Inquiring readers, I despise housework. As I lugged my vacuum cleaner from room to room I thought: ‘It could be worse. I would only have a broom or mop had I lived in 1810.’ And s…

One of the major reasons the Regency era continues to fascinate me is the increasing importance of the city as industrialization begins to change the face of th

The Bartered Bride is out now in USA. Coming soon there the Hanover Square trilogy and cming here soon, paperback in august is Bought For the Harem. Dearest Mama I write to you from Italy, where I have spent a pleasant month with my sister Horatia and her friends. I must tell you that the climate suits my health and I have decided to settle here. There is a very pleasant villa not far from my sister's home and it is there I shall live. The estate will be sold and while I realise this may leave you without a home I am offering you the chance of living here with me and the lady I intend to marry, as soon as her family will allow it - or a house in Bath. I am quite prepared to purchase a house in Bath for you, dear Mama. My lawyers will make certain that you have all you need - but should you wish to visit either Horatia or myself we shall be delighted to see you. I know you feel my sister has disgraced the family but I assure you that here no one regards it. She is welcomed by most of the local notables, though some visiting English do not wish to be known to her. However, her divorce is soon to be complete and then she will marry. I must tell you that she is expecting her husband-t-be's baby and very happy. We should all like to see both you and Antonia. Your loving son, Robert Hope you enjoyed this little series. I expect it will be back to excerpts next time. Best wishes Anne Herries

Regency women went to great lengths to achieve an effortless, romantic look with long, flowing lines to their dresses and hairstyles. Even their dresses, which appeared to have little underneath, h…

I love to use real historical events in my novels and in A Reason for Romance ( The Merry Romances 2), set in 1810, some of my characters go skating on the Serpentine in Hyde Park, London . The downside of wanting to be historically accurate is my sometimes frantic searching for details. In

Appearing in the 1808 La Belle Assemblee, this ad promoted Mr. Swainson's miracle vegetable syrup. Swainson was called a "radical quack" who sold vegetable syru

Visitor safety in Regency London was important because many such London visitors had no idea what to expect and did not realize that from the moment they

Skating in Georgian England usually meant using a wooden frame shod with iron and then bound to the boot and ankle—like gladiator sandals—with leather straps.

Healthful Sports for Young Ladies was written by Mlle St. Sernin, a French governess, and delightfully illustrated by Jean Demosthene Dugourc (1749-1825). The book, which described exercises that w…

By the late Georgian era, gone were the towering headdresses. In its place was a woman's natural hair. Women's Georgian hair had a more natural look and

If you’ve been in the costuming community for a while, then you’d know how difficult it is to find resources that show you how make your own reproductions for period appropriate clothes…

I often run across references to Le Bon Genre as I research potential blog posts. Well, I’ve finally found the obscure book or, more accurately, a series of prints illustrating Parisian social life in the early 1800s. I’ve posted about twenty images from the many in the document. If you are a Jane Austen or … Continue reading "Le Bon Genre – Parisian Social Life in the Early 1800s"

I came across this book published anonymously in 1770 with containing full instructions for someone who wished to set up their own academy – a sort of ‘how to’ guide. It was very …

While several educational academies existed for girls in the years following the American Revolution, few proved more influential than Sarah Pierce’s Litchfield Female Academy.

I often run across references to Le Bon Genre as I research potential blog posts. Well, I’ve finally found the obscure book or, more accurately, a series of prints illustrating Parisian social life in the early 1800s. I’ve posted about twenty images from the many in the document. If you are a Jane Austen or … Continue reading "Le Bon Genre – Parisian Social Life in the Early 1800s"

Ross Perfumery, Bishopsgate St London circa 1816 from The Repository of arts, literature, commerce, manufactures, fashions and politics

Moon, M. Harris (1992)

A blog about Regency and late Georgian history.

