9 must know Quilt piecing tips. Quilt techniques to know especially if want to learn how to quilt or want to improve your piecing accuracy.
tutorial on joining the ends of quilt binding
Hi there, I’m hoping you can help me. I have a newly finished quilt that got a small hole in the top from my cat’s claws. What’s the best way to repair…
Avoid Tension Waves and Other Issues! Are you disappointed with the results you’re getting with straight line quilting? If so, one or more of 6 comprehensive tips is likely to help. One common issue is creating tension waves. The solution is to always quilt in the same direction, rather than turn at the end and …
Are you new to machine quilting? You may have made tied quilts for a while and now want to explore machine quilting. I’ve seen a lot of advice given for how to machine quilt but I think mos…
Learn how to hand baste a quilt top. This is for prepping the quilt either for machine quilting or hand quilting. Hints and tips to help as well!
No More Getting Stuck in Corners or Having to Cross Over! Stipple quilting looks simple, and it actually is, yet many quilters have a hard time mastering it. It’s so easy to get stuck and have to cross over stitching lines, or to have your squiggles differ greatly in size. While you may have heard …
In an unprecedented act of blogging fanciness I decided to make a video documenting how I create the woodgrain texture (so thoroughly p...
This week we’ll assemble the blocks into a quilt top. Follow the instructions on page 23 of Turnabout Patchwork. Simple quilts with a twist to assemble the quilt top. Assembling the quilt top…
Join me in my kitchen as we mix up a batch of affordable, effective homemade spray baste! Plus, a FREE PDF download of the recipe and instructions! (This article contains affiliate links)
Straight line quilting is a great beginner quilting technique, but there's a right way and a wrong way. Continue reading to see if you are doing it right!
Last year, I cleaned out and got rid of most of my fabric stash. (Read about that here). I didn't touch my scraps though. I can't bring myself to get rid of them because someday I'll make a postage stamp quilt or a string quilt or a scrappy something! (Maybe I'll design a quilt meant to use scraps...hmm...) In the ba
Want your quilting to look just as good as the professionals? Using stitch in the ditch might be what you are missing! Continue reading to find out how!
I’ll be honest – when I first started quilting, curves gave me the willies. It’s silly, because while I wasn’t particularly good at it, I’ve sewn clothing. I’ve …
Free motion quilting is still something I get asked about the most. It's so simple, and also so daunting at the same time! I'm DEFINITELY not an expert, and don't look too close at my stitches, but good news....it doesn't have to be perfect, AND it's a great stress reliever! ;) While I was quilting...Read More
Three easy methods for using fleece as quilt backing. Check out the difference between using batting or no batting and two ways to bind.
Learn how to baste a quilt with spray basting. Easy to follow tutorial with written and picture instructions for beginners!
Today I am going to attempt to help you figure out how to cut and buy the correct amount of fabric for the back of your quilt. This will be featured in the tool section as Backing Chart for quick reference in the future. This chart assumes your fabric is 42 inches wide. You will have to make adjustments if your fabric is a different width. This first section will feature five different options for piecing the backing depending on how big your quilt is for the optimal use of fabric. I did do the drawings below, but someone else figured out the math, and I am not sure who to give the credit to, as someone gave me these numbers. These options will give you a piece big enough to back your quilt, but you will have to trim in most cases after putting the quilt sandwich together: OPTION A: No piecing. Just cut to size. OPTIONS B AND C: Cut the backing fabric in half crosswise (selvage to selvage), removing the selvage first and then sewing the two pieces together lengthwise on the long edges. OPTIONS D AND E: With this option you cut your fabric in thirds crosswise again, (selvage to selvage). Sew the three pieces together lengthwise along the long edges. QUILT SIZE CHART WITH BACKING DIAGRAM NEEDED AND YARDAGE NEEDED QUILT SIZE USE DIAGRAM YARDAGE NEEDED 28" x 28" A 1 28" x 40" A 1 34" x 44" A 1 1/4 40" x 52" A 1 1/2 42" x 56" A 1 3/4 48" x 54" B 3 48" x 60" B 3 52" x 52" B 3 56" x 68" B 3 1/4 58" x 62" B 3 1/2 60" x 72" B 3 1/2 60" x 80" B 3 1/2 62" x 86" C 5 62" x 92" C 5 1/4 66" x 105" C 6 69" x 96" C 5 1/2 76" x 110" C 6 1/4 86" x 105" D 7 1/4 86" x 115" D 7 1/4 90" x 110" D 7 