Eine besonders schöne und reich bestickte runde Decke ist Gegenstand dieses Beitrages. Das Konturenmuster von Anna Elisabeth Grein mit seinen großen Motiven bietet Flächen, die sich gut für ansprechende traditionelle Füllmuster eignen. Einige davon sieht man sehr selten. Die kleine Decke hat einen Durchmesser vom 60 cm (ohne den Nadelspitzenrand). Sie wurde auf 16/18-fädigem altem, handgewebtem Leinen gearbeitet. Die Nadelspitze am Rand besteht aus vierstöckig pyramidenförmig angeordneten einfachen Nadelspitzenbögen, die mit Pikots aus Bouillonstichen eingefasst sind. Die Bilder wurden aufgenommen, bevor die Stickerei gewaschen wurde. So sind die Details der Stiche besonders gut zu sehen. In der oben gezeigten Tulpe findet sich eine Kombination aus Flächenfüllmuster Nr. 447 und Kreuznahtstichen “Falscher Röserich” (Bilder 1–12). Auch innerhalb des Kreismotives wurde ein bereits in diesem Blog beschriebenes Flächenfüllmuster gestickt, Nr. 473. Es sprengt den Rahmen eines Blogbeitrages, alle Füllmuster detailliert zu erklären. So lasse ich die Bilder für sich sprechen. Genießen Sie die genaue Betrachtung!
Globales Schwälmer Mustertuch – Update (18) Nun auf zum großen Finale: Vor Kurzem erhielt ich ein Paket mit 36 (!) sorgfältig verpackten Stickereien. Es kam aus Hongkong. Mimi Chan ist eine perfekt ausgebildete Stickerin mit Leib und Seele. Ihre Begeisterung gibt sie in kostenlosem Unterricht an Jugendliche weiter. Ihr großes Können vermittelt sie in Kursen an Erwachsene. Als sie von dem Projekt des Globalen Schwälmer Mustertuches erfuhr, animierte sie viele ihrer Schülerinnen zur Teilnahme – blutige Anfängerinnen und auch fortgeschrittene Stickerinnen. Sie alle haben ihr Bestes gegeben. Natürlich kann ich nicht all diese Stickereien auf einmal präsentieren – das würde den Umfang meiner Blogbeiträge sprengen. Nach und nach zeige ich sie alle – in der Reihenfolge, in der ich die einzelnen Päckchen geöffnet habe. Durch einen erneuten Lockdown in Hongkong musste Mimi ihr Studio zeitweise wieder schließen. Die angefangenen Arbeiten mussten zu Hause in Eigenregie fertiggestellt und dann mühsam in der großen Stadt eingesammelt werden. Da die Zeit drängte, ist vielen Stickereien keine Begründung zum gewählten Motiv beigefügt. Was wohl in all den kleinen und großen Päckchen enthalten ist? Viel Spaß beim Erkunden der wunderschönen Inhalte, beim Betrachten der mannigfaltigen Design-Ideen und beim Entdecken all der interessanten gestickten Details. #54 Elaine Chiu #55 Vincci Ko #56 Toni Lam #57 Kennes Young #58 Anna Chan #59 Laurels Lung Weitere Einsendungen kann man in Update (17) finden.
Eine besonders schöne und reich bestickte runde Decke ist Gegenstand dieses Beitrages. Das Konturenmuster von Anna Elisabeth Grein mit seinen großen Motiven bietet Flächen, die sich gut für ansprechende traditionelle Füllmuster eignen. Einige davon sieht man sehr selten. Die kleine Decke hat einen Durchmesser vom 60 cm (ohne den Nadelspitzenrand). Sie wurde auf 16/18-fädigem altem, handgewebtem Leinen gearbeitet. Die Nadelspitze am Rand besteht aus vierstöckig pyramidenförmig angeordneten einfachen Nadelspitzenbögen, die mit Pikots aus Bouillonstichen eingefasst sind. Die Bilder wurden aufgenommen, bevor die Stickerei gewaschen wurde. So sind die Details der Stiche besonders gut zu sehen. In der oben gezeigten Tulpe findet sich eine Kombination aus Flächenfüllmuster Nr. 447 und Kreuznahtstichen “Falscher Röserich” (Bilder 1–12). Auch innerhalb des Kreismotives wurde ein bereits in diesem Blog beschriebenes Flächenfüllmuster gestickt, Nr. 473. Es sprengt den Rahmen eines Blogbeitrages, alle Füllmuster detailliert zu erklären. So lasse ich die Bilder für sich sprechen. Genießen Sie die genaue Betrachtung!
