The Japan Skirt - PDF Sewing Pattern. Rectangle skirts are nothing new. What maybe new is the way you work your rectangle. This particular pattern has been hanging on my pattern rail for at least 8 years. Originally developed for merino ponti, grading up and down in sizes allows you to cut this pattern in a variety of knit and woven fabrics. You'll find thePDF Sewing Pattern on the website. www.studiofaro.com
I am so late to the game and I feel like everyone in the sewing community has made the Sapporo Coat except me, but hey, better late than never right?I fell in love with this jacket so fast, I made two in TWO days! My first one was a wool blend with a cotton silk lining (this gorgeous zebra fabric). My second one was a cotton blend jacquard with a cotton/silk lining. As we're heading into Australian summer I'm definitely going to make more out of summery fabrics such as linen or even silk!As much
Learn the meaning of traditional Japanese patterns, aka Wagara, and the inspiration behind each of these beautiful graphic motifs.
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If you’re going to Kyoto, renting a kimono is an unforgettable experience. This is our experience from beginning to end on the kimono rental experience in Kyoto.
Japanese embroidery ideas and techniques to try something a little different and learn about a different culture.
Japan is a culture of centuries-old, strict traditions that govern almost everything, so it’s no surprise to learn they’ve also developed a collection of traditional colors, known as dentouiro 伝統色でんとういろ . (source) During our recent travels, Japan’s landscapes, fabrics, architecture and people inspired us to create some color palettes of our own. Each of these 36 photos from Japan tells a travel story – and has inspired its own unique color palette. Use these color ways to start planning your wall colors, your decor, your outfit or any color scheme. Let’s start the tour in Kyoto… 1. Arashiyama, The Bamboo Forest 2. Moss in a Buddhist Cemetery See Product See Product See Product 3. Earthenware Pottery in a Teahouse 4. Torii Gate at Shinto Shrine 5. A Shogun’s Palace 6. A Village Shrine See Product See Product See Product 7. A Gilded Screen 8. Paper Lanterns 9. A Tea Ceremony 10. A Verdigris Lion Dog See Product See Product See Product 11. Iron and Mountains 12. A Sense of Zen 13. Wooden Shoes 14. A Smiling Attendant 15. Pottery for Sale See Product See Product See Product 15. A Tokyo Street 16. Tokyo Traffic 17. Zen Garden 18. Another View of the Bamboo Forest 19. Tribute to the Ancestors 20. A Zen Monument 21. Garden Path 22. Hie-Jinja Temple 23. Traditional Geiko 24. Tofu and Sake 25. Tourists Playing Dress-Up 26. Wedding Day 27. Koi Pond 28. Cherry Blossoms 29. Graphics and Signs 30. Geisha and Parisol 31. Water Lilies 32. Ancient Architecture 33. Modern Lights 34. Tokyo Sunset 35. Snow Monkey 36. Sake Set 37. Pink Skies SmithHönig Which colors from our Japanese color palettes were your favorites? Did any of these combinations surprise you? Do you plan to incorporate any of these colors or any Japan-inspired SmithHönig products into your home decor? We would love to know!
Free traditional Japanese patterns and designs from the seminal book Kyūko zufu. With explanations about the symbolism for each element.
This pond is so stunning it looks like you've stepped into one of Monet's masterpieces.
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Japan is a culture of centuries-old, strict traditions that govern almost everything, so it’s no surprise to learn they’ve also developed a collection of traditional colors, known as dentouiro 伝統色でんとういろ . (source) During our recent travels, Japan’s landscapes, fabrics, architecture and people inspired us to create some color palettes of our own. Each of these 36 photos from Japan tells a travel story – and has inspired its own unique color palette. Use these color ways to start planning your wall colors, your decor, your outfit or any color scheme. Let’s start the tour in Kyoto… 1. Arashiyama, The Bamboo Forest 2. Moss in a Buddhist Cemetery See Product See Product See Product 3. Earthenware Pottery in a Teahouse 4. Torii Gate at Shinto Shrine 5. A Shogun’s Palace 6. A Village Shrine See Product See Product See Product 7. A Gilded Screen 8. Paper Lanterns 9. A Tea Ceremony 10. A Verdigris Lion Dog See Product See Product See Product 11. Iron and Mountains 12. A Sense of Zen 13. Wooden Shoes 14. A Smiling Attendant 15. Pottery for Sale See Product See Product See Product 15. A Tokyo Street 16. Tokyo Traffic 17. Zen Garden 18. Another View of the Bamboo Forest 19. Tribute to the Ancestors 20. A Zen Monument 21. Garden Path 22. Hie-Jinja Temple 23. Traditional Geiko 24. Tofu and Sake 25. Tourists Playing Dress-Up 26. Wedding Day 27. Koi Pond 28. Cherry Blossoms 29. Graphics and Signs 30. Geisha and Parisol 31. Water Lilies 32. Ancient Architecture 33. Modern Lights 34. Tokyo Sunset 35. Snow Monkey 36. Sake Set 37. Pink Skies SmithHönig Which colors from our Japanese color palettes were your favorites? Did any of these combinations surprise you? Do you plan to incorporate any of these colors or any Japan-inspired SmithHönig products into your home decor? We would love to know!
