Muzeum - Nadwiślański Park Etnograficzny w Wygiełzowie i Zamek Lipowiec zostało utworzone z dniem 01.01.2007r., na bazie Skansenu i Zamku Li...
Jeden z najpiękniejszych skansenów w Polsce znajduje się w Tokarni, małej miejscowości pod Kielcami. Jeśli tam będziecie to koniecznie musicie zwiedzić.
What’s a better inlook inside the past world than the art? Today I want to take you back to the 19th-century Polish countryside (mostly the 2nd half of that century) and therefore I prepared …
Hello all, This is the second part of my article on the Lachy. The first part covered the Lachy costume in genera and the Podegrodzie men's costume. https://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2019/02/folk-costume-of-lachy-part-1-overview.html?fbclid=IwAR1zWbzVXOW7A--0TVwhh-mM13nm-_g8njKRLZC4LhcniiNvOOryS2nXNBI Today I will cover the womens' costume of the Podegrodzie district of the Sącz region. This is often called the Sącz costume. Chemise. A long linen chemise was the original foundation garment. For everyday, it was plain, but was embroidered for festive occasion. The cut was very similar to that used for the mens shirts, with a shoulder inset. There is a wide round collar, and sometimes fold back cuffs. Embroidery was either in red or white, concentrated on the collar, cuffs, shoulder inset and the front. Sometimes they embroidered both sides of the opening, and at other times a plastron which was attached to one side, similarly to the men's shirts. At some point the chemise was cut in two and the bottom half became a separate garment. I personally find it practical to use the long chemise. Here are some examples of shirts which are commercially available at http://etnoszafa.pl/regiony/lachy-sadeckie/ Over the chemise were worn one or more petticoats, depending on the occasion and the weather. Petticoats were slightly longer than the skirts and usually had a toothed edge with broderie anglaise worked around the border. This would show under the skirt and give a rich effect. The skirts themselves were originally linen. Around the turn of the century hand printed linen cloth of two or three colors was widely traded from Slovakia. Some were resist printed indigo and white, and others had red or yellow in them. These skirts were originally ankle length. Some festive 'paradna' skirts were made of white linen with openwork embroidery covering up to three quarters of the skirt [up from the hem]. These were called 'fartuch'. Similar skirts were worn in parts of the Krakow region and also by the western Lemkos. Skirts were very full, 6 or 7 meters being common for dress. They were of many colors when of bought factory cloth. They were gathered into a narrow waistband and secured with cords attached to the ends. A facing was sewn to the inside of the hem to strengthen it and to make it swish more. Often a solid colored skirt had ribbons or lace sewn above the hem. Lighter cloth with relatively subtle prints was also used for skirts. These often had toothed edging and floral designs formed of soutache; oak leaves are very common. These are called rozowiaki, perhaps because they are often some shade of pink. Aprons were likewise of many colors and types of cloth from white openwork linen to light cotton prints with soutache designs to heavier darker cloth, which was also sometimes embroidered. Unlike in most parts of Poland, here the apron was sometimes omitted. Young ladies, but not little girls, would wear the gorset. This garment could be worn by young women starting at 13-14, and would continue to be worn by young wives for a time. The cut is that typical for Malopolska, with a low round neckline and lappets at the waist. It was made of a dark color, usually black, but sometimes burgundy or dark blue or green, and linen with linen. It was usually closed with hooks and eyes, less commonly it was laced. The ornament was done in embroidery, soutache, beads and sequins. The most common motif was a group of flowers emanating from one point, which might be heart shaped. In this region the central stem was usually a zigzag, either sharp or more soft. As we can see in this image above, for colder weather and older married women, the garment of choice was a short jacket called katanka. It was closed with buttons, came to just below the waist and was made from many kinds of heavier cloth and was lined. It had no collar. Fancier katanki worn for going out were called wizytki. These were often embroidered down the front, around the bottom edge and the cuffs, often with beadwork in floral designs. This last example shows a katanka made for the winter, with sheepskin edging and wadding between the layers. This was usually closed with buttons and loops, and often had a sunrise design on the sleeves above the cuffs, and metallic ornament next to the sheepskin. This type of katana was often made somewhat longer and with an extremely full peplum which fell on the hips in many folds. It also had a patch pocket which was also ornamented. Notice that it still has no collar. The grandest garment which a well off married woman would wear was called kaftan. It somewhat resembled the