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You are ready to start pleating!! Here are a few tips to get you going. (Photos in this blog have been taken using the ComPleater Box available through Amberlane) 16 Row Read Pleater and ComPleater Box Begin by removing all needles not required for pleating your fabric from the machine. This saves wear and tear on the needles not being used and could prevent breakage. It also allows you to check these needles for a bent one or other damage. Needles for most projects are positioned at the ‘non-handle’ end so only the fabric being pleated passes through the machine. To thread, pull the thread up from under the needle. Pull through the eye of the needle sufficient thread to reach the table top. By allowing this amount of thread, you are far less likely to have the thread pull out of the needle(s) when clearing the fabric. Threading from the bottom up allows you to easily clear the thread from the needles when pleating is complete. But more about that later. On the right is a side view of a Read 16 row pleater mounted on a ComPleater box, pleater tipped up for ease of pleating. The fabric is rolled onto a dowel and has started to pass through the machine. Here you can see that the fabric was positioned to pass through the pleater rollers so the first gathering thread is one full space down from the raw edge of the fabric. This allows for a ½” seam allowance which will fall just below the first gathering thread. Passing the fabric at ½ space from the raw edge would allow you to use a smaller seam allowance. The needles in this photo on the left are full and need clearing. When this happens, you will find the handle harder to move and the machine will sound like it is starting to ‘thump’. Do not force the handle any more. Stop and gently ease the fabric off the needles. Below you see that the fabric has been cleared from the needles so you can carry on pleating. Here the pleating is done and the last of the fabric is cleared from the pleats. If you slightly raise the fabric you can slip a finger in between the threads in the needles. Keep in mind that the thread on the top of the needles is the short end (not attached to the thead spools) Gently pull up on each of these threads to remove them from the fabric. See the close-up below. You may wish to put a thumb nail on the needle to give some support while pulling the thread out – just to prevent bent needles. Once the threads are released from the pleater, you can simply pull up and give yourself enough thread to accommodate the letting out of pleats for smocking. More will be needed for a bishop but once you have spread the pleats and tied off the threads, you can trim the unwanted ends. You will learn to gage how much thread you need but it is better to have more than insufficient. With the Read pleater you will find that the pleating rolls so that the wrong side is the ‘inside’ of the roll. The long stitch is on the wrong side. When you pleat with a Read pleater place the fabric so that the wrong side of the fabric is ‘up’ or next to the roller. This allows you to see a seam more easily if you must pass one through the machine. 24 row Sally Stanley pleater threaded to pleat an insert. The fabric is positioned to hold 13 rows of gathering threads centered on the fabric. Leaving the extra two needles on the ends, ensures more even pleating. (I cheated for this and eft all the needles in place.) Below the fabric has been cleared from the needles. The pleating is evenly centered. On the right you see the difference in the pleating from the Read to the Sally Stanley. The needles of the Sally Stanley are much closer to the center of the pleat and it is more difficult to identify the right and wrong sides. The long stitch is still the wrong side. Just note that fabric should be pleated with the right side facing up so the gathering threads are slightly to the back of the fabric. Here is another type of insert done on a 24 row Read pleater. Sometimes you want to pleat a piece of fabric with the pleating centered in the middle of the fabric, leaving a ruffle on each end (e.g. for decorations). Lightly press the fabric in half so you can line up the fabric to a needle or a half space while you are pleating. In this example six needles have been threaded up and the fold is lined up to a half-space needle as a guide. Whatever you choose to pleat, a light shot of spray starch will give you better and crisper pleats. Keep your pleater clean and pass some waxed paper through occasionally to lubricate it. And most of all, check your needles often for bends or damage. Needles should be sharp; keep in mind they don't last forever. I hope this is a help to those of you who might have questions about pleating for smocking. So until next time, keep on stitching!!