Moja nowa miłość - haft ze Schwalm. Niewiele wiem na temat tej techniki haftu, ale mam nadzieję zebrać wszystkie dostępne informacje na te...
Manchmal ist es aus Gründen eines harmonischen Designs notwendig, symmetrische Formen nicht gerade oder diagonal zum Fadenlauf zu platzieren. Eine perfekte Stickerin kann einen Ausgleich schaffen, indem sie ein passendes Flächenfüllmuster kreiert, wie auf dem Foto unten zu sehen ist. Die Form läuft nicht diagonal (rot) oder gerade (blau), zum Fadenlauf, sondern irgendwo dazwischen (grün) . Dennoch wurde ein Muster gefunden, das die Mittelachse betont und sich so harmonisch der Form anpasst. Oder man kann ein neutraleres Flächenfüllmuster verwenden, bei dem der Fadenlauf von untergeordneter Bedeutung ist, wie Waffelstiche oder Mückenstiche, Rosenstiche oder Marbuger Grundstiche (unteres Foto). Besser ist es aber immer, symmetrische Figuren von vorn herein gerade oder diagonal zum Fadenlauf zu platzieren und für alle anderen Plätze asymmetirische Figuren oder Kreise zu wählen. Teil 1 der Serie Teil 2 der Serie
category: simple drawn thread filling pattern linen used: 13.5/cm thread-count threads used: coton à broder No. 20 stitches used: Wrap stitches horizontal center axis: quadruple withdrawn thread line The flower motif with the openwork leaves is found on the Schwalm Parade Cushion Border (B). As you can see from the detail of the original embroidery, it is a kind of staggered pea holes, which do not have Four-Sided stitches as a basis, but consist exclusively of wrap stitches. I have tried different ways and recommend embroidering the pattern as described below. Alternate withdrawing 4 fabric threads in one direction and leaving 2 in between. The pattern builds up from the bottom right to the top left. To do this, wrap around 6 fabric threads of the lowest wide withdrawn thread line 3-4 times. *Then slide the needle diagonally to the top left under the horizontal pair of fabric threads to the next withdrawn thread line and bring it up between the third and fourth thread of the bundle. Repeat the stitch once, return to the starting point and slide the needle under the wrapped bundle of threads to the opposite side. From there, the needle is led diagonally to the top right crossing over the horizontal pair of threads, inserted again between the third and fourth thread of the bundle and emerges again at the starting point. Once again, the needle is led diagonally to the top right crossing over the horizontal pair of threads, inserted again between the third and fourth threads of the bundle. This time bring the needle up 6 fabric threads to the left. The 6 fabric threads lying on the needle form the next bundle. But before you can wrap it, you have to connect the left 3 threads to the underlying pair of threads. To do this, the needle is led diagonally over the pair of threads to the bottom right, inserted next to the wrapped bundle and brought up again at the starting point. This stitch is also repeated once, to then wrap the two bundles of 3 threads together.* Repeat the steps of working(*). Reaching the top edge, turn the work 180° and embroider the next row next to the first. In the places where the thread pairs are already wrapped, these steps can be omitted. Some rows – not all – move close to the previous one. You can move the bundles slightly with the needle tip to achieve even distances. In this way, an airy pattern is created that is suitable for filling not too large areas.
Fan-like arranged Scallops can be worked in many different ways. Here are some examples. The same pomgranate design was used to work the scallops with Coral Knot stitches with Satin stitches between two rows of Coral Knot stitches with Blanket stitches and with Coral Knot stitches and Blanket stitches. Your own creativity will discover many other possibilities. Perhaps: Coral Knot stitches, combined with Blanket stitches and Satin stitches Coral Knot stitches and half-eyelet scallops Blanket stitches and half-eyelet scallops or with dots of French Knots as additional decoration or … I think that I have, once again, shown the infinite variety of possibilities of this fascinating embroidery technique.
Globales Schwälmer Mustertuch – Update (16) Elisabeth Erdmann hat mit Beitrag 13 bereits eine sehr schöne, schwalmtypische Stickerei beigesteuert. Nun spendete sie zwei weitere reizvolle Teile. Sie wählte schmale und besonders hohe Konturenmuster, die sie abwechslungsreich bestickte. Die speziellen Größen sind hervorragend beim Zusammensetzen des Mustertuches verwendbar, erleichtern sie doch das lückenlose und passgenaue Verbinden erheblich. #50 #51 Weitere Einsendungen kann man in Update (15) finden.
