Lo prometido es deuda... aquí traigo la receta para hacer esta capucha. Ojo: es una receta, no es el patrón vuelta por vuelta. Como saben está inspirado en la gorra Capucine, de Adela Illichmanova, pero tejido en plano y con variación en las disminuciones que forman la coronilla, es decir, más simple, imposible ;) Así que aquí vamos: Receta y PAP Capucha Mi Gauge con agujas de 6mm: 12.5p = 10cm. (con esta medida el gorro da un tamaño para niña, de entre 4-6 años, pero como saben, cambiando el gauge pueden cambiar el tamaño de la prenda, entre menos puntos en 10 cm., más grande queda) Montar 82 puntos * Tejer 4 cm. de elástico 2x2 (2der, 2rev) *Tejer en musgo (todas la vueltas de derecho) disminuyendo 2 puntos en las orillas de cada lado, sólo en las vueltas non, en esta secuencia: 1 der, 2pjd, 1 der, 2pjd, tejer todo de der hasta 6 puntos antes del final, 2pjd, 1 der, 2pjd, 1 der (las vueltas par van de der) esto hasta tener 64 p en las agujas, después continuar sin disminuir hasta completar aprox. 8 cm. del musgo. *Ahora cambiamos a jersey (1 vta de der y 1 vta de rev) y tejemos parejo por aprox. 8 cm. *Empezamos con las disminuciones: - 2pjd toda la vta - rev toda la vta Repetir estas dos vueltas hasta que en la aguja queden 8 p Se corta la hebra dejandola de aprox. 20 cm. y con una aguja estambrera la metemos por los puntos vivos. Y cerramos cosiendo sólo la parte que tejimos en jersey. Opcional: -Poner motas en los extremos y en la parte de atrás de la cabeza. ó - Poner en los extremos hebras de estambre y hacerle unas trencitas ;D Glosario: p= punto (s) der= tejer de derecho rev= tejer de revés 2pjd= tejer 2 puntos juntos de derecho (disminución) vta=vuelta (carrera) Más fotos del Paso A Paso en este album picasa :D ojalá les sirva y estén claras estas explicaciones, cualquier duda, ya saben ;) Hagan sus capuchas y me las muestran vale?

Recently, my friend's Doctor perscribed her an eye patch to wear. Its black, bulky look was none too pleasing to my friend, nor was the fit. Feeling sympathetic to her situation, I asked her if I might try and make her a patch more "fitting" to her style and needs. She complied and willingly gave me one of her current eye patches from which to make a pattern from. I disassembled her original patch and laid it out on thick, recycled card stock. I traced around it and and cut it out--making myself a pattern. I decided that two pattern pieces were needed so that any raw edge of fabric could be hidden within the patch. That being said, I traced and cut out two patches from cardstock. To make the concave nature of the patch, I cut the marked center line, making a flap. The flap got pulled over and tacked with glue. I held the flap in place with a clothes pin until I was sure the glue was dry. Once dry, I sprayed the exterior of one patch and the interior of the other, with spray adhesive. The spray glued areas had an up-cycled cardigan stretched over (or pressed in to) patch. A rough cut seam of approx. 1/8" of fabric was left around cardstock. I used my Tombow Mono Multi glue to go around the very exterior cardstock. When the Mono Multi glue dries, it's very tacky. Those raw fabric edges got turned in to the Mono glue, leaving beautiful finished edges. I attached one 16 1/2" piece of elastic to both edges of patch and sandwhiched everything together with a strong, clear, flexible glue. The eye patch came out better than I ever expected, but more importantly, my friend LOVES it! P.S. Since making the first eye patch, I've successfully made more eye patches from felted cashmere, felt and even silk! Trying something new, can be very rewarding in several aspects.

