Microbial Fertilizer Rubber Tree - Microbebio

About this item Humic Acid Blend: Concentrated Liquid Carbon Derived from the Highest Quality Humate Source Perk up your Lawn, Garden, and Houseplants: Use alongside your current liquid or granular fertilizer program. Can Be Used On All Grass types: Including Bermuda, St. Augustine, Zoysia, Buffalo, Centipede, Florida Palmetto, Bahia, Fescue, Ryegrass & Kentucky Bluegrass Application Rates for Garden: Use on Indoor Plants, Flowers, Tomato Plants, Vegetables, Fruit, Citrus, Garden Landscape, Hardy trees, Seeding, Over seeding and New sod Used on Commercial Agriculture and Turf: Manufactured in the United States, Root Hume has been used by Farmers and Professionals all over the world Produced In The USA: Root Hume is Manufactured in the United States of America, by a Family Owned Business with over 25 Years of Former Experience in the Commercial Professional Turf and Agriculture Industry. Concentrated Liquid Humic Solution: Root Hume Should Be Applied Using a Hose-end Sprayer, Backpack Sprayer, Spray Tank or Pump-up Sprayer When Applying Solution To a Lawn or Watering Can When Applying To Plants. Can Be Used Alongside Fertilizer Program: Can Be Used With Your Current Plant Food, Garden Fertilizer & Turf Grass Fertilizer Program

Organic SoilsOrganic Fertilizer Looking for a specific product? Kellogg Garden OrganicsG&B Organics Search for a retailer near you Soil Calculator G&B ORGANICS EDEN VALLEY BLEND GARDEN SOIL An expertly blended garden soil for planting flowers and vegetables in flower beds or gardens. Premium all-purpose garden soil for fruits, vegetables, flowers & plants Includes specialized mycorrhizae to enhance root system growth Made with natural yucca-based wetting agent for greater moisture retention Ingredients: Recycled forest products, coir, rice hulls, chicken manure, bat guano, peat moss, dried poultry litter, hydrolyzed feather meal, bone meal, seabird guano, kelp meal, worm castings, alfalfa meal, dried sardine meal, crab meal, kapok seed meal, oyster shell & dolomite limes (as pH adjusters). Contains 0.6% Humic Acid from Leonardite G&B ORGANICS EDEN VALLEY BLEND GARDEN SOIL is our premium garden soil made from some of the most unique ingredients to give your plants the pampering they love. Ingredients like bat guano, seabird guano, crab meal and worm castings provide a five-star nutrient meal for your garden. Mix with your native soil and let G&B ORGANICS EDEN VALLEY BLEND GARDEN SOIL work its magic! Proven Organic All of our products are listed by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI), the leading non-profit, internationally recognized third party accredited by the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP). That means every ingredient and every process that goes into making our products has been verified 100% compliant as organic, all the way to the original source. Look for the OMRI logo on the bag, ensuring every product is proven organic. APPLICATION RATE: 2.0 CF – Transplants 4-5 one gal. plants or: amends 20 sq ft

Revised by David H. Trinklein Division of Plant Sciences To many people, a home is not complete without attractive potted plants. Proper care of houseplants helps increase satisfaction and enjoyment from them and extends the blooming period of many flowering plants. Most potted plants purchased from a florist have been grown in greenhouses under ideal conditions. When they are placed in home environments designed for people, not plants, they need good care to adjust to the new environment. | Revised by David H. Trinklein Division of Plant Sciences To many people, a home is not complete without attractive potted plants. Proper care of houseplants helps increase satisfaction and enjoyment from them and extends the blooming period of many flowering plants. Most potted plants purchased from a florist have been grown in greenhouses under ideal conditions. When they are placed in home environments designed for people, not plants, they need good care to adjust to the new environment. Watering Houseplants are probably killed or injured more often by improper watering than by any other single factor. No general schedule can be used for watering all houseplants. Size of plant, pot, light, temperature, humidity and other conditions influence the speed with which the soil mass dries out. When to water In general, flowering plants need more water than foliage plants of the same size. Never water any plant unless it needs it. Soil kept either too wet or too dry causes plant roots to die, which leads to poor growth or death of the plant. Never allow plants to wilt, and never allow them to stand in water for long periods of time. Learn to gauge the moisture content of the soil by its color and feel. As the soil surface dries, it becomes lighter. Under continued drying, the soil begins to crack and pull away from the sides of the pot. When severe drying occurs, some damage already will have been done to the roots. Soil kept too moist becomes sticky and slimy, thus inviting root rots and other disease problems. Kinds of water Ordinary tap or well water is usually satisfactory for plants. Chlorine and fluorine often added to city water do not harm plants. Rainwater and melted snow are excellent water sources. Water run through most water softeners, however, should not be used continuously for watering potted plants. How to water Plants may be watered from either the top or the bottom of the pot. If you prefer watering from the top, use a watering can with a small spout and keep as much water off the foliage as possible. Each time, wet the entire soil mass, not just the top inch. Add water until it comes through the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. Discard water that remains beneath the pot one hour after watering. Watering from the bottom ensures thorough wetting of the soil mass. Place the pot in a pan or saucer filled with water, or dunk the pot to just below its rim in a deep bucket of water. When the top of the soil becomes moist, the entire soil ball should be wet. Remove the pot, allow it to drain, and return it to the saucer. Salts may form a white accumulation on the soil surface if plants are watered regularly from the bottom. Occasional watering from the top helps wash out the salts. Don’t allow the soil to reabsorb any water that has been run through the soil to leach out salts. If surface salt accumulation becomes too heavy to remove in this way, scrape off the surface soil and replace it with fresh soil. Try not to injure plant roots. Drainage Potted plants should always have good drainage. Occasionally, the drainage hole may become clogged by roots. Check it by pushing a finger, stick or pencil into it. Even if drainage from the pot is good, pot coverings can hold water. Pots wrapped in waterproof foil or placed in deep planters should be checked occasionally for standing water. Plants with “wet feet” soon look sick — leaves yellow or drop, flowers collapse, and normally healthy white roots turn brown. Any or all of these symptoms can result from stagnation of the water, too little soil oxygen and development of diseases that rot the roots. Lighting Improper light intensity ranks close to improper watering as a frequent cause for failure with houseplants. A plant in proper light is better able to withstand the high temperature and low humidity of many homes. The amount of light necessary for good growth varies with different types of plants (Figure 1). Figure 1 Chinese evergreen is one of many foliage plants adapted to conditions in the home.   Flowering plants All flowering plants need moderately bright light. Plants kept continuously in poor light will have spindly shoots, few flowers, yellow foliage, poor flower color and, often, little or no growth. South, east or west windows are excellent for most flowering potted plants, with the possible exception of African violets and related plants, which prefer a north window. Plants in bloom should be kept out of direct sunlight or the flowers will heat excessively and collapse more quickly. Light in the average room, away from windows, is not bright enough for most flowering plants, even when ceiling fixtures are kept on. Fluorescent lights located fairly close to houseplants will improve growth of plants that cannot be placed close to windows. When using artificial lights, place them about one foot above the top of the plant and keep them on for about 16 hours each day. The effects of insufficient light cannot be cured by extra fertilizer, water or repotting. Foliage plants Foliage plants are generally divided into those suitable for low-light areas, moderate-light areas and bright-light areas. Only a few plants can tolerate dimly lit room interiors. Most foliage plants do well with light at a north window, daylight with no direct sun, or sunlight diffused through a lightweight curtain. Plants that require full sunlight should be put in a south window. Plants can become acclimated to a location. An abrupt move from a low-light to a bright-light location may be damaging. Leaves gradually face toward light for maximum light absorption, especially in low-light areas. Moving a plant disrupts this orientation and causes the plant to use light less efficiently for a period of time. This is especially true of large plants. Abruptly moving a plant to more intense light — especially direct sunlight — results in bleaching or burning of foliage. Any lighting changes should be made gradually. Many plants can be kept from getting one-sided by turning them once a week. Temperature Proper temperatures for plants are often hard to find in the house. A hot, dry atmosphere shortens the life of flowers. Flowering potted plants do best in temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees F during the day and 55 to 60 degrees F at night. To extend the bloom of flowering potted plants in the home, move them to a cool spot at night. Foliage plants are more tolerant of high temperatures, but they thrive at temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees F. In winter, the temperature near windows may be cooler than elsewhere in the house. If drapes are drawn around a plant placed near a window, the temperature may be too cool. On cold nights, check temperatures close to windows. Some tropical foliage plants can be injured by temperatures below 40 degrees F. Do not put plants at windows that have hot air registers or radiators directly below them. Hot air blowing on a plant often causes leaves to brown on the edges and, occasionally, to drop or die. Humidity Air in most modern homes is extremely dry during the winter. A furnace or room humidifier can help plant growth. If a humidifier cannot be used, watertight trays placed beneath the plants and filled with constantly moist sand or gravel help increase humidity around the plants. Pots must be placed on, not in, the wet sand or gravel. Misting over the leaves daily can help a plant overcome the stress of low humidity. Plants needing constant high humidity, such as orchids or gardenias, are best kept in kitchens or bathrooms, where humidity often runs higher. A relative humidity between 40 and 60 percent is best for most plants but is difficult to attain indoors. Fertilizing Newly purchased plants have been well fertilized in the greenhouse. They seldom need additional fertilizer for a few weeks. Plants that will be discarded after flowering will not benefit from being fertilized. Plants that will be kept should be put on a regular fertilization program. When to fertilize Fertilizing once a month is adequate for most houseplants that are producing new growth or flowers. However, plants do not need fertilizer in winter when no new growth is apparent. Do not use fertilizer to stimulate new growth on a plant located in poor growing conditions. Lack of growth is more often due to improper light or watering than to nutritional deficiencies. In such cases, adding fertilizer may actually cause additional injury. Drop of lower leaves, overall yellow-green color or weak growth may indicate a need for fertilization. However, these same symptoms may result from poor light or overwatering, so evaluate all conditions before fertilizing more than normal. Kinds of fertilizers Water-soluble, complete fertilizers formulated for houseplants are available from many garden shops, florists and nurseries. They are easy to use. Formulations vary, so be sure to follow directions carefully. Do not apply more than directed. The roots of potted plants are quite restricted and easily burned by the application of too much fertilizer at one time. Never apply liquid fertilizers to a wilted plant. Water the plant first, and apply fertilizer after the plant has recovered and the soil has dried slightly. Soluble fertilizers such as 20-20-20 may also be used for fertilizing houseplants. Make a solution by mixing 1-1/2 teaspoons of this material in 1 gallon of water. Some people prefer to use organic fertilizers for houseplants, but either an organic or inorganic fertilizer or a combination of both will be a satisfactory source of nutrients. Fertilizers that release nutrients slowly or over a long time period require less frequent application than liquid forms. They are available in beads, pills, spikes and other forms. Never exceed amounts suggested by the manufacturer’s directions. Repotting Plants just brought home from the greenhouse seldom need immediate repotting. Many will not require potting for some time. A newly acquired plant must make adjustments to its new environment, and repotting immediately puts added strain on the plant. A time for repotting is when the plant becomes pot-bound, this is, when the plant’s roots are too extensive for its pot. A pot-bound plant may need to be watered too frequently and may grow poorly. A good potting mixture for most houseplants consists of a blend of three parts sphagnum peat, one part vermiculite and one part perlite. Many commercially available peat-lite mixes are ideal for houseplants. Exceptions are epiphytic orchids, which should be potted in a very porous medium such as orchid bark, and cacti, which should be potted in equal parts of peat-lite mix and sterile sand. In most cases, avoid the addition of soil to a potting medium, as this often leads to poor drainage, overwatering and root diseases. Acid-loving plants such as azaleas and gardenias should have at least 50 percent peat moss or other organic material in the soil mixture. With good care, these plants can be grown successfully in peat moss with no soil added. To avoid contamination by insects, diseases and weed seeds, sterilize soil mixes before using them. One sterilization method is to moisten the soil, cover it with aluminum foil to keep it from drying out while being heated, and place it in a 200-degree F oven for about 30 minutes or until it is heated through. Chemicals for soil sterilization can also be purchased. When repotting, avoid excessive damage to the root system. Firm the soil gently around the root ball, but do not press so hard that the soil becomes compacted. Allow enough space at the top of the pot so that water can be added easily. Water newly potted plants thoroughly, drain, and do not water again until necessary. Insects and diseases Watch new plants carefully for development of insect or disease problems. If detected early, these problems often can be corrected easily before serious damage is done. If undetected or ignored, they may become difficult to control. The three most common and difficult houseplant pests are spider mites, scales and mealy bugs. Figures 2, 3 and 4 describe other problems commonly associated with certain species of houseplants. Figure 2 Brown leaf tips is a typical symptom of fluoride toxicity, a physiological disorder common in members of the lily family such as Spathiphyllum.   Figure 3 Plants such as Saintpaulia can suffer chill injury when their leaf temperature fluctuates suddenly. Keep such plants away from cold drafts and use water that is room temperature when watering.   Figure 4 Some interior plants such as Dieffenbachia contain calcium oxalate, which is a known toxin. Take special precautions when using these plants in homes with children.   Summer care During the summer, many houseplants can be revitalized if placed outdoors. Do not rush the plants outside too early in the spring. Late May is usually soon enough. Cool nights may injure some plants. First, place the plants in a sheltered spot on a porch, beneath a tree or behind shrubs close to the house on a mild day, preferably when the weather is cloudy. After about one week of this adjustment, they may be moved to a more exposed but sheltered spot for the rest of the summer. Plants with large leaves should be placed where they are protected from the wind because their leaves are easily torn. Potted plants dry rapidly outdoors. Submerging the pots in soil can reduce watering frequency, as well as keep the pots from falling over. Lift each pot occasionally to keep roots from growing out of its drainage hole and to prevent the plant from becoming established outdoors. Fertilize monthly, and check occasionally for insects or diseases that may attack the plants outdoors. Move plants indoors by mid-September before cool weather returns. Durable houseplants Although all houseplants grow best with good care, a few tolerate abuse better than others. Some of the most durable houseplants are: Snake plant (Sansevieria trifaciata) Heart-leaf philodendron (Philodendron scandens) Golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) Corn plant (Dracaena fragrans) Janet Craig dracaena (Dracaena deremensis) Baby rubber plant (Peperomia obtusifolia) Cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) Parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans) Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum) Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) Diagnosing cultural problems Problems resulting from poor growing conditions in the home are difficult to diagnose. Often poor growth results from a combination of several unfavorable factors. See Table 1 for the most favorable cultural conditions for various common houseplants. The following list describes symptoms and causes of several cultural problems. Lower leaves turn yellow and drop when touched Usually caused by overwatering May occur when a new plant is moved from a greenhouse to a low-light, low-humidity environment Yellowing and dropping of leaves at various levels on a plant Overwatering Poor drainage Tight soil Chilling Gas fumes Tips or margins of leaves appear burned, brown or both Too much fertilizer Plant too dry for a short period of time Plant exposed to too low temperature for short period Use of softened water New leaves are small Soil too dry for long periods Poorly drained soil Tight soil mixture New leaves with long internodes Not enough light Temperature too high Leaves yellow or light green, weak growth Too much light Poor root system — possibly from poor drainage, overwatering or tight soi Cultural preferences of plants often grown in the home African violet, Saintpaulia 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Easy to maintain Amaryllis 55 degrees at night Bright light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Aluminum plant (related pileas) 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Easy to maintain Arrowhead, Nephthytis 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Easy to maintain Asparagus fern, Plumosus 50 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Easy to maintain Australian tree fern 65 degrees at night Filtered light Thoroughly wet Challenging to maintain Begonia (many types) 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Bromeliads 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Burn plant, Aloe 55 degrees at night Bright light Drench, then dry Easy to maintain Cactus (desert types) 65 degrees at night Bright light Drench, then dry Easy to maintain Cast iron plant, Aspidistra 50 degrees at night No direct sun Evenly moist Easy to maintain Chinese evergreen, Aglaonema 65 degrees at night No direct sun Evenly moist Easy to maintain Coral berry 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Croton 65 degrees at night Bright light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Cyclamen 50 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Cymbidium orchid 55 degrees at night Filtered to bright light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Dieffenbachia, Dumb cane 65 degrees at night Filtered light Drench, then dry Moderately easy to maintain Dracaena, Corn plant, Ti plant (related types) 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Easy to maintain Dwarf orange, other citrus 55 degrees at night Bright light Drench, then dry Challenging to maintain Dwarf schefflera 65 degrees at night Bright light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain English ivy, Hedera 50 degrees at night Bright light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Episcia, flame flower 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Ferns (many types) 55 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Fiddleleaf fig 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Fuschia, Lady's eardrops 55 degrees at night No direct