So this one of the many projects I have been working on this last week... I found some pretty wooden plaque thing-a-ma-jigs at Michaels for $1.99 each and the scrapbook paper was on sale for 25 cents a sheet. I cut out the paper after I rubbed the edges against the paper to get the form of the plaque... I then Modge-Podged it up! Then after smoothing out the bubbles I take my silhouettes that I traced and cut out of black cardstock paper and placed them where I wanted them and Modge-Podged some more... I love Modge-Podge... I love saying Modge-Podge. hee hee Smooth out as much bubbles as you can but don't fuss over too much because it is paper you are working with... it will tear. Here is my completed project::: I am also using the same technique to make silhouettes of my kids. One down, one to go. I am including some of my silhouette photos for you! Enjoy! Here are a couple of the silhouettes that I did on photoshop. The Scissors I traced from my own scissors and the needle and thread I drew free hand...as well as the letters. So the only one I have right now that I actually did on photoshop is the Dressform. But here are the ones I have =D ::::: Also, click on the photo below to go to a tutorial on how to make silhouettes in photoshop. This is where I learned to do it =D

Any day that I get to make a zipper pouch is a great day, so I'm very excited to share this fun project using some very handy tools! This post is sponsored by Clover, who provided the tools featured in this tutorial, and also contains affiliate links. This is a fantastic project for orphan quilt blocks or improvisational patchwork. I love using metal zippers on these pouches since they have larger holes on the pulls—perfect for adding tassels! To make these pouches I used Clover's large Tassel Maker and the Ultimate Quilt 'n Stitch Presser Foot, which lets you quilt lines from 3/8" to 3" apart. This presser foot made the quilting go so quickly! It was designed for low shank machines (see this post for information about the foot, and see this post to help determine if you have a low or high shank) so be sure to check to make sure that it will fit your machine. The tassel maker, in addition to coming in super cute colors, is very easy to use; it only takes a couple of minutes to make each tassel! Let's make some pouches! Quilted Tassel Pouch Tutorial Finished pouch measures 8" x 5-1/2" Materials (2) Patchwork panels a little larger than 9" x 6" (2) Quilting cotton lining pieces* 9" x 5-3/4" (2) Batting rectangles, slightly larger than the patchwork panels (I used needle punched cotton batting) Thread (1) 8" metal zipper with donut pull (like these; measure the actual zipper part only, do not include the fabric on the ends) (1) Skein DMC Pearl Cotton embroidery thread; or one skein of each color that you will use *Note: the lining is intentionally shorter than the outer panels so it will nest more neatly in the pouch! Tools Sewing machine and standard sewing/quilting supplies Zipper foot Erasable fabric pen Ultimate Quilt 'n Stitch Presser Foot Water soluble fabric glue pen Large Tassel Maker Pouch Instructions 1. Center a patchwork panel on top of the batting, right side up, and press. Mark a 45 degree line with a fabric pen. Sew on the first line, then continue quilting lines 5/8" apart to cover the panel. Mark a 45 degree line in the opposite direction and continue quilting lines 5/8" apart. Repeat for the other panel. Trim the panels to 9" W x 6" H. 2. Press back the ends of the zipper as shown and sew in place, very close to the edge. 3. Place the front of the pouch right side up. Center the zipper on top of the panel, zipper pull facing down and closing to the left side. Line up the top edges and use fabric glue to affix the top edge of the zipper to the panel. Press with a warm iron until the glue is dry. 4. Place a lining piece on top of the zipper, right side down. Align the top and side edges with the panel and clip in place. 