Looking at the stitches of Schwalm whitework embroideries, I discovered a new (to me) stitch. It is yet again another example of Schwalm embroiderers’ ingenuity. I immediately set out to try it; in this article, I will share the results of my efforts with you. The stitch is worked on a Limet grid – cut 1, leave 3. Similar to the Rose stitch, it is a stitch worked in four steps originating from a center. But this stitch is not worked with Blanket stitches; it is worked with Satin stitches. In addition, it is worked counterclockwise instead of clockwise. I did not find a name for this stitch, so I will call it Easy Eyelet stitch. Instructions for left-handers can be found at the end of this article. Bring the needle up one square from the bottom (center). *Cross over one square down, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Cross over one square to the right, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread. Cross over one square up, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread. Cross over one square to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the next center hole – one square diagonally right up.* Start working the steps (*) again. The first step of this stitch shares the same space as the third step of the previously worked stitch. (The threads will lie closely next to each other in the same space.) The rows are worked from bottom to top. Each hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a stitch. Tighten the thread so that a distinct hole is made. Nice open center holes are established. One row of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create beautiful striped patterns. If you want to work a second row, turn the piece 180° and work a second row beside the first. When working side-by-side rows of this stitch, the working thread will naturally share spaces occupied by previously worked stitches. In these cases, the stitches will lie closely next to each other in the same space. Two rows of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create a pattern. But more rows should not be used. Working row beside row to fill an entire shape establishes the same pattern as Double Crosses – in straight rows/wrong side up (Openwork Pattern Samplers), and this pattern – for filling an entire shape – can be worked much more quickly. But worked from the back side, the Easy Eyelet stitch can establish a nice pattern for small areas. The stitches lying alternately straight and at a slant give a unique effect. Instructions for the left-hander: *Cross over one square down, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Cross over one square to the left, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread. Cross over one square up, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread. Cross over one square to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the next center hole – one square diagonally left up.* Start working the steps (*) again. The first step of this stitch shares the same space as the third step of the previously worked stitch. (The stitches will lie closely next to each other in the same space.) The rows are worked from bottom to top. Each hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a stitch. Tighten thread. One row of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create beautiful striped patterns. If you want to work a second row, turn the piece 180° and work a second row beside the first.
Kloster blocks are the foundation of hardanger embroidery. This tutorial shows clearly how to do them as part of a small beginner project.
Peaholes at corners will look perfect only if full Peaholes are worked on both sides of the corner, and not as shown in the example below. A Peahole is made by bundling vertical fabric threads using two rows of Four-Sided stitches and then drawing together two of those bundles. So one Peahole needs two bundles, and that means a Peahole hem must have an even number of Four-Sided stitches. For short hems counting out the number of Four-Sided stitches is no problem, but it is cumbersome to count out longer hems. So, a small trick can help Four-Sided stitches are worked from left to right, bundling usually four vertical fabric threads each stitch. Work the two rows of Four-Sided stitches as established and stop short before reaching the corner. Let the working threads remain there. Peaholes are worked from right to left. So, turn the piece now 180°. This enables a start at the prepared corner to work Peaholes. Reaching the opposite side, it is no problem to adjust the remaining Four-Sided stitches to the needed number by working some of them over only three threads – if more bundles are needed – or by working some of them over five threads – if less bundles are needed. A perfect hem arrangement is the result!
At the end of Part 2 I left you with the prepared pattern ready to work on. To get started, we need some working material: From left to right, we have: Anchor Mercer Crochet Cordonnet 20, I’l…
Seam 6: Herringbone stitch, Straight stitch, Lazy daisy stitch, French knot This is a beautiful design made from several easy stitches. The design is created one stitch type at a time. First the herringbone stitch is laid down. This is like a wide cross stitch and very easy. Next, straight stitches are added at the tops and bottoms of the herringbone stitches. Then the little straight stitch fans are made. Lazy daisy stitches and then french knots complete the design. It looks much more complicated than it is! The herringbone stitch is so easy. Just bring the needle to the front of the fabric at the bottom of the first stitch. Make a long straight stitch, then come back up to make the next long stitch. Continue to the end of the seam. Add the little straight stitch caps at the top and bottom of the stitches. Stitch up the little fans just as in seam 2. This is the seam so far. Next, add lazy daisy stitches at the ends of all the caps. Cover all the little dots with french knots and the seam is finished. Congratulations! You have learned how to cover crazy quilt block seams with a variety of simple traditional stitches. Remember to come back for your graduation surprise in Lesson Five.