sun Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Gardenia 65 degrees at night Bright light Evenly moist Challenging to maintain German ivy 60 degrees at night Filtered to bright light Drench, then dry Moderately easy to maintain Gloxinia 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Hibiscus 65 degrees at night Bright light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Holiday cactus 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Hydrangea 55 degrees at night Bright light Thoroughly wet, Moderately easy to maintain Jade plant, Crassula 65 degrees at night Bright light Drench, then dry Moderately easy to maintain Kalanchoe 55 degrees at night Bright light Drench, then dry Moderately easy to maintain Maidenhair fern, Adiantum 65 degrees at night No direct sun Thoroughly wet Moderately easy to maintain Moses-in-the-cradle, Rhoeo 55 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Norfolk Island pine 55 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Orchid (Cattleya types) 55 degrees at night Filtered light Drench, then dry Moderately easy to maintain Palms 65 degrees at night No direct sun Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Peace lily, Spathiphyllum 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Peperomia, pepper face 65 degrees at night Filtered light Drench, then dry Easy to maintain Philodendron (many types) 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Easy to maintain Poinsettia 65 degrees at night Bright light Drench, then dry Moderately easy to maintain Podocarpus 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Ponytail palm 65 degrees at night Filtered to bright light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Pothos, devil's ivy 65 degrees at night Filtered light Drench, then dry Easy to maintain Prayer plant, Maranta 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Rubber plant, Ficus 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Sago palm, Cycad 55 degrees at night Filtered light Drench, then dry Moderately easy to maintain Schefflera, Umbrella tree 65 degrees at night Bright light Drench, then dry Moderately easy to maintain Sedums 55 degrees at night Bright light Drench, then dry Moderately easy to maintain Shrimp plant 55 degrees at night Bright light Drench, then dry Moderately easy to maintain Snake plant, Sansevieria 65 degrees at night Filtered to bright light Drench, then dry Easy to maintain Spider plant, Chlorophytum 50 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Easy to maintain Spineless yucca 65 degrees at night Bright light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Split-leaf philodendron 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Swedish ivy 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Easy to maintain Velvet plant, Gynura 65 degrees at night Bright light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Wax plant, Hoya 65 degrees at night Filtered light Drench, then dry Moderately easy to maintain Wandering Jew, Tradescantia 55 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Easy to maintain Weeping fig, Ficus 65 degrees at night Bright light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain Zebra plant, Aphelandra 65 degrees at night Filtered light Evenly moist Moderately easy to maintain

AI-Enhanced Models for Efficient Composting and Soil Health Monitoring One key region that has received critical consideration is the administration of natural waste and the enhancement of soil wellbeing. Treating the soil, a characteristic course of disintegration, has for quite some time been perceived as a successful method for changing natural waste into supplement-rich soil revisions. Be that as it may, conventionally treating the soil cycle can be a concentrated and tedious task, frequently requiring broad checking and manual adjustments to accomplish ideal circumstances.  This is where simulated AI-enhanced models for efficient composting, soil health monitoring, and soil wellbeing checking become possibly the most important factors. By utilizing progressed information investigation, AI, and IoT (Web of Things) advances, these models can upset how we approach treating the soil and the executives, making them more productive, financially savvy, and harmless to the ecosystem arrangements.   Simulated AI-Enhanced Models for Efficient Composting and Soil Health Monitoring  Treating the soil is a complicated cycle that includes the breakdown of natural matter by different microorganisms. Factors, for example, temperature, dampness, oxygen levels, and carbon-to-nitrogen (C/N) proportions, all play an essential role in determining the success and proficiency of the fertilization of the soil cycle. Customary fertilizing techniques frequently depend on manual checking and changes, which can be tedious and inclined to human blunder. Man-made intelligence-improved models for proficiently fertilizing the soil address these difficulties by integrating sensor-based information assortment, AI calculations, and ongoing dynamic capacities. These models can persistently screen the fertilizing of the soil climate, examine the information, and make computerized changes by improving the cycle.  One of the vital benefits of computer-based intelligence-improved models for productively fertilizing the soil is their capacity to anticipate the ideal circumstances for decay. By dissecting verifiable information and continuous sensor readings, these models can expect changes in temperature, dampness, and other basic boundaries, considering proactive acclimations to keep up with the ideal circumstances for microbial movement. This can prompt quicker decay rates, greater manure, and diminished squander.   Besides, simulated intelligence-upgraded models can likewise give important insights into the creation of the natural matter being treated in the soil. By utilizing spectroscopic investigation and other high-level methods, these models can distinguish the particular sorts of natural mixtures present and their relative extents. This data can then be utilized to tweak the soil interaction, guaranteeing a reasonable and supplement-rich soil change. Computer-based intelligence Upgraded Models for Soil Wellbeing Checking  Soil wellbeing is a critical consideration in feasible horticulture, as it directly influences the efficiency and strength of harvest frameworks. Checking and keeping up with soil wellbeing, nonetheless, can be a complex and concentrated task, requiring broad soil inspection, research center investigation, and understanding of information.  Simulated intelligence-improved models for soil well-being checking offer a more proficient and exhaustive way to deal with soil executives. These models use a mix of remote detection, IoT-empowered soil sensors, and AI calculations to give constant bits of knowledge about the physical, substance, and natural properties of the dirt. One of the vital advantages of man-made intelligence-upgraded models for soil well-being checking is their capacity to distinguish and follow changes in soil conditions after some time. By constantly gathering and breaking down information from an organization of soil sensors, these models can recognize early indications of soil debasement, supplement consumption, or the presence of unsafe microorganisms or bugs. This data can then be utilized to execute designated mediations, like the use of manure or the change of cultivating practices, to keep up with and further develop soil wellbeing. Furthermore, man-made intelligence-improved models for soil well-being observation can likewise assist with recognizing the most reasonable harvests or yield turns for a specific soil type and environment. By examining the dirt's supplement structure, dampness levels, and other key boundaries, these models can give proposals on the ideal harvest decisions and the board procedures to guarantee ideal harvest yields and soil wellbeing. Combination of simulated intelligence-upgraded models for treating the soil and soil wellbeing  The combination of simulated intelligence-upgraded models for proficiently treating the soil and soil well-being checking can create a synergistic environment that improves the general manageability of horticultural frameworks. By consolidating these two methodologies, ranchers and land supervisors can accomplish a more comprehensive and productive way to deal with natural waste administration and soil well-being streamlining. For instance, computer-based intelligence-upgraded models for proficiently fertilizing the soil can give excellent fertilizer that can be utilized to further develop the dirt's physical, compound, and natural properties. The man-made intelligence-improved models for soil well-being observing can then give continuous information on the effects of this fertilizer application, taking into account the adjusting of the fertilizing cycle and the enhancement of soil the executives rehearse. Moreover, the coordination of these simulated intelligence-improved models can likewise work with the execution of accurate farming procedures, where the use of data sources (e.g., composts, pesticides) is custom-fitted to the particular necessities of the dirt and yield prerequisites. By utilizing the bits of knowledge given by these models, ranchers can decrease the utilization of engineered inputs, limit natural effects, and improve the general supportability of their agrarian tasks. Difficulties and Contemplations  While the execution of simulated intelligence-upgraded models for productive fertilizing the soil and soil wellbeing checking holds incredible commitment, there are a few difficulties and contemplations that should be tended to:  Information quality and accessibility: The precision and adequacy of these artificial intelligence-upgraded models are intensely subject to the quality and accessibility of the information they get. Guaranteeing the dependability and consistency of sensor information, as well as incorporating different information sources, is vital for the models to give exact and solid bits of knowledge. Network safety and information security:  As these models depend on the assortment and handling of a lot of information, there are worries about network protection and information protection. Powerful information safety efforts and clear information administration approaches should be set up to safeguard delicate data and keep up with the trust of ranchers and land chiefs. Reception and versatility:  The fruitful execution of artificial intelligence-upgraded models for treating soil and soil well-being checking requires the reception and incorporation of innovations by ranchers and land directors. Addressing obstructions to reception, like expense, mechanical education, and the requirement for foundations, is fundamental for these models to have a far-reaching influence. Administrative and strategy contemplations: The mix of computer-based intelligence-improved models for treating the soil and soil wellbeing observed may raise administrative and strategy concerns, especially around the utilization of information, the use of man-made intelligence-controlled independent direction, and the expected effect on existing farming practices. Drawing in policymakers and administrative specialists is essential to guaranteeing the mindful and moral turn of events and the arrangement of these advancements.  Conclusions  The execution of simulated intelligence-upgraded models for productive fertilizing and soil well-being checking holds huge potential for changing how we approach natural waste administration and reasonable farming. By utilizing progressed information examination, AI, and IoT advances, these models can streamline the fertilizing-soil interaction, upgrade soil wellbeing, and support the general manageability of horticultural frameworks. As the worldwide interest in food keeps developing, the requirement for imaginative and proficient arrangements in rural areas has become progressively greater. The mix of man-made intelligence-upgraded models for treating the soil and soil well-being checking can assume a pivotal role in tending to these difficulties, prompting further developed asset usage, decreased ecological effects, and improved food security. By embracing these upgraded models of artificial intelligence, ranchers, land chiefs, and policymakers can cooperate to construct an additional supportable and strong farming future that is established in the standards of ecological stewardship and the dependable utilization of innovation.

Landowners who are managing their land for white-tailed deer may consider planting food plots to provide a supplemental food source. Food plots should never be considered a substitute for managing the native vegetation to provide quality food sources. In situations where food plots would contribute to deer management objectives, the plots need to be established and maintained properly. | White-tailed deer management This deer conservation guide is one in a series developed jointly by MU Extension and the Missouri Department of Conservation. Robert A. Pierce II Fisheries and Wildlife State Specialist School of Natural Resources Emily Flinn Resource Scientist Missouri Department of Conservation Paul Lowry and Brad Mormann Private Land Conservationists Missouri Department of Conservation Landowners who are managing their land for white-tailed deer may consider planting food plots to provide a supplemental food source (Figure 1). On some properties, establishing and maintaining food plots can provide supplemental food and nutrition for deer, but food plots should never be considered a substitute for managing the native vegetation to provide quality food sources. In situations where food plots would contribute to deer management objectives, the plots need to be established and maintained properly. Figure 1. Food plots can provide supplemental food sources for deer.   Deer nutrition Deer are selective browsers; therefore, a variety of foods make up their diet, including broad-leaved herbaceous plants (forbs), woody plants, grasses, mast (acorns, fruits and berries) and mushrooms. No one food dominates a deer’s diet throughout the year because deer select foods based on plant availability, palatability and nutritional content, all of which vary throughout the year. The nutritional needs of deer also vary throughout the year. During the spring and summer, pregnant and lactating does and antler-growing bucks need more protein in their diets. During the fall and winter, deer have greater energy demands and therefore need more carbohydrates. Food plots can be planted to provide supplemental nutrition during times of stress, such as when does are pregnant or lactating and when bucks are growing antlers. Stress periods often coincide with times of the year when native vegetation is lacking or poor in quality, typically from late summer to early fall and from mid- to late winter. Refer to MU Extension publication G9487, Nutritional Requirements of White-tailed Deer in Missouri, for more complete information on deer nutrition. Food plot considerations Before establishing a food plot for deer, consider these questions as you determine what is best for your property: What management objectives will a food plot accomplish on your property? Will the forage be available during stress periods and provide nutritional benefits? Will the forage benefits justify the required costs and effort? What areas on the property are good locations for food plots? Are deer likely to use the food plot? Do you have the necessary equipment to establish and manage food plots? Set objectives In most cases, managing existing native vegetation is a more practical and cost-effective way to increase the quantity and nutritional quality of available forage, as establishing and maintaining food plots can be expensive. However, if food plots are warranted, the first step is to determine the objectives for the food plots, as the objectives will guide all of the establishment and management decisions. In addition to providing supplemental nutrition during stress periods, food plots can be established to to improve hunting or viewing opportunities, or to alter deer movement patterns. Determine the cost Establishing and managing a food plot requires a financial investment. Depending on the objectives, establishing a food plot can cost up to $200 an acre in seed, herbicide, fertilizer and lime, in addition to the costs for equipment, labor and fuel. The expense of managing a food plot from year to year will vary based on its size, annual fertility needs, weed control and the seed planted. If properly managed, some food plots may provide supplemental nutrition for over three years. The cost of food plot establishment can be reduced in various ways. Cost-saving possibilities include partnering with nonprofit wildlife organizations that may provide seeds for planting, buying seed in bulk as a group of landowners or a cooperative, or working with a neighboring landowner and sharing equipment that can be used in establishing the plots. Identify the location Areas where deer travel and areas near habitats that provide protective cover are ideal locations for food plots. Food plots can also be established in woodland openings or adjacent to forest edges, idle areas or open fields. Other possible food plot locations include along rights of way, logging decks, fire lines and woodland roads (Figure 2). Food plots are commonly established adjacent to a forested edge. These areas can be made even more attractive to deer and other wildlife through the development of a transition zone or field border with edge feathering or shrubs (Figure 3). Because of the possibility of increased poaching or deer-vehicle accidents, a food plot should not be located next to a public road. Also, to prevent unnecessary issues with neighboring landowners and hunters, avoid planting a food plot along a property boundary.   Figure 2. Woodland openings, logging roads and right-of-ways provide excellent locations for establishing food plots.     Figure 3. When establishing a food plot along a woodland edge, locate it 30 to 50 feet from the tree line and conduct edge feathering practices to allow a soft edge and transition zone of forbs, shrubs and vines to develop around it.   Consider size and shape Topography and the surrounding habitat will dictate the type and amount of acreage that should be planted to a food plot. However, evenly distributing food plots over 2 to 5 percent of a property, using a combination of warm- and cool-season forages is generally recommended.  Recommended sizes vary from ½ to 5 acres depending on the forages being used and the configuration of the property. Generally, larger food plots of 3 to 5 acres are more beneficial for deer. Smaller food plots can be useful but tend to produce less forage due to browsing pressure and shading. Food plots larger than 5 acres can be designed with corridors or hedgerows of trees planted at 50-yard intervals to create visual breaks and provide screening cover (Figure 4). The size of a food plot may also be determined by access, size of equipment or location on the property. For example, small isolated fields may be available, but poor access limits the size of equipment that can reach them. Smaller equipment, such as an all-terrain or utility-terrain vehicle (ATV or UTV), might be the only means of maintaining a food plot in these isolated areas (Figure 5). The shape of a food plot will often depend on the area’s topography. Food plots can be rectangular, square or irregular, and the border can have edges that are wavy or straight. A hub-and-spoke design, where several food plots are established as lanes beside areas of early successional vegetation, can also be used to increase hunting opportunities (Figure 6). Large rectangular or square food plots could be established in areas of high deer density to reduce browsing pressure and increase the chance of forage establishment (Figure 7). Figure 4. Visual barriers and screening cover such as hedgerows or corn plantings provide security for deer and can result in more deer sightings and hunting opportunities.     Figure 5. Consider what equipment and implements are available when planning a food plot, as they can affect the plant species that can be successfully planted, as well as the size and location of a food plot. For example, remote plots can be inaccessible for some equipment, such as large tractors, planters and other implements.   Figure 6. Different food plot designs can achieve various goals. The hub-and-spoke design simultaneously provides natural habitat for cover and food plot strips that provide hunters with shooting lanes.   Figure 7. Plots can be planted with a grain crop and a cool-season forage such as winter wheat and clover. Larger plots have a better chance of withstanding heavy browsing pressure.   