist and stitched-down side pockets. The special design feature is a lower leg panel that tapers inwards at the hem and is finished with a...
Sometimes you need to make a quilt in just three colours. Instead of making lots of decisions for each block, spending time pondering fabric options, and learning from the experience, you need to just make one block over and over again. That is exactly what I needed for this Ice Cream Soda Quilt.
Imogen is a delightful printed cotton poplin with a check design (approx. 12mm wide) in emerald green, charcoal and marigold yellow against a lavender base cloth. Light and crisp, it's the perfect cotton to infuse relaxed resortwear into your wardrobe. Completely opaque it's ideal for garments that hold structure such as shirts, dresses, skirts, boxer shorts and even striking bedwear. Composition: 100% Cotton Width: 150cm wide Weight: 115GSM Origin: Made in Korea Care: Machine washable You can order a swatch here, and a thread match here. For any further enquiries, please get in touch here.
As I continue to snip tiny slits into two sides of each square, I’ve been pondering the visual impact and wondering how I can refine it. At first I was trying to cut through all the layers bu…
DOWNLOAD LINK AT THE END OF THE POST The pattern I am introducing today will be a bit of a challenge to beginner sewists, because it comes with princess seams. I have been pondering about posting this advanced pattern as I know many of you are new to sewing, but I figure if you are not confident in working on a more complex project, you can always save it for later when you master your skills. This dress features a sexy V neckline, a pencil silhouette and mermaid fluted hem. I love mermaid dresses – look how it compliments your curves! Become a head turner in a party in this gorgeous Tisha dress! Let’s look at it in different prints and colors: Front and back view This red polka dot print reminds me of one of Dolce and Gabbana designs in their collection a few years ago. Brocade is a great choice for this design. It also goes well with polka dot prints. As usual, my pattern is made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL, so you will find yourself a suitable size. You can also lengthen or shorten the hemline to get your desired length – you can even make a maxi skirt from this pattern. The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE. You can print this using your home printer and A4/Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth! Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit. SEWING INSTRUCTION You will need Fabric of your choiceInvisible zipperScissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pinsSewing machine/Serger or needle and threadPrinted pattern What fabric can be used for this project? This design is made for woven fabric, but you can make it with knitted fabric with less stretchiness. I find that brocade with its special texture is a great choice of fabric for this pattern. How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? To be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold. For this pattern, you will need to use a sewing machine that has the function to sew stretch fabric (zig zag stitch for example), or use a serger which is designed to sew stretch fabric nicely. Cutting instruction: After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this image: You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern size. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam. Fabric will be cut into following pieces: Center Front Bodice: cut 2Side Front Bodice: cut 2Center Back Bodice: cut 2Side Back Bodice: cut 2Center Front Skirt: cut 2Side Back Skirt: cut 2Center Back Skirt: cut 2Side Front Skirt: cut 2Neckline Binding: cut 1 on biasArmhole Binding: cut 2 on bias Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats etc. from the pattern pieces onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up. It is extremely important in this case as the princess seam requires a lot of attention. Sewing instruction: 1. Serge/zig zag stitch the raw edge to prevent fabric from unraveling. 2. Place one Center Front Bodice and its corresponding Side Front Bodice right side facing, matching the notches, pin and sew to join. Do the same with the other side. 3. Place two front bodice pieces right side facing. Pin and sew to get the Front Bodice. 4. Place one Center Back Bodice and its corresponding Side Back Bodice right side facing, matching the notches, pin and sew to join. Do the same with the other side. 5. Place the Front Bodice and one piece of Back Bodice right side facing. Pin and sew the shoulder seam and side seams. You get the Bodice piece. 6. Use similar method in previous steps to get the Skirt piece. 7. Place Bodice and Skirt pieces right side facing. Make sure to match all the seams on the Bodice and Skirt. Pin and sew to join and get the Main Garment. 8. Attach invisible zipper to the back of the garment and finish the back center seam. 9. Use bias binding to finish the neckline and armholes. 10. Hem the garment and give it a good iron. And here is the download link: TISHA MERMAID DRESS (SIZE XXS-5XL) Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns Tiana
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