Do you have thumbs? If the answer is "yes", you can get started with nalbinding: an ancient Scandinavian knotless knitting technique!

Nalbinding stitches which I most often see people using in their items seem to be either Oslo Stitch or Mammen Stitch, but there are many others, too, and sometimes it can be confusing to try to remember all the names, or the logic of how one stitch changes to another. So, how can you tell which nalbinding stitch is which? Also connection stitches (F1, F2, B1...) are explained further below. York Stitch gets sometimes confused with Oslo Stitch. They both have 1 loop around thumb, and 1 loop behind thumb. In Oslo Stitch you insert the needle into the loop behind your thumb from front to back, while in York Stitch you insert the needle from back to front. Oslo Stitch, on the other hand, gets sometimes confused also with Mammen Stitch. They both have 1 loop around thumb, but in Oslo Stitch you pick up 1 loop behind the thumb, while in Mammen Stitch you pick up 2 loops behind the thumb. If you have a look at the numbers below each photo, you will see the first number indicates the number of thumb loops, and the second one tells how many loops are picked up behind the thumb. So in Oslo Stitch the number is 1+1, and in Mammen Stitch 1+2. The numbers also match with the Us and Os (Hansen's Notation). So, Oslo Stitch is 1+1 or UO/..., and Mammen Stitch is 1+2 or UOO/... Edit: In case you have heard about Korgen Stitch, so basically Korgen Stitch and Mammen Stitch are the same (1+2 or UOO/UUOO) but in Korgen Stitch the connection stitch is F1 and in Mammen Stitch F2. See further below for F1s and F2s. Now, if you look at the next photos after Oslo Stitch and Mammen Stitch, I hope you get the logic how the stitches can be changed/varied. Brodén Stitch - 1 thumb loop, 3 loops behind the thumb (1+3, UOOO/...). Långaryd Stitch - 1 thumb loop, 4 loops behind the thumb (1+4, UOOOO/...). Bålsta Stitch - 1 thumb loop, 5 loops behind the thumb (1+5, UOOOOO/...) The Finnish Stitch variant I have chosen here involves 2 loops around thumb and 2 loops behind the thumb (ie. 2+2, or UUOO/...). If you think it, it is almost like Mammen Stitch except that there are 2 thumb loops. There are also stitch variants which involve 2 thumb loops and 3 to 5 loops behind the thumb (ie. 2+3 or 2+4 or 2+5). Dalby Stitch is a bit different. There is 1 loop around thumb, 1 loop behind thumb is picked up from front to back (as usual), but the second loop behind the thumb is picked up from back to front (needle tip pointing to 9 o'clock *). So that would make 1+1+1 or UOU/... *) The direction matters, because if the needle tip points to the opposite direction, the stitch is one of the Turning Stitches, and the surface looks quite different, too. Turning Stitches are not included in these photos. Edit: These stitches shown here, obviously, are not the only one. The shortenings for connection stitches often seem to be a source of confusion. F = front, B = back, M = middle Edit: These are not the only ways to connect new stitches to the previous row. For example Åsle Stitch connection is not show here, and it is also possible to pick up the connection stitch from the reverse side of the fabric, like in e.g. Vad Stitch. F1 = 1 loop at the upper/top edge, from front to back F2 = 2 loops at the upper/top edge, from front to back - "1 new loop, 1 old loop" B1 = 1 loop at the upper/top edge, from back to front B2 = 2 loops at the upper/top edge, from front to back - "1 new loop, 1 old loop" M - pay attention to the direction of the needle (either ), because that changes the way the stitch surface will look like M1+F1 = 1 loop at the mid row, 1 loop at the upper/top edge F1B1 = 1 loop (new) from front to back, 1 loop (old) from back to front Left bottom corner, the blue sample, shows the F2 connection ("under x") when your stitch has the so called plaited edge (see below). On the left - "normal/usual" way of finishing the stitch On the right - "plaited edge"

Nålbinding, Danish for “needle binding,” is a method for making textiles that predates knitting and crocheting by thousands of years