5. Using a zipper foot, sew across the top edge with a 1/4" seam allowance. Then fold the exterior panel and lining away from the zipper and press. 6. Place the second patchwork panel right side up. Place the first panel on top, right sides together and zipper at the top. Align the sides of the panels and use fabric glue to affix the zipper as you did in step 3. Place the other lining piece right side down and clip everything together along the top edge. Sew along this edge with a 1/4" seam allowance, then press the lining and panel away from the zipper. 7. Topstitch both sides of the zipper. Sew through both the outer panel and lining fabrics. Keep the lining smooth by gently pulling it away from the zipper while you sew. 8. Open the zipper 2/3 of the way. Fold the pouch in half, outer sides together, lining facing outward. Match the top of the panels next to the zipper so the fabric is even and tack together next to the edge. Repeat on other side of the zipper. 9.Match the exterior pieces right sides together and the lining pieces right sides together, and pin. IMPORTANT: Place the zipper on the lining side! 10. Triple stitch (also known as a stretch stitch) around the pouch with a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving a 3-1/2” section on one side of the lining open. I used the zipper foot when sewing next to the zipper, and a regular foot for the rest of the way around the pouch. Make sure there is some space between the seam and the closed end of the zipper so it will turn neatly. Clip the corners of the lining and the pouch exterior. 11. Turn the pouch right side out through the opening and use a chopstick or turning tool to gently push the corners out. Press the lining opening edges inward, then sew the lining closed. 12. Put the lining back into the pouch and press. Tassel Instructions Before wrapping the tassel, cut the following three pieces: (1) 10" length of twine for hanger (I used homemade twine) (1) 10" length of matching pearl cotton thread for tying the center of the tassel (1) 20" length of contrasting pearl cotton thread for wrapping the tassel head 1. Secure one end of the pearl cotton under the notch on the side of the large tassel maker (I used the smallest setting), then wrap the thread around the center of the bars 35 times (a little less than half the skein). Secure the end of the thread under the notch on the other side and trim. 2. Fold the hanger twine in half and the ends into a secure knot about 1-1/2" from the bend, Then trim the ends fairly short. Insert the knot all the way through the center of the wrapped thread, with the knot slightly more than 1/2 of the way down from the top bar. 3. Tie a tight and secure knot around the center of the wrapped thread with the 10" piece of matching thread, ABOVE the knot in your hanger, placing the knot on the underside, next to the hanger knot. 4. Trim the wrapped thread along the top and bottom of the tassel maker with sharp shears. Allow the strands to drape around the hanger. 5. Make a loop with your 20" length of contrasting thread, then tightly wrap the head of the tassel (I wrapped it about 8-9 times), insert the end through the loop, and pull both ends until the loop disappears under the wrapping and feels firmly in place. Trim the ends of the wrapped thread. 6. Trim the ends of the tassel with sharp shears so the strands are even. 7. Place the tassel hanger through the hole in the zipper pull, then thread the tassel through the loop. I hope you have fun stitching up your own quilted tassel pouches, please let me know if you have any questions below! Happy Stitching, Kim