Часто вироби (серветки, рушники, панно тощо) закінчують бахромою або, як ще кажуть, торочками. Торочки - суцільний ряд кінців ниток, що...
Маю велику честь віддячити моєму Вчителю за все, що він для мене зробив — вишити йому шляхетну осучаснену сорочку з використарнням білих технік Покуття. З Божою допомогою та під заступництвом…
Buongiorno a tutte, oggi pubblico un piccolo tutorial su come preparare una rete per il punto antico. Sto utilizzando sempre il lino a 11 fili che ho usato nel precedente tutorial, stesso filo (n. 8 e n.12). Preparo un quadrato di 15 punti quadro per lato con il filo n.8, poi, partendo da un angolo, conto sei trame in larghezza e in altezza e posiziono uno spillo (questo per comodità di foto e utile per le principianti e per chi fa fatica a vedere da vicino, come la sottoscritta), da questo punto conto 8 trame in diagonale e posiziono un altro spillo. con una forbicina da ricamo taglio in diagonale dal primo al secondo spillo. ora ripeto la stessa cosa sui quattro lati del quadrato. sfilo i fili tagliati in modo da ottenere un buco (come già visto nel precedente tutorial) e, con il dito, delicatamente, posiziono questi fili premendoli sul retro del lavoro otterrò quattro buchi ora, delicatamente, tolgo i fili, come vedete in foto. ottengo questo conto quanti sono i fili sfilati (dovreste averne 24 se avete usato un lino da 11 fili in un cm, ovviamente sarà piu’ o meno questa quantità se avrete usato lini a tramatura diversa) . Nel mio caso, quindi, sono 24, divido questo per tre, quindi 3 mazzetti da otto fili per lato. taglio gli otto centrali, nel mezzo, perché’ poi i fili andranno rigirati sul retro (quelli vicini al margine) ripetete la stessa cosa sui tre lati del quadrato questo il risultato finale. Iniziate dal centro, con il filo n. 12, delimitando a punto cordoncino i 4 lati e poi, aiutandovi con lo schema di progressione che troverete più avanti procedete nel completare il quadrato.Le barrette vanno lavorate prendendo 2 fili e 2 fili degli otto lasciati, come si vede chiaramente in foto. In questa progressione lavori vi ho indicato, con i vari colori delle frecce, come va completato il lavoro nelle sue fasi. la freccia verde indica la partenza, l’azzurra il punto cordoncino, la rossa il punto rammendo, la gialla sempre il punto rammento ma a metà vi fermate per fare il punto spirito all'interno del quadrato interno che nel frattempo si sarà formato dalla vostra lavorazione. questo il lavoro completato. con punteruolo di plastica allargate il centro del quadrato di tessuto interno da questo foro partite, fermando il filo in una delle barrette a punto cordoncino , per formare il fiore a punto festone, usate il filo n. 8. fate dei piccoli petali a punto vapore (otto giri di filo) sui lati del quadrato. Io li ho fatti doppi, due piccole foglioline. Esiste una seconda variante per finire questo quadrato, e cioè levando i fili centrali come illustrato in foto, in modo da ottenere un quadrato centrale. seguire lo schema di ricamo sotto riportato, vale la legenda riportata sopra. fare dei piccoli fiori negli spazi di raccordo tra un quadrato e l'altro a punto festone. retro questa è un'altra possibile variante, ma a questo punto dovreste farcela a riprodurla da sole. Al prossimo tutorial, spero a presto! Anna Maria
Way back in January when I wrote my quilting and embroidery lists for 2016, I said I wanted to do something in the way of traditional embroidery this year. When the syllabus for Nancy's Stitch Studio came out in January, I spied this gorgeous little piece of Sardinian knotted embroidery. class sample - stitched by Barbara Kerry The pattern comes from a book by the very talented Yvette Stanton from Australia. She has a website here where you can see more of her work and her books. She also has a blog you can follow here. Although I like traditional embroidery stitches, I also like varying my linen and threads. My piece is stitched on 30 count linen with DMC Perle 12 number 316. The recommended linen is 28 count, but I