A very good comment by Kareina to the previous post ("The Fny Method: Needlebinding a Sweater") made me think about the possibilities of cutting through needlebound fabric. I have previously tried cutting along the rows of stitches, which works very well! The edge stays intact and there is no need to made additional seams or anything. Very good! Now, Kareina's comment made me wonder about the possibilities of cutting not along the row of stitches, but across. For example, if it could be possible to cut an opening along the front of my newly needlebound sweater... So this evening I picked up a small patch of needlebound fabric that I made earlier (it's just a circle, nothing fancy, I made it as a test) and simply cut it in half. This is what a half looks like right after cutting it: Then I used the other half for my experiment, throwing simple saddle stitches around the length of the edge. Then I folded the edge and sewed tacking-stitches back and forth and back again. (Had this been more than just an experiment I would of course have used more proper stitches instead of tacking-stitckes, and would probably have folded it so that the raw edge is tucked in completely!). Here you see what it looks like where it's folded.... And here you see what it looks like from the front! The other half, that I didn't do anything with, isn't very durable and I can easily pull out strands from the edge. On the other hand, the half that I stitched up and folded seems to be just fine. In other words, one could actually treat the needlebound fabric more or less like a woven fabric and it would be possible to make a sweater just like I explained in the previous post, and still have it open in the front!

The last few months (since September) I've done quite a bit of nalbinding and finishing old projects. Finnish Stitch 3+3 pouch from Imperial Tracie Too sport weight yarn. (My Ravelry project page for the pouch has general instructions for making your own.) Finnish Stitch 3+3 mittens from handspun yarn - mixed batts from Moonrover and SD Natural Colored Wool Rådmansö Stitch hat from Valley Yarns Berkshire Bulky yarn Hand Warmers from Finnish Stitch 3+3 Stitch done with Imperial Yarns Tracie Too sport weight. Currently I'm working on a circular vest, inspired by the crochet pattern for the Pinwheel Sweater. Simply doing Oslo stitch to have more drape than the thicker stitches that use more loops. General crochet conversion instructions and tips for this vest are in my Ravelry project page. Has it really been that long since I posted last? Eghads! Well, to make up for that, I've updated the site quite a bit - new look, added a calendar of classes that I'm teaching, and a list of classes I have ready to go (I've had several inquiries lately and I thought this might help). (Update 12/28 - added in links to the project pages for the pouch and vest, since I'd has questions on them. The project pages have general directions for these projects, if you'd like to try to make them too.) What projects are you working on lately?

Handmade Bone Viking Nalbinding Needle in Large Size. - Very strong and durable for all nalbinding techniques. - Individually handmade from cow bone. - Length approx 14cm (5.5 inch). Called Nålbindning in the native Swedish it is also known in English as nalbinding, nalebinding, nalbindning, naalbinding, naalebinding or needle binding. Nalbinding is an ancient technique used to produce hats, socks, mittens and other woolen goods using a single short needle and lengths of woolen yarn. Although later superceded by knitting (a technique that uses 2 needles instead of one), nålbindning produces garments of a superior quality with stitches that do not run if snagged and a weave that is more dense and therefore easier to felt, providing maximum protection from cold or moisture. It is for this reason that the nalbinding technique was still used until very recently in some parts of Scandinavia and is becoming hugely popular again!

I’ve been playing with a lace pattern for the Ravelry nalbinding group’s Light and Lacy challenge and my local fiber fair’s “Silver” craft along. Third try is the bes…