Have you been wanting to sew for yourself or another woman/girl in your life? I often hear that "there are no good patterns for women" but that's just not true! So many great independent designers are releasing wonderful patterns for all skills. If you want to sew for women check out these great sewing patterns you'll love.

Friday Flair Features

Any day that I get to make a zipper pouch is a great day, so I'm very excited to share this fun project using some very handy tools! This post is sponsored by Clover, who provided the tools featured in this tutorial, and also contains affiliate links. This is a fantastic project for orphan quilt blocks or improvisational patchwork. I love using metal zippers on these pouches since they have larger holes on the pulls—perfect for adding tassels! To make these pouches I used Clover's large Tassel Maker and the Ultimate Quilt 'n Stitch Presser Foot, which lets you quilt lines from 3/8" to 3" apart. This presser foot made the quilting go so quickly! It was designed for low shank machines (see this post for information about the foot, and see this post to help determine if you have a low or high shank) so be sure to check to make sure that it will fit your machine. The tassel maker, in addition to coming in super cute colors, is very easy to use; it only takes a couple of minutes to make each tassel! Let's make some pouches! Quilted Tassel Pouch Tutorial Finished pouch measures 8" x 5-1/2" Materials (2) Patchwork panels a little larger than 9" x 6" (2) Quilting cotton lining pieces* 9" x 5-3/4" (2) Batting rectangles, slightly larger than the patchwork panels (I used needle punched cotton batting) Thread (1) 8" metal zipper with donut pull (like these; measure the actual zipper part only, do not include the fabric on the ends) (1) Skein DMC Pearl Cotton embroidery thread; or one skein of each color that you will use *Note: the lining is intentionally shorter than the outer panels so it will nest more neatly in the pouch! Tools Sewing machine and standard sewing/quilting supplies Zipper foot Erasable fabric pen Ultimate Quilt 'n Stitch Presser Foot Water soluble fabric glue pen Large Tassel Maker Pouch Instructions 1. Center a patchwork panel on top of the batting, right side up, and press. Mark a 45 degree line with a fabric pen. Sew on the first line, then continue quilting lines 5/8" apart to cover the panel. Mark a 45 degree line in the opposite direction and continue quilting lines 5/8" apart. Repeat for the other panel. Trim the panels to 9" W x 6" H. 2. Press back the ends of the zipper as shown and sew in place, very close to the edge. 3. Place the front of the pouch right side up. Center the zipper on top of the panel, zipper pull facing down and closing to the left side. Line up the top edges and use fabric glue to affix the top edge of the zipper to the panel. Press with a warm iron until the glue is dry. 4. Place a lining piece on top of the zipper, right side down. Align the top and side edges with the panel and clip in place. 5. Using a zipper foot, sew across the top edge with a 1/4" seam allowance. Then fold the exterior panel and lining away from the zipper and press. 6. Place the second patchwork panel right side up. Place the first panel on top, right sides together and zipper at the top. Align the sides of the panels and use fabric glue to affix the zipper as you did in step 3. Place the other lining piece right side down and clip everything together along the top edge. Sew along this edge with a 1/4" seam allowance, then press the lining and panel away from the zipper. 7. Topstitch both sides of the zipper. Sew through both the outer panel and lining fabrics. Keep the lining smooth by gently pulling it away from the zipper while you sew. 8. Open the zipper 2/3 of the way. Fold the pouch in half, outer sides together, lining facing outward. Match the top of the panels next to the zipper so the fabric is even and tack together next to the edge. Repeat on other side of the zipper. 9.Match the exterior pieces right sides together and the lining pieces right sides together, and pin. IMPORTANT: Place the zipper on the lining side! 10. Triple stitch (also known as a stretch stitch) around the pouch with a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving a 3-1/2” section on one side of the lining open. I used the zipper foot when sewing next to the zipper, and a regular foot for the rest of the way around the pouch. Make sure there is some space between the seam and the closed end of the zipper so it will turn neatly. Clip the corners of the lining and the pouch exterior. 11. Turn the pouch right side out through the opening and use a chopstick or turning tool to gently push the corners out. Press the lining opening edges inward, then sew the lining closed. 12. Put the lining back into the pouch and press. Tassel Instructions Before wrapping the tassel, cut the following three pieces: (1) 10" length of twine for hanger (I used homemade twine) (1) 10" length of matching pearl cotton thread for tying the center of the tassel (1) 20" length of contrasting pearl cotton thread for wrapping the tassel head 1. Secure one end of the pearl cotton under the notch on the side of the large tassel maker (I used the smallest setting), then wrap the thread around the center of the bars 35 times (a little less than half the skein). Secure the end of the thread under the notch on the other side and trim. 2. Fold the hanger twine in half and the ends into a secure knot about 1-1/2" from the bend, Then trim the ends fairly short. Insert the knot all the way through the center of the wrapped thread, with the knot slightly more than 1/2 of the way down from the top bar. 3. Tie a tight and secure knot around the center of the wrapped thread with the 10" piece of matching thread, ABOVE the knot in your hanger, placing the knot on the underside, next to the hanger knot. 4. Trim the wrapped thread along the top and bottom of the tassel maker with sharp shears. Allow the strands to drape around the hanger. 5. Make a loop with your 20" length of contrasting thread, then tightly wrap the head of the tassel (I wrapped it about 8-9 times), insert the end through the loop, and pull both ends until the loop disappears under the wrapping and feels firmly in place. Trim the ends of the wrapped thread. 6. Trim the ends of the tassel with sharp shears so the strands are even. 7. Place the tassel hanger through the hole in the zipper pull, then thread the tassel through the loop. I hope you have fun stitching up your own quilted tassel pouches, please let me know if you have any questions below! Happy Stitching, Kim