Select forages Selecting the right combination of forages or plant mixtures to use in a food plot is important. Various combinations of warm-season and cool-season forages that are either annuals or perennials can be considered (Table 1). The type of planting that is suitable for an area depends several factors: Soil fertility (see Food plot establishment section) Sunlight availability Soil drainage Equipment available Deer herd density Surrounding land-use practices Planting a variety of cool- and warm-season forages will offer a diversity of foods that will be used at various times of the year. Select forages that are palatable and that provide nutrition during stress periods for deer. Table 1. Food plot forages commonly used in Missouri. Forage Growing season Life span Soil pH Seeding rate (pounds per acre) Planting date Additional information Alsike clover Cool Perennial 6.0–6.5 Broadcast 4–6 August or April Short-lived perennial that tolerates wet, heavy soils and flooding better that other legumes. Best to include in a mixture with wheat or oats. Arrowleaf clover Cool Annual 6.0–6.5 Broadcast 10–15 September Grows best on well-drained soils. Can be planted with winter wheat and oats. Crimson clover Cool Annual 5.5–6.5 Broadcast 20–25 July to November Excellent forage that can be planted with winter wheat or oats. Forage radish Cool Annual 6.0–6.5 Broadcast 12 or drill 7–10 August to September Plant on a well-drained seedbed in late August to early September, 8–10 weeks before a frost. Kale Cool Annual 5.5–6.5 Broadcast or drill 4–5 August to September Cold-hardy; does not thrive in hot weather. Ladino clover Cool Perennial 6.0+ Broadcast 1–3 September or February to March Tolerates wetter soils. Best to plant with annual grain. Oats Cool Annual 5.8–6.5 Broadcast 80–120 August to September One of the most palatable small grains. Easy to establish. Can tolerate heavy grazing but cannot tolerate poor drainage or drought. Rape Cool Annual 5.3–6.8 Broadcast 4–9 or drill 2–6 August to September Requires good soil drainage. Best planted in strips rather than in a mixed seeding where other plants may shade it. Red clover Cool Perennial 5.5+ Broadcast 10 August or April Adapted to poorly drained, shallow or infertile soils. Will not tolerate intense, long-term browsing or drought. Rye (grain) Cool Annual 5.8–6.5 Broadcast 90–120 August to September Good for erosion-prone areas. Tolerates acidic, poor soils. Turnip Cool Annual 6.0–6.5 Broadcast or drill 3–6 August to September Deer eat these after a deep freeze. Wheat Cool Annual 5.8–6.5 Broadcast or drill 100–150 August to September Highly palatable to deer. Good mixed with red, crimson, alsike or arrowleaf clover. Alfalfa Warm Perennial 6.5–7.5 Broadcast 20–25 or drill 12–15 August or April Alfalfa produces and persists poorly on shallow or poorly drained soils and should not be planted on such sites. Sensitive to competition and heavy browsing pressure. Requires precise soil fertility conditions.  Corn Warm Annual 5.8–7.0 Drill 10–15 April to June Low in protein but high in carbohydrates. Susceptible to drought. Requires good soil and fertilization.  Cowpea Warm Annual 5.2–7.5 Broadcast 60–90 or drill 40–60 May to June Susceptible to overgrazing. Can tolerate drought, low fertility and acidic soil conditions. Grain sorghum Warm Annual 5.6–7.0 Drill 8 May to June Seed heads are preferred by deer after the first freeze. Lablab Warm Annual 5.5–7.5 Drill 15–20 May to June Cannot tolerate wet soils or heavy deer browsing. Soybean Warm Annual 5.5–7.0 Drill 50–75 May to June Sensitive to deer browsing, especially the first 30–45 days. For more information, refer to MU Extension publication G4652, Seeding Rates, Dates and Depths for Common Missouri Forages, Annual vs. perennial Annual plants germinate, grow, flower and produce a seed in one growing season. Perennial plants germinate, grow, flower and produce seeds on a continual basis over multiple years. Most food plot forages are annuals or perennials, but some can be biennials. Plants such as red clover have a biennial life span and generally live two years, growing roots, stems and leaves the first year, and flowering and then dying the second year. Cool-season vs. warm-season Plants used in a food plot can be classified as either cool-season or warm-season. Cool-season, or “green browse,” food plot forages — such as clover, winter wheat and rape — grow during the fall and spring when temperatures are cooler. These forages provide sources of quality nutrition when other foods may be limited. They help bucks recover from the stress associated with breeding season and can increase hunting opportunities on the property. Annual grains such as winter wheat or oats planted alone or with various clover varieties will provide a source of nutritious foods during the late fall and winter (Figure 8). Planting a variety of cool-season forages will ensure that adequate nutrition is available during the early fall when warm-season forages may be lacking and through late winter when green browse is at a premium. Crops in the Brassica genus can also be very attractive to deer. Brassica species include turnips, rape, radishes, kale and canola (Figure 9). Warm-season forages are typically planted in the spring (late April through May) after the threat of frost has passed and before the drier summer months. Both corn and grain sorghum produce grains that are high in carbohydrates and fat for energy and are very attractive to deer in the fall and winter. Soybeans are a warm-season crop that is heavily consumed as green forage in the summer and whose beans are used throughout the winter. Warm-season forages can supply supplemental nutrition that is important for lactation, fawn growth and antler development. A variety of native forbs and legumes typically make up a large percentage of a deer’s diet during the warm, summer growing season. Thus, warm-season plots can also be planted that contain a variety of high-quality legumes and other forbs to supplement naturally occurring vegetation. Figure 8. Adding legumes, such as various species of clover, with plantings of winter wheat or oats can provide a nutritious source of food during fall and winter.   Figure 9. Plants in the Brassica genus, including turnips (pictured), rape, radishes, kale and canola, can be used in food plots.   Mixtures Planting mixtures of forage can provide multiple benefits (Table 2). One benefit is nutritional, as mixtures provide diverse nutrients and potentially lengthen the availability of forage. In addition, planting mixtures provides an insurance of sorts: if one species doesn’t establish, the other may, which generally prevents a total food plot failure. The use of cool-season perennial forages in various mixtures can be beneficial. Perennial clovers and many other legume species are a preferred food for deer and provide excellent nutrition. Species such as crimson clover, red clover and ladino white clover are commonly planted in mixtures with winter wheat, oats or both to provide a nutritious source of protein through the winter months. Also, the grain crop often protects the legume from drought or overgrazing, while the legume provides needed nitrogen for the grain. This relationship between the plants increases the chances of planting success and decreases the need for fertilizer. Table 2. Food plot mixes commonly used in Missouri. Forages Growing season Life span Soil pH Seeding rate (pounds per acre) Planting date Additional information Alsike clover, small grain (wheat, oat, rye) Cool Annual, perennial Low pH well tolerated Broadcast alsike 4–6, small grain 50 August to September Tolerates wet soil but not hot, dry conditions. Handles browsing pressure well. Rape, kale, turnip Cool Annual 6.0+ Broadcast 2 each or drill 1 each August to September Frosts on mature plants cause sugar levels to increase, which increases palatability. Rye (grain), white clover Cool Annual, perennial 5.8–6.5 Broadcast rye 50, white clover 5 August to September Rye (grain, not to be confused with ryegrass) allows clover to establish. Red clover, arrowleaf clover, small grain (wheat, oats, rye) Cool Annual, perennial 5.5+ Broadcast (Drill) red clover 5–7 (5), arrowleaf clover 5–7 (5), grain 50 (30) August in the north; September or early March in the south Disk in August and fertilize in September according to soil test recommendations. Clovers will germinate quickly and reseed. Crimson clover and wheat Cool Annual, reseeding clover 5.8–7.0 Broadcast (Drill) crimson clover 15 (10), wheat 50 (40) Late August or early September Crimson clover is annual clover that is an excellent companion plant and will reseed. Mixture tolerates a variety of soil conditions. Alyceclover, American jointvetch Warm Annual 5.5–6.5 Broadcast 10 each May or June Provides good forage for deer but is susceptible to drought. Grain sorghum, forage bean Warm Annual 5.6–7.0 Drill grain sorghum 7, beans 50 May to June Provides a combination of warm- and cool-season food sources.   Food plot establishment Once you have decided on the size of the food plot, you can ensure the success of the planting by determining soil fertility needs, preparing the seedbed and planting the forage at the recommended rates and depths. Keep in mind that establishing food plots on highly fertile soils and areas with flat topography will minimize establishment cost and reduce potential problems associated with soil erosion. Determine soil fertility The quality and overall fertility of the soil will influence the ability of the plants to persist in the stand and can also indirectly affect the nutritional quality of the forages. The nutritional quality of the vegetation is a byproduct of the soil fertility level, which is therefore an important factor to consider before establishing a food plot. Soil testing At least three months before planting, have the soil tested to determine whether any fertilizer or liming is required for the seeding mixtures you plan to use (Figure 10). A soil test will determine if fertility and pH need to be modified before planting. Collecting soil samples involves gathering four to six random samples of soil, about 4 inches deep, throughout the food plot. Be sure to collect samples of soil from several locations in the field. Mix together all the samples from within a single food plot and allow the soil to dry before sending it to a local MU Extension center or directly to the Soil and Plant Testing Laboratory for analysis. The soil test report will provide fertilizer and lime recommendations based on the vegetation to be planted. For more information on collecting and submitting soil samples, visit the MU Extension Soil and Plant Testing Laboratory website, extension.missouri.edu/programs/soil-and-plant-testing-laboratory/spl-soil-analysis. Figure 10. Collect samples and have the soil tested to determine fertility needs of area before establishing a food plot.   Key soil nutrients The most important nutrients that plants need for growth are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), which are the basis of most fertilizers. A soil test report will provide recommended fertilizer amounts and time of application that will ensure success. Typically, legumes have a high P and K requirement and do not need nitrogen because they “fix” nitrogen from the bacteria that occur on the nodules of their root systems. Nitrogen is the key ingredient in plant proteins. It helps increase plant growth, palatability and crude protein levels. Plants that aren’t getting enough nitrogen often have light green to yellow-green foliage. Grasses and grain crops are often the first to suffer from nitrogen deficiency and greatly benefit from timely nitrogen applications. Phosphorus is essential for plant root and leaf growth. Without enough phosphorus, plant growth is stunted and foliage often is purplish. Potassium helps plants regulate water, absorb nitrogen, perform photosynthesis and transport nutrients. This important nutrient also increases root growth and drought tolerance. Potassium deficiency often decreases protein availability and causes leaf edges to turn yellow to pale brown. Soil pH A soil’s pH is a measure of its overall acidity. It is measured on a scale of 1 to 14, with a pH of 7 being neutral. Lower pH values are indicative of an acidic condition and higher values of an alkaline, or basic, condition. A soil pH of 6.5 to 7 is recommended for most food plot plantings. Soil pH can influence plant growth, a plant’s ability to fix nitrogen, and the overall availability of nutrients to the plant. For instance, phosphorus and calcium — two important minerals necessary for antler growth — become less available to plants in acidic soils. These conditions can be adjusted by incorporating the recommended rates of agricultural lime into the soil about six months before planting. Prepare seedbed A clean, well-disked seedbed is ideal for establishing small seeded plants such as clovers and brassicas. The seedbed should be firm and free of vegetation before it is planted. Depending on the site, a recommended herbicide may need to be applied to control existing perennial grasses, such as tall fescue, and other vegetation before disking or using a no-till drill. If these grasses are not controlled, they will eventually outcompete the food plot plants. A variety of recommended herbicides (broad-spectrum or grass-specific) and various formulations can be used, depending on the circumstance and the vegetation that is being controlled. For example, if tall fescue is present in the food plot area, spray 1.5 to 2 quarts of glyphosate per acre in the fall before a spring planting or in the spring before a fall planting. Before spraying the area, the grasses should be burned, grazed or mowed so that the field is free of thatch, which would block much of the herbicide from the growing grass. About two weeks after the herbicide application, the food plot can be no-tilled drilled or disked for planting. Calculate pure live seed Pure live seed (PLS) is a measure of the actual percent of the crop seed in the bag that is expected to germinate once planted. It can be used as an indirect measure of the quality of seed. PLS can be affected by the amount of inert matter, the percentage of pure seed and the germination rate. Although two seed bags of the same plant species may weigh the same, each may not have the amount of pure live seed needed to plant the same number of acres. The seeding rate will differ depending on the amount of PLS each seed bag contains. To calculate the amount of PLS a bag contains, multiply the pure seed percentage by the germination percentage listed on the bag’s seed tag. Pure seed × Germination = Pure live seed Example 0.98 × 0.80 = 0.784 (78.4 percent) To calculate the actual seeding amount based on the PLS, divide the desired seeding rate by the PLS. For example, if the desired seeding rate is 8 pounds per acre and the PLS of the seed is 78 percent, the actual seeding rate will be 10.2 pounds per acre. Desired seeding rate (pounds per acre)/Pure live seed (percentage) = Actual seeding rate (pounds per acre) Example 8/ 0.78 = 10.2 Seeding rates of forages used for food plots are generally similar to those recommended for agricultural production. However, reducing the seeding rates for various mixtures will promote the growth of annual forbs and other broad-leaved plants that can enhance the plant diversity and value of the food plot for other wildlife, such as bobwhite quail and songbird species. Inoculate legume seed Legumes are plants that have adapted a symbiotic relationship with certain species of bacteria. The bacteria attach to the legume’s roots, where nodules form. These nodules allow the bacteria to extract nitrogen from the air for the plant’s use. In exchange, the plant provides energy and nutrients for the bacteria’s growth. Both the bacteria and the plant benefit from this relationship. As a result of this relationship, legume seed must be inoculated with a bacterium to ensure that it germinates. The sticking agent in the inoculant adheres the bacterium to the seed. Different legumes require different strains of bacteria, so be sure to buy the correct inoculant for the seed. Inoculant is usually available from the seed dealer. Follow directions on the inoculant bag for application. Preinoculated legume seed is available, but its PLS may be low because the seed coating can account for 20 to 30 percent of the material in the seed bag. Select planting methods Follow recommended planting dates, seeding rates and depths to ensure a successful food plot. The preparation, planting and available maintenance equipment will generally determine the plant species that can successfully be planted. Refer to MU Extension publication G4652, Seeding Rates, Dates and Depths for Common Missouri Forages, for more planting and agronomic recommendations for establishing forages that can be used for establishing food plots. Seeding can be done by drill, broadcast seeder or conventional planter, depending on the equipment that is available. A no-till drill is recommended when planting plants with larger seeds, such as corn and soybeans, or in rocky soil or sloped areas. No previous tillage is required when using a no-till drill. Whatever method you use, be sure to calibrate your seeder. Food plot maintenance For food plots to succeed and remain productive, they must be maintained and managed. Maintenance often includes controlling weeds, ensuring proper soil fertility and monitoring browse pressure. Control weeds Controlling competing vegetation is a recommended management practice. Grasses are generally not considered to be a preferred food for deer in the summer, so various grass-selective herbicides may need to be applied as a postemergence application in broad-leaved warm-season food plots. Cool-season forages, especially perennial plots that contain clover or alfalfa, are also vulnerable to broad-leaved annual weeds. Several preemergence herbicides are available for controlling winter annual weeds; however, adding oats or winter wheat to these mixtures may be beneficial, as they tend to germinate quickly and can help suppress weed growth to some extent. The appropriate herbicide depends on the food plot plants and the problem weed species. Follow all directions on the herbicide label and properly calibrate herbicide sprayers so the correct rates are applied to ensure success (Figure 11). Mowing or bush-hogging can also reduce broad-leaved weed competition. Food plots should be mowed before weeds flower and produce seeds. Mowing before a herbicide application can also help control weeds, particularly in mid-summer. Figure 11. Weeds may need to be controlled with herbicides to prevent them from competing with forages.   Manipulate the planting frequency Instead of replanting annuals in a food plot each year, either allow the entire area to go fallow for two to three years or alternately replant half the area and allow the other half to go fallow. Either practice will result in a diversity of vegetation and will provide nutritional forage for deer. Monitor food plot success The planting success and overall use of food plots should be monitored using exclusion cages. These cages allow you to see how much forage is being eaten — the “browse pressure” — over time and to assess use by deer. Exclusion cages prevent deer and other wildlife from feeding on plants in a small portion of the plot (Figure 12). The plants within the cages can be compared to those outside the cages to determine browsing pressure and planting success. The dimensions of these cages vary but generally need to be 4 feet high and 2 to 3 feet in diameter to provide useful comparisons. Figure 12. Exclosure cages are easy to construct out of 2-by-4-inch-mesh welded wire and a T-post, and provide a way to monitor browse pressure.   Conclusion The benefits of a food plot depend on management objectives and surrounding land-use practices. Although food plots can be beneficial, they will not resolve habitat problems, nor are they a replacement for habitat provided by native plant communities. However, properly managed food plots can provide supplemental food for deer during nutritional stress periods and can be an integral component of a deer management plan. A successful food plot program requires planning, dedication and a knowledge of farming practices. Food plots are a management practice that can be fairly expensive and labor-intensive to implement. There is no “magic mix” or gimmick that provides a quality year-round food source for wildlife. Rather, using food plots to provide supplemental nutrition for deer often requires multiple plantings in appropriate locations combined with effective management of habitat provided by native plant communities. Additional information Adams, A., and B. Burhans, eds. 2001. Get in the game: Attracting wild turkey and other wildlife to your land. Edgefield, SC: National Wild Turkey Federation. Harper, C.A. 2004. Growing and managing successful food plots for wildlife in the Mid-South (PB1743). Knoxville: University of Tennessee Agricultural Extension Service. Kammermeyer, K., K.V. Miller, and L. Thomas Jr. 2006. Quality food plots: Your guide to better deer and better deer hunting. Bogart, GA: Quality Deer Management Association.  Roberts, C., and J. Gerrish. 2001. Seeding rates, dates and depths for common Missouri forages (G4652). Columbia: University of Missouri Extension. Stewart, D. 2000. Wildlife food planting guide for the Southeast (Publication 2111). Mississippi State University Extension Service. Photo credits: Emily Flinn, Alex Foster, Robert Pierce, Ted Seiler, Joe McCray, Missouri Department of Conservation and University of Missouri Extension.