I have been blogging about antiques and material culture since 2010, about a year after I graduated from the Winterthur Program in American Material Culture. I’ve found that blogging is a fun…

My starting point for this post is a book that will fascinate anyone interested in Georgian London – The Epicure’s Almanac: Eating and Drinking in Regency London by Ralph Rylance, edit…

Tuesday, 1 January, 1811 A very dull looking morning and hard frost. C very kind. Mr Coles came directly after breakfast to take directions for making Cooper’s Will. It snowd a little last night…

We largely tend to take the lavatory for granted nowadays, but in pre-Victorian times, the average person’s daily constitutional would have likely involved varying levels of discomfort, draug…

As my project on the health and medical history of facial hair rolls ever forward, I’ve recently turned my attention to barbers and their role in shaping and managing facial hair through time. Amon…

I thought that given it’s now becoming rather chilly that I would look at one method used during the eighteenth-century to keep warm at night, or when travelling; warming pans (for the bed) a…

Dirk Stoop (Dutch painter, c 1610-1685) Catherine of Braganza Wife of Charles II c 1661 In the 2700s BC, Chinese mythological tales cite the origin of tea-drinking to 2737 BC, when Chinese Emporor Shen Nung sips boiled drinking water into which a tea leaf has floated. By the 3rdC of the Common Era (AD), many oral stories & some early written medical texts about tea drinks and their health benefits date back to this period in Southeast Asian countries, where the tea plant (camellia sinensis) is native. In the 6thC, Indian & Japanese legends tell that Indian prince Bodhidharma “couldn’t keep his eyes open while meditating to become a Buddhist priest. Disgusted with himself, he cut off his eyelids & threw them to the ground. From his lashes the camellia (aka tea) plant sprouted.” New tea gardens follow the spread of Buddhism across Asia, as Buddhist monks in China & Japan begin saving the seeds of tea trees, planting them along their travels. In the 8thC, Chinese tea scholar Lu Yü wrote what is thought to be the 1st book about tea: Ch’a Ching (The Classic of Tea), describing tea’s cultivation, processing, preparation & tea rituals of ancient Asia. A Classic of Tea was written around CE 760 by Lu Yu (733-804), a native of Jingling, located in modern-day Hubei Province. It became popular for its systematic & comprehensive research from the perspective of both the natural & social aspects of tea. It has laid the solid foundation for a uniquely Chinese culture of tea that has fascinated the rest of the world for more than a thousand years. As a result, Lu Yu is known as the “Sage of Tea” in China. By the 9thC, tea, called “ch’a,” in China becomes the national drink during the Tang Dynasty (618 to 906), would remain China’s secret for the next 700 years. China did not want to divulge the propagation & drying methods that had been dutifully kept within the confines of the Great Wall. A penalty of death was the price paid for even mentioning roasting & drying. Tea leaves were so valuable that, compressed into embossed bricks, they were even used for money. Teahouses & tea gardens are now commonplace throughout China. By the 16thC, Japanese Imperial tea master & Buddhist monk Sen No Rikyu devised a simple, austere tea ceremony known as ‘wabi cha,’ or the “tea of quiet taste”, which requires a “humble reverence for tea & life. However, it did not appeal to the emperor who preferred a glittering, exhibitionist affair. Because of this difference in taste, Sen Rikyu was commanded to commit suicide.” (See: Israel, Andrea. Taking Tea. New York: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1987). In 1557, Portugal colonizes the Chinese port Macau, & begins bringing tea back to Europe. Arabs also bring tea to Europe by way of their trade with the Venetians in Italy, c 1559. In the 17thC, Black tea (called “red tea” in China where it originated) is invented (until this point, teas are green or oolong). As Russia & China work to establish a safe route for trade caravans to travel, the Chinese ambassador to Moscow makes a gift of several chests of tea to Tsar Aleksey Mikhaylovich, soon making tea a much desired import. It is reported that the Russian aristocracy enjoyed English-style tea ceremonies even before the British made it a part of their culture. There were lavish parties at which society women drank tea as their male companions downed cold vodka. Prior to its importation to Europe by Dutch traders around 1610, tea was almost unknown to most