Op Facebook kwam op maandag een schitterende sjaal voorbij, op slag verliefd, met de vraag hoe die te maken. Dan kan ik het niet laten om hem gelijk te zoeken, hihi. Het is een blog in het Duits (klik hier), welke perfect alles uitlegt. Maar omdat niet iedereen Duits kan, of hun telefoon het vertaald, hier mijn korte Nederlandse versie van de Lutte sjaal. Alles is inclusief naadwaarde van 1 cm. Benodigdheden Stof voor de buitenkant: Tricot, sweater, alles wat je mooi vind. Hoogte 50 x Lengte 1,35/ 1,40/ 1,50 (beetje afhankelijk van je stofbreedte en hoe strak je hem wilt) Stof voor de buitenkant: Fleece, borg, elke knuffelbare stof. Zelfde maat als de buitenkant Kant en klare houtje touwtje Als je die niet hebt, touw, knoop en rest stukje (nep) leer. Je neemt de stof die je aan de buitenkant wilt, daarop ga je in de bovenste hoeken de houtje touwtjes bevestigen, 4 cm uit de punt. Doe dit ook met de andere helft van bet houtje touwtje. Speld dan de 2 Lappen met de goede zijden op elkaar en stik op 1 cm. Laat aan de bovenzijde, in het midden een keergat. Keer de sjaal en sluit het keergat met een blinde steek. Daarna, genieten van je heerlijke sjaal.

I'm so nervous but so happy to share with you, sweet crafty friends, that my book, Retro Mama Scrap Happy Sewing , published with David an...

I know exactly what you were just thinking: 'I wonder if vegbee could show me exactly how to make a dashiki?' Isn't it freaky how intuitive I am with these things? Yearn no longer! My daughter's preschool is doing an Africa theme over the next few months, and her teacher asked if I could make up a few garments to support their theme. So, I did. One of the things I like to do when I learn how to make something new is to attempt spread the method about, somewhat like influenza. The basic shape of a dashiki is an A-line with wide bell shaped sleeves. Since unstretchy woven material is used (cotton, linen, or such), the neck has a slit in it vertically on the front to allow the head to actually get in. I made my own pattern by starting with four measurements: A = the desire arm length measure from neck down arm B = armhole width circumference of the upper arm multiplied by 0.75 [or 3/4 of your upper arm measurement] C = chest width chest circumference plus 5" for a child or 10" for an adult, then divided by 4 D = desired length measure from back of neck down To begin, find yourself a rectangular piece of paper in the same dimensions of your A x D. The following picture shows how to apply your measurements to create a pattern piece that is to be cut along length-wise folded fabric: If you mark the point where measurements B and C connect, then you can draw a gentle A-line out from that mark for the bodice, and a bell type curve for the sleeve. To create the neckline DO NOT WING IT. A guessimated neckline is usually too big, particularly over the shoulders. Trust me on this: I've made this mistake so many times its embarrassing. Instead, there are two good methods I use frequently. One, get yourself a well fitting shirt of woven material from your closet and trace the neckline. Two, find yourself a curve square (also called a french curve), like so: Marked on the square is the actual part of the curve that is typically used as a neckline curve by people who actually know what they are doing (how I envy them). The curve square will also do arm hole curves and all sorts of standardized measurements for our curvy bodies. Since I figured out how they work, I use mine all the time. If you scroll back up to the picture with the main pattern piece, you'll notice a smaller sickle shaped piece just above it. That is the facing pattern piece for the neckline. To make one, trace your neckline curve, and make another curve above 1 1/2" below. Add a sticky down yoke bit (stop me if I'm getting too technical) about 3" long to support the slit in the neckline and you are off and running. Cut two dashiki pieces on a length-wise fold from your newly minted pattern. Note: Your pattern does not include hem or seam allowances, you must add them when cutting. Cut two neckline interfacing pieces from the same material. Add seam allowances to the end of the curve. Since we do not actually need two sticky down yoke things, cut off one of the dingles on one piece to serve as the facing on the back of the neck. Place the two neckline facing pieces right sides together and stitch at the top of the curves like so:Finish the outside edge of the neckline facing with a zig zag stitch or a serger. (The inside edge we will be sewing to the dashiki so don't worry about it.) To sew the dashiki, put the two pieces right sides together and stitch along the top of the shoulders and along both sides, like so:Hem the bottom of the dashiki and the arm openings. To sew on the neck facing, align the shoulder seams with the seams on the facing right sides together. Pin the whole thing in place. Using chalk or washable marker, draw a line down the centre of the sticky down part from the neck to about 1/2" from the bottom. This is to be the place where we will slit open the neckline.Stitch around the neckline, joining the dashiki and facing. When you encounter your marked line, stitch down one side of the line coming to a point at the end and then (with your needle in the fabric) lift the presser foot to swivel the fabric to stitch back up the other side of the line. Try to make your stitches only 1/8" or less away from your first line going down.A word of caution. Do not back stitch or bunch up your stitches at the point. The less stitching in the area, the nicer the point will be in your opening. Cut your fabric from the neckline to as far as you can go along your marked line. Be very careful not to cut your stitches.Clip the corners at the top of the neckline slit and turn the facing inside the dashiki, wrong sides together. Press the neck line flat. Top stitch around the neckline at about 1/8". And that is that. ******************************************************* This is a free tutorial and I encourage you to use the information in any way you need to (check the disclaimer at the bottom of the page). If it works for you, please consider supporting my etsy shop by purchasing a Little Print Design pattern or toss a dollar or two in my paypal to show appreciation and to encourage me to offer up even more quality patterns and tutorials. Thank you! Questions about the Donation? FAQ here.