katana, but was also much influenced by the waffenrok worn by the men. The older examples are dark green, but today they are often black. They also had a peplum with many folds, patches on the cuffs, and a shoulder cape. this garment was usually made of wool with a cotton lining, but was not wadded. Many of the details mirror the waffenrok. There are metal buttons and tassels down the front, usually in red, green and yellow. These are repeated on the pocket flaps and cuffs. there is a single row of buttons around the back just above the peplum. The edges are ornamented with passamenterie and embroidery using similar motifs to those found on the mens' jackets. Floral embroidery is also used in the center back and corners as well. Unmarried girls wore their hair uncovered in one or two braids, they would fasten ribbons to them for festive occasions. Kerchiefs were worn for church or colder weather, tied under the chin. See the various images. For festive dress, married women wore the chustka czepcowa, a finely embroidered kerchief about a meter on a side which was wrapped around the head and tied on the forehead in order to cover the hair. Boots were commonly worn, originally, as in the Krakow region, the women also wore karbiaki. But today you will often see the tight lace up boots which have become standard over most of Poland, even though they are not really native to this region. Red beads of coral, fake coral, glass and other materials were commonly worn, usually on shorter strings so that they fall high on the chest. Crosses were often attached to these necklaces. Just a couple more images. Thank you for reading, I hope you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K. email: [email protected] A group from the region of varying ages and wearing many different outfits. They are the first act in some festival, so the video goes on to show Silesians and others. A bit amateurish, but worth watching. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owpbXTshaDg A group from Poligrodzie, costumes similar, but well done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5ozKorcwbI Thank you for reading, I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K. email; [email protected] Source Material: Z Szewczyk and M Brylak-Zaluska, 'Stroj Lachow Sadeckich', Nowy Sacz, 2004 Elzbieta Piskorz-Branekowa, 'Polskie Stroje Ludowe', Warsaw, 2013 Aleksander Blachowski, 'Haft Polskie Szycie', Lublin, 2004 Stanislaw Gadomski, 'Stroj Ludowe w Polsce', Warsaw, Elzbieta Krokikowska, 'The Polish Folk Dress', Warsaw, 2000 Jan Wielek, 'Stroj Lachow Limanowskich', Warsaw, 1988
Muzeum - Nadwiślański Park Etnograficzny w Wygiełzowie i Zamek Lipowiec zostało utworzone z dniem 01.01.2007r., na bazie Skansenu i Zamku Li...
Hello all, I'm dedicating this posting and the following to my friends Karen M. and Ted Zed. Today i will be venturing into the world of Polish Costume. I will be talking about the costume from the region around the town of Krzczonow, marked in red in this map. For the sake of those of you who may be unfamiliar with Polish orthography, Krz is pronounced 'ksh', like a bus door opening, czo is pronounced 'cho' as in chocolate, and ow is pronounced 'oof' like someone punched you in the stomach. So Krzczonow is pronounced 'Ksh-cho-noof', except that you only get one syllable for each vowel, so try to pronounce Kshcho as one syllable. This is often called the Lublin Costume as it is the best known costume from Lublin Province. It is not from the city of Lublin. I have a couple of personal ties to this costume. In college I was a dancer with the Oakland University Slavic Folk Ensemble, and in my time we had a Polish Choreographer teach us a Polish Set. We made these costumes. This costume is a good one for an amateur group, as it is relatively well known, colorful, attractive, and easily made from materials that you can go out and buy, as opposed to say the Zakopane or Lowicz costumes which are beautiful, but require specific sorts of cloth that is not easy for people outside Poland to obtain. Also i have been long fascinated in figuring out how the particular embroidery is done, but that is a topic for the next posting. Here are a couple of images to help you get acquainted with this costume. In this last photo, the woman on the right is wearing the 18th century costume which i will not be covering in this posting. The woman's costume is based on the chemise, although it is not as prominent as it is in many eastern European costumes. The cut is identical to womens shirts in western Ukraine, with two separate body sections for front and back, an 'inset' przyramek in Polish, sewn on top of the body pieces, the opening then gathered into the collar, which in this case is a sort of wide 'sailor collar', and sleeves sewn perpendicularly. Here is the cut of the woman's chemise and other costume pieces. The chemise is embroidered on the cuffs, collar, shoulder pieces, and sometimes around the front opening with particular Kzczonow embroidery, later replaced by cross stitch. The Skirt is sewn of store bought wool, in 'quiet colors', a quick glance at the various