Westerners, who routinely began their day with a mug of beer or ale. Three exotic beverages—coffee, tea, and chocolate—arrived in 17C Europe at a time of burgeoning exploration and trade, and their arrival caused a near revolution in drinking habits. Celebrated by some, deplored by others, these stimulating brews gave rise to a number of important social institutions, such as the coffeehouse, the tea garden, and the ritual of afternoon tea. In the 17thC, Dutch settlers of New Amsterdam bring the first tea to America in the early 1600s, but Americans do not take instantly to the custom of taking tea. Andrea Israel tells us that “There were still those new Americans who were unfamiliar with the tea leaf. Their dislike of the brown brew probably stemmed from the fact that it was stewed for 2 or 3 hours. Some tried to serve it like spinach with salt & butter, others ate it on toasted bread.” Charles II by Adriaen Hanneman (England, 1603-1671) Tea, then called cha, was imported to Europe during the Portuguese expansion of the 16th century. Portuguese Catherine of Braganza, wife of England's Charles II, took the tea habit to the court of Great Britain around 1662. Though Portuguese and Dutch traders have for decades been importing tea to Western Europe, it is King Charles II’s marriage to the Portuguese princess Catherine of Braganza, that ultimately makes tea-drinking popular amongst the British aristocracy. “When Catherine married Charles, she was the focus of attention – everything from her clothes to her furniture became the source of court talk. Her regular drinking of tea encouraged others to drink it. Ladies flocked to copy her and be a part of her circle.” (See: Watkins, Sarah-Beth. Catherine of Braganza: Charles II’s Restoration Queen. (Croydon: Chronos Books, 2017). For The History of Tea see Tea Story Joseph Van Aken (Antwerp-born British painter, c.1699‑1749) A Tea Party 1719-1721. London coffee houses also were responsible for introducing tea to everyday England. One of the 1st coffee house merchants to offer tea was Thomas Garway, who owned an establishment in Exchange Alley in London. He sold both prepared & dry tea to the public as early as 1657. Three years later he issued a broadsheet advertising tea at £6 and £10 per pound touting its virtues at "making the body active and lusty" & "preserving perfect health until extreme old age." Attributed to Johann Zoffany (German-born British painter, 1733-1810), A Family of Three at Tea, 1727 Colonial Americans quickly adopted the taste for these imported beverages and their fashionable equipage. Colonial coffeehouses, following the London model, became powerful social catalysts, providing an excellent forum for the exchange of ideas and the distribution of news. All three beverages were also consumed in the home, where fine silver and ceramic vessels were especially valued, & American Silversmiths emulated British and Continental styles. Charles Philips (British artist, 1703–1747) Tea Party at Lord Harrington's House, St James detail 1730 Tea was an expensive commodity, as were all the items related to its consumption: the tea table, silver, and porcelain. Tea was normally kept locked by the lady of the household. In Britain & her colonies, knowing how to properly use tea equipment and owning fine porcelain china set her apart from her lessers which is why tea sets and tea leaves were often only handled by the mistress of the house. A noblewoman kept the key for the locking tea caddy or teapoy, from which she smartly blended her own teas, in full view of her guests, to reassure them of the quality of the tea she served. Charles Philips (British artist, 1703–1747) The Strong Family detail Portraits of families at tea demonstrated their wealth, domesticity, and genteel informality. Tea-drinking came to epitomize civilized behavior in the 18C. Tea gained popularity quickly in England's coffee houses, & by 1700, over 500 British coffee houses also served tea. Charles Philips (British artist, 1703–1747) The Cromwell and Thornhill Families Taking Tea detail 1730 The rise in popularity of tea drinking distressed the British tavern owners, as tea cut their sales of ale & gin, & it was bad news for the government, who depended upon a steady stream of revenue from taxes on liquor sales. Joseph Van Aken (Antwerp-born British painter, c.1699‑1749) An English Family at Tea 1725 As the century progressed, the use of enslaved labor increased the production of tea and sugar to such an extent that it became available to all classes in society. Detail The Wollaston Family, William Hogarth, 1730 By 1750, tea had become the favored drink of Britain's