Learn about the species of native warm-season grasses with potential for biomass production, livestock forage and wildlife habitat in Missouri — switchgrass, indiangrass, big bluestem, little bluestem and eastern gamagrass — in this MU Extension guide. | Robert A. Pierce II, Fisheries and Wildlife State Specialist, School of Natural Resources Robert Kallenbach, Professor, Division of Plant Sciences, MU College of Agriculture, Food and Natural Resourcess Tim Reinbott, Assistant Director, MU Agricultural Experiment Station Ray Wright, Research Specialist, MU South Farm Research Center Ranjith Udawatta, Professor, MU Center for Agroforestry Several species of native warm-season grasses have potential for biomass production, livestock forage and wildlife habitat in Missouri. Switchgrass is a popular choice because it produces large yields of dry matter — 3 to 6 tons per acre — over a wide range of conditions. There has also been interest in producing biomass and livestock forage using native warm-season grasses — switchgrass, indiangrass, big bluestem, little bluestem and eastern gamagrass — mixed with native forbs and legumes. Forbs are broadleaf flowering herbaceous plants; legumes are broad-leaved plants that often fix nitrogen. Legumes have a symbiotic bacteria called rhizobia within nodules in their root systems, producing nitrogen compounds that help plants grow. This guide is a companion to MU Extension publication G9422, Integrating Practices That Benefit Wildlife With Crops Grown for Biomass in Missouri. The guide provides information to help landowners and property managers make informed decisions on enhancing wildlife habitats while producing crops for biomass. Information in that guide provides an overview of how plant composition — both within and around fields used for biomass production — ­affects wildlife habitat. It also describes management techniques that landowners and managers can use to benefit a diversity of wildlife species. Figure 1 Forbs and legumes can be established with stands of native warm-season grasses to improve their value for wildlife and pollinator habitat. This guide includes information on the use of these mixtures for the following benefits: Use of native warm-season forages — including grasses, forbs and legumes — for enhanced wildlife and pollinator habitat Use of these mixtures as a part of overall forage production objectives and increased haying and grazing opportunities Additionally, MU Extension publication G9424, Using Native Warm-Season Grass, Forb and Legume Mixtures: A Case Study, details establishment, management practices and yield results from a three-year demonstration project studying these mixtures at the University of Missouri Bradford Research Center near Columbia, Mo. Benefits of diverse stands of native forages Enhanced wildlife and pollinator habitat Fields with diverse vegetation typically attract a greater variety of wildlife than monoculture, or single species, stands of grass. For example, sod-forming grasses such as tall fescue tend to restrict movement for many species that need more open space for nesting and foraging. Lack of food is also an issue in monoculture stands of grasses, because they lack seed- and soft mast-producing forbs and shrubs. Mixed stands of native warm-season grasses, which include forbs and legumes, provide food and cover required by wildlife such as grassland birds, bobwhite quail and cottontail rabbits. Diverse stands also provide excellent habitats for pollinators such as butterflies, bees and other insects (Figure 1). A selection of native forbs and legumes that can be established with native warm-season grasses can be found in Table 1.  MU Extension publication G9422, Integrating Practices That Benefit Wildlife With Crops Grown for Biomass in Missouri, also provides more information on seeding rates for native grasses and forbs in Table 2. Table 1 A selection of native forbs and legumes that can be established with native warm-season grasses. Forbs Legumes Ashy sunflower Purple prairie clover Maximillian sunflower White prairie clover Plains coreopsis Roundhead lespedeza Purple conflower Slender lespedeza Wild bergamot Sensitive briar Compass plant Leadplant Rosinweed Tall Indigo Rattlesnake master Partridge pea   Tick trefoils   Illinois bundleflower Table 2 Time of year for peak native warm-season and cool-season grass forage production levels. Reduced fertility needs and greater organic matter storage Native warm-season grasses have adapted to an environment with relatively low soil nutrients; with some exceptions, they are not particularly responsive to nitrogen fertilizers. These grasses are very efficient users of nitrogen when it is applied for increased hay production when it is needed. Be sure to take a soil test to determine current fertility levels and recommended fertilizer application rates. Mixtures of native warm-season grasses and forbs can store an abundance of organic matter and hold more soil carbon than monocultures of cool-season grasses. These mixtures contain two-and-a-half to three times more biomass in their root systems than in above-ground growth, and they replace more than 30 percent of their root system each year (Figure 2). Legumes are an important part of these systems, too, because symbiotic bacteria on their root systems have the ability to fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, thus providing nitrogen necessary for growth in a stand of grasses. Figure 2 Native grass, forb and legume mixtures help maintain soil health, improve soil organic matter and prevent nutrients from infiltrating adjacent streams. Note the soild depth comparison of the root system of Kentucky bluegrass on the far left with the root systems of a variety of native forbs and warm-season grasses. Image used courtesy of the Conservation Research Institute and Heidi Natura. Greater drought tolerance Stands of native warm-season forages tolerate drought better than cool-season grasses (Figure 3). Their larger root systems and more efficient photosynthetic capacity allow them to flourish in high temperatures and drought conditions typical in summer. Native warm-season grasses such as switchgrass, big bluestem and indiangrass produce root systems that often reach 10 feet deep if bedrock is not limiting. For example, switchgrass can produce about four times as much root biomass as cool-season grasses, such as tall fescue, in the first year after planting. Figure 3 The stand of native warm-season grasses and forbs on the left is more likely to survive drought conditions and still produce forage. The field of tall fescue on the right is dormant and does not provide grazing or hay crops during prolonged periods of dry conditions in the summer. Haying and grazing opportunities Native warm-season forages that include grasses, forbs and legumes can also be used for hay and grazing (Figure 4). As shown in Table 2, native warm-season grass forage production peaks during the warmer months of June, July and August compared with cool-season grasses that produce more forage earlier in the growing season. Native grasses can produce excellent quality hay and provide grazing; however, as with other forage grasses, their quality and yield depends on maturity. For haying, the timing of cutting is important when harvesting native stands. The times for maximum tonnage and highest quality forage occur at different times of the year. Maximum tonnage typically occurs in July and August, whereas the highest quality forage typically occurs earlier, depending on the species. For instance, the crude protein of most native warm-season grasses is typically 15 percent at the beginning of the growing season but declines to 4 or 5 percent in August as the plants mature. Figure 4 Stands of native warm-season grasses, forbs and legumes can be used for hay or grazing, providing a summer forage for livestock. Native warm-season grasses can provide high-quality forage when harvested at proper times, but they tend to be high in fiber and low in protein compared to forbs and legumes. Mixing forbs and legumes with native grasses can increase forage quality and prolong the window of time when these mixtures can be used, thus maximizing their forage value. Research has shown that livestock gain well when grazing native warm-season forages during summer months, with steers posting gains of between 11/2 and 2 pounds per day. Mixtures of big bluestem, little bluestem, indiangrass, and eastern gamagrass are more commonly established than monoculture plantings. Switchgrass is generally not recommended in mixtures because it matures more rapidly than these other grasses and makes stands more difficult to manage. Haying and grazing considerations that affect wildlife Native warm-season grasses, forbs and legumes can provide forage for livestock, as well as sources of food and cover for wildlife. However, the value of these mixtures for forage or for wildlife habitat varies greatly depending on how they are managed. These plant mixtures can either be harvested as a hay crop or grazed in the field. Landowners and managers need to consider several management strategies, such as those described below, to be most successful. Haying considerations affecting wildlife Mixtures of these native forages should be harvested at the appropriate time for the best quality hay. Balance forage quality and yield by haying grasses while, or just before, they flower. Switchgrass and eastern gamagrass are usually the first to mature and begin flowering in mid-May. Big bluestem and indiangrass develop later, usually in June. The timing of cutting these mixtures for hay has implications for wildlife, especially ground-nesting songbirds (Table 3). Grassland songbirds tend to nest in stands of native grass no taller than 36 inches. Species such as eastern meadowlarks, grasshopper sparrows, Henslow's sparrows and dickcissels are migratory, so they return to Missouri to nest in April. First nesting attempts begin in May, and these birds generally need 23 days of nesting for young to fledge and leave the nest. Grassland songbirds typically need at least a six-week window in which to establish a nest, lay and incubate eggs, and rear young. Therefore, harvesting hay before mid-June can be harmful to migratory bird nesting. Although grassland songbirds might nest two or three times in spring and summer, the initial nesting attempt is the most important for sustaining populations. Table 3 Approximate nesting times for bobwhite quail and selected species of grassland birds in Missouri with times of year with maximum yield and quality for various cool-season and warm-season forages in Missouri. Bobwhite quail begin nesting in grassland habitats from late April through May (Figure 5). The peak hatch for these first nests is typically in mid-June. Bobwhite hens often attempt to nest again and lay a second clutch of eggs that hatch in mid-August. Haying at any time from late April through mid-August can negatively impact bobwhite nesting success. However, harvesting native warm-season grass fields can provide adequate brood cover for bobwhite chicks, particularly if forbs and legumes such as ragweed, clover and partridge pea are present.  Haying tends to remove dense vegetation at ground level which improves access for quail chicks to use these areas for food and cover.   Thus, harvesting native warm-season grasses and mixtures in June or July can produce adequate yields and still provide some limited wildlife benefits, particularly if only a portion of the field is harvested. Cutting height should be no lower than 6 to 8 inches to facilitate regrowth and maintenance of overhead cover. Figure 5 Bobwhite quail nesting activity begins in late April and can continue through July. Peak hatching of the first clutch of eggs will usually occur in mid-June. The primary period for nesting and brood rearing for bobwhite quail is June through August, whereas grassland songbirds have typically finished nesting and brood-rearing by mid-August. Therefore, avoid haying in August if these species are a consideration. Hay quality is poor at this time of year and grass regrowth is often insufficient to provide winter cover for resident species such as bobwhite quail and wintering sparrows. Grazing considerations affecting wildlife  For most wildlife, including grassland songbirds, grazing these mixtures at light to moderate stocking rates during the growing season (late spring and early summer) is often preferable to high-intensity, short-rotation grazing. This grazing strategy also benefits bobwhite quail because it creates an open structure at ground level, which facilitates wildlife movement and feeding and maintains a canopy of overhead cover. This open ground structure also benefits most grassland songbirds. Season-long grazing with livestock numbers that are required to maintain a 14- to 36-inch forage canopy height typically does not disturb nesting. Forbs and legumes improve not only livestock forage but also food availability for wildlife. Alternatively, allowing livestock to graze for a short time during early spring, then moving animals in June to allow for regrowth works well. You can put various rotational grazing systems in place to achieve these goals, depending on your stocking and forage management objectives. You can also implement a complementary grazing system that benefits wildlife and forage production. In this system, livestock graze cool-season grasses and legumes in the early spring, native warm-season grasses and forbs in the late spring and early summer and cool-season grasses and legumes again in the late summer and fall. About one-third of the pasture acreage should be in native warm-season forages if this system is used. The University of Missouri works with the United States Department of Agriculture's Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) to offer technical assistance for rotational grazing plans. Financial assistance also is available for establishing native grasses and grazing systems that address forage production and wildlife habitat. MU Extension and the NRCS also collaborate on conducting MU Grazing Schools throughout the state. Contact your local MU Extension Center or the NRCS for more information. Benefits of delaying the harvest for wildlife Native warm-season grasses produced for biomass are typically harvested only once annually in fall or winter after a killing frost when mineral and moisture contents are lowest. Nesting wildlife benefit from fall or winter harvests that allow time for protective cover to regrow for use in spring and summer. You can also delay harvest until late winter or early spring or harvest small sections of a field and leave other areas unharvested to provide wildlife with protection from predators and extreme weather conditions in the winter. Harvesting biomass in late October or November destroys winter cover, but delaying harvest to later in the winter or early spring affords migrating and overwintering birds and other wildlife with protective cover during this time of year. Any loss in yield when delaying harvest until the following spring will be minimal unless heavy snowpack causes grasses to lay over near ground level, making harvest more difficult. Prescribed fire as a management tool to increase plant diversity Stands of native warm-season grasses and forbs need periodic prescribed fires as shown to maintain optimum conditions for forage production, as well as to provide benefits for wildlife (Figure 6). Conducting a prescribed burn is an excellent management tool for increasing plant diversity and improving the forb component of a stand of grass. Fire removes accumulated dead plant litter and creates more open conditions at ground level that encourage the germination of these important food plants. The season, or timing, and frequency, or burn interval, of a prescribed fire is crucial to achieving success and to maintain plant diversity within the stand. Figure 6 Periodic prescribed fires benefit forage production and wildlife. To encourage growth of native warm-season grasses, conduct a prescribed burn late in the dormant season — usually late March and early to mid-April — to stimulate grass growth and improve forage quality. To encourage growth of forbs and legumes, conduct prescribed burns in late summer, fall or winter. Conducting a prescribed fire every three years reinvigorates stands of warm-season grasses, encourages growth of native forbs and legumes, helps control the spread of undesirable cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and controls woody vegetation and sprouts. It is best to burn only about a third of a field each year, leaving the previous years' growth in place for nesting habitat for a variety of species such as bobwhite quail, eastern meadowlarks, grasshopper sparrows and cottontail rabbits. Contact a natural resource professional with the Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC) or the NRCS for technical assistance and information before conducting a prescribed fire. Refer to publications in the Additional Resources section for guidance on planning and conducting prescribed burns. Summary Native warm-season grasses, forbs and legumes can provide high-quality forage, biomass and improved wildlife habitat and use of these mixtures can complement grazing systems with existing cool-season forages such as tall fescue. These stands can be harvested during the summer months at the appropriate stage of maturity and can provide a source of forage and other benefits should drought conditions occur. In addition, the use of native warm-season forages typically require less fertilizer and lime to sustain their productivity.   If improved wildlife habitat is an important goal then trade-offs will need to be taken into consideration.  Frequent harvests for hay and long-duration grazing that leaves grass heights at low levels should not be conducted if wildlife are a consideration. The timing of implementing various management practices, such as grazing and haying are particularly important. Regardless of the grass species that is established (big and little bluestem, indiangrass, switchgrass, and eastern gamagrass), moderate season-long grazing can provide excellent habitat for grassland songbirds, bobwhite quail and cottontail rabbits, particularly if forbs and legumes are included in the mixture and appropriate management practices are conducted on a timely basis. For more information contact your MU Extension Center. The Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC) and NRCS also provide technical assistance for establishing mixtures of native warm-season forages on your property. Resources Missouri Department of Conservation, Country land care packet, https://mdc.mo.gov/your-property/improve-your-property/habitat-management/country-land-care-packet Missouri Grow Native Program, http://grownative.org Missouri Native Seed Association, http://monativeseed.org United States Department of Agriculture, Natural Resources Conservation Service (USDA-NRCS) Conservation practice information sheet: Native forb information sheet: Establishing native forbs, https://efotg.sc.egov.usda.gov/references/Delete/2015-11-14/Native_Forbs_Information_Sheet_11_4_15.doc.pdf United States Department of Agriculture, Natural Resources Conservation Service Job Sheet, Native forb and non-native legume interseeding, https://eadn-wc03-4256752.nxedge.io/downloads/turnin-the-dirt/ht-job-sheets/js-biol-20.pdf United States Department of Agriculture, Natural Resources Conservation Service Plant Materials Program, Elsberry Plant Materials Center, Serving areas in the States of Illinois, Iowa and Missouri, https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/nrcs/main/plantmaterials/pmc/central/mopmc/ References Fargione, J.E., T.R. Cooper, D.J. Flaspohler, J. Hill, C. Lehman, T. McCoy, S. Mcleod, E.J. Nelson, K.S. Oberhauser, and D. Tilman. 2009. "Bionenergy and wildlife: threats and opportunities for grassland conservation." Bioscience 59 (9): 767–777. Harper, C.A., and P.D. Keyser. 2008. SP704-A-Potential impacts on wildlife of switchgrass grown for biofuels. (SP704-A). University of Tennessee Extension. http://trace.tennessee.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1011&context=utk_agexbiof. Harper, C.A., E.D. Holcomb, P.D. Keyser, J.L. Birckhead, J.C. Waller, and G.E. Bates. 2013. Wildlife considerations when haying or grazing native warm-season grasses. (SP731-H).University of Tennessee Extension: 7. Keyser, P., G. Bates, J. Waller, C. Harper, and E.D. Holcomb. 2012. Grazing native warm-season grasses in the mid-South. (SP731-C). University of Tennessee Extension. Keyser, P., G. Bates, J. Waller, C. Harper, F. Allen, and E.D. Holcomb. 2012. Producing hay from native warm-season grasses in the mid-South. (SP731-D). University of Tennessee Extension. Rupp, S.P., L. Bies, A. Glaser, C. Kowaleski, T. McCoy, T. Rentz, S. Riffell, J.Sibbing, J. Verschuyl, and T. Wigley. 2012. Effects of Bioenergy Production on Wildlife and Wildlife Habitat. Technical Review 12-03. Bethesda, MD: Wildlife Society. Tilman, D., J. Hill, and C. Lehman. 2006. "Carbon-Negative Biofuels From Low-Input High Diversity Grassland Biomass." Science 314: 1598-1600. Photo and illustration credits: Conservation Research Institute, Heidi Natura; Missouri Department of Conservation; Ryan Lock; Robert Pierce II; Ray Wright