images indicates a wide range of colors. There is usually a band of velvet or other dark cloth on the bottom hem, a short 'brush fringe' on the hem itself, it is very full and rather long, coming to the top of the low, typically Polish lace-up boots. In the center of the skirt are sewn several different bands of ribbon of different colors, widths and designs, usually forming a palindromic effect, with a particularly wide and patterned ribbon forming a center, and symmetrically placed ribbons of other colors above and below. There seems to be a minimum of three to five ribbons, although many more are often used. The apron is unique, in that it is basically a short version of the skirt, gathered into a waistband and wrapping completely around the body. It is also sewn with several ribbons, and is usually edges with lace. again, a couple of images to give you a good idea. The bodice is the typical Polish lace up type, known as a gorsetka. The cut is shown on the bottom right of the diagram above that shows the cut of the chemise. It has lappets around the bottom, very typical for Malopolska, and it is decorated with rows of ribbons sewn on vertically to either side of the front, and around the bottom edge just above the lappets. The lappets are edged with ribbon. The gorsetka itself is made of a dark quiet color, like black or burgundy. Here are a couple of examples. Of course, several necklaces would be worn to complet the costume. For unmarried girls, the hair was worn in braids which were wrapped around the back of the head. A headress in the shape of a horseshoe was worn on the back of the head, covered with artificial flowers, and with ribbons falling down behind. At her wedding, this would be replaced by a full cap of artificial flowers, with beads and ribbons around the edge, as seen in the colored photo above. Here is a photo showing the hair arrangement. In cooler weather women would often wear a short jacket, the kaftanik instead. This was also considered to be appropriate for women 'of a certain age'. This custom was widespread in Poland and elsewhere. I am running long, so i will devote a separate posting to the mens and womens kaftan. The Mens costume is based on a shirt which has a cut identical to the womens, except the collar is smaller, and the shirt itself is shorter. It is worn outside the pants. It has embroidery like the womens, but with no or less extensive embroidery on the shoulder. Here is a diagram of the cut. The pants were linen in summer, but for cooler weather or special occasions they were made of black or other dark material. Often there was a vest worn with the costume, either black or white with buttons and pocket patches of the opposite color, as seen in this old photograph. Over this was worn a long heavy overcoat, as seen in some of the images. But what has come to be worn most often is a jacket, called the kaftan as it is the most unique to this costume. The cut is shown above, It was decorated with rows of ribbons down the front and around the waist, with bands of black cloth overstitched and with reverse applique.Again, I will have to take a seperate posting to talk about this. I will close with this photo of a wedding group. Thank you all for reading. If you have any requests for research, or comissons to make costumes or embroidery, please let me know. Thank you, Roman K. Here are a couple of links to sites showing more of this and other Polish costumes. This is the famous Polish Song and Dance Ensemble Mazowsze, perfoming their Lublin Suite, featuring this costume. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ypug6wCC1c Here is a link to the Folk Dance Ensemble 'Slowianki', of the Jagiellonian University in Poland website, showing some very good photos of this costume and others. I would like very much to be able to see them perform, oh well. Click on the images to enlarge http://www.slowianki.uj.edu.pl/galeria.php?send=1&gal=16&id=stala Here is one of their photos, just to give you an idea. OK, i found a video of Slowianki doing dances from this region; they are pretty good. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LDsXsk30BI&feature=related And here is a link to a company in Krakow called Perfekt, who make and sell Polish [and some other] Folk Costumes for stage groups and others. They are quite good for stage costumes, although not the equivalent of having one made in the village, which would be very difficult. .http://www.perfekt.krakow.pl/stroje/lublin Thank you very much again Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: Janusz Swiezy, 'Stroj Krzczonowski' from the series Atlas Polskich Strojow Ludowych, Poznan, 1952 Elzbieta Krolikowska, 'Polski Stroj Ludowe' [The Polish Folk Dress] sic, Warsaw, 2000 Majka and Hunt, 'Polish Folk Costumes', Halifax, 1991 Stanislaw Gadowski, 'Stroj Ludowe w Polsce', Warsaw, no year shown Aleksander Blachowski, 'Hafty Polskie Szycie', Lublin 2004 Kazimierz Pietkiewixcz, 'Haft i Zdobienie Stroju Ludowego', Warsaw, 1955
Lubię odwiedzać skanseny. Potrafią być imponujące i prowadzone z pasją. Skansen w Sanoku poleca się Waszej uwadze przy planowaniu urlopu.