Nalbinding stitches which I most often see people using in their items seem to be either Oslo Stitch or Mammen Stitch, but there are many others, too, and sometimes it can be confusing to try to remember all the names, or the logic of how one stitch changes to another. So, how can you tell which nalbinding stitch is which? Also connection stitches (F1, F2, B1...) are explained further below. York Stitch gets sometimes confused with Oslo Stitch. They both have 1 loop around thumb, and 1 loop behind thumb. In Oslo Stitch you insert the needle into the loop behind your thumb from front to back, while in York Stitch you insert the needle from back to front. Oslo Stitch, on the other hand, gets sometimes confused also with Mammen Stitch. They both have 1 loop around thumb, but in Oslo Stitch you pick up 1 loop behind the thumb, while in Mammen Stitch you pick up 2 loops behind the thumb. If you have a look at the numbers below each photo, you will see the first number indicates the number of thumb loops, and the second one tells how many loops are picked up behind the thumb. So in Oslo Stitch the number is 1+1, and in Mammen Stitch 1+2. The numbers also match with the Us and Os (Hansen's Notation). So, Oslo Stitch is 1+1 or UO/..., and Mammen Stitch is 1+2 or UOO/... Edit: In case you have heard about Korgen Stitch, so basically Korgen Stitch and Mammen Stitch are the same (1+2 or UOO/UUOO) but in Korgen Stitch the connection stitch is F1 and in Mammen Stitch F2. See further below for F1s and F2s. Now, if you look at the next photos after Oslo Stitch and Mammen Stitch, I hope you get the logic how the stitches can be changed/varied. Brodén Stitch - 1 thumb loop, 3 loops behind the thumb (1+3, UOOO/...). Långaryd Stitch - 1 thumb loop, 4 loops behind the thumb (1+4, UOOOO/...). Bålsta Stitch - 1 thumb loop, 5 loops behind the thumb (1+5, UOOOOO/...) The Finnish Stitch variant I have chosen here involves 2 loops around thumb and 2 loops behind the thumb (ie. 2+2, or UUOO/...). If you think it, it is almost like Mammen Stitch except that there are 2 thumb loops. There are also stitch variants which involve 2 thumb loops and 3 to 5 loops behind the thumb (ie. 2+3 or 2+4 or 2+5). Dalby Stitch is a bit different. There is 1 loop around thumb, 1 loop behind thumb is picked up from front to back (as usual), but the second loop behind the thumb is picked up from back to front (needle tip pointing to 9 o'clock *). So that would make 1+1+1 or UOU/... *) The direction matters, because if the needle tip points to the opposite direction, the stitch is one of the Turning Stitches, and the surface looks quite different, too. Turning Stitches are not included in these photos. Edit: These stitches shown here, obviously, are not the only one. The shortenings for connection stitches often seem to be a source of confusion. F = front, B = back, M = middle Edit: These are not the only ways to connect new stitches to the previous row. For example Åsle Stitch connection is not show here, and it is also possible to pick up the connection stitch from the reverse side of the fabric, like in e.g. Vad Stitch. F1 = 1 loop at the upper/top edge, from front to back F2 = 2 loops at the upper/top edge, from front to back - "1 new loop, 1 old loop" B1 = 1 loop at the upper/top edge, from back to front B2 = 2 loops at the upper/top edge, from front to back - "1 new loop, 1 old loop" M - pay attention to the direction of the needle (either ), because that changes the way the stitch surface will look like M1+F1 = 1 loop at the mid row, 1 loop at the upper/top edge F1B1 = 1 loop (new) from front to back, 1 loop (old) from back to front Left bottom corner, the blue sample, shows the F2 connection ("under x") when your stitch has the so called plaited edge (see below). On the left - "normal/usual" way of finishing the stitch On the right - "plaited edge"

I’m a fiber arts junkie—especially when it comes to old forms of needlework. So when I saw a woman demonstrating a technique I didn’t even recognize during a special event at Vest…

[:nl] Waarom naaldbinden? Toen wij begonnen met Byfrost hadden sommigen van ons geen idee wat onze specialiteit zou worden en net als met banen en hobby’s heb ik een aantal verschillende tech…

NOTE: This is made using the Oslo stitch in Nalbinding / Needle-binding and not crochet. Follow me on Instagram: @karin_byom to join in on the stitch-a-long next week!