3/4 96" x 110" D 8 100" x 111" D 8 1/2 106" x 116" D 9 112" x 110" E 9 1/4 124" x 116" D 10 1/2 Another method to cut a backing is diagonally. This was first developed by John Flynn of the Flynn Frame Company while trying to help his sister. She had a piece of fabric which wasn’t quite long enough to cut in half and sew back together with a vertical seam to get a quilt back. Her idea was to cut the fabric into two big triangles along the diagonal, offset the triangles along the diagonal cut to get the width she needed and then sew them back together. John, having an engineering background had a formula to help her. John’s method for diagonally piecing a quilt back from one piece of fabric is the most efficient way to make the back whenever the width of the quilt back is one and a half times, or less, than the width of the fabric you plan to use. For example, if the width of your back fabric is 44”, use John’s method whenever the width you want your back to be is 66” or less. If you are using fabric that is 60” wide, use John’s method whenever you want your quilt back to be 90” or less. This is explained at his site very well Here. This formula is mathmatically complicated for my mind to grasp, but someone has taken his formula and made a tutorial and calculator to help you. You will find this calculator and tutorials on different variations of the diagonal cut backing at: Multi-Patch. I hope this was helpful to you. I have a printable document in the tool section for you to take along to the quilt shop here. Piecefully yours, Debbie
Once your quilt has been quilted, it’s time to trim the excess batting and backing off of your quilt so it is ready to be bound. This process is called squaring up a quilt. Squaring up your quilt after quilting it is an important step in the quilt making process. It’s essential to trim off...
tutorial on joining the ends of quilt binding
To go with the video tutorial I've put together a cheat sheet. It details my method of making pinwheels along with a handy reference chart with the quilt math to make pinwheels in all sorts of sizes. You can download a PDF version of the cheat sheet by clicking here. You can also 'Pin" the
I bought some coloured pencils and nice paper recently and have been busy scribbling some potential quilt ideas. When I shared a few to my instagram stories, this was one of the favourites- so here is a tutorial so you can make one too!
I hope that you enjoy snuggling with your quilt while hand-stitching a binding to your quilt - it's still one of my favorite parts of quilting.
Making mitered corners doesnt' hjave to be hard.Start with a small application to gain confidence in making excellent mitered corners every time!
When making a quilt label, is it appropriate to include the name of the person who designed the pattern? And is it necessary to contact the designer of…
As promised in my last post, here is a tutorial on how I like to face a quilt. Facing a quilt is a way to bind your quilt without having the binding show on the front. It allows you to take the quilting all the way to the edge, can add a nice professional and more artful looking finish, (especially to a smaller quilt) and I also find quilts seem to hang better and flatter with this method. Please keep in mind that this is just one way to face a quilt, and that there are many different methods out there. A lot of quilters prefer to use methods that create mitered corners, and you can find loads of tutorials on how to do that with a goggle search. However, I am extremely direction challenged and found them a bit too confusing for me! The method that I use doesn't give you mitered corners, but who cares as they wouldn't show on the front anyway. And best of all it is simple, straight forward and super-duper easy, I promise! I broke this tutorial up into 17 steps, (all really simple so don't be intimidated) and lots of photos, as visually I learn best that way, and I am guessing you do, too! So, here we go.... Step 1: Begin with a quilt top that you have finished quilting. Make sure to square the corners and trim off any excess batting and backing fabric. Starting at the top and the bottom edges of your quilt, cut two strips of fabric each 2" wide and a wee bit longer then your top and bottom edges. (Note: For photo purposes, my quilt is turned on its side here). With your quilt facing right side up, pin each strip along the top and bottom, lining the edge of the fabric strip to the edge of the quilt, as seen in the photo above. (Note: I like to use solids, but if you are using a print for your facing strips you would want to sew the strip right side down). Step 2: Using a 1/4" seam allowance sew both strips in place and trim the excess fabric edges flush with the sides of the