loved this mauve piece and it was only available in 30 count. I'm learning from Barbara Kerry and she makes it all seem so easy. In the first lesson we made the lacy edging which is just beautiful. In the second lesson we started the zig zag border. Counting is very important with this type of work. If you miss one thread the whole pattern is out and the zig zag won't meet up. I've done my fair share of unpicking with this piece. The knots all sit on the surface - you don't see anything on the back. I couldn't resist trying a few knots once I got the zig zag correct. So over the two weeks since our last lesson my piece has grown. It's really quite addictive. The top photos show the correct colour of my linen. It appears different in photos taken in different lights. We have one final lesson this Saturday and we're going to learn how to do the lacy edging. There's more to do on this piece yet, but I might actually finish something within a month of the classes finishing. Amazing. I've really enjoyed learning a new skill. An update. I did finish this piece, but I think I forgot to blog about it, so here's a photo of the finished piece. It was fun to learn something new, but this style of stitching is very unforgiving. If you're design doesn't meet up when you complete the motif it's very noticeable and you have to unpick and correct your mistake. But I'm happy to say I can now do Sardinian Knotted Embroidery.
Visillo fácil de hacer
category: Limet-Filling pattern linen used: 13.5/cm thread count threads used: coton à broder No. 20 stitches used: Easy Eyelet stitches and Satin stitches longitudinal axis: group of three threads one pattern segment = 20 threads First, establish a Limet grid with a group of three threads as the longitudinal axis by cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally. Work two rows of Easy Eyelet stitches along the longitudinal axis – one on each side of the three-thread group. Work two rows of Satin stitches next to one side of the Easy Eyelet rows. Always alternate working two rows of Easy Eyelet stitches and two rows of Satin stitches until one half of the shape is filled. Working from the already embroidered section, fill the remaining section. Another straight striped pattern is established.
SALVE RAGAZZE Come state .......... continuiamo con la sfilatura iniziata la settimana scorsa Inizio con farvi vedere come fare ...
Стр. 19, 20 | Мережка - полное описание техники с образцами ~ часть 1
SALVE RAGAZZE Alcune di voi dopo che ho postato su FB questa sfilatura à avuto qualche problema a riprodurla ò fatto un nuovo campione sperando di risolvere qualche dubbio Si prepara una sfilatura alta circa 1,5 cm si prepara dei mazzetti senza fare l'orlo a giorno solo cordonando si usa filo da ricamo n 30 e si prendono 3 fili si avvolge x 3 volte poi si aggiungono altri 3 fili e si avvolge due giri poi si torna in alto 3 avvolgimenti si aggiungono 3 fili 2 avvolgimenti poi si torna giù si lavora nello stesso modo sia sopra che sotto si passa poi alla legatura centrale si lavora con filo da ricamo n 25 si passa prima sotto come nella foto poi un secondo giro per chiudere a questo punto girare intorno passando una volta sopra una volta sotto ai vari lanci x 2 volte finito il secondo giro passare l'ago da sotto in su tra i fili e si passa al secondo elemento FINITA SPERANDO DI ESSERE STATA CHIARA BUON FERRAGOSTO CIAO SILVANA
(If you came to this blog post via pinterest, please take a look here too.) In previous articles I showed how to work a folded Peahole edging and how to work the corner of the folded Peahole edging. Now I present a wide hem with a mitered corner and a folded Peahole edging. Linen with a 13.5/cm thread count is cut to measure 26 cm X 26 cm. The center is marked. From the center point, count 40 horizontal and 40 vertical threads, and cut the forty-first thread; withdraw the threads to their intersection point. The section of the withdrawn thread measures 3 cm. The opposite thread end is now withdrawn about 3.5 cm. Outward