Arkæologien og etnologien har været med mig de seneste år. Derfor er min påstand at Nålebindingsteknikken er lige så gammel som vævning, der kunne udvikles fra det tidspunkt hvor mennesker blev fastboende som agedyrkere og kvægavlere. De første fåreracer behøvedes ikke at blive klippet, da de selv fældede ulden, som vi kender det fra moskusokser på Grønland. I dag kender vi bl.a. til Soay-fåret fra de Ydre Hebrider og Mongoliet. At Nålebinding må være brugt af mennesker gennem mere end 100.000 år kan nu ikke være en umulig tanke, dersom der stadig bliver fremstillet bæreposer, fiskenet og andet i fx plante-materiale. Teknikken er blevet og bliver brugt jorden rundt, efterhånden som mennesker har befolket de enkelte kontinenter. Specialiseringen er dog først og fremmed nødvendiggjort af klimaet i Norden, i Skandinavien og de Baltiske områder, samt den vestlige del af Rusland. For at forgængeligt materiale som uld, pileflet og træting skal kunne overleve i flere tusind år, må der være optimale forhold, der gør, at disse ting ikke nedbrydes. The Archaeology and Ethnology has been with me for the last couple of years. My allegation is therefore: The technique of Nålebinding is just as old as weaving, which could be developed from the time where human beings became permanent settlers taking care of agriculture and livestock. The oldest race of sheep is the Soay from Outer Hebrides Islands in the Atlantic Sea west of Scotland and another race still living in Mongolia. These old races throw their wool just like the Muskox in Greenland. Nålebinding must have been used by man for more than 100.000 years, as they had the need to carry and keep various things - and furthermore you can find the technique still in use all over the world. Often it is various kinds of grasses and lianas. The special use here in the Northern Europe was necessary due to the cold climate. Unfortunately items made out of perishable materials cannot last for long as metals. This is why only a few

Mette Wikkelsø fra http://largerthanlifedress.blogspot.dk/ har mere at byde på. Denne gang fortæller hun hvordan hun laver sokker i oslosti...