Learn the meaning of traditional Japanese patterns, aka Wagara, and the inspiration behind each of these beautiful graphic motifs.
Explore Frans Persoon's 1426 photos on Flickr!
Ahh sustainable fashion - one of my favourite subjects to ramble on about. I can’t help but wonder if people on the receiving end of one my rants about fast fashion are desperately wishing I would pipe down and stop hating on Kmart. But that's another post entirely. There are so many different aspects to what constitutes a sustainable piece of clothing. The longevity of it- how many wears you will get out of it. The fibres used. Will this fibre break down quickly in landfill? Can it be recycled? The amount of waste generated when making it. Production methods. Dyes. Water usage from washing. Are the materials local? How much shipping was involved in getting this garment to you. The list goes on. It can get a bit overwhelming. For this post, I’m going to focus on zero-waste patterns. As the name suggests – there is no waste left over from this type of pattern. Every little bit of fabric is used, and thus saved from landfill. I love this type of pattern making. It really challenges you to forget what you know about conventional pattern making and play around with different shapes, seam lines placements and silhouettes. Having a blank square or rectangle of fabric in front of you can be a bit daunting. My favourite thing to do is cut the fabric into two or more big triangles (don’t ask me why, but I think triangular shapes have the most manipulation potential) and drape it on the mannequin in interesting ways – using pleating, twisting, darts and folding to shape the fabric pieces around the form. I prefer to hem these pieces first, so once it’s all artfully arranged in a sweet configuration, you don’t need to worry about finishes. I'm currently sans mannequin, so here's a (very old) photo from a previous time I played around with draping triangles on a form. Today I am providing the dimensions for a basic, zero-waste robe pattern. For the record, this picture below isn't an exact replica of this pattern - the silhouette and measurements are the same, but I have used 3 different types of fabric in my version as I was trying to use up leftover fabric I already had in the house. Because of this, there is a seam halfway down my sleeve where two different fabrics meet, that is not on the pattern provided. Buuuut, the way this pattern is set out - you can totally use 3 different lengths of fabric and it will still be zero waste (as long as your fabrics are all from a 140cm wide roll). This is what you'd need if you wanted to use 3 different fabrics. Fabric 1: Main Body (80cm) Fabric 2: Sleeves and Lower Front/Back Panels (80cm) Fabric 3: Sleeve Hem Band, Neck Band, Pockets, Underarm Gussets (30cm) I'm keeping the instructions relatively low key, as drawing digital images is my least favourite thing to do and I think the steps are pretty straightforward - but please don't hesitate to get in touch if you'd like any steps clarified! Let's get to it. WHAT YOU WILL NEED: This pattern is based on fabric that is 140cm wide - 190cm is needed Matching thread Chalk or fabric marking pen Ruler Scissors Sewing Machine Optional: Bias binding is my preferred choice for finishing the seams in this garment, but any finish of your choosing is fine. Cutting fabric scraps into bias strips to make your own binding is a great way to up leftover pieces of material. Make sure your fabric is pre-washed. I'd recommend any fabrics with a nice drape to it. I used double gauze cotton I found at the op shop (old baby blankets) and an old cotton bed sheet (also op shop) for the neck and sleeve hem bands. The third fabric is a bit of a mystery blend I had lying around in my stash. I did a burn test but jury is still out on what the blend of fibres is. My guess is a poly-cotton. PATTERN DIMENSIONS STEP 1: Transfer measurements from the pattern to your piece of cloth. Use chalk and a ruler to measure and draw the lines on. Cut the pieces out. Because they are all rectangles, you may find it useful to tape a bit of masking tape onto each piece, labelling what it is. The similar sized pieces can easily get mixed up. The slit running up the centre of the main body piece has a small V cut into it to allow the neck band to be sewn on more easily in a later step. Keep in mind, the seam allowance is 1cm, so the V shouldn't be cut bigger than 1cm. STEP 2: Attach the front and back