Muzyk ludowy. Urodził się w 1935 r. w Radzicach Małych w powiecie opoczyńskim, zmarł w 2003 r. Od urodzenia był ociemniały, ale w wieku sześciu lat nauczył się gry na harmonii. Laureat Nagrody Kolberga w 1999 r.
In 1932, German photographer Hans Hildenbrand of the American magazine National Geographic visited Poland to capture the color life of its people. Below are some of them. (Image by © Hans Hildenbrand/National Geographic Society/Corbis © Corbis)
At Plac Wolnica during a traditional market (Wielkanocny Festiwal Tradycji i Obrzędu) on Palm Sunday 2007, Krakow, Poland
Muzeum - Nadwiślański Park Etnograficzny w Wygiełzowie i Zamek Lipowiec zostało utworzone z dniem 01.01.2007r., na bazie Skansenu i Zamku Li...
Hello all, Today I will talk about the costume of Szamotuły [Shah-mo-too-wih]. This district lies in the macroregion of Wielkopolska, in west central Poland, north of Silesia and south of Pomerania. Wielkopolska was the heart of the original Polish Kingdom of Mieszko in the 10th cent, with its capitol at Gniezno. It eventually became part of the Prussian Empire. While there were some German colonists in this region, the countryside remained strongly Polish. The folk costume of Szamotuły was retained as a symbol of Polish identity. Here is a map which shows Wielkopolska within the borders of present day Poland, in red. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greater_Poland The major city of Wielkopolska today is Poznań. Szamotuły lies to the northwest of this city. According to historical sources, the costume was once more widespread to the south and east, as shown in the inset below. In my opinion, this would be a good choice for dance groups who make their own costumes. The men's costume in particular is very sharp looking, stages well, and makes a good contrast to the women's pastel attire. The entire outfit can be made from bought materials, in a way that some of the costumes from central Poland cannot, as they rely on very specific woven cloth. The women's base garment, is of course, a chemise. It is full length, and traditionally made of linen, although later it sometimes came to be made of cotton. Here are two possible cuts. The first is an older, more traditional cut. The second cut has been modified under the influence of city fashion. In relatively recent times bloomers were worn under the chemise, this likely came from German influence. The first petticoat, piekielnica, was red, and made of flannel or wool, depending on the time of year.It should reach to 10 cm above the ankle and have 2 cm pleats around the waist. It could have satin stitch floral designs in black, or other ornamentation. Here is an example. For festive occasions, a second petticoat was worn over this. This one was of percale or batiste, and decorated with white embroidery. lace, and tucks. The skirt itself, spódnica, was relatively full, with gathers on the sides and back, and relatively flat on the front. It might have a flounce on the hem. In summer the skirt was made of light material, white or pastel colors, often with a pattern of dots or small flowers. This was considered especially appropriate for unmarried girls, and is the type of skirt most commonly seen on stage today. In cooler weather, and for older women, the skirt could be of many different colors, and was heavier, usually of wool. it could be dark red, dark blue, brown, with vertical stripes, usually red and blue, or even plaid. This first image is actually from Grodzisk Wielkopolski in the neighboring Koscian costume region that has a similar costume. The apron, zapaska, should be a few centimeters shorter than the skirt, and about a meter wide, gathered on the sides, but little in the center. For festive occasions it was made of batiste, or silk. For unmarried girls it was often pale blue, but it might be in green, turquoise, or white. It also might have a small subtle design.The white aprons were worn with the darker skirts, especially by older and married women. The girls' aprons were sometimes simply adorned with tucks. In this example they were skimping on material, and did not make the apron wide enough. The white linen aprons were adorned with embroidery, lace, and sometimes tulle applique, as we see here shown off by a married woman. For less dressy occasions the aprons were of a solid color, most often deep