from the withdrawn-thread line, leave 4 threads, and cut the fifth thread where it aligns with the center; withdraw it about 3.5 cm to both sides. Starting at the left at the vertical withdrawn-thread line, work Four-Sided stitches over 4 threads between the two horizontal withdrawn-thread lines. Work 20 stitches in all and stop. Cut the vertical thread to the right of the center mark (again, the forty-first thread) and withdraw it about 3.5 cm in both directions. Leave 4 threads to the right, and withdraw the fifth. Turn the work 90° counterclockwise, and continue working Four-Sided stitches around the corner. After working 21 (counting the Four-Sided stitch at the corner) Four-Sided stitches, withdraw perpendicular threads in the established way. Also withdraw the cut thread of the first withdrawnthread line about 3.5 cm and the fifth thread outward from this line. Work Four-Sided stitches around the entire square. Leave 6 threads outward each side, and cut the seventh in the middle of the side. Leave 4 threads outward, and cut the fifth in the middle. Withdraw the thread ends of the outermost cut threads to their respective intersection points. Now withdraw all the cut threads on the inside up to these lines. The thread ends remain there. They will disappear in the hem later. Around the square work 20 Four-Sided stitches between the outside withdrawn-thread lines on each side; these stitches must match the inner Four-Sided stitches. The corner sections remain free. Cut and withdraw the remaining 6 threads. Baste the thread ends in place and work Peaholes. Now prepare the section for the wide hem. Therefore, a number of threads divisible by 8 plus 2 are needed. In this example I chose 34. So, out from the outer withdrawn-thread line count 34 threads, and cut the thirty-fifth thread. From now on all threads can be withdrawn up to the edge of the linen. Please note, if you will work a wide hem as I show here, this counted section is the front of the hem. You must have enough remaining fabric for working the Peaholes, the back side of the hem, and a fold. Please keep this in mind so that you do not have too little fabric in the end. Leave 4 threads outward and withdraw the fifth. Work Four-Sided stitches around the entire square. Withdrawn more threads: leave 8 cut 1 leave 4 cut 1 leave 34 cut 1 Work the Peaholes for the folded Peahole edging and trim the fabric for the hem fold to about 1 cm. Mark the sewing line for the mitered corner. The line should run diagonally through the outside Four-Sided stitches. Fold the piece exactly – right sides together. Sew by hand or by machine. Trim the seam allowance to about 1 cm. Turn the hem corner. For more information about hemming please look to my book Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework. Fasten the hem, work the corners of the inside Peahole hem. Continue working the folded Peahole edging. Wash, starch and iron the piece. Leave it as it is – a nice little doily. Or use it for making a beautiful lavender sachet. If you were to add a loop for hanging and a tassel, it is also well-suited for a lovely ornament for trimming the tree. If you would like to work a larger project, square or rectangle in any size, counting fabric threads from the center of the piece is nearly impossible. And the order of working is somewhat different from the order presented in this blog post. So, I made a leaflet for downloading; it explains in great detail how to withdraw fabric threads, how to work wrapped Peaholes for both the hem and the folded edging, how to make a mitered corner in the hem, and finishing. On 17 pages, illustrated with 70 pictures, you will find all the needed step-by-step instructions for working a wide hem with a folded Peahole edging. A Wide Hem with a Folded Peahole Edging described in great detail and illustrated with step-by-step instructions 17 pages 7,8 MB file size Text: English 15,00 € (12,61 € + 19 % value added tax) download here
Explore lavori-in-corso's 1953 photos on Flickr!