quilt, as shown in the photo above. Step 3: Flip the strips up and over to the side, as shown above. (If using a print the print would now be face up). Press with a hot iron. Step 4: Begin to fold the entire strip to the back of the quilt, as shown above. You almost have to roll the area that contains the seam allowance to get it to go backwards. As you are doing this, keep pressing with a hot iron, (I like to use a lot of steam, too). The photo above shows what the front will look like once that strip is turned and pressed all the way to the back. Here, the photo above shows how the edge of the quilt will look once the strip is folded back. And this photo above, shows what the back will look like. Very easy so far, yes?! Okay, lets continue.... Step 5: Now you are going to flip your quilt over to the backside, and unfold those strips that I just had you so carefully fold and press! Using your hot iron and some steam, begin to turn and press the edge of each facing strip inward a generous 1/4" as shown above. (Be careful to just press the edge of the facing strip, and not that quilted seam allowance, as we want to keep the "memory" of the pressed fold there for later). Step 6: Flip your quilt to the front and your facing strips, too, so they are now back to where you started. Pin in place so they lay nice and flat along the quilt top, as shown in the photo above. Step 7: Cut two more facing strips, again each 2" wide, but this time approximately 1" shorter then the length of your quilt. Step 8: Center each strip along the sides of your quilt leaving approximately 1/2" on the ends, as shown above. As before, pin both strips to the sides, lining up the edges of the strips to the edges of your quilt. Note: Once the new facing strips are pinned in place you can remove the pins from the first two strips. Step 9: Begin stitching at the edge of the quilt, and using a 1/4"seam allowance, continue to stitch the length of the strip and past, going all the way to the other edge of your quilt. See photo above. Step 10: Stitch each corner of your quilt. You will want to go right across that intersection, as shown above. This is to reinforce your corners for when they are turned. I like to stitch a line forward then another one backward, for extra strength. Step 11: Trim each corner off, flush with the line you just stitched, as shown above. Step 12: We are going to repeat a few steps here... As before in Step 3, flip the two strips that you just sewed over and away from the quilt and press. Then fold and roll the strips to the back as you did in Step 4 pressing as you go. Flip your quilt over to the back and unfold your facing strips as you did in Step 5 and press your generous 1/4" seam allowance along the edge of each facing strip. But now, unlike before, I want you to re-fold and re-roll these two strips back again to the back of your quilt. Steam press again to get everything nice and flat. The above photo shows what the front of your quilt should now look like. The facing strips along the top and the bottom of your quilt top are still visible on the front, and the side facing strips are turned and pressed neatly to the back. And the photo above shows what that those two newest strips should look like on the back side. Yup... lot's of little steps here, but they are oh, so easy! And we are almost finished! Step 13: Flip your quilt to the backside, and pin those two strips flat against the back of your quilt, as shown above. Step 14: Using nice small stitches, hand stitch each strip in place along the back of your quilt, as shown above, remembering to be careful not to stitch through to the front side. Step 15: We are in the home stretch now, baby! Using your forefinger and thumb, as shown above and below, push each corner right-side out. As you do this the two remaining facing strips on the front side of your quilt will naturally flip to the back of your quilt, where they belong. Continue to push each corner out with your thumb. I then like to use a wooded chopstick to push the corner as far out as possible. Step 16: Once the corners are all pushed out and the facing strips are on the backside of the quilt, re-press along the edges with a hot iron, making sure everything is nice and crisp and laying flat, as shown above. Step 17: As before in Steps 13 and 14, pin and hand stitch the two facing strips down to the back of your quilt, as shown in the photo above. Ta - da! That's it! You are all done! Above, is what the quilt looks like from the back. Folk Art Cross Quilt No.3 And here is what it looks like from the front. Told you it was easy! If you have any questions, ask them in the comment section and I'll do my best to answer them! xo You can view more of my Tutorials HERE and my Patterns HERE.