Pollinators are critically important for natural ecosystems and crop production. Learn why pollinators are crucial, the major threats confronting them, conservation steps being taken, and how you can help in this University of Missouri Extension guide. | Zack Miller, Biological Sciences, University of MissouriCandace Galen, Biological Sciences, University of MissouriJames Quinn, Regional Horticulture Specialist, University of Missouri ExtensionAt the heart of the pollination issue lies our bounty of foods such as peaches, strawberries, squash and apples. These and other foods requiring pollination have been staples in the human diet for centuries, and their pollinators have been highly revered since ancient times. From Egyptian hieroglyphics and Native American cave paintings to Greek mythology and English poetry, bees and butterflies have been a source of fascination and awe for millennia (Figure 1).Figure 1. Ancient cave painting depicting honey harvesting.Missouri Master Pollinator Steward programThis publication is one in a series that focuses on pollinators and how you can join the efforts to protect them. In addition to these publications, the Missouri Master Pollinator Steward program offers training that includes hands-on activities aimed at building awareness of key pollinators' plight and needs, and inspiring confidence in your ability to make a difference. Learn how you can become a Master Pollinator Steward.Yet, over the past century, pollinator numbers have suffered declines. During this time, global development, a booming human population, and industrial agriculture brought about drastic landscape changes. These changes have resulted in greater losses of forage and nesting resources for pollinators than ever before seen. The ecosystem service of pollination, once taken for granted, is now potentially threatened as many pollinator species face declines in Missouri, the United States and many regions around the world.Pollinators are critically important for natural ecosystems and crop production. Through pollination, they perform roles essential to human welfare. Heightened public awareness of their services and of their declines over the past two decades has prompted action, but much remains to be done.This publication introduces issues regarding the conservation of pollinators in Missouri. It explores why pollinators are crucial, what major threats confront them, what conservation steps are being taken, and how you can help. It highlights bees over other pollinators as bees are the most important for both agricultural and natural pollination in Missouri.Go to the bee, thou poet: consider her ways and be wise.— George Bernard ShawThe importance of pollinatorsEnvironmentalists, farmers and scientists are working tirelessly to save species across the globe as human expansion encroaches on habitats. Some people readily see that these species have value as a part of biodiversity. Others see no compelling value in particular species or their relevance to society. Pollinators, however, have enormous value to society. Not only do they increase the productivity of Missouri’s farmland, they also play an important role in maintaining the health of our forests. In short, their conservation is an effort with which everyone should be concerned.Pollinators in natureOne hundred fifty years ago, Charles Darwin proposed that one could predict the numbers of certain flowers in a neighborhood solely by knowing the number of cats. His hypothesis was surprisingly accurate: cats control the population of mice, which raid the nests of bumble bees, reducing their population. Bumble bees are critical for the pollination of certain flowers, so their decreased population changed the balance of flowers in the neighborhood. This story demonstrates the interactions that occur between species in nature (Figure 2). Hopefully, it also gives us a deeper understanding of the importance of pollinators in ecosystems and how upsetting an ecosystem can have unintended results for them and their host plants.Figure 2. This sample food web shows how the plants and animals in a habitat are interconnected.In ecology, the term “keystone species” is used to describe a species on which other species of the ecosystem depend, either directly or indirectly, and whose removal would prompt a dramatic change in an ecosystem. The wolf, for example, is a keystone species because it controls populations of herbivores (deer, elk, rabbit, etc.) that consume the various plants that in turn support numerous species, including birds and insects. The loss of a keystone species thus has effects at many levels in an ecosystem.Pollinators are considered keystone species because they are responsible for the pollination of many important flowering plants. About 80 percent of the world’s 300,000 flowering plants require the help of animal pollinators to reproduce. (The remaining 20 percent either self-pollinate; are pollinated by wind, as with oak trees and corn; or are pollinated by water, as with many oceanic plants.) Bees are responsible for 67 percent of pollination services, making them by far the most important pollinator for natural ecosystems. Further, the results of their labor — seeds, nuts and fruits — are the primary source of nourishment for many birds, mammals and insects. For example, roughly 25 percent of birds in Missouri rely on the work of pollinators for their main food source, and the Missouri black bear derives a large portion of its diet from berries, which do not set good fruit without insect pollination. If fewer plants receive adequate pollination, less food will be available for animals. Like in the wolf scenario, these effects are felt throughout the ecosystem.Pollinators are also considered indicator species. As such, their presence, abundance and health can provide insight into the health of an entire ecosystem. A diverse and healthy pollinator community will support a variety of plants and thus the rest of the environment. The decline in pollinators is alarming, not just because more species are being added to the threatened or endangered list, but because they are keystone species that play a vital role in natural ecosystems. The recent decline in numbers of the rusty patched bumble bee and monarch butterfly could, therefore, be indicative of overall habitat health in Missouri.Pollinators in agriculturePollinators also play an important role in agriculture as they are responsible for the pollination of many of our food plants (Figure 3). Roughly 35 percent of our food depends on animal pollination for production. Thus, if you eat a balanced diet, roughly every third bite of food you take is thanks to the work of pollinators. These foods are primarily seeds, nuts, oils, spices, stimulants, fruits and vegetables, but also dairy and meat if animals are allowed to freely graze in pastures with forbs. Pollinators are also responsible for the pollination of many cover crops, which add fertility to soils when used in rotation with food crops.Figure 3. Many of our food plants require the help of animal pollinators, such as the honey bee, to reproduce.Agricultural pollination is a huge industry with an annual economic value of $29 billion in the U.S. and $217 billion worldwide. Most of this pollination is done by managed bees, native bees or feral honey bees, or in most cases, a combination of the three. The principal species for pollination throughout history has been the honey bee (Apis mellifera) owing to its large colonies (some can have up to 100,000 bees), ease of movement, and relative effectiveness of pollination. Honey bees, which were originally brought to North America from Europe, are the primary contributors to the pollination of fruit and nut trees, berry brambles, squashes and many other food plants.The welfare of the honey bee has declined drastically in the past two decades. Commercial and hobby beekeepers alike see 30 to 50 percent losses each year due to colony collapse disorder (CCD) or other maladies (Figure 4). The total number of hives in the U.S. has decreased by over 60 percent since the late 1990s. The exact causes of the decline are yet unknown, but consensus among authorities points to the combined effects of parasites and diseases, agrochemicals and degraded habitat. Nonetheless, the honey bee remains by far the most economically important and effective commercial pollinator for agricultural needs.Figure 4. Annual loss of honey bee population in the U.S., 2005–2015.Several other pollinator species have grown in importance over the past few decades. The alfalfa leafcutter bee (Megachile rotundata) is a solitary bee that is intensively managed for the pollination of alfalfa, canola and seed clover. Its pollination services on alfalfa have been shown to triple-seed set, making it invaluable for the dairy industry, which relies on alfalfa as a primary feed source for cattle. The blue orchard bee (Osmia lignaria) has been used commercially for the pollination of fruit and nut orchards. It is a more effective pollinator on many plants, with one female touted to provide as much pollination as more than 50 honey bees. It is often used with the honey bee, however, leading to better pollination services than either could provide alone. Several other mason bees (Osmia spp.) are also used for commercial fruit and nut pollination (Figure 5).Figure 5. The mason bee Osmia ribifloris (shown on a barberry flower) is used commercially to pollinate blueberries.Pollinators and the plants that need themThe degree to which plants are affected by pollinator loss varies. Many pollinators are generalists, foraging on and thus pollinating many different plants. To some degree, generalists are substitutable: If one is removed, its pollination services are provided by others. There are, however, specialist relationships in which certain plants have only one kind of pollinator and vice versa. These relationships are the most at risk because the decline of either the pollinator or the plant will cause the decline of the other.Some plants are less dependent on pollinators than others. Many plants can self-pollinate, or clone themselves, if they do not receive animal pollination. Examples include peas, blackberries and mayapples. Specialist plants that are dependent on bees are more likely to be negatively affected in their absence than are generalists that are served by a variety of pollinators and can self-pollinate.Various species of bumble bees have also been raised for pollination services. In the U.S., the primary species of use are Bombus occidentalis in the west and Bombus impatiens in the east. Bumble bees are important pollinators for tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and many varieties of berries. They are unique as pollinators in their ability to buzz pollinate, or sonicate. In this behavior, the bee presses its thorax against the base of the flower’s anthers and rapidly moves its flight muscles, causing a buzzing. The vibration causes pollen to eject from anthers, providing the bee with a source of protein and the plant with a greater chance of reproducing. Many plants, such as those in the nightshade family (for example, potatoes, tomatoes and peppers), do not offer nectar as a reward, and store their pollen in tubelike anthers where it is difficult for honey bees and others to access; the buzzing, or sonication, of bumble bees helps to release the pollen. The use of bumble bees to pollinate greenhouse tomatoes has been shown to significantly increase both the quantity and quality of the tomatoes produced (see MU Extension publication M404, Native Pollinators and Their Habitats, for more on this topic).In addition to managed pollinators, native bees and feral honey bees play a vital role in agricultural pollination services. There are more than 4,000 species of native bees in the U.S., about 450 of which can be found in Missouri. Although they account for nearly $4 billion in annual production, they provide this ecosystem service at no direct cost to us. Many native bees are more effective at pollination than the honey bee. For example, the squash bee (Peponapis limitaris) removes and deposits four times as much pollen on squash plants than the honey bee does. In orchards, the presence of native bees together with honey bees has an additive effect on total pollination and fruit set that cannot be achieved by honey bees alone. Continually blooming wildflower edges and interspersed hedgerows will attract native bees and feral honey bees if a farm is located far from natural areas.Pollinators play a crucial role in our food system, from pollinating the clover that fixes nitrogen into the soil to filling our orchards with bounties of fruits and nuts. Much of modern agriculture relies on these creatures for the production needed to meet high demands. And often, pollinators perform these services for free and without human involvement. For us to continue to have a rich array of foods at low cost, both wild and managed bees must be considered when planning or managing agricultural land. Threats to pollinatorsTo most people, the phrase “threatened pollinators” conjures up only the honey bee and the monarch butterfly. Yet, species declines are apparent in many pollinator groups. The major causes of these declines fall into three groups: habitat destruction/degradation; exposure to pesticides and other agrochemicals; and pest, pathogen and disease spread.Habitat destruction/degradationThe greatest problem pollinators face is habitat loss. The human population has increased dramatically over the past couple centuries, climbing from 1 billion in 1800 to 7.5 billion in 2017, and is estimated to reach 11 billion by 2100. To accommodate the needs of humans for food, materials and leisure spaces for that many people, we must shape the land to fit these demands. As a result, the landscape in the U.S. and worldwide is radically different than it was a few thousand years ago. These changes have had obvious and direct effects on the organisms that originally lived on Earth.The largest pressure exerted on the land is for food. Nearly 40 percent of the land on Earth has been converted to agricultural production, and roughly half of the remaining land is desert. In Missouri and the entire U.S., most agricultural land is used for meat production. The northern half of Missouri historically hosted diverse tallgrass prairies, but a mere 1 percent of this pollinator-rich habitat remains. Instead, most of that land is planted in corn and soybean for animal feed purposes. The story is similar across the U.S. and in other parts of the world. For species that do not have expansive ranges or that have specialist relationships with other species, this pressure creates a very difficult situation.What little natural habitat remains — in parks, national forests, conservation areas and the like — is starkly different from the natural habitat that existed throughout the organisms’ evolutionary history. The U.S. was logged, mined, hunted, fished and grazed extensively during the 19th and 20th centuries, before modern conservation practices were implemented. Add to the effects of these activities numerous invasive species, noise and light pollution (which can adversely affect insect communication and movement), and human traffic, and we are left with an ecosystem community with a very different composition than it had before. In the face of these pressures, it is little wonder pollinators are declining around the world.In addition, much of the remaining habitat is sparse and highly fragmented. This situation makes it hard for species of all sorts, including migrating birds and butterflies, to find resources and move from one patch of habitat to the next. For example, a small solitary bee whose nest is along a brushy fence line may find the rows of crops between one fence line and the next impossible to cross. Much work is still needed to preserve habitat and to link existing natural areas so as to create a network of resources for wildlife through which they can easily move.PesticidesRachel Carson’s 1967 book Silent Spring exposed for the first time the effect of chemicals on local ecosystems in the U.S. She argued that toxins intended to target a pest would likely build up in the tissues of other organisms in the environment and have unforeseen negative consequences. This result was well-documented; toxins had accumulated in insect-eating birds, reducing their ability to reproduce. Carson also argued that overuse of pesticides and herbicides merely favors disease-resistant individuals.DDT, the primary pesticide Carson targeted in her book, was eventually banned due to concerns over environmental toxicity. In its place, however, came a plethora of chemical pesticides. These compounds target the nervous system of insects and are considered toxic to bees. The effects are different across species and depend upon concentration and avenues of exposure. Symptoms of sublethal doses in honey bees include wobbly flight, loss of flight, regurgitation of nectar, erratic egg-laying, impaired brood development, and queen loss. Most of these chemicals are no longer in use in the U.S., but many, including DDT, are