Salve ragazze, eccoci di nuovo con le sfilature. Oggi vi propongo due esempi di sfilature infilate , molto molto semplici . Iniziamo a preparare le sfilature sempre a circa 23 fili dall'ultima sfilatura , T 1 L4 T 16 L 4 T 1 per la seconda sfilatura sempre a 23 fili distante dalla sfilatura precedente togliere 18 fili come noterete una sfilatura è con il punto quadro ed una con l'orlo a giorno, i mazzetti sono di 4 fili. I fili per lavorare sono sempre sia per l'orlo a giorno che per il punto quadro filo da ricamo n 25 , mentre il filo infilato è perlè n 8 Credo di non aver parlato di aghi, io per il momento ho sempre lavorato con un ago senza punta medio. alcune foto per vedere come procedere. Nella prima sfilatura con il punto quadro, potete fare l'infilata più semplice, qualla su due barretta, Come vedete ho messo la foto in verticale , che è la posizione di come si lavora. Si prende la seconda barretta e si accavalla sulla prima, a fine lavoro il filo deve scorrere . Nella sfilatura con le barrette ad orlo a giorno facciamo una infilata su quattro barrette Procedere come da foto in tre movimenti. Anche in questo caso a lavoro finito il filo deve scorrere . Questa sfilatura se viene usata per dei percorsi lunghi ( tende) il filo infilato non deve avere delle giunte. Come vedete nell'infilata su due barrette è rimasta una barretta sola ,in seguito vi dirò come evitare quasti inconvenienti. Queste luci io le ho utilizzate molto per tende , ho anche fatto oltre 100 piccoli centri utilizzate come bomboniere. Sotto una finitura di una tenda. BUON LAVORO CIAO SILVANA
Adding two more stitches to my sampler - come stitch along! Blogged.
Moi Goście mili, obiecałam pokazać poszczególne fazy powstawania woreczka z mereżkami, więc obietnicę spełniam :) Na wstępie wyjaśniam, że praca odbywała się o różnych porach dnia, toteż fotki powstawały zarówno przy świetle dziennym, jak i sztucznym. Stąd różnice w kolorystyce. Tak wygląda woreczek. A poniżej będą zdjęcia i szczegółowe objaśnienia dotyczące wykonania - krok po kroku. No więc było to tak: 1. Najpierw na kawałku materiału Murana 32ct wymierzyłam kwadrat wielkości 30 cm. W centralnej części tego kawałka tkaniny wyznaczyłam fastrygą kwadrat o boku 21 cm oraz pionową linię pomocniczą dzielącą kwadrat na połowę. Ta pionowa linia pomogła mi w liczeniu nitek okienek, w których powstaną mereżki. Fastrygę koniecznie trzeba wykonać równiutko, wzdłuż nitki tkaniny: 2. Wokół tej fastrygi odliczyłam 22 nitki w kierunku wszystkich brzegów materiału i wyciągnęłam nitkę 23-ą, wyznaczając w ten sposób linię cięcia tkaniny: 3. Zabezpieczyłam brzegi tkaniny przed strzępieniem na dwa sposoby. Przy brzegach, które będą wykończone obrąbkiem - "na okrętkę": Zaś przy brzegach, które będą ze sobą zszyte maszynowo - ściegiem zadziergiwanym - nitka w nitkę. Oczywiście można to zrobić na maszynie ściegiem do zabezpieczania brzegów, ale ja takiego "luksusu" :D nie posiadam, więc pozostają mi własne łapki. Ale co tam - myślę, więc jestem; lubię, więc robię. Oto strona prawa tak zabezpieczonego brzegu: i brzeg po lewej stronie: 4. Teraz wzdłuż wyciągniętej nitki przy zabezpieczonych brzegach odcięłam nadmiar tkaniny: 5. W odległości 3 cm od dolnej linii fastrygi wyznaczyłam okienko o wymiarach 93 x 20 nici tkaniny (w nim powstanie dolna mereżka) i zabezpieczyłam krótsze brzegi