blue for work days, or a color which harmonized with the skirt. White embroidery on a colored background, along the bottom edge and the ends of the apron ties, was known, similar to that done in Kujawy. The bodice, sznurówka, had the same cut whether for everyday or for festive dress. The everday might be closed by lacing it shut, as per the name, but more commonly they were hooked closed. Here is an example of an everyday bodice. The bodice was lined with linen and had a stuffed roll at the bottom, called 'kishka', which was worn under the skirt, and helped hold it in place. The bodice was made in a variety of materials, depending on the occasion. It summer it was most commonly sky blue, blue, rose, aquamarine [celadon], sometimes with a design, but never a floral one. In colder weather it was made in darker colors. The festive bodice was of the same cut but of finer materials, and often had ruched ribbon as an ornament. Over the bodice, and for married women, over the jacket, a separate collar was worn, called gorsik. This consisted of a length of linen 2 cm wide which went around the neck, closed with a button, and a wide length of embroidered linen, lace, or tulle which was heavily gathered into it. Sometimes an intermediate length of cloth enabled the collar to be gathered so tightly. This collar was apparently sewn to the chemise until about 1890. Red coral beads were worn over this, at least by unmarried girls. A cap, czepek, was worn by both girls and married women. These were originally of fine linen and lace, but later came to be made in embroidered tulle. They were edged in goffered lace, and later, tulle. Married women wore a very similar cap. It was, however, larger, and they wrapped a rolled silk kerchief, jedwabnica, around the edge of it. As in Kujawy and other parts of Wielkopolska, the ties and back of this cap were a major focus of embroidery. Married women wore a jacket called rurok. It was waist length, but had a heavily gathered peplum. The front was closed with hooks, but it had decorative buttons and buttonholes down the front. The most traditional piece of outerwear is called pstrucha. It is a piece of home woven wool cloth with stripes, which is sewn like an apron and worn over the shoulders, or carried over the arms. Various kerchiefs were also worn over the head for warmth. For everyday, village girls often went barefoot, or in clogs. For festive dress, they wore short, black lace up boots, szadronowe trzewiki, over commercially knitted stockings, or more recently, black leather shoes. A folded handkerchief was often carried in the hand as an accessory. Men wore a white linen shirt, koszula, with a stand up collar. The everyday shirts were made of thick, strong, linen. Festive shirts were made of finer linen, had fuller sleeves, and white embroidery on the collars and cuffs. Sometimes the shirts were made without collars, and a dickey or shirtfront of exceptionally fine linen was worn over the regular shirt.This had a standing collar of about 4 cm. tall. This closed in front with a button. Three different types of neckwear were known. The first, worn by courting young men, is known as podszyjnik, or fartuszek. These are sewn from black cloth with linen linings, and are colorfully embroidered by girls who give them to boys in whom they are interested, and also to others. The embroidery often features a heart. Most young men had at least two. These were narrower than the collar, which stood up above it. The second option was called welnianka. This was a ribbon of wool or cotton, of a plain dark red color, about 3 cm wide and a meter long. It was tied around the neck with the bow in front. This was worn by married men. The most formal, and perhaps most typical, was the jedwabnica. This is the same type of silk kerchief which married women tied around their caps, and called by the same name. It was rolled up and then wrapped around the collar, which was often folded over and pinned in order to hold it. Then it was tied into a bow in front. At the beginning of the 20th cent., white pants were worn by unmarried men, and black pants by married men. Earlier, leather and gray pants made of heavy industrial cloth were also worn for work. The shirt was always worn tucked into the pants. Sometimes a vest, kamizelka, was worn over the shirt and under the jaka. This was a