Nothing says "hug me!" better than an octopus with eight soft and squishy arms. Be sure to try out your favourite octopus knitting pattern!

Pupazzi dallo stile rètro e altre mille magiche creazioni rigorosamente handmade.

This is the third in the year-long series where we will demystify dressmaking patterns. We are going to look at the line drawings to work out what features your pattern has.

Learn how to make a bikini with these 18 free bikini sewing patterns for beginners. Each bikini sewing pattern comes with easy instructions and a PDF guide. This summer season is the perfect time for you to experiment with these free bikini sewing patterns and make something that would fit and flatter your body perfectly! Women's bodies change throughout their lives – when they are a teenager, after getting on birth control pills, giving birth, and much more. However, that shouldn't ever stop you from feeling your best at the beach and having fun! All you need to do is

This designer has made an absolutely fabulous Cargo Duffle Bag. Doesn't it look fantastic? And the designer has very kindly made it as a free pattern via the

Happy Wednesday. This is a quick post to let you know the Good Night Nightie I designed for Stitch Beautiful Bedrooms is available as a free download! You can find it [here] at the Sew Mama Sew Site. I absolutely love mine and wear it often - so perfect for warm summer nights! The fabric I used is a voile from Little Lisette which is now out of print but would be perfect in a lawn or lightweight silk. If you like the cover pic - I designed that as well : ) it is a perfect lightweight robe with a pretty ruffle detail, shirred waist and inside tie. The book has wonderful projects for your bedroom, from slippers and eye masks to quilts and a beautiful duvet set! Enjoy!!! xo Charise

I made another quiet book! Yay! Here's the story. Several weeks ago, a friend of mine came over with her son Henrik who is just a few mo...

Explore the enchanting world of Cottagecore crochet with our curated list of 50 easy project ideas and free patterns.

Living in Australia, we never get to experience that traditional cold and snowy Christmas enjoyed by our Northern Hemisphere friends. Perhaps that's wh ...

I'm hosting a little pin cushion swap via the Molly and Mama Facebook Page. It's to celebrate the fourth anniversary of my little biz (which is a ...

I'm happy to share this free pattern for today that I've made a few times now- a cute striped quilted hot pad. (This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission, at no extra cost to you, if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.) I've made one of these before, as well as other simple patchwork hot pads. Today's version was a gift for a friend, so I tried to match the vibe of her living room with the colors, and chose a backing that I knew she would appreciate. Fabric requirements: scrap strips ranging in length and width 9" square regular batting 9" square Insul Brite 9" square backing fabric 2.5" x WOF binding fabric Steps: (I've shown this whole process on IG stories if you like videos better than words!) 1. Start with a 9" square of scrap batting. I followed this tutorial to sew the fabric in place, but on a piece of batting instead of paper. 2. Add some hand stitching on a few of the rows. 3. Spray baste the strip block and batting to an additional layer of Insul Brite, or heat resistant batting. Spray baste a 9" square of backing fabric to the back side of that. Your quilt sandwich will layer as follows: strip block batting Insul Brite backing 4. Using an erasable pen and walking foot, quilt some additional lines through several of the stripes to attach it to the backing and add texture. Trim it up to 8.5" square. 5. Attach binding, keeping the seam allowance a tad narrower than usual to make room for the double layer of batting. (You need just one 2.5" x WOF strip.) 6. Using a 2.5" x 5.5" strip of fabric, press a double fold and topstitch along both edges. Fold into a loop and zig zag stitch to the corner of the hot pad. Sew a button over the raw edges. I have a little stash of cute buttons that I've been collecting over the years. This one is similar to these Flower Buttons, and I also found some cute Polka Dot Buttons, and Patterned Wood Buttons. I would love to own all of them :) I adore buttons but don't use them often since I don't make clothes. Yet! Here are some other hot pads patterns I've made for reference: "Pretty Little Hotpad" pattern by Amy Sinibaldi. Donuts 1 & 2 by Pen and Paper Patterns. I can't seem to find this one anymore. I still use this Tasha Noel hot pad with rounded corners and dense quilting. I can't think of many things more satisfying to make. A quick, colorful bit of therapy! I hope you enjoy is as much as I did. I hope to make a few more before Christmas!