Ommeltu pitsi on vanhimpia länsimaissa tunnettuja pitsintekotapoja. Tässä selostus siitä miten 1600-luvun tyylisien kalvosimien pitsi valmistui. * A tutorial to explain the technique I used to make…
category: simple drawn thread filling pattern linen used: 13.5/cm thread-count threads used: coton à broder No. 20 stitches used: Four-Sided stitches horizontal center axis: four thread column While working Filling Pattern – No. 567 I also found the pattern emerging on the back very interesting. So I tested it as a front pattern. The pattern shown below is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article. Because it’s the same pattern reversed, the prep work is the same. For the sake of simplicity I show it here again. It makes sense to start in the middle. In addition to the 4 threads that remain, a pair of threads is withdrawn on each side. Four threads are now alternately left on both sides of the withdrawn thread line and another pair of threads is withdrawn. Rotate the work 90°, but do not turn it to the back side this time. Four-Sided stitches are embroidered over the four middle threads from left to right, each bundling 4 fabric threads. The Four-Sided stitches of the adjacent rows are worked staggered by 2 fabric threads. This gives the remaining fabric threads of the withdrawn thread lines a zigzag alignment. Securing the thread ends is done either under the edge stitches or in the back under the Four-Sided stitches. The pattern is suitable for medium-sized areas. I embroidered it in a tulip (here 16/cm thread count linen and No. 25 coton à broder). I find the combination with the Wave stitch appropriate, as can be seen here in the tip of the tulip. Variations can be achieved by using finer thread or – as here – by withdrawing one or two more threads.
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category: Limet-Filling pattern linen used: 13.5/cm thread count threads used: coton à broder No. 20 stitches used: Cross stitches center axises: four thread columns one pattern segment = 5 threads The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article. First, establish a Limet grid by alternately cutting 1, leaving 4, vertically and horizontally. Bring needle up at the bottom of a square between the third and fourth threads from the right, crosses the square upwards and pick up the two middle fabric threads there. Always repeat this step up to the top of the row. Once there, don’t turn the work, but embroider downwards in the same way. Rectangular crosses are formed. Further rows are embroidered in the established way next to it, always starting with the stitches leading upwards and with the downward leading finishing the rows. This way embroider row by row until the entire area is filled. Now turn the work by 90° and embroider crossing stitches in the established way first again from bottom to top, then from top to bottom. This creates double crosses that seem very prominent. I discovered this filling pattern on the Schwalm tablecloth from “brubi”. Here it was embroidered on 16/cm thread count linen.
No. 477 category: Limet-Filling pattern; please note that this is worked on a leave 4, cut 1grid stitches used: 4 X 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet and Rose stitches center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs, longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line) This pattern is similar to pattern 476. First, both the horizontal and the vertical center threads are withdrawn. Working from the center outwards, a Limet grid is established by leaving 4 threads, and cutting 1. In the established Limet grid, work a grid of nine-stitch simple square eyelets. In this example a Rose stitch should lay in the center of the shape. So from the center, bring the needle up diagonally to the left, one square up. Work 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet counterclockwise around the starting point. Repeat working 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet, counterclockwise moving around the center, in diagonal rows as seen in the picture above lengthwise and crosswise to establish the grid. In the remaining squares, Rose stitches are worked. Washed, starched, and ironed one more pretty pattern is finished. The partial square eyelets look embossed, whereas the ares with Rose stitches are flat. This makes an interesting contrast.
category: Limet-Filling pattern linen used: 13.5/cm thread-count threads used: coton à broder No. 20 stitches used: bars of 6 Satin stitches over 1 square in the width and Four-Sided stitches center = intersection of withdrawn-thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis = withdrawn-thread line) one pattern segment = 12 fabric threads The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. First, work a Limet grid by alternately withdrawing 1 and leaving 3 threads both horizontally and vertically. In the established Limet grid, work a grid of Satin stitches. Work, in a stair-step manner, Satin stitch bars over one square (3 threads) in the width and over 2 squares (6 stitches) in the length. In the center remains a square of 2 X 2 squares. Work the Satin stitch grid over the entire shape. Then, from the back of the fabric, work Four-Sided stitches in the remaining squares. Each side stitch bundles 6 fabric threads. Secure the working thread very well and bring it up in the middle of a bottom edge of a 2 X 2 square. It is important to choose the opposite side for starting the Four-Sided stitch to get the corner holes clean and open and the stitch centered. *Start on the top of the square, inserting the needle in the top right hole and bringing it up in the top left hole. Travel to the bottom, insert the needle in the bottom right hole and bring it up in the bottom left hole. With this stitch the thread can be tightened a little bit more to pull together the threads of the center square. Insert the needle in the top right hole again, but bring it up in the bottom right hole. Insert the needle in the top left hole and bring it up in the bottom left hole.* In this way and always tightening the working thread, a prominent center is established on the front. But this stitch will turn out much more prominent, working the Four-Sided stitch twice. This also enables one to better tighten the working thread and so to establish a more even structure of the complete pattern. So repeat the four steps (*) once. Then bring the working thread straight up to the next square. From the front it looks like this: Work one Four-Sided stitch two times in the established way in each section center of the Satin stitch grid. After shrinking in the laundry the bundled fabric will look even more prominent.