late development, and has since been abandoned in this area, although it is common further south. Much more commonly, the jaka was worn directly on top of the shirt. The jaka had brass buttons in two rows on the front and was usually worn closed. It was usually red, although it could be dark red/amaranth in color, or green, or 'marynusowe', red with black ribbon designs. The jaka was commonly ornamented with topstitching. Over the jaka was worn a garment called kaftan, which resembles a knee-length overcoat, but has no sleeves. It was black with a red lining, and had 24 brass buttons and red stitched buttonholes, but was almost always worn open. The skirt was very full in back. Married men, besides wearing black pants, wore another coat over the kaftan called katana. It differed from the kaftan only in having sleeves, being longer, and often fuller in the back. The kaftan reached the knees, the katana was at least boot top length, and sometimes ankle length. Unmarried young men wore fancy boots called kropusy, these had many pleats along their length and had scalloped tops. Married men wore simpler boots with only a couple of pleats and which were cut straight across the tops. In winter, men often wore sheepskin coats, called kożuch. A young man who could afford one of these was considered by the girls to be desirable, because that meant that he was well off. Hats. In Szamotuły men wore the rogatywka, or a felt hat, or, in summer a straw hat, or in winter a sheepskin hat. As an accessory, the men of Szamotuły would carry a bentwood cane, called lola, which it was expected that they made for themselves. Sometimes these were elaborately carved. And, as in other parts of Wielkopolska, the men would often carry a whip when dancing. Check out the dance videos below. Thank you for reading, I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K. Just a few more images. Here are a series of images from a wedding in Szamotuły Here are people of Szamotuły taking part in a harvest festival. Some Green Kurpie dancers make an appearance in the second half. The blue and gold flags are those of the city of Szamotuly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7Oi_45SlKY Here is a collection of videos showing actual village dancers from around Wielkopolska. The groups from Szamotuły show up at about the 6:40 mark. This group has one couple in the single people's costume and the other in the married. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLRB-i6MrV8 Here is a video of a stage performance by a small local group. In my opinion, the skirts are too short, compare with the village performers in the first video. At the beginning and end you can see one of the musicians at left is wearing the married women's costume. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heJFFP_8JJc Another small group doing dances from this region. They do a reasonably good job, and you can see the red petticoats flashing, even though they put them over the linen ones, which is not what it says in my sources is correct. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9W4ysVjzFs This last video is of the Polish National Ensemble Masowsze. they do a reasonably good job with the costumes, but they are all alike. Notice the progression in choreography from the first video to the last. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhQZ41UK3ic Roman K. email [email protected] Source material: Iwona Rosinska, 'Suknia Wydaje Ludzkie Obyczaje, Folk Dress from Wielkopolska', Poznan, 2005 Adam Glapa, 'APSL Stroj Szamotulski', Lublin, 1951 Elzbieta Piskorz-Branekowa, 'Polskie Stroje Ludowe, vol 1', Warsaw, 2013 Elzbieta Krolikowa, 'Polski Stroj Ludowy', Warsaw, 2000 Stanislaw Gadomski, 'Stroj Ludowe w Polsce', Warsaw, Aleksander Blachowski et al, 'Haft Ludowy',Torun', 1979 M Ataman et al, 'Rekodzielo Ludowe i Artystyczne Cepelii', Warsaw, 1988
Muzeum - Nadwiślański Park Etnograficzny w Wygiełzowie i Zamek Lipowiec zostało utworzone z dniem 01.01.2007r., na bazie Skansenu i Zamku Li...
Muzeum Wsi Radomskiej znajduje się blisko wjazdu do tego miasta od strony Kielc i jest dobrym miejscem na dłuższy spacer!
MARZEC - CZERWIEC 2010 r.
August 15th – the day of the Assumption of Mary – is commonly celebrated in Poland as a day dedicated to the Divine Mother of Herbs (Matka Boska Zielna). It’s one of the many holi…