It's confessional time. I finished this flimsy 3 years ago. True story. Made it with some Mama Said Sew charm packs and really enjoyed the whole disappearing four patch process. But let's not dwell on the fact that this languished for three years. Let's just celebrate that it's done! Backed in grey brushed cotton, and quilted all over in loopy swirls. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. And, as always, I LOVE the gingham binding! Checking her off the 1QFAL list.

What a lovely unique wall hanging decor for your crafting /sewing room or a perfect gift to give for dearest ones like Grandma/Nana/Mom/Mama .... Or for your craft buddies, birthday, wedding, housewarming , or any holidays . Originally designed and handcrafted with love and care in my studio in Oregon PRODUCT DETAILS : - Sewing Room Sign AND 6 ornaments : Scissors/thread/safety pin/button/iron/hanger - Light weight 12in W x 24in H ( measures from top of the sewing machine to the bottom of the sewing ornaments ) - Can be painted in metallic gold at extra cost. The Unpainted sign will come right off the laser and usually have some discoloration and burn marks/smell . HARDWARE: We do not include hardware ! You can use double sided tape ( 1lb) or mini nails as i used in my photos shown . If you have any questions/concerns , please message me . Thank you for shopping with Kidsfunland. Thank you ! Sewing room crafting Home Decor Collection Wooden Home and Event Decor Wall Art sewing Sign sewing Signage Wood Signs Wedding Decor scissors thread Birthday Gift for Mom/ Grandma / Sister Or Bestfriend, Sewing Gifts , Mom Gifts, Grandma Gift, Unique Wood Sewing sign decor 3D wall art

My fabulous friend Andie* of Red Roving made this amazing felt pocket sloth and totally said I could share it with you guys. Clearly everyone needs at least one pocket sloth in their lives. Yo…

This stitch is beautiful, made by weaving over the Double Herringbone stitch with another thread of same or different color. Interlaced Herringbone Stitch forms one of the main stitches for two traditional embroideries called the Kutch Work and...

How to Make a Reversible Drawstring Bag. DIY Pattern & Tutorial

Hello Everyone, Now I can let the cat out of the bag and share the news about the 365 pounds of patterns that we shipped off last week to.........drum roll.......Keepsake Quilting! Their next catalog has two of my patterns, Country Charmer and Prairie Flower. Both are offered as kits too. Several months ago I was approached by Robert Kaufman fabrics to inquire about them remaking County Charmer in their Holiday Flourish Christmas fabric line. I couldn't say "YES" fast enough! To put the icing on the cake, I didn't have to make the quilt.....or quilt the quilt. I don't know who made it, but I do know that it was beautifully machine quilted by Darla Padilla who just happens to live in the same town as me. Small world.  Keepsake is offering Country Charmer as a kit and also only the pattern. I have a bone of contention with Keepsake that no attribution was given to me as the designer of the quilt. I sent off an email to see if the online catalog could be fixed. I'm sure the paper catalogs have been printed and mailed out by now. I have an extensive tutorial HERE on my blog which shows you how to make this block step by step. Next up is Prairie Flower. I was driving down to Turlock to teach a class when I saw this street sign. U-turn! I went back and snapped a picture.   Prairie Flower is also offered as a kit or an individual pattern. This quilt is made with Conestoga Crossing fabric by Pam Buda for Marcus Fabrics.  This quilt is going on the bed in Autumn and will stay on through the Holidays. That is when it's not out traveling around the countryside. It is my understanding that Keepsake rents a house for each photo shoot. I love the way they displayed both of my quilts. Now I have to get my head out of the clouds, and my feet back on solid ground, and start packing and drive up to Santa Rosa for a guild lecture tonight to the Moonlight Quilters of Sonoma County. It should be a fun evening! Prairie Flower is going to be there with me, along with a different version of Country Charmer. Soon, Lynn 

DIY Recessed Zipper Tote Bag Today I made a Recessed Zipper Tote Bag with curved top shape. Zipper closure makes the bag even more functiona...