lower classes, as well as the wealthy. A British Family Served with Tea 1745 Unknown Charles II tried to counter the loss of tax income from spirits arising from the growth of tea, with several acts forbidding its sale in private houses. This measure was designed to counter sedition; but it was so unpopular, that it was impossible to enforce. Philip Reinagle (British painter, 1749-1833) A Lady and Two Gentlemen seated at a tea table A 1676 act taxed tea & required coffee house operators to apply for a license. Failing to curb the popularity of tea, the British government decided to profit from tea. Gawen Hamilton (British artist, 1692-1737) An elegant family at tea By the mid 18th-century, the duty on tea had reached an absurd 119%. This heavy taxation had the effect of creating a whole new industry - tea smuggling. Unknown 18th-Century British Artist, A Tea Party Ships from Holland & Scandinavia brought tea to the British coast, then stood offshore, while smugglers met them unloading their precious cargo in small vessels. The smugglers, often local fishermen, snuck the tea inland through underground passages & hidden paths to special hiding places. One of the favorite hiding places was in the local parish church. Joseph Van Aken (Antwerp-born British painter, c.1699‑1749) An English Family at Tea detail 1720 Even smuggled tea remained expensive for the common man; however, and therefore extremely profitable. Many smugglers began to adulterate the tea with other substances, such as willow, licorice, & sloe leaves. Used tea leaves were also re-dried & added to fresh leaves. Jean-Etienne Liotard (Swiss artist, 1702-1789) Still Life Tea Set, 1781-83 During the 18th century, tea drinking was as popular in Britain’s American colonies as it was in Britain itself. Legally, all tea imported into America had to be shipped from Britain, & all tea imported into Britain had to be shipped in by the East India Company. The practice of tea drinking arrived with colonists from both England and the Netherlands and was already established by the mid-17C, evidenced by the number of tea wares recorded in household inventories. The earliest of these were undoubtedly imported from abroad, but American silversmiths began producing teapots by the start of the 18C. At first globular or pear-shaped, apple-shaped teapots became the norm by the mid-18C. By the later decades, drum- and oval-shaped pots with straight spouts became popular. Francis Hayman (1708-1776), Jonathan Tyers and his family, 1740 However, for most of the 18th century, the East India Company was not allowed to export directly to America. But during the 1770s, the East India Company ran into financial problems: illegal tea smuggling into Britain was vastly reducing the amount of tea being bought from the Company. Ladies Having Tea c 1740 Unknown British artist Smuggling led to a downturn in its profits, as well as an increase in its stockpile of unsold tea. In an attempt to revive its flagging fortunes & avoid bankruptcy, the Company asked the British government for permission to export tea directly to America, a move that would enable it to get rid of its surplus stock of tea. The Company actually owed the government £1 million, so the government had no desire to let the Company go bankrupt. Johann Zoffany (German-born painter, 1733-1810) John, Lord Willoughby de Broke, and his Family. c 1766 Thus in 1773, the Tea Act was passed, granting the Company’s wish, and allowing a duty of 3d per lb to be levied on the exports to America. The Tea Act, passed by Parliament on May 10, 1773, would launch the final spark to the revolutionary movement in Boston. The act was not intended to raise revenue in the American colonies, & imposed no new taxes. It was designed to prop up the East India Company which was floundering financially & burdened with 18 million pounds of unsold tea. This tea was to be shipped directly to the colonies, and sold at a bargain price. Francis Hayman (1708-1776), The Gasciogne Family The Townshend Duties were still in place, however, & the radical leaders in America found reason to believe that this act was a maneuver to buy popular support for the taxes already in force. The direct sale of tea, via British agents, would also have undercut the business of local merchants. The colonials were growing increasingly resentful of "taxation without representation." Drinking tea in the British American colonies, the John Potter Overmantle at the Newport Historical Society in Rhode Island The British government did not anticipate this being a problem for the colonials. By being exported directly to America, the cost of tea there