panels to the main body. Using a 1cm seam allowance, place the right side of the panels, against the right side of the main body and sew together. Finish the seam in your preferred method. Press seams towards the raw edges. **If you have spare fabric in your stash that can be cut into bias strips, a bias bound seam in a contrasting pattern/colour is my recommended finishing technique. STEP 3: Line up two of the gussets against the edge of the sleeve as shown. With the right sides facing, sew together using a 1cm seam allowance (use the 1cm seam allowance from now on, unless otherwise specified) . Finish seam. Press seam outwards. Repeat this step on the other sleeve. Step 4: Align the notch on the top edge of the sleeve, to the notch on the main body. With the right sides facing together, sew along the edge to join the pieces. Finish the seam and press outwards. Repeat on the other side, for the other sleeve. Step 5: Fold the robe in half, so the right sides are facing together. Sew along the edge, from the edge of the sleeve hem, all the way down to the hem of the bodice. Clip into the corners of the seam allowance under the arms. Finish the seam. Repeat on other side. Press the seams towards the back. Step 6: Turn your hem up by 4cm - if you are using bias binding on your seams, you may like to bind the raw edge first, before turning the hem up towards the wrong side and sewing down. Another option for a clean, enclosed finish, is to fold the fabric in 0.5cm towards the wrong side, then fold up again by 3.5cm. Stitch. Press hem flat. Step 7: Patch pockets. Fold the top of the pocket piece over by 2cm, so the right sides are facing. Stitch along both edges of the fold, using a 1cm seam allowance. Trim the corners off and turn the fold back out to the right way. Press fold down and stitch along the edge. Fold the remaining raw edges up and press in place. Place the pockets on the bodice as desired. I haven't marked the pattern with pocket placement, as it is such a personal preference. Stitch along the remaining edges to secure pocket in place. Step 8: Neck band. Place the 2 neck band pieces together, right sides facing. Stitch along one of the skinny edges. Press the seam outwards. Align the seam of the neckband with the centre back neck of the main body. The right side of the neckband should be facing the wrong side of the main body. The small V cut into the end of the slit will help spread the fabric out along the straight edge of the neck band. Sew the band to the main body using a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seam towards the band. If your fabric is bulky, you may like to grade the seam. Fold and press the other edge of the band inwards by 1cm. Fold and press the remaining raw edge upwards. Fold the band in half, so the folded edge just covers the line of stitching. Pin in place and top stitch neatly along the edge to secure in place. Step 9. Sleeve Band. Fold the band in half, right sides together, and sew up the skinny edge. Press the seam outwards. Repeat on other band. Fold one edge of the band in by 1cm and press in place. Align the band over the sleeve, so the seams are matching. The right side of the band should be facing the wrong side of the sleeve. The raw edge of the band should be lined up with the raw edge of the sleeve. Sew in place. Press the seam outwards. Fold the sleeve band in half so the folded edge is just covering the line of stitching. Top stitch in place. Give everything a good ol' final press and you're done. Huzzah! I'd love to see any photos if anybody decides to give this a try. Tag me on Instagram @elbe_textiles and use the hashtag #elbetextiles
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Learn the meaning of traditional Japanese patterns, aka Wagara, and the inspiration behind each of these beautiful graphic motifs.
How to go from clueless amateur to generational talent (or at least live life a little more creatively).
A list of the most helpful sashiko embroidery tutorials, including videos and how-to make patterns. Plus, sashiko projects and free patterns to inspire you.
Tokyo is Japan’s bustling capital city. It has a beautifully chaotic vibe with exciting sights and sounds around every corner. If you’re travelling to Japan, odds are you’ll be spending some time here. While you're
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xi, 467 p. : 23 cm
Kimono Jacket + FREE Sewing Pattern
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