okienka ściegiem zadziergiwanym wykonanym potrójną nicią muliny DMC w kolorze nr 832: 6. Delikatnie przecięłam tkaninę przy ściegu i wyciągnęłam poziome nitki, tworząc pierwsze okienko: 7. Odliczyłam 24 nici tkaniny w górę i wykonałam w taki sam sposób okienko środkowe o wymiarach 93 x 22 nici tkaniny, następnie od okienka środkowego odliczyłam w górę 18 nici tkaniny i utworzyłam trzecie okienko o wymiarach 87 x 22 nici tkaniny. Na tym etapie praca wyglądała tak: 8. We wszystkich okienkach kordonkiem nr 8 DMC perle podzieliłam mereżką antyczną nici tkaniny w grupy po 3 nici każda: 9. W dolnym okienku wykonałam słupki przeplatane przez pięć grup nici każda, tworząc pierwszą mereżkę: 10. W środkowym okienku wykonałam szerokie bloki przeplatane na 9-ciu grupach nici każdy, oddzielając je od krawędzi okienka i od siebie nawzajem pojedynczymi słupkami owijanymi: 11. Górne okienko to słupki przeplatane przez dwie grupy nici (jeden przez jedną grupę): 12. Pomiędzy okienkami wykonałam haft. Płatki kwiatów to haft węzełkowy podłużny poczwórną nicią okręconą 12 razy na igle. Środki kwiatów to węzełki okrągłe zrobione potrójną nicią muliny. W dolnym pasie między kwiatami rozmieściłam ściegi zadziergiwane koliste wykonane potrójną nicią muliny. Użyłam kolorów DMC: 372, 783, 832, 3012, 3041. Brzegi okienek ozdobiłam ściegiem łańcuszkowym i węzełkami okrągłymi. Wzoru nie przenosiłam na tkaninę żadnym ołówkiem czy mazakiem. Po prostu rozmieszczałam patrząc na ilustrację książki (pisałam o niej w poprzednim poście): 13. Żeby wykonać obrąbki, z dwóch stron robótki wyciągnęłam 11-tą nić licząc od fastrygi w kierunku hafu: 14. Fastrygi spełniły już swoją rolę i na tym etapie można je wyciągnąć: 15. A teraz obrąbek - UWAGA (Chaga, zamknij, proszę, na chwilkę oczy), tylko Ci o mocnych nerwach mogą zobaczyć teraz lewą stronę haftu z kompromitującym mnie wielkim... WĘZŁEM! - Zaprasowałam podwinięcie i jeszcze dodatkowo zabezpieczyłam je fastrygą: 16. Podszyłam obrąbki mereżką antyczną kordonkiem nr8: Po wykonaniu obrąbków robótka wygląda teraz tak: 17. Przypięłam szpilkami podszewkę do właściwej tkaniny, następnie przyfastrygowałam i obcięłam podszewkę tak, by z każdej strony była o dwa centymetry dłuższa od tkaniny wierzchniej. Usunęłam fastrygę i odłożyłam podszewkę na bok. Tkaninę złożyłam na pół, tworząc prostokąt z krótszym bokiem u podstawy tak, by prawa strona tkaniny znalazła się wewnątrz. Przypięłam szpilkami krawędzie, przyfastrygowałam, a następnie zszyłam maszynowo. Zaprasowałam przeszycie. Przewróciłam robótkę na prawą stronę. Zaznaczyłam dookoła miejsca, w których miało powstać 8 szlufek do przewleczenia wstążki. Wykonałam je słupkami na bazie 4 "położonych" równolegle tuż obok siebie, nieco szerszych niż wstążka, prostych ściegów zrobionych kordonkiem: 18. Ręcznie przyszyłam podszewkę do obrąbków: 19. Wywinęłam robótkę na prawą stronę i zszyłam woreczek kordonkiem po prawej stronie u podstawy, drobniutkim ściegiem "na okrętkę". Teraz zostało tylko przewlec przez szlufki dookoła woreczka dwie wstążki i związać ich końce na supły: Dziękuję za wszystkie przemiłe komentarze. Moja próżność bardzo je lubi :) Mam nadzieję, że wytrwałyście do końca wpisu bez uczucia okrutnego znużenia, no i że w miarę wyraziście opowiedziałam o kolejnych etapach powstawania woreczka. Na ewentualne pytania zawsze chętnie odpowiem i doprecyzuję wszelkie niejasności :))) Miłego weekendu :)