The post is being written for Kelly, who is having trouble changing a needle on her pleater. I decided to share all the pictures I was taking for her because if she was having a problem then maybe someone else was also. I am using a Salley Stanley pleater so there may be some slight differences with your pleater. The first step is to tilt the front of your pleater backwards. You can use a book or as shown here, a spool of thread. Next you will need to loosen the screws and turn the tab that holds the front bar. You do not need to remove the screws. If your pleater has pins then you can just remove the pins and place them somewhere where you can remember. Next remove the front bar. Your pleater is still tilted . If not your needles will all fall out. Been there done that. Don't want to do it again! :-) This is what the pleater looks like with out the front bar. Another close up. To remove the needle, hold the pleater needle by the end and lift up and out. If you are removing a broken needle you will need to find the broken tip of the needle and remove it also. Note the direction of the curve of the pleater needle. You must use a pleater needle that has been designed for your brand of pleater. While holding the end of the pleater needle, place the tip of the needle into the needle grove. Do not push or use force. Then lay the pleater needle down into the needle grove. Repeat the process until you have place all your pleater needle where you want them to be. After you are done, place the top roller bar back on. Check to see you have it going the right direction. The bar should roll back into place. Tighten the screws or replace the pin. Double check that everything moves freely by turning the wheel of your pleater. You should be able to turn the wheel with one finger. You can also find information on customizing your pleater under the archives. http://texassmockingcompany.blogspot.com/2009/06/customizing-your-pleater.html
There are a few ways to pleat fabric for smocking, but the easiest and fastest way is by using a smocking pleater. My previous post was all ...
Give your Featherweight a "Spa Day!" This oiling tutorial will teach you every step of oiling your Singer Featherweight 221 Sewing Machine and is geared...
This is the first of a four part series. I made my grandaughter Maisie, a smocked Easter dress. I used Chery Williams "Basic Square Yoke Dress" pattern. The pattern comes on a huge sheet of paper, and is printed on both sides of the paper. I use freezer paper to trace the patterns and cut them out. I don't use the waxy side, but the paper is big enough to trace the large pieces. I always trace the patterns with pencil, making sure to write the size, how many pieces to be cut and where the grain of the fabric is. In order to do the English Smocking, the fabric has to be pleated on a special pleater. You determine how many rows of smocking the dress will have according to the size of the dress, and add an extra row on top and bottom. Carefully roll the fabric onto a dowel that can pass through the holes of the pleater. When pleating fabric in preparation for smocking, it is extremely important to use quilting thread. Regular thread would be weak and break and it takes way too much time and effort for that to happen! Use strong quilting thread. My husband made me this board that holds the pleater with velcro and has posts to hold the spools of thread. Some have broken during our many moves but there are still enough to make it work. I am smocking 8 rows, so I need 10 rows of pleats. The needles for the pleater fit under the rods, and they are squiggly in shape. When you run the fabric through the pleater, make sure the top of the fabric is even with the notches above the notch of the top needle. This notch is used as a guide while gently running the fabric through the pleater. It is very important to be gentle so that a pleater needle doesn't break. If it does, you have to take everything apart and start over. It is painstaking just to thread all of those needles!!! The fabric pulls out straight at the beginning. The more the fabric is pulled through the pleater, the more it pleats up. I finished pleating the front of the dress. It is quite a painstaking task but luckily it pleated on the grain and none of the needles broke. Tomorrow I will show you how I smock the pleats.
When the timing of your sewing machine isn't right neither are your stitches. Learn how to time your sewing machine today.
Complete Rotary Hook Assembly for Juki Industrial Walking Foot Machines. Juki Part Number : B-1830-563-BA0 Also sold under theser numbers : HSH-12-15MMJ(A), KRT11-5LJ, KRT11-5LJR This top-quality hook is used on thicker thread for sewing heavy materials. This is a large capacity sewing hook which fits following Juki Industrial Sewing Machines LU-563 LU-1508 LU-1510 LU-1560 This hook will also work on some other industrial walking foot machines. Thank you for looking !!
Como armar el tensor de hilo en la maquina de coser. #coser #costura. El mundo de la costura · Original audio