2012-05-23 Sain lahjoituksena edesmenneen joutsenolaisrouvan jäämistöstä tällaisen kintaanalun ja kuparineulan, vanhoja molemmat. Lisää tekstiä kuvien alapuolella. I was given by a relative of a late woman in Joutseno (eastern Finland) this small nalbound mitten-to-be and a copper needle, both quite old. In English at the bottom.  Kintaanalku venäjäksi 2+3+3 ja kinnasneula, Joutseno A beginning of a mitten UUOOOUUU/OOOUUUOOO, and a nalbinding needle, from Joutseno, Finland Tällaisena sain nämä This is how the needle was sticked into the work Kinnasneulan toinen puoli The other side of the nalbinding needle Reunasta on poimittu 3 silmukkaa Connection stitch F3  Ensin "kahden ali"... First "under two"... Sitten "kolmen yli" (HUOM. seuraa neulan vasemmalla puolella olevaa lankaa)... Then "over three" (NOTE. See the yarn on the left of the needle)... Ja "kolmen ali"... (tämän jälkeen neulan suunta kääntyy) And "under three"... (after this the direction of the needle changes towards 2 o'clock) Kintaanalun toinen puoli The other side of the mitten-to-be Aivan kintaankärjessä on käytetty lankaa kaksinkertaisena At the very tip the yarn has been folded double Kintaanalun alakolmanneksessa on paikoitellen tasaisempia silmukoita kuin yläosassa: Kaksi eri tekijää. At the lower half of the piece there are stitches that are more even than at the upper half: Two makers. Sain hieman yllättäen lahjana tämän vanhan kuparineulan (pituus 10,8 mm, levein kohta 7 mm, paksuus 2 - 2,5 mm) sekä kintaanalun. Lahjoittaja ei tiedä onko kintaanalku hänen äitinsä tekemä (syntynyt 1920-luvulla), äidin siskon, vai kenties äidinäidin (en kysynyt tarkemmin, mutta oletettavasti syntynyt joko 1900- tai 1890-luvulla). Lahjoittaja ei muista äitinsä valmistaneen neulakintaita, mutta muistaa äidinäitinsä tehneen niitä. Tekijän tarkempi henkilöllisyys ei siis ole tiedossa, mutta tekijän voi joka tapauksessa olettaa olleen kotoisin rajan pinnasta Joutsenosta, Kaakkois-Suomesta. Kintaanalkua on tehty vain muutama kerros, ja neulakinnastekniikkana on käytetty venäläisen pujottelutavan versiota 2+3+3 (UUOOOUUU/OOOUUUOOO), jota en muista aiemmin nähneeni mainittavan muualla - tämä siis otsikossa viitattu "uutta". Kiinnostavaa on myös, että kiinnityskohdassa on poimittu kolme reunasilmukkaa tavanomaisten yhden tai kahden sijasta. Tätä kintaanalkua näyttää työstäneen kaksi eri henkilöä, toinen kokeneempi (tasaisia pistoja) ja toinen vielä opettelija (pistot epätasaisempia, työssä virheitä), joten on täysin mahdollista, että kolmen reunasilmukan kiinnitys on sekin opettelijan 'virhe'. Kintaanalku on paksu ja silmukat tiiviisti, joten en pikavilkaisulla pysty sanomaan, onko kolmen reunasilmukan kiinnitystä käytetty koko palassa vai vain osassa. Neulankärjellä lankoja sivuun vetämällä pystyy kuitenkin laskemaan, että pujottelutapaa 2+3+3 ovat joka tapauksessa käyttäneet sekä opettelija että kokeneempi tekijä. Aivan kintaan kärjessä on käytetty lankaa kaksinkertaisena, joten kärki on todella paksu ja tiivis. Lanka on 4-säikeistä villaa, S-kerrattua, paksuudeksi arvioin noin 140 tex x 4. Kuparineula oli pistetty työn läpi molemmin puolin, ja neula ollut paikoillaan niin pitkään, että lanka on niistä kohdin värjäytynyt vihertäväksi. Edit 2012-06-15: Muuta asiaa etsiessäni huomasin, että Leinosen gradussa (2000, sivu 93) on mainittu joutsenolaisen haastateltavan kohdalla tämä pujottelutapa 2+3+3. Haastateltava oli oppinut tekniikan äidiltään, joka oli syntynyt Salmissa, Laatokan pohjoispuolella Edit 2013-01-01 Suomenmuseotonline.fi -sivustoa selatessani huomasin, että eräällä sivulla mainittiin kintaan mukana olevan lapun, jossa kerrottiin valmistustapa. Kinnas on neulottu venäjäksi 2+2+3, ja kintaissa oleva paikkalappu 2+3+3. Kyseinen kinnas on peräisin Repolasta, Aunuksen Karjalasta. Repola sijaitsee Joensuusta hieman ylöspäin, Lieksan korkeudella, rajan pinnassa Venäjän puolella. In English I was given this old nalbinding needle made of copper (lenght 10.8 cm, widest part 7 mm, and thickness 2 - 2.5 mm), and a small unfinished piece of nalbinding, the top part of a mitten. The donor does not know whether this nalbinding piece was made by her mother (born in the 1920's), or her mother's sister, or her mother's mother (I didn't ask, but she was probably born in the 1900's or 1890's). The donor doesn't remember her own mother making nalbound mittens, but she does remember that her mother's mother nalbound them. Anyway, they all have lived in this same area, Joutseno, in southeastern Finland. This top part of a mitten is only a few rows, and it is made in a version of the so called Russian Stitch, UUOOOUUU/OOOUUUOOO (2+3+3), which I don't remember having seen before - thus the "New" in the title, and what I find interesting, the connection stitch seems to be F3. Though, this piece seems to have been made by two persons: one more skilful (very even stitches), and the other probably still learning (stitches not that even, and some mistakes), so the F3 could be the learner's 'mistake', too. The item is very thick and dense, so I am not able to check by a quick glance if it is F3 throughout the item, also in the stitches made by the more experienced nalbinder, or whether the more xperienced nalbinder has used F2. I am going to try to find that out, too, though. The stitch type is UUOOOUUU/OOOUUUOOO throughout the item, however, that much I was able to check by pulling the yarns aside with the needle tip. At the very tip of the mitten the maker has used doubled yarn, so the tip is even more thick and dense. The yarn is 100 % wool, light gray, 4-plied, thickness probably similarish as in 140 tex x 4. The copper needle was sticked into the work, and had stayed in its place for such a long time that it had discoloured the wool greenish. Edit 2012-06-15: While searching for something else, I noticed that this type of nalbinding technique is actually mentioned in Ms Leinonen's Master's Thesis (2000, p. 93). One of the persons she interviewed, knew this technique. The interviewee lived in Joutseno, southcarelian Finland, and her mother, who taught her to nalbind, was born in Salmi, on the north side of Lake Ladoga. Edit 2013-01-01 On the website suomenmuseotonline.fi I found a photo of a pairless nalbound mitten, and it said on the page that there was a piece of paper with the mitten, saying the mitten itself was made in Russian Stitch version 2+2+3, while the patch attached to fix the mitten was made in Russian Stitch version 2+3+3. The pairless mitten was from Repola, Olonets Carelia, ie in Russian Carelia, a bit north from (Finnish) city of Joensuu, on the same 'level' with (Finnish) city of Lieksa, just right across the border.

It's All In The Thumbs Nalbinding (also known as needle looping, needle binding, or knotless netting) is a method of creating a stretchy textile using short lengths of yarn and a single-eyed needle. Fabric is formed by looping the yarn around one’s thumb and then through at least two previously created loops, and the previous row,

Jeg er gået i gang med at lave små prøver med forskellige sting, for at kunne sammenligne sting. Jeg startede med prøver i tynd garn, men nu er jeg startet med at lave nogle af de samme sting, bare i tykkere garn, for at kunne sammenligne sting i tyk og tynd garn også :) I kan se min begyndende samling her: I've started making small stitch samples, to compare the different stitches to each other. I've started making samples in thin yarn, but now I've begun making some of the same stitches in thicker yarn, to compare the same stitches in different yarns. You can see the start of my collection here: Jeg har 12 prøver indtil videre, og samlingen bliver løbende forøget. For at se sting prøverne en for en, se fanebladet med Sting prøver / Stitch samples. I have 12 samples so far and the collection keeps getting bigger. To see the stitch samples one by one, take a look a the tap named Sting prøver / Stitch Samples.

Ruotsin digitaalisessa museossa on kuva joutsenolaisista neulakintaista, jotka on hankittu Ruotsiin vuonna 1931 (linkki). Kintaissa on kaksivärinen koristeellinen suu. (Edit: 2/2017. Alkuperäisten kintaiden värit olivat valkoinen ja kirkkaanvihreä!) In the Swedish digital museum there is a photo of a pair of nalbound mittens from Joutseno (Finland), the pair was acquired to Swedish museum in 1931 (link). The mittens have a decorative cuff worked in two colours. In English here and there below photos. (Edit: 2/2017. Original colours were white and bright green!) Neulakintaat, malli vuodelta 1931 joutsenolaisista kintaista. Nalbinding mittens, a copy of mittens from Joutseno (Finland) in 1931. Digitaalisen museon sivuilla ei ollut näistä kintaista tarkempia tietoja, esimerkiksi kintaiden kokoa. Vertasin museon kintaita omiini, muun muassa peukalonhangan ja kärjen pituutta, ja tulostin kintaiden kuva olettamassani luonnollisessa koossa. Arvioin kintaiden pituudeksi 30,5 cm. Kintaat näyttivät paperilla valtavilta! Yllättävää kyllä, valmiit kintaat eivät kädessä kuitenkaan tunnu erityisen suurilta. On the pages of Swedish digital museum there wasn't any additional information about these mittens, nothing about the size of the mittens, for example. I compared the museum mittens to my own, the distance between thumb root and mitten top, among others, and then printed out the photo of the mittens in the supposedly natural size. I estimated the length would be about 30.5 cm (12 inches). The mittens looked huge on the paper! I was a bit surprised to find that the finished mittens do not feel too large in my hands, after all. Museokintaiden kuva tulostettuna oletetussa luonnollisessa koossa. Photo of the museum mittens printed out in the presumed natural size. Neulakinnaspistoksi valitsin suomeksi 2+3 F2 rannekkeen koristekuvioiden vertailun perusteella, ja työskentelin tasona ilman peukalosilmukoita. I chose to use Finnish Stitch UUOOO/UUUOOO F2, based on the two-coloured decorations on the cuff, and I did not use thumb loops but worked flat. Neulakintaat aluillaan, alla tulostettu kuva alkuperäisestä kintaasta. Starting the project, a printed picture of one of the the original mittens. Rannekkeen koristekuvion alku. Beginnin the two-coloured decoraction of the cuff. Alkuperäinen ranneke ja kopio. The original cuff and the copy of it. Neulakintaat, kopio joutsenolaisista kintaista vuodelta 1931. Nalbound mittens, copied from mittens from Joutseno (Finland), in 1931. Tavallisesti pesen valmiit neulakintaat, huovutan kevyesti ja harjaan sisäpuolen pörröiseksi. Neulakintaiden kiertymisen pesussa olen huomannut aikaisemminkin - joskus näyttää kuin pesusta olisi tullut kaksi saman käden kinnasta, ja kintaita saa käännellä ja venytellä ennen niiden asettamista kuivumaan. Pyöreäkärkisissä kintaissa kiertymisellä ei juuri ole suurta merkitystä. Näissä kintaissa on kulmikas kärki, joten kiertymisen määrä on helppo havaita. Kintaat on aloitettu kärjestä. Peukaloaukon aloitin kummassakin kintaassa tasan reunasta (tai päätin tasan reunaan). Vasemman käden kintaan peukalo (kuvassa) on pesussa kiertynyt hieman liikaa kohti kämmentä venyttelyistä ja asetteluista huolimatta, ja se vetää kintaankärjen vinoon, kun kinnas on kädessä. Oikean käden kintaan peukalo (ei kuvaa) on vastaavasti kiertynyt hieman liikaa kämmenselän puolelle. Jos vielä teen kulmikaskärkisiä kintaita, aion kokeilla vasemman kintaan peukaloaukon siirtämistä pari kolme silmukkaa sivutaitteesta kämmenselän puolella ja oikean käden peukaloaukon siirtämistä saman verran kohti kämmentä tai mahdollisesti päättämistä tasan reunaan, kuten näissäkin kintaissa - oikean käden kinnas nimittäin istuu käteen suht hyvin näinkin. Suurin kiertymä on kintaansuussa. Vihreä nuoli osoittaa kohdan, johon päättelin viimeisen kerroksen. Punainen katkoviiva ja rasti osoittavat kohdan, jonne päätelty kohta on siirtynyt. Kiertymää on kintaansuussa siis noin 4-5 cm! Jos etenkin pitkävartisissa neulakintaissa haluaa päättelykohdan pysyvän ranteen sisäpuolella pesun/huovutuksen jälkeenkin, kannattanee viimeinen kerros päätellä vasemmassa kintaassa reilusti lähemmäs peukalon reunaa ja oikeassa kintaassa lähemmäs pikkusormen reunaa. Nuolet osoittavat pesun jälkeisen kiertymisen. Arrows mark the places where the twisting caused by washing can be seen. Usually I wash the finished nalbinding mittens and felt them slightly, and also brush the insides fluffy afterwards. Nalbinding mittens tend to twist in washing - sometimes I seem to have two mittens of the same hand, and I have to stretch them before setting them to dry. With mittens with round top the twisting is not really an issue, though. These mittens have a square top so the amount twisting is easy to detect. I started these mittens at the top. The hole/slit for thumb was placed right at the edge/side in both mittens. In the left hand mitten (on the photo above) the thumb has twisted slightly too much towards the palm. That causes the mitten top to twist when you wear the mitten. In the right hand mitten (no photo) the thumb has twisted slightly too much towards to back of the hand. If I am yet to make another pair of mittens with square top, I will probably try to position the thumb hole of the left hand mitten two or three stitches on the side of the back of the hand (instead of being straight at the side), and respectively the thumb hole in the right hand mitten two or three stitches towards the palm, or possibly leaving the right hand thumb hole as it is in these mittens, right at the side - that is because the right hand mitten fits hand pretty nicely after all. The greatest amount of twist is in the cuff edge. The green arrow points the place where I finished the last row. The red dotted line and the red x mark how much the cuff has twisted in washing - that is 4 to 5 cm! In case you are making long-cuffed nalbinding mittens, and you want the finishing point to stay on the inner wrist side of the mittens even after washing and/or felting, it is probably best to finish the last row nearer the thumb in the left hand mitten, and nearer the little finger in the right hand mitten. Yksi tapa sulkea peukalon kärki. One way to close the top of the thumb. #78

Ce blog a pour but de mettre en ligne mes recherches et mes conclusion concernant les costumes et les techniques pour la reconstitution de différentes périodes, dans le cadre d'associations de reconstitution.

Nalbinding workshop We teach an ancient technique that predates knitting and crochet. You can make for example following items using nalbinding: socks, mittens, hats, mobile bags, even sweaters and…

Nålbinding is how Viking Age people made hats, socks, mittens, and sieves for straining liquids more than a thousand years ago.