I am back home from my wonderful time in Paducah at the National Quilt Museum and two classes for 39 terrific quilters. The weather was amazing, the best I've ever experienced there, cool at night, dry and sunny and 70's in the day with autumn color and deep blue skies. Lovely. We quilted and we learned. I always learn so much from those in class and we laughed a lot too. One of the techniques I stressed this time was curving parallel lines, and learning to echo quilt well so that anything is possible. Depending on the batt, thread used, fabrics, as well as design choice, switching to a smaller needle gave a better result unless one of those things wasn't quite right, and then we had problems. One problem can be skipped stitches, see sample in photo above. Everything was working fine for one student until she put in a #60 needle with a fine cotton thread. A combination of the thin batt and the small needle caused skipped stitches. Going back to the #70 needle solved the problem. Almost always skipped stitches are caused by one of the following: the needle being too small for the thread the batt being very thin and flat the presser foot pressure too low a defective needle threading done incorrectly hands too fast for the speed of the machine Sometimes it is a combination of things, so try one thing at a time. Re-thread, try a bigger needle, check the pressure on the foot for the thickness of the batt. The thicker and poufier the batt, the lower the pressure on the foot should be so the quilt will glide smoothly and easily. I switch mine to a lower pressure if I need to quilt over an island of puff without causing pleats, increase it for doing free motion straight lines for a bit more control. I usually decrease the pressure a bit for any free motion quilting for ease of movement, and to avoid the dreaded snowplowing of excess fabric, and the inevitable pleat that results. Also, slow down your hands to a smooth even consistent motion. If you want to move them faster, increase the speed of the machine to keep up with them. Needles stop breaking and skipped stitches will be a memory. By the way, in the photo, above, the thread tension is perfect. You want a softly curving stitch, no visible bobbin thread, that showcases the thread, that doesn't stretch it flat and tight. I usually recommend for all free motion quilting lowering the top tension one number. Some of the newer machines might need less, or some not any depending on the thread, but a little leeway for the stitches to go in all directions is a very good thing. And I didn't really have skipped stitches; I moved the needle over a bit and then continued to get a facsimile of a skipped stitch. Try some curving, echoed lines for an interesting new way of quilting. The bowl, above, should give you some ideas and a challenge! I will be teaching at the museum in Paducah, KY next October in 2011, an introductory class first for quilters with free motion experience, and an advanced class for returning students to continue the adventure. Check the museum's website for information; there are still openings in these classes, and I have not booked any more events after '11. http://www.quiltmuseum.org/ It's great to be home, Oliver really, really missed me and spent all day yesterday playing, attacking me, helping me unpack, scratching my suitcases, and having an ecstatic cat day. I wish I could take him along, but perhaps his adventures will have to remain sniffing my shoes and clothes and wondering where I have been. Keep quilting, your work gets better every day! Diane
It is important to square a quilt before starting the preparation for long-arm and free motion stitching. Learn how to square any size quilt topper.
easiest quilt binding method ever. Binding a quilt with clear thread
See how to finish binding on a quilt - the easy way!
When I started quilting, I had no idea how to do this. My knots would look so ghetto, lol. This may be a no-brainer to a lot of you seasoned sewers out there, but for all of you that’d like a…
Most quilters find the binding step to be the most time-consuming part of making a quilt but it doesn't have to be if you use your sewing machine. This method is a popular way to finish a quilt that both saves time (compared to hand sewing) and completes the quilt by giving it a nicely finished border edge. We personally sew all of our binding using a sewing machine as it's quick and easy and to be honest, we really don't like hand sewing all that much. This tutorial goes over the basics of quilt binding plus it illustrates the
Learning how to tie a quilt is a great way to give some hand quilted charm to your projects. Continue reading for 6 fun ways to try it out!
Learn how to square up fabric before cutting any pieces for your next quilt - especially when dealing with longer strips.
There is an easier way to bind a quilt: use the backing fabric. Learn how in this tutorial from NewQuilters.com. #bindingaquilteasy, bindingaquilttutorial
When the quilting’s done and the binding is all that remains, the finish line is in sight. What an awesome feeling! Before you head down the home stretch, take some time to “square up” the quilt and your quilt will look even more spectacular.
You've got to get the binding on your quilt nice and straight to get the perfect look. Read this quilting tutorial to get perfectly straight corners on quilt binding.
Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission from the sale if you click through and purchase. Quilt pictured here is the Playroom Quilt Pattern. Sometimes our furry friends get a little too excited and
How to Free Motion Quilt, and how to set up for freemotionquilting