would actually become cheaper, & 3d per lb was considerably less duty than was paid on tea destined for the British market. But it had underestimated the strength of the American resistance to being taxed at all by Britain. The issue of the taxation in America had been hotly debated for some years. Drinking tea in the British American colonies, Gansevoort Limner, possibly Pieter Vanderlyn 1687-1778 Susanna Truax. Many Americans objected on principle to being taxed by a Parliament which did not represent them. Instead, they wanted to raise taxes themselves to fund their own administration. But successive British governments reserved the right to tax the colonies, & various bungled attempts to impose taxation had hardened American opposition. In the later 1760s, opposition took the form of boycotts of taxed goods. As a replacement for them, the Americans either bought smuggled goods or attempted to find substitutes for tea made from native products. Gawen Hamilton (British Painter, ca.1698-1737) The Sharpe Family Maryland State Archives Colonists in Philadelphia & New York turned the tea ships back to Britain. In Charleston, the cargo was left to rot on the docks. In Boston the Royal Governor was stubborn & held the ships in port, where the colonists would not allow them to unload. Cargoes of tea filled the harbor, & the British ship's crews were stalled in Boston looking for work & often finding trouble. This situation lead to the Boston Tea Party. Ordinarily conservative shippers & shopkeepers were directly impacted by the new law & were vocal in their opposition. Previously, American ships brought much of the tea from England, but that trade was now reserved for the East India Company. The shop owners objected to the new practice of using only selected merchants to sell the tea; many would be excluded from this trade in favor of a new monopoly. The radical patriots found allies in the formerly conservative business community. Ladies of the gentry class in colonial America did not have the opportunity to attend public meetings, debate, vote, or have a real voice in democracy. Some women, such as Mrs. Charles Carroll & Mrs. William Paca of Annapolis, supported the patriotic cause in other ways. During the years of the American Revolution, these women grew a variety of herbs that replaced English teas. These included varieties of mint, chamomile, rosemary, lemon balm, and valerian root. Rather than pay tea taxes, even before the Revolution, colonials were looking for tea alternatives, An article in the November 21st, 1768 Boston Gazette advised, "Tea made from a plant or shrub (Ceanothus americanus) grown in Pearsontown about 20 miles from Portland, Maine, was served to a circle of ladies and gentlemen in Newbury Port, who pronounced it nearly, if not quite, its equal in flavor to genuine Bohea [one of three Chinese black teas tossed overboard later in 1773]. So important a discovery claims attention, especially at this crisis. If we have the plant, nothing is wanted but the process of curing it into tea of our own manufacture." In 1774, Manasseh Cutler wrote of the Liberty Tea called the New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus Americanus) "The leaves of this shrub have been much used by the common people, in some parts of the country, in the room of India tea; and is, perhaps, the best substitute the country affords. They immerse the fresh leaves in a boiling decoction of the leaves and branches of the same shrub, and then dry them with a gentle heat. The tea, when the leaves are cured in this way, has an agreeable taste, and leaves a roughness on the tongue somewhat resembling that of the bohea tea." Finally at the end of the resulting war with America, in 1784, William Pitt the Younger introduced the Commutation Act, which dropped the tax on tea from 119% to 12.5%, effectively ending smuggling. And tea did return to the New Republic of the United States of America.

You use a nail file right? My personal favorite is the kiss lips, animal prints, shoes, or the latest fashion patterns. I can not imagine life without my nail file and pretty sure I don…

Gentle readers: Today I present to you this chapter about The Dress Maker in its entirety from a book in the public domain, Book of English Trades, and library of the useful arts, published in 1818…

Spence Broughton was a highwayman executed for robbing the Sheffield and Rotherham mail in 1792. His body was gibbeted on Attercliffe Common and, notoriously, it hung there for 36 years. Thousands flocked to see this gory spectacle and it has remained somewhat of a local legend. Only four contemporary publications...