Die gefaltete Erbslochkante habe ich schon an vielen verschiedenen Stickereien gesehen. Da ich sie reizvoll fand, versuchte ich sie nachzuarbeiten Mit dem ersten Ergebnis war ich sehr unzufrieden. Nach mehreren Versuchen gelang mir ein besseres Ergebnis, und dies ist, was ich herausfand: Die Löcher des Hohlsaumes müssen größer sein – Bohnen (anstatt Erbsen) sollten zwischen die beiden Reihen von Kästchenstichen passen. Das Zusammenbinden der beiden Bündel sollte nicht mit einer Schlinge oder einem Knoten geschehen, weil dies das Erscheinungsbild beeinträchtigen würde. Außerdem ist ein Knoten hier nicht nötig, denn die Bündel bekommen später zusätzlichen Halt durch nochmaliges Umwickeln. Der Fadenauszug gestaltet sich folgendermaßen: 1 Faden ausziehen 4 Fäden stehen lassen 1 Faden ausziehen 8 Fäden stehen lassen 1 Faden ausziehen 4 Fäden stehen lassen 1 Faden ausziehen Von der Rückseite der Arbeit aus werden Kästchenstiche in gewohnter Weise gestickt. Dann werden gewickelte Erbslöcher gearbeitet. Das erste Bündel eines Erbsloches wird 8 mal von unten nach oben umwickelt. Es ist darauf zu achten, dass die Wicklungen parallel liegen und sich nicht überkreuzen. Das zweite Bündel des Erbsloches wird 3 mal von oben zur Mitte umwickelt. Beide Bündel werden in der Mitte durch 2 Umwicklungen verbunden. Nach der zweiten Wicklung wird der Faden sehr fest angezogen. Je dichter die Bündel zusammen liegen, desto spitzer erscheint das gefaltete Erbsloch später. Das zweite Bündel wird dann noch dreimal nach unten hin umwickelt. Nach Fertigstellung der Reihe werden die Rückseiten der beiden Kästchenstichreihen übereinander gelegt. Kleine Dreiecke erscheinen am Rand. Von der rechten Seite der Arbeit aus und von rechts nach links arbeitend, sticht man in einem Loch zwischen zwei Kästchenstichen aus, das zwischen zwei Dreiecken liegt. Man führt die Nadel gerade nach oben und umwickelt die rechte Seite des Dreiecks einmal, indem man die Nadel von hinten nach vorn durch die Mitte des Dreiecks führt. Um das Einstechen in die Mitte zu vereinfachen, kann man den Erbslochhohlsaum ein wenig auseinander falten. Man umwickelt die rechte Seite des Dreiecks so oft wie nötig, um oberes und unteres Bündel zu vereinen (2 – 3 mal). Man führt den Arbeitsfaden um den Fuß des Bündels nach hinten und kommt mit der Nadel zwischen den Kästchenstichen unterhalb der Mitte des Dreiecks wieder heraus. Man führt die Nadel gerade nach oben, sticht von vorn nach hinten durch die Mitte des Dreiecks und umwickelt die linke Seite des Dreiecks so oft wie nötig, um oberes und unteres Bündel zu vereinen (2 – 3 mal). Man führt den Arbeitsfaden um den Fuß des Bündels nach hinten und kommt mit der Nadel im nächsten Loch zwischen den Kästchenstichen wieder heraus. Man setzt die Arbeit in dieser Weise fort. Falls nötig, kann man die Dreiecke mit Hilfe der Nadel noch etwas in die Länge ziehen. Die Rückseite sieht so aus: Ein hübsche, kleine Kantenverzierung ist entstanden. Hier wurde sie auf 13,5fädigen Leinen mit Vierfachstickgarn Nr. 30 gearbeitet.
Blog sobre Lino, fibra vegetal sostenible , vainicas ,bordados y Patchwork Journal of a diary linen artisan
Pro šití mřížky je nejvhodnější tkanina se stejným počtem nití na jednu délkovou jednotku ve vodorovném i svislém směru - pak při vyta...