Now that we are (hopefully!) reaching the end of our patching regime in five short weeks, I thought I'd share the tutorial for making our eye patches. With the rate that we lose them, I'll probably still make half a dozen more though... Some details about the patches: They consist of three layers (snazzy outer fabric, mid to heavyweight inner fabric, and soft flannel lining). The snazzy layer is self-explanatory, the inner layer is to give the patch some rigidity and also block out light, and the flannel (I've always used black) is so there's something nice and soft on her face. These patches are designed to fit my daughter's plastic moulded frames, which don't have nose guards. The patch is hooked onto the glasses with elastic, and then is essentially held on to her face by the glasses. Make sure the glasses are well fitting, as if they slip down the nose, the patch goes with it. No peeking is the general rule when it comes to patching. There are darts so a dome is created around the eye, meaning the vision is removed but the eye can still blink normally. The patch also extends well on to the leg of the glasses. No peeking, and no giving me the side- eye. We all win. One feature of this patch that is optional is the bias binding. If you're just going to test the suitability of this type of patch, I'd do it initially with just a serged / rolled / overcast zigzag edge. Although the binding does give it a bit of stability and shape, it also adds a PITA factor of at least ten. Twenty if you use satin like me. The reason why I started binding the edges was because Maia complained that the stitching was scratchy. However... every time she complained about having to patch because of something specific, I changed it to accommodate her. Not because I am the best mum ever, but because she was going to wear that patch and there is not a complaint in the world that I will not thwart so be quiet and put your patch on. A caveat: I am not an optometrist, nor do I play one on TV. I have, however, shown these patches to our specialist who thought they were better than the cloth patches that the NHS endorse. They're bigger and firmer so there is less chance of peeking. And they've definitely worked for us, with a far better improvement in her lazy eye than they were expecting. Now that you can't sue me for this specific reason, let's go. Materials: small piece snazzy fabric, small piece mid/heavy weight fabric (I use canvas), small piece soft lining (I use flannel, and always use black), 1/4" elastic, double fold binding (I use satin because I'm a masochist, and because my daughter is a special snowflake) Here is the pattern. One of these days I'm going to figure out how to have a download-able pdf (anyone? anyone?) here. Please note that this is a patch for her left eye, if you need the right flip it for a mirror image. It is symmetrical along the horizontal fold line. Start making a fabric sandwich. Black flannel at bottom, canvas next... Fashion fabric on the top. I like cutting all of the layers together because I want them all the exact same size and shape. You will note that I also cut out the darts from the paper pattern. This is a special step for pedants who want to make sure the darts don't mess up the detail of the fabric. Lovely fabric sandwich, non-obtrusive dart placement. Baste all three layers together close to the edge. Flip it over and draw your dart lines with chalk on the lining. Pin your elastic vertically 3/4" away from each end. Baste the ends in place at your previous basting line. **If you have glasses with nose prongs, omit the elastic at the inner side and make a centred 1" buttonhole there instead. You will slip the nose prong through the buttonhole to secure the patch to the glasses. The 1" size means that the patch can still be positioned easily up or down the face to ensure full coverage. Fold your dart in half so the legs match up and stitch. Repeat for other dart. Fold the dart to the outside (i.e. towards the leg end), and stitch it down along the basting line. Repeat for other dart. Now you have a dome. Readers without special snowflakes, you can actually serge / roll hem / overcast zigzag the whole thing now and omit the hateful binding. Fold and press your binding so the bottom portion is slighty wider than your upper portion. Starting at the elastic, pin your binding all the way around. Make sure that you are catching the fold underneath too. Pulling a bit on the binding will help you round the curves. When you get back to where you started, fold the raw edge to the inside and then pin over the raw edge underneath. Start sewing just before the elastic (i.e. before the end bit that is folded over), going very slowly right at the edge of the binding on top. Remove the pins as you get close, smoosh down the darts so it's flat, leave the needle in the down position so you can pivot around the corners. Because I hate satin bias binding, and cannot for the life of me stitch it neatly at the fold, I stop just before the folded end and slip stitch the layers together. And then you're done. This is the (slightly wonky) inside. In my defense: satin bias binding. And shoulder bumps from my ingrate beloved daughter as I was trying to sew. And the outside. This is the proper way to wear the patch. The inner edge should sit on the bridge of her nose, rather than in the eye socket. The upper dart should be above the eyebrow and the lower dart on the cheek. Once those three are in position, pull the leg towards the ear to mould it to the face. This is the improper way to wear the patch. Pin It Tweet

I can finally use up all those SCRAPS! This is really, really easy, and I request right off the top that you yoink this, make these, sell these, and do whatever you can to make having to wear an eye-patch less depressing and more comfortable for people (including children) who MUST wear them. …

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