category: Limet-Filling pattern linen used: 13.5/cm thread count threads used: coton à broder No. 20 stitches used: Cross stitches center axises: four thread columns one pattern segment = 5 threads The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article. First, establish a Limet grid by alternately cutting 1, leaving 4, vertically and horizontally. Bring needle up at the bottom of a square between the third and fourth threads from the right, crosses the square upwards and pick up the two middle fabric threads there. Always repeat this step up to the top of the row. Once there, don’t turn the work, but embroider downwards in the same way. Rectangular crosses are formed. Further rows are embroidered in the established way next to it, always starting with the stitches leading upwards and with the downward leading finishing the rows. This way embroider row by row until the entire area is filled. Now turn the work by 90° and embroider crossing stitches in the established way first again from bottom to top, then from top to bottom. This creates double crosses that seem very prominent. I discovered this filling pattern on the Schwalm tablecloth from “brubi”. Here it was embroidered on 16/cm thread count linen.
No. 477 category: Limet-Filling pattern; please note that this is worked on a leave 4, cut 1grid stitches used: 4 X 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet and Rose stitches center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs, longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line) This pattern is similar to pattern 476. First, both the horizontal and the vertical center threads are withdrawn. Working from the center outwards, a Limet grid is established by leaving 4 threads, and cutting 1. In the established Limet grid, work a grid of nine-stitch simple square eyelets. In this example a Rose stitch should lay in the center of the shape. So from the center, bring the needle up diagonally to the left, one square up. Work 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet counterclockwise around the starting point. Repeat working 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet, counterclockwise moving around the center, in diagonal rows as seen in the picture above lengthwise and crosswise to establish the grid. In the remaining squares, Rose stitches are worked. Washed, starched, and ironed one more pretty pattern is finished. The partial square eyelets look embossed, whereas the ares with Rose stitches are flat. This makes an interesting contrast.
Looking at the stitches of Schwalm whitework embroideries, I discovered a new (to me) stitch. It is yet again another example of Schwalm embroiderers’ ingenuity. I immediately set out to try it; in this article, I will share the results of my efforts with you. The stitch is worked on a Limet grid – cut 1, leave 3. Similar to the Rose stitch, it is a stitch worked in four steps originating from a center. But this stitch is not worked with Blanket stitches; it is worked with Satin stitches. In addition, it is worked counterclockwise instead of clockwise. I did not find a name for this stitch, so I will call it Easy Eyelet stitch. Instructions for left-handers can be found at the end of this article. Bring the needle up one square from the bottom (center). *Cross over one square down, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Cross over one square to the right, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread. Cross over one square up, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread. Cross over one square to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the next center hole – one square diagonally right up.* Start working the steps (*) again. The first step of this stitch shares the same space as the third step of the previously worked stitch. (The threads will lie closely next to each other in the same space.) The rows are worked from bottom to top. Each hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a stitch. Tighten the thread so that a distinct hole is made. Nice open center holes are established. One row of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create beautiful striped patterns. If you want to work a second row, turn the piece 180° and work a second row beside the first. When working side-by-side rows of this stitch, the working thread will naturally share spaces occupied by previously worked stitches. In these cases, the stitches will lie closely next to each other in the same space. Two rows of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create a pattern. But more rows should not be used. Working row beside row to fill an entire shape establishes the same pattern as Double Crosses – in straight rows/wrong side up (Openwork Pattern Samplers), and this pattern – for filling an entire shape – can be worked much more quickly. But worked from the back side, the Easy Eyelet stitch can establish a nice pattern for small areas. The stitches lying alternately straight and at a slant give a unique effect. Instructions for the left-hander: *Cross over one square down, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Cross over one square to the left, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread. Cross over one square up, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread. Cross over one square to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the next center hole – one square diagonally left up.* Start working the steps (*) again. The first step of this stitch shares the same space as the third step of the previously worked stitch. (The stitches will lie closely next to each other in the same space.) The rows are worked from bottom to top. Each hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a stitch. Tighten thread. One row of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create beautiful striped patterns. If you want to work a second row, turn the piece 180° and work a second row beside the first.