still regularly used in other countries.The most prevalent types of pesticide in the U.S. today are neonicotinoids, whose use has greatly increased in the past two decades (Figure 6). Called neonics for short, this family of pesticides — which includes imidacloprid, the most heavily used pesticide in the world — is chemically similar to the naturally occurring nicotine compound. Neonics are sold under a variety of brand names, including as common garden products in retail stores. They are systemic pesticides, which means they are present throughout the plant tissues, not just on the foliage. Their presence in the tissues prevents chewing insects such as caterpillars from feeding on leaves, but also harms nontarget species such as bees when they collect pollen and nectar from the flowers. Estimated use on agricultural land, in pounds per square mileLess than 0.01 0.01 to 0.02 0.03 to 0.04 Greater than 0.04 No estimated useFigure 6. Estimated agricultural use of imidacloprid, 1994 to 2004.The half-life of these pesticides (that is, the time it takes them to degrade in nature by 50 percent) can be up to one to three years after application for some varieties. They can be taken up by other plants, stay in the soil, or wash into the groundwater. Their presence in these places can be detrimental to plant species, that live along edges of crop fields, including milkweed. Milkweed is the only source of food for monarch butterfly larvae. Although these pesticides have proven to be less toxic to humans and other vertebrates, they have been under scrutiny since the late ’90s, when they were suspected to be a possible cause for CCD in honey bees.Follow the labelWhen using pesticides, always follow the instructions on the label to be safe and to lessen the potential for environmental contamination.Even 50 years ago, Carson recognized the inherent problems with pesticides and suggested that biotic control be implemented instead. Biotic control is now one of the chief tenets of integrated pest management (IPM), which aims to control pests with their natural predators. With bee numbers on the decline and concerns about pesticide use growing, interest in organic production and the use of IPM is increasing. Ultimately, however, the shift away from pesticides is one that must be driven by heightened awareness and consumer demand for other approaches to pest control.Pests, pathogens and diseasesIn addition to agrochemicals and habitat loss, many pollinators are also facing problems with pests, pathogens and diseases. One of the major factors thought to contribute to CCD in honey bee hives is in-colony pests. The varroa mite Varroa destructor is the single most devastating pest for honey bees. It is an external parasite that was brought to the U.S. from Asia in 1987. Left unchecked, it can reproduce rapidly and greatly damage a honey bee colony’s health. The mites attach to the bee’s thorax, pierce the exoskeleton, and suck the hemolymph, which is the equivalent of insect blood. Further, honey bees are more likely to be infected with various diseases, including deformed wing virus and black queen cell virus, because the varroa mites act as vectors. If you are going to keep bees, you will likely unknowingly keep varroa mites as well. All beekeepers should assume their colonies are infected and develop a plan for lessening the effects of varroa mites on colony health.The commercialization of bumble bees has also adversely affected bee health. In the early 1990s, the widespread use of Bombus occidentalis ultimately led to disease spread within both managed and wild populations and nearly caused the loss of the species. Although current regulations require bumble bees to be certified pathogen-free before distribution, doing so was shown to be ineffective by a research group from Europe that found 77 percent of “clean” bees are infected with pathogens. When bumble bees escape from greenhouses and high tunnels, they pass pathogens to other bee species via wildflowers, a concept known as pathogen spillover. These pathogens, which can infect solitary and social bees alike, make bees more susceptible to disease. This spillover is another factor that contributes to declines in many regions around the globe.In nature, pests, pathogens and diseases are kept in check by predators, lack of vectors, seasonal change, and host resilience. In commercialized pollinator operations, however, these checks are mostly absent. Instead, the use of miticides and other chemicals is encouraged. These chemicals have negative effects that increase when combined with neonics and other pesticides. So that honey does not get tainted by pesticides, their use is restricted during honey flow, the time when major nectar sources are available and bees are collecting it in abundance. One study showed that certain pesticides caused impairments in brain function and decreased a honey bee’s memory and ability to learn through smell. Continual use of such treatments will inhibit natural resistance. Current practices for pest management and disease diagnoses are ineffective. More research is needed to reveal other potential strategies for reducing the pressure of pests and pathogens on pollinators.The evidence for pollinator declines is apparent in the U.S. and abroad. In China and other parts of the globe, hand pollination is needed (Figure 7) because specialist pollinators are lacking (as with the vanilla orchid) or because pesticide use exceeds pollinator tolerance (as with apple orchards in China). Further, for the first time ever, several species of bees were added to the endangered species list in 2016–2017 under the federal Endangered Species Act. Included in the list were seven species of bees native to Hawaii and the rusty patched bumble bee from the Midwest. Many others, including the American bumble bee (B. pensylvanicus) and the yellow-banded bumble bee (B. terricola), are at risk as well. Given that bees are indicator species for ecosystem health, we can gather from these declines that our ecosystems are in poor health. Now more than ever, there is a great need for pollinator conservation advocates, citizen scientists, and researchers to cooperatively engage in research and action.Figure 7. Apples can be hand pollinated, but doing so is a time-consuming and expensive practice.Insider insightsLeo Sharashkin, beekeeperLeo Sharashkin has more than 45 beehives, and yet he has never bought a single swarm of bees. He does not treat for varroa mites or other maladies, and yet the annual survival of his colonies is 85 percent, far exceeding the 50–60 percent survival rate that is more common across the U.S. What’s his secret? Sharashkin is a bee trapper. Although honey bees are not native to Missouri or the U.S., they have been around long enough to establish wild, or feral, populations, which Sharashkin describes as “beautiful and robust.”Each spring, these honey bees reproduce via swarming: The queen and about 40 percent of the colony’s bees leave the hive to seek a new home. Sharashkin says that by understanding what the bees are looking for in a home, you can set out bait boxes to trap them.These feral bees are more resilient than domesticated bees because they have undergone many generations of natural selection in the wild.Leo Sharashkin. (Photo courtesy of Horizontal Hive)According to Sharashkin, the greatest problem for Missouri beekeeping is that beekeepers predominantly are not using locally adapted stocks. He says, “Most bee packages people use to start hives come from southern states. Or they may even get their bees from a local beekeeper, but that beekeeper buys queens from Hawaii or other tropical locations. Bees vary greatly depending on what climate they are from. Bees from southern Florida will not do as well in upstate Michigan.“All in all, this is the greatest challenge and leads to several problems: first, when you get bees from someplace else that are not adapted, you need to treat them because they will not survive parasites and other diseases without treatment and will not be matched to our climate. It is very challenging to keep bees organically/treatment-free if you are not using the local stock.“But the more severe problem is that you cannot fully control the mating of bees. All the imported bees will interbreed with local bees. This dilutes the genetics of the local population, destroying their adaptability to the local conditions. The next generation is no longer as viable and as resilient as the local honey bees were. The bottom line is: The best thing we could do in this state to conserve our honey bees does not have to do with hive design or management methods or pesticides (even though these are important issues), but is instead to rely completely on our local, feral bees.”Sharashkin received his doctorate in agroforestry from the University of Missouri. He has given over 300 presentations on four continents about sustainable beekeeping and gardening, and is the editor of the book Keeping Bees with a Smile. He currently lives in the Ozarks with his family. Visit the Horizontal Hive website for more information.Jason Jenkins, monarch championJason Jenkins was Missouri’s first monarch and pollinator coordinator. He helped coordinate the efforts of many different organizations, from Monsanto to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, in pursuit of more effective conservation efforts. Jenkins said that the position is unique because it represents so many diverse organizations, and he is impressed by the enthusiasm for cooperation among organizations with ostensibly conflicting agendas:“It’s not very often that you are going to see the Sierra Club and the Farm Bureau sitting at the same table advocating for the same thing. But we have that kind of culture here in Missouri. When something like pollinator conservation comes along, it doesn’t matter what logo you might wear on your shirt, we’re here to solve a problem, and it’s going to take all of us to solve the problem. So, check your logo at the door, and let’s work towards our common goal. That cooperation is something we are really good at here in Missouri.”However, he has noticed shortcomings: “A lot of times, conversations are being had about the conservation of pollinators and how it will be done. There is talk about farmers and what agriculture should be doing, but when you look around the room, none of those farmers are there. The people who control the most acres and can make the biggest impact aren’t at the table when scientists and biologists are making decisions. We have a great relationship with our agriculture community in Missouri, but there is opportunity for more involvement.”Jenkins explained that monarch populations have declined by up to 90 percent over the past few decades. These declines, he says, are not limited to monarchs but are felt by many other species as well. He says the greatest threat is the lack of quality habitat. “First, if there is no milkweed, there are no monarchs, because there is no place for the female to lay her eggs. But more importantly, we need nectar-producing plants that bloom spring through fall. This is important to provide monarchs with adequate forage during their spring and fall migrations. If they don’t have the fuel to get to and from Mexico, they can’t make it. The more flowering plants, the better. A higher-quality and more diverse habitat can support more monarchs. And what is good for the monarch is good for other pollinators and wildlife as well.”Jenkins encourages everyone to get involved. “From the biggest landowner in Missouri to someone in a two-bedroom apartment, everyone can get engaged,” he says. “It doesn’t have to be expensive or require tons of land or knowledge. It is doable by everyone. The biggest thing is to get a little education. Learn more about pollinators and their plants. You can create a beautiful garden full of annuals and perennials that blooms for three seasons that benefits all insects. Even half a dozen milkweed plants in a pot will help the monarchs. It doesn’t take that much to make a difference.”Jenkins received his bachelor’s degree in agricultural journalism from the University of Missouri and has more than 15 years of experience in public communication focusing on fisheries and wildlife management.(Graph courtesy of Monarch Watch)Elizabeth Graznak, organic farmerElizabeth Graznak is a small-scale organic farmer. She runs a community-supported agriculture (CSA) operation for 60 families, vends year-round at the farmers market in Columbia, and sells to restaurants, grocery stores, and florists across mid-Missouri. Graznak originally became interested in sustainable farming for environmental reasons, but she also loves being able to provide good, healthy food for her family and community.Elizabeth Graznak. (Photo courtesy of Happy Hollow Farm)When asked how one can get involved with pollinator conservation, Graznak enthusiastically said, “They get a beehive! Absolutely, everyone should get a beehive for their backyard. It’s not hard; even kids can do it and enjoy it, and they will learn a lot from it. My daughter, Sylvia, is 4 years old, and she loves being around the bees. There are the years with good honey flow also. Last year, our hives did so well that we were able to give out honey to all the CSA members and sell some at the market.”Graznak uses integrated pest management to control pests that attack her crops. This means that she uses an array of tactics — crop rotation, physical barriers, companion planting, and organic sprays — to keep pests at a manageable level. She believes the same integrated approach is needed to combat the growing pest and disease problems of honey bees. “If you want to have healthy bees, you have to manage for that just like you would manage for Swiss chard,” she said, “I do not think there is one answer or cure-all. I think it must be a combination of approaches. Letting the strong survive and building from fitter stocks is a good strategy, but it must come alongside appropriate management: revising hives, intervening with pest issues, relocating hives, using clean equipment, respecting the bees, etc. The people that are doing that are going to be successful.”Graznak knows that a big portion of her cash crops — squash, melons, cucumbers, tomatoes — comes from the work of pollinators. For that reason, she plants flowering forb mixtures around her field edges and sows clover and other cover crops to provide forage for honey bees and native bees alike. She encourages people to think about where their food is coming from and whether it supports the values they uphold — and, also, to be grateful for pollinators.Graznak received her master’s degree in horticulture from Cornell University in Ithaca, New York. She is the proprietor of Happy Hollow Farm, a USDA-certified organic flower and vegetable farm located in central Missouri.Conservation in actionActors in pollinator conservationThere are many campaigns to save the bees, monarchs and other pollinators. They work to preserve the resources and conditions that will allow these creatures to grow and reproduce. For pollinators, these resources and conditions are adequate foraging and nesting resources that are free of chemical toxins. Their availability will allow robust populations to adapt to the future environmental challenges of climate change, urbanization and new diseases.Pollinator conservation depends largely on the decisions and land use practices of private landowners. Over 90 percent of the land in Missouri and 70 percent of the land in the U.S. is in their hands. From the local to the international level, numerous organizations and agencies collaborate with landowners on pollinator projects. Understanding these groups’ roles can increase your effectiveness with conservation measures.Several international organizations of note are involved in pollinator conservation. The North American Pollinator Protection Campaign (NAPPC) consists of 160 partner groups that encourage resident and migratory pollinator health via education and outreach, collaborative partnerships, and science-based policy decisions. It is the primary international organization that works for the protection of monarch butterflies in North America. The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) and the Convention on Biological Diversity are the leading organizations that inform international policy at the global scale and monitor the conservation statuses of species. In 2016, the rusty patched bumble bee (Bombus affinis) was put on IUCN’s red list as a critically endangered species.In 2016, the U.S. government published a science-based Pollinator Research Action Plan with these three goals:Reducing annual honey bee losses to less than 15 percent over the next 10 yearsIncreasing monarch populations to at least 225 million at wintering grounds in Mexico by 2020Restoring or enhancing 7 million acres of pollinator habitat across the country via public–private landholder relationshipsIn Missouri, many active organizations and partners assist in pollinator conservation. One of these is the a statewide chapter of the Xerces Society, an invertebrate-focused conservation group. This organization provides guides on native bees and their host plants, sponsors outreach events, and partners with other organizations to implement conservation practices. The Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC) manages nearly 1 million acres of land across the state and works in a variety of Missouri ecosystems to monitor and maintain biodiversity. MDC also conducts outreach education programs that promote pollinator awareness and environmental stewardship. MU Extension, in addition to conducting educational programming, provides opportunities for volunteers to become involved with pollinator conservation in their communities through the Missouri Master Gardener, Master Pollinator Steward and Master Naturalist programs (the latter of which is conducted jointly with MDC).Missouri landowners are also provided with financial incentives through partnerships with the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and National Resource Conservation Service (NRCS). If farmers opt to plant pollinator forage rather than commodity crops, they can earn sign-up bonuses, project cost-shares, and annual payments through the USDA’s Conservation Reserve Program (CRP). They must enroll for at least 10 years and plant mixes of native grasses and wildflowers. Likewise, through NRCS’s Conservation Stewardship Program (CSP) and Environmental Quality Incentives Program (EQIP), landowners can earn incentives and cost-shares by planting habitats for pollinators. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and MDC recently partnered with these organizations to make monarch butterfly habitat restoration projects more viable for property owners.With Missouri right in the middle of the monarch butterfly migratory highway, the state has many organizations geared to create or enhance monarch habitat to aid in their migration. The citizen-science-based collaborative Missourians for Monarchs developed the first state-level conservation plan focused on the monarch butterfly. The group aims to plant roughly 20,000 acres of pollinator habitat each year for the next 20 years. MU Extension is also planting milkweed and other native wildflowers on many of its properties across the state, creating waypoints for monarchs as they pass through. Although the focus is on monarchs, many pollinators benefit from these wildflower plantings.Several other organizations in Missouri have pollinator-focused conservation programs. The St. Louis Zoo’s Center for Native Pollinator Conservation collaborates with the Missouri Department of Transportation to develop pollinator rights-of-way, leads outreach programs, and helps conduct the Bumblebee Specialist Group with IUCN. The Missouri Botanical Garden leads the collaborative effort Project Pollinator in St. Louis to promote pollinator awareness and create habitat. Numerous beekeeping groups, including the Missouri State Beekeepers Association, lead theory- and practice-based courses for beginning and experienced beekeepers alike. Grow Native, a plant marketing and education organization founded by the Missouri Prairie Foundation, helps protect and restore biodiversity by increasing conservation awareness of native plants and their effective use in various landscapes.One of the greatest successes in pollinator preservation efforts in Missouri is the partnership these organizations formed in 2016 through the new position of monarch and pollinator coordinator, funded by the nonprofit organizations Pheasants Forever and Quail Forever. This position was created to unite over 30 different interested groups in working towards common goals. These efforts and partnerships make Missouri one of the most forward-thinking states in the pollinator conservation movement.Landowner assistance for benefitting pollinatorsFederalThe U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) provides guidance and financial assistance to landowners participating in certain conservation programs through the National Resource Conservation Service (NRCS) and the Farm Service Agency (FSA).In March 2017, NRCS introduced a new conservation practice standard (CPS) to benefit pollinators. CPS 643 centers on providing food, shelter and nesting resources for native pollinator species. See the conservation practice standard 643 fact sheets in the resources section for information on managing habitats for native pollinators.FSA oversees a conservation reserve program (CRP) with an initiative that specifically addresses pollinator habitat, CP-42. For information on this initiative, see the CRP fact sheet in the resources section and inquire at your county’s FSA office.Additionally, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s Partners for Fish and Wildlife Program can provide technical assistance and potential savings through equipment and materials sharing.StateThe Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC) administrates a Landowner Assistance Program (LAP) that can provide up to 75 percent cost-share for suitable habitat establishment, as well as some additional options.A Habitat Challenge Grant (HCG) program may apply in some situations, as may some MDC cost-share programs for wildlife in general, which could also benefit pollinators.Opportunities for improved conservationAgriculture offers many opportunities for improved pollinator conservation practices. For example, most milkweed in Missouri is found in and around farms. Given that nearly half of Missouri’s land is in agricultural use, small improvements on farms could significantly benefit pollinator habitat. Research revealed that small, diversified farms usually have a richer community of pollinators and receive better pollination services than farms with more uniform broad-scale plantings. Although large commodity farms often cannot realistically diversify their croplands, they can implement practices, such as the following, that provide improvements for pollinators and other wildlife:Rotate crops as part of an IPM strategy that will help mitigate pests, decreasing the necessity for pesticides.Plant marginal lands along fences and around ponds with native wildflowers and perennials. Many seeds — such as clover, coneflower and aster — do well broadcasted over bare soil in fall or winter.Practice prescribed burning between October and February to help control exotic plants, promote vegetative regrowth, and provide bare soil for ground-nesting bees (Figure 8).Leave land fallow or plant it in cover crop between plantings to boost soil fertility and provide pollinators with foraging resources.Plant buffer zones along crop edges, between properties and along bodies of water if you intend to use pesticides. This practice will help reduce unwanted drift.Designate no-till zones to minimize disturbance of ground-nesting bees and destruction of their nests. This practice also creates a more biodiverse soil, which can provide more fertility and pest control.Leave weeds around the farm. Many of the plants we consider weeds, such as dandelions and henbit, are actually great sources of forage for pollinators.Enroll in CRP, CSP or EQIP programs. Many of the above practices will qualify farmers and landowners to receive cost-sharing or other financial incentives through these programs.Figure 8. The practice of burning prairie reduces woody species and promotes the growth of native forbs and legumes.Although Missouri’s major commodity crops — corn, soybean and wheat — do not require animals for pollination, incorporating these practices into a farming operation will allow farmers to reap improved pollination services in their gardens and orchards. Benefits also flow to the natural pollination networks, which will help maintain Missouri’s biodiversity and ecosystem health. Enhanced pollinator-friendly farming practices across the state are perhaps the greatest opportunity for improved pollinator conservation.Make a difference for pollinators with your farm or rural propertyBecause most Missouri land is in private ownership, landowners have the power to make a difference for pollinators. Much of Missouri’s privately held land is devoted to agriculture and is used for either row crop production, animal forage production in pastures and hay fields, or other unspecified activities. Through applying best management practices for pollinators on their land, farmers and other rural landholders can enhance habitat for pollinators. For guidance, consult the Missourians for Monarchs habitat initiative’s three-part Best Management Practices series:Row Crop ProductionMonarch Habitat (Grazing)Management Activities for Rural or Private LandsExisting natural areas — including state parks, conservation areas, national forests, and even the urban forest or prairie patch — also represent opportunities for improving pollinator forage and habitat. Simple steps, such as introducing a greater variety of pollinator-friendly plants that flower throughout the season, will benefit pollinators. Be sure to consult or partner with MDC or NRCS before transporting seeds and introducing new species to an area. Enhancing existing natural areas is a great way to improve pollinator conservation.In addition, any vacant or marginal land in towns and cityscapes is an opportunity for improved pollinator habitat. These spots includes swathes along sidewalks, community gardens, golf courses, road margins, utility easements, school or business campuses, urban spaces and the like. With a bit of organization and planning, these vacant spots can hold a diversity of wildflowers and perennials for pollinator forage and nesting. These plantings will not only provide a richer habitat for pollinators and other wildlife but will also create more pleasant and welcoming neighborhoods for residents.Doing your partOne of the most exciting aspects of pollinator conservation is that there is a lot each of us can do to improve the status of pollinators. Indeed, with 93 percent of Missouri land in private ownership, it is up to us. Our decisions as consumers and actions as homeowners shape the landscapes around us, which in turn impact habitats for pollinators and other animals. Here are some ways to get involved.Landscaping and gardeningLandscaping and gardening for pollinators and other wildlife is one of the best ways to engage in pollinator conservation. It can be done on any scale, from the suburban home to large acreages of forest and pasture. The guiding principles for pollinator conservation are to provide resources for foraging and habitat, to leave undisturbed areas for hibernation, and to eliminate the use of pesticides and other chemicals whenever possible.Good planning is key to success. Think about the space you have to work with, including vertical space for climbing plants. Make efficient use of space by layering levels of the canopy with different flowering trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants. Plant mixes that offer different sizes, shapes and colors of flowers that bloom at the same time, as well as flowers that bloom spring through fall. Try to ensure ground habitat and hibernation spaces are available for bees away from paths and foot traffic. Also, keep the area as free of agrochemicals as possible. Considering these tips when planning your project will help you to cultivate a more valuable space for pollinators.Once thought to stifle biodiversity, urban and suburban areas are now seen to have the potential to host a variety of pollinators. Diverse floral and nesting plantings across yards, parks and schools can create a mix of resources for pollinators and other wildlife (Figure 9). Such areas contribute not only to local diversity but also to the diversity of the monarch flyway, along which monarch butterflies make their way to and from Mexico each year. Further, the pollinators themselves and the seeds and fruits that result from their labor provide primary nourishment for many migratory birds and other animals. A diverse and pesticide-free planting regimen can bring a more robust and diverse pollinator community to your property. If you plant it, they will come.Figure 9. A vertically layered garden can provide quality resources for pollinators, with a mix of floral sources and habitat from lawns to bushes to trees.AnnualsThe efforts to create stunning flower displays with annuals has largely overlooked their potential benefit to pollinators. Some popular annuals often used in such displays are the shade-loving impatiens and the full-sun-desiring petunias. Neither provides much to pollinators; in the case of petunias, nectar productivity was bred out.Many annuals still naturally provide resources to benefit pollinators, but some do not. Because of the public’s renewed interest in pollinators, however, flower breeders are trying to restore pollen and floral resources to some new introductions. As these come onto the market, the plant tags and promotional point-of-purchase advertising will help educate consumers about which plants are pollinator-friendly. Meanwhile, Table 1 lists prospects to include in your garden, landscape or planters. For a more comprehensive list, see the Cincinnati Zoo’s lists of best plants for pollinators.Table 1. Some common annual flowers that benefit pollinators.Common nameScientific nameSweet alyssumLabularia maritimaBachelor’s button, or cornflowerCentaurea cyanusCosmos*Cosmos bipinnatusFlowering tobaccoNicotiana alataLantanaLantana camaraMarigold*Tagetes spp.Portulaca, such as moss rose*Portulaca spp.Spider flowerCleome hasslerianaSunflowers*Helianthus annuusZinniasZinnia spp.*Use single blooming types; avoid doubles.PerennialsThe opportunity to add habitat and floral resources for pollinators is likely the greatest with herbaceous ornamental perennials. Selecting and organizing plants for a butterfly garden is a bit more complicated. For maximum benefit, it needs to contain food plants for the caterpillars and nectar plants for the butterflies or moths.Many resources are available to help gardeners — from novice to experienced and ambitious — select plants to attract pollinators. One such resource is the Grow Native program, which provides numerous sample garden plans that include specific plant recommendations. Native plants have proven to be successful at attracting and sustaining pollinators.A pollinator garden will generally do best in a location that receives full sun, which means it receives at least about eight hours of direct sunlight a day. Before planting a garden, you will need to determine how to lay it out, whether to start from seeds or with plants, and what care it will need once established. The site and any plans you work from will require detailed consideration, but here are a few simple concepts to keep in mind:Choose a variety of flower colors to attract diverse pollinators.Select plants to provide floral resources all season long.Plant in groups or drifts to make the flowers easily visible to pollinators.Group plants of the same species rather than scattering them throughout.Don't forget the herbsWhether annual or perennial, many herbs serve pollinators well. Here are 10 that are easy to grow: basil, borage, chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, lavender, mint, oregano and sage.Table 2 presents examples of perennials that are widely recognized as being excellent for pollinators. Much research has been, and continues to be, done to identify the best perennials for pollinators, so such plant lists change over time and no one list is definitive. There are many appropriate plants to choose from, each with its own pros and cons (for example, one may be a wonderful pollinator plant, but also be unattractive and thorny). Some key points have emerged from the research:There can be year-to-year variation, so data should be collected over several years.Total pollinator visits is generally considered the most important result, but it needs to be balanced by the diversity of pollinators attracted. For example, a given plant may be highly attractive to honey bees but not to many other pollinators.Named cultivars or selections are generally somewhat less attractive than a mix of that same species, but the difference is not significant or consistent enough to cause great concern. If you like a particular plant and it’s good for pollinators, use it.Table 2. Alphabetical list by genus of select perennials recognized for attracting pollinators in the Midwest and South Central U.S.GenusWell-regarded speciesCommon generic nameCommon specific nameAgastacheA. foeniculum, A. nepetoidesHyssopAnise, yellow giantAsclepiasA. incarnata, A. purpuracens, A. syriaca, A. tuberosaMilkweedSwamp, purple, common, butterflyBaptisiaB. australis, B. bracteataIndigoBlue false, wild creamCoreopsisC. lanceolate, C. tripteris, C. verticillataTickseedLanceleaf, tall, ZagrebDaleaD. candida, D. foliosa, D. purpureaPrairie cloverWhite, leafy, purpleEchinaceaE. pallida, E. paradoxa, E. purpureaConeflowerpale purple, yellow, and purpleEryngiumE. yuccifoliumRattlesnake master EupatoriumE. coelestinum, E. hyssopifolium, E. perfoliatumWild ageratum, thoroughwort, bonset EutrochiumE. dubium, E. fistulosumJoe Pye weedCoastal plain, spottedGeraniumG. wallichianum x himalayense, G. maculatum, G. x cantabrigienseGeraniumAzure Rush, wild, BiokovoHelianthusH. divaricatus, H. multiflorusSunflowerWoodland, many-floweredLiatrisL. microcephala, L. pycnostachya, L. scariosaBlazing starDwarf, prairie, easternLobeliaL. cardinalis, L. siphiliticaCardinal flowerRed, blueMonardaM. fistulosa, M. punctataWild bergamot, bee balm PenstemonP. digitalisBeardtongueTall white, Dark TowersPhloxP. maculata x glaberrima, P. paniculataPhloxMinnie Pearl, gardenPycnanthemumP. muticum, P. tenuifoliumMountain mintClustered, narrowleafSolidagoS. drummondii, S. nemoralis, S. rigida, S. speciosaGoldenrodCliff, gray, stiff, showySymphyotrichumS. laeve, S. novae-angliae, S. oblongifoliumAsterBlue, New England, aromaticVeronicastrumV. virginicumCulver’s root Trees and shrubsTrees and shrubs that benefit pollinatorsThis list of some common trees and shrubs that benefit pollinators may give you an appreciation for ones you might already have in your yard or nearby.American beautyberryBlack locustDogwoodElderberryHickoryHoney locustMaplePawpawPecanPersimmonPlumPussytoesSassafrasServiceberrySpireaWillowWitchhazelA simple best management practice to aid pollinators is to provide pollen and nectar sources from early spring to late fall. To do this, include trees and shrubs in your plantings. Trees and shrubs are especially needed early in the season. Many gardeners and landowners already have pollinator-friendly woody plants, but likely don’t realize it and may be able to plant more. Table 3 identifies select trees and shrubs to consider planting for pollinators.Be aware that plants with like names are not necessarily equal in attractiveness to pollinators. For example, consider the well-known Viburnum garden shrubs. The viburnums include a Burkwood hybrid, which is attractive to pollinators, and Koreanspice viburnum, which is not.Hydrangea shrubs have become more popular because they tolerate shade and provide long-lasting color. However, most do not benefit pollinators, although some species, such as Hydrangea paniculata Grandiflora are moderately beneficial. If you have questions about plants and need objective and scientifically sound advice, try Missouri Botanical Garden’s online plant finder.Table 3. Select top trees and shrubs for attracting pollinators in the Ohio Valley Region.Common nameScientific nameTreesCornelian cherryCornus masFlowering cherryPrunus spp.Flowering crabappleMalus spp.Red horsechestnut*Aesculus x carneaEastern redbud*Cercis canadensisGolden raintreeKoelreuteria reticulataDevil’s walking stick*Aralia spinosaBee bee treeTetradium danieliiWinged sumac*Rhus copallinumSeven-son flowerHeptacodium miconioidesCommon nameScientific nameShrubsBurkwood viburnumViburnum burkwoodiiFoster’s hollyIlex x attenuataNinebark*Physocarpus opulifoliusFalse Indigo*Amorpha fruticosaButtonbush*Cephalanthus occidentalisClimbing rose*Rosa setigeraCommon winterberry*Ilex verticillataBottlebrush buckeye*Aesculus parvifloraSt. John’s Wort*Hypericum frondosumClethra*Clethra alnifolia*Native plant.Adapted from the University of Kentucky and Horticultural Research Institute handout Woody Ornamentals for Bee-Friendly Landscapes (Ohio Valley Region).VegetablesFor vegetables to benefit pollinators, they need to flower. However, many are harvested before they do (for example, cabbage, carrots, broccoli, beets, lettuce, onions and radishes). Several flowering vegetables benefit some pollinators but don’t require pollinators for flower fertilization (for example, green beans, sweet corn, tomatoes and peppers); pollinators generally improve their fertilization though.The royalty of the veggie patch for pollinators is the plant family Cucurbitaceae, also known as the cucurbits. Members of this royal family include cucumbers, gourds, melons, squash and watermelons. Pollinators are required to successfully fertilize their flowers. Therefore, it shouldn’t be surprising that cucurbit flowers are highly attractive to many pollinators, especially bees. You are sure to benefit pollinators if you grow cucurbits. If you need to treat them with an insecticide, apply it in the evening.Use buckwheat as a cover crop in your vegetable garden whenever possible. Bees love it. Cover crops can also be used in other applications (Figure 10).Figure 