Today I will be sharing a tutorial on how to make a crazy rails quilt. (You can see more photos of my crazy rails quilt here, if you'd like.) My quilt was inspired by a vintage quilt (below) that belongs to Rebecca, who is a member of my modern quilt guild. Someone in Rebecca's family was on the verge of throwing this quilt away, but her dad stepped in a saved it. I'm so glad that this quilt was rescued. It's a beauty... so inspiring! This is the kind of quilt that one could sit under and look at the fabrics for hours. I just love it! This quilt isn't complicated, by any means, but it's the sheer number of pieces that makes it challenging. Here is a simple tutorial for you, in case you would like to make a crazy rails quilt of your own! I'm sure that I will be revisiting this pattern myself, before too long. I seem to be unable to make just one version of any quilt. :) A few things to note: All seam allowances are 1/4". Each block finishes at 3". Each individual "rail" finishes at 1" x 3". I made blocks by strip piecing, mostly, but I also pieced some blocks individually. I like doing both. Strip piecing saves a lot of time, but I am able to use up smaller pieces by making blocks one at a time. The mix of the two methods gave me a nice variety of blocks to work with in the final layout. It is a good idea to reduce your stitch length while strip piecing, so the seams don't start to separate while the blocks are being handled or arranged. (I use a stitch length setting just under 2 on my Juki, but all sewing machines vary.) To make 1 block at a time: Cut three strips of fabric 1 1/2" x 4". Sew the strips together and press seams to the side, or open, whichever you prefer. I generally press the seams toward the darker fabrics. Trim the block to 3 1/2" square. There is very little waste, as you can see. I trimmed from both ends of the block, to ensure that the block is exactly square. To make 2 blocks at a time: Cut 3 strips 1 1/2" x 7 1/2". Sew together and press seams. Trim the strip set to make 2 blocks, each measuring 3 1/2" square. To make 3 blocks at a time: Cut 3 strips 1 1/2" x 11". Sew together and press. Trim the strip set to make 3 blocks, each measuring 3 1/2" square. To make 4 blocks at a time: Cut 3 strips 1 1/2" x 14 1/2". Sew together and press. Trim the strip set to make 4 blocks, each measuring 3 1/2" square. You could make more that 4 blocks at a time, if you wanted to. Personally, I prefer to have fewer blocks that are exactly the same. Playing with different fabric combinations was a lot of fun! Strip piecing definitely helps make this quilt manageable. I made these 10 blocks in a matter of a few minutes. One other handy thing....I'm piecing a log cabin quilt (measurements here) that also uses 1 1/2" wide strips. It's nice to be able to cut fabric for both quilts at once! Quilt Sizes: size measurements # of blocks needed block layout baby 36” x 36” 144 12 x 12 small lap 48” x 60” 320 16 x 20 large lap 60” x 72” 480 20 x 24 twin 66” x 90” 660 22 x 30 queen 90” x 96” 960 30 x 32 king 108” x 108” 1296 36 x 36 I'm not going to give specific yardage requirements for each quilt size, but if you are guesstimating, a baby size quilt usually requires about 1 1/2 to 2 yards of fabric. A lap size quilt generally uses 3 1/2 to 4 yards of fabric. A twin generally uses between 5 1/2 to 6 yards of fabric. A queen generally requires about 7 1/2 to 8 yards of fabric. A king size quilt can use in the ballpark of 10 yards of fabric. This quilt has more seams than most, so it will probably require more fabric than the amounts listed. These are just very general guidelines for an idea of how much fabric you may need. If you think making a whole quilt is just crazy, (and it might be!) you could also use the block measurements for placemats. That would be pretty fun, too! If you use this tutorial, I'd love to see photos of your quilt. Happy Monday to you!

This Giveaway is Now Closed. Thanks!! :) Well I am super excited about this giveway!! I am so excited to introduce you to my baby sister’s Etsy shop – Sewin’ Girl! Cindy has just recently opened up her shop – and she has filled it with the sweetest little items – she calls them Snugglies! They ... Read More about Giveaway with Sewin’ Girl Snugglies!

It's so much fun to knit washcloths and dishcloths because they are easy and FAST! This pattern is super easy, and can be adapted with any stitch that you