10. Although cover crops are generally identified with vegetable gardening, they can also be used in other applications, such as to condition the soil for a new planting bed.Backyard habitat for monarchsSizeA suitable monarch habitat can be easily integrated with an existing flower garden. The minimum size of a milkweed planting is 9 square feet; however, a truly effective monarch habitat will be at least 100 square feet. The total area may be split among several sites at your location, and there is no upper limit for the size of a monarch habitat.ExposureMonarch-friendly plants need lots of sun; therefore, monarch habitats need to be located in an area that receives at least six hours of sun a day. Find shade tolerance of recommended plants on the Missouri Department of Conservation's (MDC) backyard habitat for monarch butterflies webpage.Drainage and soil typeMilkweeds and nectar plants will do best in relatively light (low-clay) soils. Good drainage is needed to avoid root rot and provide good aeration of the roots. Areas with poor drainage may need more moisture-tolerant species such as swamp milkweed and New England aster.ShelterTo ensure that the maximum number of monarchs survive in your habitat, the plants should be located relatively close together. However, they should not be crowded—be sure to follow the planting recommendations specific to each plant. All monarch life stages need shelter from predators and the elements. Planting milkweeds and nectar plants close together contributes to this shelter for monarchs and other wildlife.FoodMilkweed plants. Monarch butterfly larvae only eat milkweed. Therefore, to maximize the use of your habitat by monarchs, include a number of milkweed species. It is best to have at least 10 plants, made up of two or more species; however, a large number of plants (more than 10) of one species is sufficient. Milkweeds of different species mature and flower at different times during the season. By increasing the number of milkweed species in your habitat, you will increase the likelihood that monarchs will use your property for a longer period during the breeding season.Nectar plants. Monarchs, other butterflies, and numerous pollinators need nectar. When your monarch habitat provides nectar sources that bloom sequentially, it supplies nutrients throughout the breeding season and the migration in the fall. A monarch habitat should contain at least four biennial or perennial native plants that provide nectar for butterflies.Native plant species recommended for MissouriVisit MDC's monarch webpage for a list of recommended native wildflowers for monarchs along with planting diagrams. Plants, rather than seeds, are recommended in flower gardens to obtain the fastest results. Local sources for seeds and plants of these native species can be found on Grow Native's website. Learn about propagating milkweed plants in the Missouri Conservationist magazine article "Homegrown Milkweeds."(Photo and text of this section courtesy of the Missouri Department of Conservation)Eco-friendly lawnsMany homeowners cherish pristine lawns. Unfortunately, to maintain such lawns, they often use high concentrations of agrochemicals, with the unintended result of biodiversity dead zones. Lawns are constantly trying to revert to grassland or forest. By understanding this urge, we can better understand nature’s processes and create a space for more biodiversity. Plus, the so-called weeds that appear can tell us much about the health and condition of our soil. For example, dandelions are indicators of acidic, compacted soil, and they break up this soil with their deep taproots. Similarly, clovers are an indication of nitrogen-poor soils, which they help to improve through a fascinating, mutually beneficial relationship with root-dwelling rhizobia bacteria that convert atmospheric nitrogen to usable nitrogen in the soil. Dandelions, clovers and other nuisance weeds are important sources of forage for pollinators and are critical for lawn, soil and ecosystem health (Figure 11).Figure 11. Letting part of your lawn go wild is an easy way to provide important forage sources for pollinators.Thus, you could save money and time, and observe more pollinators by letting part of your lawn go wild. By letting nature take its course in your lawn, you will provide pollinators with much needed additional forage in suburban or urban areas. You will also become more attuned to the natural processes of your local ecosystem, and have a more biodiverse and exciting lawn, which could serve as a talking point to get others interested in pollinator conservation.An alternative to letting part of your lawn go wild is to plant an eco-friendly lawn. Doing so is more possible now than it has been in the past due to the demand that has developed through home gardeners and professionals in parks, golf courses and other landscape niches. Although most seed sold for lawns is purely grass, several mixes are available. Local retailers may not carry them, but you can find sources online by searching on terms such as “eco-friendly lawn seed mixes,” “alternative lawns” or “eco-lawn.” Some of these seed products are only grass, which might provide benefits such as being drought tolerant or needing little or no mowing. Some prominently featured blends, however, include microclover. Other blends go beyond just clover and include a mix of low-profile flowers or flowers that tolerate occasional mowing, such as sweet alyssum, baby blue eyes and white yarrow — all which benefit pollinators. Be aware that dandelions will find their way into such a pollinator-friendly habitat. For best success in establishing an eco-friendly lawn, plant into freshly tilled soil in an area in which the previous vegetation has been killed or removed. Follow the specific recommendations of the seed mix. In Missouri, seeding in late summer or early spring would be preferred to ensure germination of clover and cool-season grasses. During the first summer, keep the new lawn watered during dry spells to ensure the perennial clover and grasses establish successfully.A plant that reduces lawn fertilizer useIf you want to use less fertilizer to benefit pollinators, consider adding microclover to your lawn. Microclover (Trifolium repens L. var. Pirouette) is a selection from white clover (Trifolium repens) that has smaller leaves and a lower growth habit. Because it is shorter, more of its flowers are retained when mowed — flowers that provide pollen and nectar for pollinators.When seeded at an appro­priate rate, microclover mixes better with most turfgrass species than common white clover does. It does not form clumps or compete excessively with desirable turfgrasses. Because it fixes nitrogen in the soil, microclover reduces fertilizer use an estimated 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet a year.Agroforesty practices for pollinator habitatAgroforestry provides a unique opportunity to enhance nectar and pollen sources and nesting sites for crop-pollinating bees. Weed contromil should be concentrated to a narrow strip nearest the trees to leave as much undisturbed area as possible for flowering plants and nesting sites.Riparian forest buffers are excellent locations to incorporate early flowering willows, as well as shrubs and forbs that require more water than is naturally available elsewhere. Riparian buffers are especially important for bees during hot summer months in areas where plants in upland areas dry out.Windbreaks and hedgerows, by design, reduce wind velocity in adjacent fields. Windbreaks provide places to plant flowering trees and shrubs and other blooming perennials close to fields. Make a special effort to include flowering forbs on the margins of the windbreak or hedgerow. The area between the trees could also be used for beneficial forbs during the establishment period of the windbreak.Silvopasture provides an open understory where a variety of flowering forbs, such as alfalfa or clover, can be over seeded. When combined with rotational grazing practices, these legumes will have an opportunity to flower before being eaten. Clusters of flowering shrubs could provide benefits for pollinators and other wildlife. Depending on the location, harvestable flowering trees, such as black cherry, black locust, or maple, can be included into a silvopasture system.Alley cropping presents an opportunity to grow plants in close proximity that have complementary flowering periods. By paying careful attention to bloom periods and using multiple species, an alley cropping system can provide nearly continuous pollen and nectar forage within a single farmscape. Consider flowering trees such as black cherry or basswood along with the more typical alley cropping trees of walnut, pecan or oak. A legume forage crop between rows will not only fix nitrogen but also provide nectar and pollen for bees. Diverse native forbs and shrubs may be planted in rows for cut flowers, berry production, or the nursery market, as well as for pollinators.Forest farming simultaneously manages both forest overstory and understory plants. Include insect-pollinated valuable crop trees, such as yellow (tulip) poplar, maple, basswood and black cherry, in the overstory to benefit pollinators. Some cultivated understory plants, such as ginseng, goldenseal and black cohosh, may also benefit from pollinators. For example, black cohosh generally relies on bumble bees for pollination, but it does not produce nectar to attract the bees. It must rely on nearby prolific nectar producers, such as pale touch-me-not or whiteflower leafcup, to attract the bees. The pollination of these different forest understory plants is not well understood, but pollinators should be encouraged.Other sites — such as existing natural habitat, field and road edges, drainage ditches, land around buildings, and fields that are too wet or too dry for crop production — also provide convenient, under-used places to cultivate bee forage.Citizen scienceThe practice of science is not reserved only for individuals with lab coats and advanced degrees. Nor is it as complex or hard to grasp as you might think. You can get involved. Simply knowing when a flower is in bloom or when migrant birds arrive in an area helps scientists understand how nature changes over time. When such information is compiled across the state, country or planet, it can create a wonderfully representative snapshot of biological change and ecosystem processes. Indeed, because of today’s increased access to information and ability to share it, citizens are becoming irreplaceable in science. From climate change to bird-watching, and everything in between, ordinary people around the world are compiling data that is used to help understand current issues, inform policy, and enact conservation.Figure 12. Citizen science projects include planting pollinator gardens in public spaces.Citizen scientists have many opportunities to engage in pollinator research at local and national levels (Figure 12). Some popular options are described below (see Resources for links to their sites).Bumblebee Watch is a collaborative for tracking and conserving North American bumble bees. Users can learn about bumble bee ecology and identification, stay up-to-date on conservation statuses, map sightings, upload photos and create virtual collections, and communicate with other citizen scientists.The Great Sunflower Project maps the pollinators and pollination services across North America. The website provides information about pollinator diversity and ecology, and offers interactive maps and historical data. People are encouraged to record sightings from such places as their homes, schools, gardens and favorite trails. When compiled, this data helps us better see the pollinator status in North America.BeeSpotter is like Bumblebee Watch and the Great Sunflower Project, except it is specific to the Midwest. This project originated at the University of Illinois and focuses on the pollinators of Missouri, Illinois, Indiana and Ohio. On the website, you can learn about bees, submit findings, explore maps and data, and stay up-to-date on pollinator-related events and opportunities in the Midwest.The e-Butterfly website is filled with butterfly dynamic range maps, historical data, checklists and galleries. Here, you can upload and organize your butterfly photos, share observations with other enthusiasts from across the country and Canada, and contribute towards science and conservation. This website is one of the largest and richest data sources for butterfly distribution and abundance in the United States and is praised by science professionals.Journey North, Monarch Watch and Monarch Larva Monitoring Project are citizen scientist projects focused entirely on the monarch butterfly. You can submit your sightings, explore migration maps, buy rearing kits and milkweed, share with others, and get information on the latest reports and events. Check out these projects so you will be ready for the next monarch migration.Citizen science projects are crucial to fully understand and reduce the declines in pollinators and pollination services across the U.S. Most important is for citizen scientists to provide accurate and honest reports. Key to these reports is the proper identification of pollinators. Differences in pollinators, especially bees, can be very subtle, which can make identification a real challenge — even for the expert. If you are unsure, snap some photos to share with others or refer to later with a guidebook. You can improve your identification skills through publications, courses, observation, photography, and websites such as those listed above, and by connecting with pollinator-savvy interest groups or individuals. Join the effort to learn about and conserve our pollinators by getting involved in citizen science.ConclusionPollinators are vital for the health of both managed and natural landscapes. Without them, there would be fewer food plants for humans and a decline in biodiversity across most land-based ecosystems. They face many threats via habitat loss, disease, pests and chemicals. Given the trend of early the 2000s, the U.S. will likely lose many species of pollinators before the end of the century.However, public awareness of the plight of bees and butterflies has increased. Popular again, they are more present than ever in art, culture, product marketing, policy, and scientific research. There is great momentum in Missouri and world­wide to understand pollinator declines and implement conservation practices. Pollinator conservation affects everyone and requires collaboration from all — the poet, farmer, scientist and consumer alike — to be wholly effective.Conservation efforts for pollinators will benefit other wildlife, as the food web demonstrates. An obvious example is with birds, for which caterpillars are an important food source. Habitat created to benefit pollinators, including butterflies and moths, will help provide birds with an important food source in nature. You can make a difference whether you have a small garden or large farm.The importance of citizen science in shifting public perception and policy, cannot be overstated. Although the public’s appreciation of insects might be relatively recent, citizens can look to other conservation organizations and their activities for ideas and motivation. The Audubon Society is widely known and recognized for how it has protected birds, but its activities have also benefitted other wildlife with the conserved habitat. A citizen science success story is the society’s annual Christmas bird count, which not only energizes many, but also provides information that affects public policy. It is exciting to see similar opportunities now available for pollinators. A key role of a Master Pollinator Steward is to consider ways to engage and help bring the pollinators back.Recommended readingThe Forgotten Pollinators by S.L. Buchmann and G.P. Nathan (1997, Island Press, Washington D.C.) is perhaps the book that made the public aware of pollinator decline, and was published nearly a decade before colony collapse disorder was identified. This book is a well-written introduction to the role of pollinators in ecosystems and a call to arms for conservation and habitat restoration.Natural Beekeeping: Organic Approaches to Modern Apiculture by R. Conrad (2013, Chelsea Green Publishing, Vermont) is a great book for the beekeeper interested in natural management practices. It is well-written and easy to read, and applying its practices will leave you with stronger, healthier hives.The Bees in Your Backyard: A Guide to North America’s Bees by J.S. Wilson and O.J. Messinger Carrill (2016, Princeton University Press, New Jersey) is perhaps the most useful modern guidebook for bee enthusiasts. It is full of wonderful photos, helpful identification guides, native planting charts, and life history characteristics of all the major bee families in North America.Attracting Native Pollinators: Protecting North America’s Bees and Butterflies by Xerces Society (2011, Storey Publishing, Massachusetts) is a fantastic book about creating pollinator habitat in your yard or on your property. It has helpful guides for native plants by region and a bee identification guide.Pollinator Conservation Handbook by Xerces Society (2003, Xerces Society Publishing, Oregon) is a great introduction to all issues relating to pollinator conservation in the U.S. It includes an expansive reading list, native plant guides, and activities for educators.ResourcesBeeSpotterBumblebee WatchCincinnati Zoo’s lists of best plants for pollinatorsConservation practice standard 643 fact sheetsNative Pollinators: Missouri Job Sheet (PDF)Native Forb Information Sheet (PDF)Conservation Reserve Program fact sheetPollinator Habitat Planting: CP42 (PDF)e-ButterflyThe Great Sunflower ProjectGrow Native landscape plans (link updated 7/30/20)Journey NorthMissouri Botanical Garden plant finderMissouri Department of ConservationBackyard habitat for monarch butterfliesMissourians for MonarchsBest management practicesMonarch Larva Monitoring ProjectMonarch WatchNational Resource Conservation ServiceNational Science FoundationUniversity of Missouri Center for AgroforestryUniversity of Missouri Extension publicationsG9500, Improving Habitats for Wildlife in Your Backyard and NeighborhoodMP927, Assessing Wildlife Habitats and Natural Resources in Neighborhoods and Urban Environments: A Planning Guide for Wildlife Habitats in Urban AreasU.S. Fish and Wildlife ServiceXerces SocietyText creditsThe text of the agroforestry practices section was adapted from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, National Agroforestry Center’s Agroforestry Note 33, Improving Forage for Native Bee Crop Pollinators.Figure creditsAchillea and Amada44, Wikimedia Commons, GNU General Public LicenseVecton, Shutterstock.comCollage of several stock photosU.S. Department of Agriculture, Agriculture Research ServiceU.S. Department of Agriculture, Agriculture Research ServiceU.S. Geological SurveyGrandpa, Shutterstock.comU.S. Department of EnergyDavid Hawgood, Geograph Project Limited, CC BY-SA 2.0Jim Quinn, University of Missouri ExtensionWirepec, Bigstock.comPark Ranger Sarah Peace, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers