***07/21/13: I updated this post here.*** One of the things I’ve been thinking about lately is downsizing my possessions. I have many things I never use, for instance, a yarn stash and knitting bo…
The tool that enabled people to knit quickly and to knit while standing and walking was the knitting sheath. Knitting sheaths varied in quality, workmanship, shape, and decoration.
Two hundred years ago any serious knitter used a knit sheath. Where did they go, what were they used for, and do I need one? (Of course I do!)
Knitting sheath of carved boxwood, English, 1679
やっと5つ完成です。それぞれに、少しずつちがうものをつくりました。...
The answer to this question is quite simply they were both tools AND love tokens. Numerous antique treen knitting sheaths were used as a functional tool.
An antique knitting sheath was a holder where one end of a needle was placed and then the sheath was tucked into a belt worn around the waist. Some of the knitting sheaths have a diagonal slot in them where apron strings/ribbons could hold them in place. The needle is held in position by the antique knitting sheath and allows one hand to be freed up. A knitting sheath made knitting quicker and enabled people to knit on the move. Antique knitting sheaths were made from many materials wood, metal,
Two hundred years ago any serious knitter used a knit sheath. Where did they go, what were they used for, and do I need one? (Of course I do!)
A knitting sheath is as simple or complex as a hammer. Their essence is the same, they are tools that provide leverage. My tool dealer (Grizzly industrial) offers 157 different kinds of hammers, and that does not include antique hammers such as a cobbler or wheel wright might have. Thus, it is reasonable to think that there might be a large number of different kinds of knitting sheaths - each used for a different kind of knitting. And there are. If we look at the various knitting sheaths drawn by Peter Brears in The Knitting Sheath, published in Folk Life vol 20 1981-82. We see the following kinds of knitting sheaths: Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 I am struck by several factors. One is that he does not distinguish between knitting sheaths used for swaving and those for use with long needles. he does not indicate the size of the needle that fits the sheath. And, he does not distinguish between, professional tools, 'love tokens' intended to be functional, and love tokens intended to be purely decorative or sentimental.With only one exception, Brear does not indicate wear marks (or lack of wear marks). In Fig. 3 Nos. 1 and 8 are clearly utilitarian tools. Nos. 2, 3, 7, 10, and 11 are functional tools with decorative carving that enhances their functionality. While Nos, 4, 5, and 9 have carving that diminish their functionality, and Nos, 6, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16 were likely never intended for any use what so ever. No.6 is heavy. The woods that are soft enough to carve ball-in-cage are to soft to make good knitting sheaths. The ball-in-cage structures in nos. 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16 are not likely to be to survive the stress of knitting with long needles. The ball-in-cage in No. 4 is not required to transmit the full stress of the needles, but only survive handling. It could survive handling in the context of careful knitting for the family, but is not likely to survive sustained professional / commercial use. Thus, some knitting sheaths were made for use, and others were purely for sentimental and decorative purposes. And some were made to show off whittling ability.
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Carved wooden knitting sheath, England, 1842
The leather knitting belt or Makkin that I use to knit socks. The belt has holes in it and I put the needle I am knitting on to in the hole in the belt and it anchors it firmly as I knit. Previously I had been unable to knit socks as I cannot knit freely with my needles wiggling about all over the place.
When you unite the spindle stick and removable whorl, you'll have to ponder where the whorl will fit best. Many spindle sticks have their tapered ends at the bottom. This is where the whorl will slide on. I suggest using a tiny hair rubber band to fix below the whorl to 'encourage' the whorl to stay in place. Whorls with tapered holes should be firmly jammed onto the bottom taper, but can still loosen in spinning mode. When they loosen they act rather like a curved ball, spinning out in a wide circle before they hit the floor, glass, dirt, rug, etc. This makes them hard to locate and explains why many ancient whorls are found in widespread locations. Once the whorl and just-in-case rubber band are in place, the singles 'leader' yarn can be put on. See the pixs below for 3 different setups for the leader attachment Method A & B: Bottom-weighted Spindle, aka drop spindle). Method A. How to Hitch a Singles Leader to a Bottom-Weighted Suspended Spindle (Method A.) Method B. This method is useful for heavy buildup of yarn in cop form. As the spindle gets heavier, you can remove the whorl entirely and wrap the leader below the cop itself. It is best not to half-hitch at the bottom of the whorl to save time. The simple wrap is easier to release each time and can add stability to the yarn wrapping and whorl securing. Method C. Upending a Suspended Spindle to spin in Top-Weighted Mode On many suspended spindles, it is possible to turn the spindle upside down and use TWO Half- Hitches to secure the leader and whorl. This only works is enough space is left at the former top of the spindle to flick or thigh-roll the spindle to make twist. Sometimes the space below the whorl in bottom-weighted position is too sharply tapered to make this upside transformation work. Spindles with removable whorls found here
The Practical Magic of Plant Fibers Like flax, hemp may be best spun with a distaff. Spinning can be so unexpected. I still can't help wondering what…
This is a unique single cross-arm spindle dating back to prehistory that is still in use in the Basque region (txoatile), China and other countries. The whorl/ cross arm is turned to a diabolo shape from locally sourced Wild Cherry, the 1 shaped peg/ spindle is hand carved from Hard Maple. The shape of the spindle means there is no need for hitches or hooks, a couple of wraps round the short spindle and the arm of the 1 holds the yarn in place. Three stock weights available 1oz, 1.25oz & 1.5oz / 28g, 35g & 42g Weights and sizes may vary slightly, depending on the individual tree used, it's growing conditions and the density of the wood etc. Additional whorls available here https://www.etsy.com/listing/1447880211/basque-spindle-whorl-only-basque-spindle If you'd like a larger or smaller whorl please message me. Each one is hand made in the US, and will vary from the photographs shown. To view one in action see Spinning Shadows Fiber Arts review here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JeGa7IifVNE
A knitting group that I belong to teases me about my having more belts than Imelda Marcos has pairs of shoes. Yes, I have a lot of belts. Having the right belt for for your knitting sheath or knitting stick or having the right knitting sheath or stick for your belt is critical. And, just as there is no knitting sheath, that works perfectly on all belts, there is no belt that works perfectly with all knitting sheaths. If you are working with very stiff needles, then the knitting sheath should be able to pivot. Examples include Dutch knitting sticks: and Yorkshire goose wings used with stiff needles. Here apron strings or an elastic waist band or a nylon belt work very well. On the other hand, a Cornish fish used with long gansey needles wants a good leather belt to hold it in place. However, shorter "Cornish fish" made so the needle placed less leverage on the belt work very well with lighter, narrower, (and slipperier) nylon belts. For example, this: worked well with leather belts, but very poorly with the nylon belts. Your knitting sheath and your belt need to work together as a team. My favorite belt for use with knitting sheaths that hold the needles firmly: My favorite belt for Dutch style knitting sticks and Yorkshire goosewings used with rigid needles: I just warp it around my waist and knot it in place. I buy leather belts from LL Bean (and every outlet mall), wear them with my jeans and knitting sheaths get tucked into them or threaded onto them. Knitting sheaths that thread on to belts are a pain to put on and take off, but they do not get lost.
Пожалуй, ни одно орудие крестьянского труда не украшалось так многообразно, любовно, как прялка. Дух захватывает от силы народной фантазии и искусства, когда видишь резные, инкрустированные (даже зеркальцами!) расписные (даже по торцам!), гребневые, теремковые, светлые и темные, детские и взрослые прялки, прялицы, пресницы всех уголков России!Конечно, такой затейливый предмет не только украшал крестьянскую избу, но и согревал душу неутомимой пряхе, в полном смысле скрашивал бесконечный монотонный труд. Прялка была ценным подарком: отец дарил ее дочери, жених - невесте, муж - жене. В некоторых местах, по обычаю, жених должен был изготовить прялку собственноручно, а старую родительскую сломать в знак помолвки.
OK, Option A is out. Fine. I hear you. No easy way out for me. Sigh... I can cope with Option B. I'm a scientist; I can do the math. But last night, after I posted to you, I got out this batt, to see if I could use it for the Norah Gaughan pullover. It's beautiful fiber, isn't it? It might even work with that Spunky Eclectic I spun a while ago, although I'll have to wait till the Spinner's Hill batt is spun up before I can really judge. I decided I would be smart (for once) and knit a swatch from that Corriedale cross fleece I just finished up, just to see what gauge it was so I could judge how to spin the Spinner's Hill batt. Here's the Corriedale yarn knit and washed. I'm in love. True, to-the-core, with all my senses, love. I took it to work today and made my co-workers fondle it. Shall we look closer? It's a perfect Aran-weight yarn - 18 stitches to 4 inches on a size 8 needle (see? I got that size 8 needle for a reason). The fabric is soft, yet substantial. It does not bias, it doesn't show the inherent variability in thickness, it is wonderful, wonderful, wonderful yarn! And I made it! Lots of it! A whole fleece worth! (well, minus the half-pound or so of roving the damned cats felted one day - kneading, drooling, warm-bodied cats are very good felters, it turns out.) So, I'm thinking of Option D - Pebbles, by Elsebeth Lavold. I think this sweater would look great on me. I think I could knit this in one month. I think what I really want to do, as long as this is my hobby, my passion, is cast on or start spinning for all three sweaters, starting tomorrow, November 1, because hey, who says I have to follow rules, anyhow. Which means I need to do a little dyeing tonight. Keep your fingers crossed - I'm aiming to turn that light brown into something dark blue with a hint of purple, and I just don't know what will happen next.
Tablet woven belt for Viking reenactment, inspired by geometric patterns from tablet woven bands unearthed in Birka. Length: choose! Length does not include tassels; it is only the woven part. If you order, e.g., 200 cm with tassels, it means your belt will be 200 cm + ca. 30 cm tassels = 230 cm in total. Width: 3.8 cm / 1.5 inch Colour: You can choose the green-orange version shown in the listing or the "custom colours" option. If you choose the second one, let us know what colours you want in the personalisation section, during checkout. Material: 100% New Zealand wool, dyed and produced in Lithuania Archeological inspiration: brocaded tablet woven bands found in Birka, Sweden, dated to the 9-10th centuries. The item is suitable for historical reenactment of Germanic (Scandinavian, Anglo-Saxon), Rus and Slavic peoples. Wash it with care, dry flat. What is this craft? Tablet (card) weaving is an ancient craft of making strong, narrow, decorative bands. In the past men and women wore tablet woven bands as belts, leg wraps, hair bands or garment trims. Today tablet woven bands are used in historical reenactment (from Celtic to late medieval Europe), SCA, LARP, folk costumes and all kinds of pagan, fantasy or Viking societies. They can also serve as handfasting cords, guitar straps, bag straps, bookmarks and many more. Custom orders Drop me a line if you would like to order a custom band. Our weavers will be happy to discuss your idea for colours, patterns, materials etc. Worldwide shipping with tracking number. Instagram: @_lostthread_ Visit me to see how tablet woven belts are made!
The Russian spindle is a support spindle, singles are spun similarly to the techniques used with a tahkli spindle. The traditional fiber is Orenburg goat down, though in the US, they are typically used for Cashmere, Yak, Bison, and similar short stapled, fine fibers. The cop of handspun is built up on the lower end of the long part of the bulb. The picture above shows traditional plain Russian spindles, the one with fiber is very full! I find it easiest to spin this wooden support spindle in a ceramic dish for minimum friction. Plying is where the fun of Russian spindles come in, as to ply, you first take a full spindle of singles and silk thread (traditionally, though you can use what you want!) and wind it onto another Russian spindle. Yes, wind two strands together, maintaining even tension, without plying, onto the spindle! (this photos shows artsy-yet-functional Russian spindles, by Tom Forrester) Then, you spin counter-clockwise and lift the end off the spindle as twist enters the yarn that is being released from the spindle. Cool, no? You take that new length of plied yarn and wrap it around a "Russian plying disc", which is simply a 2-inch diameter circle of lightweight cardboard (think cereal box or the cardboard that is inside flat-packed panty hose). Then, holding the disc, you repeat this process for a new length, wind it on, and continue. The yarn is set by steaming it on the disk, or simply mist it and leave it to dry if your environment supports that. The spindlitis list on YahooGroups has been having a Russian Spindle challenge, uploading to YouTube some lovely videos, especially Faina's, on Russian spindling. And then I found this variant, of Tibetan spindling: How cool is that! As far as instruction goes, Connie Delaney has a pamphlet on Russian Spindling, Ghalena Kaleva's book Gossamer Webs has a segment on Russian Spindling, and the Spin-Off Handspindle Treasury has a piece on these spindles as well. The video Spindles Around the World by Barbara Clorite-Ventura shows these spindles in action. Tom Forrester's Russian Spindles are available at The Bellwether, as are ceramic bowls.
If you’re feeling cold in winter, the solution may be a garment that is called Haramaki (腹巻, literally “belly wrap” or “bellyband”) in Japanese. The one in this pattern is not only a tube, but has straps, too, so that it can be wrapped around your body and bound in front. The piece is knitted flat and all in garter stitch and therefore quite easy to knit. It is suitable for beginners as well. A danish translation of this pattern was written by Marianne Holmen of strikkeglad.dk - it is available here.
For "Cable-Lovers" everywhere, this is a great fingerless mitt pattern for you. There are two distinct cables in the mitt. Both of these cables are unique in that they are fairly "delicate" cables in which all the knit stitches in the cables are knit through the back loop. If you love knitting cables, these long fingerless mitts will be fun for you to both make and wear and will allow you to text, type and knit in style and warmth. These mitts are knit using two circular needles, and the stitches are both charted and written out line by line. Skill Level: Intermediate - Intermediate + (assuming a basic knowledge of knitting, purling, cabling, and increasing and decreasing). The sample was expertly pattern tested by Jude, who can be reached at: uputats [!at] gmail.com, and was knit Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport in colorway Pewter (https://lornas-laces.myshopify.com/collections/all/shepherd-sport) All patterns are protected by copyright and are for personal use only. The patterns may not be reproduced for resale or distribution. However, any items made using this pattern may be sold. This is a listing for a pattern and not for the finished product. Thanks for stopping by.
The final harvest was two weekend ago. One ton of apple juice! Thanks to a bunch of friends that came over to help it was relatively effortless. Now we to try to drink it all is the challange, or not. Since the major harvesting is over around the house and the cold air is blowing in, craft season has begun. I have finished four bands in two weeks. And those weren't left over projects from last winter (hah those are still there!). I am very excited to get into pattern bands again with the slot looms. I have been buying some hardware so I dont have a box full of bands. Instead they will be finished projects. The belt hardware is faster the instant jelly. Cut, sow, hammer done. Here is my new belt and one for my son to brighten the dull fall sky (its been many shades of grey lately) The hardware will be available soon in the shop. First on the etsy shop then soon here. happy weaving season everyone!
Tablet woven belt with a cheerful, rhythmic pattern - made to order in your desired length. Such belts can be used in historical reenactment or as a folk / boho accessory. On bands longer than 100 cm the pattern will change direction, you can see it in the pictures. Length: choose. Length does not include tassels; it is only the woven part. If you order, e.g., 200 cm with tassels, it means your belt will be 200 cm + ca. 30 cm tassels = 230 cm in total. Width: about 5 cm Colour: You can choose "the green version", "the red version", or "custom colours". If you choose custom, write me a message and we will discuss the details. You will receive a picture with the wool samples I have available at the moment. Material: wool (various types) Historical evidence: This is a modern pattern designed following the logic of medieval tablet weaving techniques. Geometric patterns are suitable for the historical reenactment of Celtic, Scandinavian, Rus, Slavic, Anglo-Saxon, and other Iron Age and early medieval peoples. Wash with care, hand wash only! What is this craft? Tablet (card) weaving is an ancient craft of making strong, narrow, decorative bands. In the past men and women wore tablet woven bands as belts, leg wraps, hair bands or garment trims. Today tablet woven bands are used in historical reenactment (from Celtic to late medieval Europe), SCA, larp, folk costumes and all kinds of pagan, fantasy or Viking societies. They can also serve as handfasting cords, guitar straps, bag straps, bookmarks, etc. Custom orders Drop me a line if you would like to order a custom band. I weave all the bands myself and will be happy to discuss your idea for colours, pattern, material etc. Worldwide shipping with tracking number. Follow me on Instagram where you can see how the belts are made: _lostthread_
Sailor's Rib Fingerless Gloves Did you knit the Sailor's Rib Cowl, but still can't find anything to wear with it? Never fear, these Sailor's Rib Fingerless Gloves will do just the trick! Made with a reinforced palm and plenty of ribbing to keep them snug around the wrists and fingers, these mitts are sturdy, stylish, and warm. They are also suitable for either a man or a woman, with three sizes for your knitting pleasure. Note: As of 12/27/17, I have revised this pattern for clarity. If you notice anything amiss, please please please let me know! :) Sizes: small (medium; large) - directions for larger sizes will follow those for the smaller size in parentheses (and, for clarification, the small is for a hand roughly 7" - 7.5" in circumference at the base of the thumb, medium for 7.5" - 8.25", and large for 8.25" - 9") Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams); #9458 Bainbridge Island Heather - 1 skein Needles: one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 5, one set of dpns in size US 7 Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches on size 7 needles And with that, let's make some gloves! These mitts are designed as mirror images, so we'll work them one at a time, as follows. Left Mitt Using your size 5 needles, cast on 36 (40; 44) stitches and divide amongst your needles as follows: place 12 stitches on your first needle, 12 on your second, and 12 on your third (12, 16, 12; 14, 16, 14). Join in round. Then we'll work the ribbing, as follows: Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from * Work ribbing row until mitt measures 2" (2.5"; 3"). Then, switch to your size 7 needles and we'll begin incorporating the main pattern, which is Fisherman's Rib from page 4 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, except adapted for the round. Anyway, we'll continue as follows. Notice I have given each size's instructions separately, for clarity. Size Small: Row 1: (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Row 2: (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1 Row 3: (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Row 4: (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1 Size Medium: Row 1: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Row 2: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1 Row 3: k1, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Row 4: k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1 Size Large: Row 1: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Row 2: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3 Row 3: k2, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Row 4: k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3 Knit rows 1 - 4 of whichever size you're making, and then we'll set up our gusseting rows as follows. Again, I have broken the sizes down, for clarity: Size Small: Gusset Set-Up Row 1: (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1 (+1 stitch) Size Medium: Gusset Set-Up Row 1: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1 (+1 stitch) Size Large: Gusset Set-up Row 1: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Gusset Set-up Row 2: m1r, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3 (+1 stitch) Complete these two gusset row for your given size. Once those are done, we'll continue like so. Again, I have broken out the instructions for each individual size. Size Small: Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (and yes, on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after that m1l) Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) Size Medium: Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k1, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (and yes, on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after that m1l) Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round, knit until end of round Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) Size Large: Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, k2, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (and yes, on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after that m1l) Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) Work gusset rows 1 - 4 until you've added 8 (8; 9) extra stitches to your first needle and 7 (7; 8) to your third and you've just completed either row 2 or row 4 of the gusset pattern. Knit across first 8 (8; 9) stitches from first needle and then transfer those stitches and final 7 (7; 8) stitches from third needle to a scrap of yarn to work later as thumb. Then, we'll continue the same pattern we worked before, joining mitt back in round at thumb hole. I've rewritten the pattern rows below, for your convenience, but remember that, if you quit knitting your gusset at row 2, you'll begin the below pattern at row 1, whereas if you quit knitting your gusset at row 4, you'll begin the below pattern at row 3. Size Small: Row 1: (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Row 2: (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1 Row 3: (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Row 4: (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1 Size Medium: Row 1: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Row 2: k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1 Row 3: k1, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Row 4: k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k1 Size Large: Row 1: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Row 2: k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3 Row 3: k2, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Row 4: k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3 Knit rows 1 - 4 of your desired size mitt until mitt measures roughly 1" from thumb break and you've just finished row 2 or row 4 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size 5 needles, and we'll work a ribbing as follows: Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from * Knit this ribbing row until ribbing measures 1" (1.25"; 1.5"). Bind off loosely in pattern. Next, transfer thumb stitches to your size 5 needles. Knit 5 (6; 7) rows in a * k1, p1 * ribbing, picking up one extra stitch at the thumb break when you reach it (if that stitch should be a purl, it's fine to pick up a knit stitch on that first row around!). Bind off loosely in pattern. Tuck in ends and block. Right Mitt Using your size 5 needles, cast on 36 (40; 44) stitches and divide amongst your needles as follows: place 12 stitches on your first needle, 12 on your second, and 12 on your third (12, 16, 12; 14, 16, 14). Join in round. Then we'll work the ribbing, as follows: Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from * Work ribbing row until mitt measures 2" (2.5"; 3"). Then, switch to your size 7 needles and we'll begin incorporating the main pattern. Notice I have given each size's instructions separately, for clarity. Size Small: Row 1: k17, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1 Row 2: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1 Row 3: k17, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4 Row 4: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4 Size Medium: Row 1: k20, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1 Row 2: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1 Row 3: k20, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Row 4: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1 Size Large: Row 1: k23, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2 Row 2: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2 Row 3: k23, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, k2 Row 4: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2 Knit rows 1 - 4 of whichever size you're making, and then we'll set up our gusseting rows as follows. Again, I have broken the sizes down, for clarity: Size Small: Gusset Set-Up Row 1: k17, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1 Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 8 times, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1 (+1 stitch) Size Medium: Gusset Set-Up Row 1: k20, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1 Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1 (+1 stitch) Size Large: Gusset Set-Up Row 1: k23, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2 Gusset Set-Up Row 2: m1r, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2 (+1 stitch) Complete these two gusset row for your given size. Once those are done, we'll continue like so. Again, I have broken out the instructions for each individual size. Size Small: Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k17, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of row (and yes, on your first time working this row you will have none left to knit at the end) Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (yes; on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after your m1l) Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k17, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 12 (12; 14) stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 8 times, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) Size Medium: Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k20, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (yes; on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after your m1l) Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, k20, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 12 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) Size Large: Gusset Row 1: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, k23, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of row Gusset Row 2: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) (yes; on your first repeat of this row you will have nothing left to knit after your m1l) Gusset Row 3: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, k23, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, knit until end of round Gusset Row 4: knit until you have 14 stitches left on your first dpn, m1r, k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, m1l, knit until end of round (+2 stitches) Knit gusset rows 1 - 4 until you've added 8 (8; 9) extra stitches to your first needle and 7 (7; 8) to your third and you've just completed either row 2 or row 4 of the gusset pattern. Knit across first 8 (8; 9) stitches from first needle and then transfer those stitches and final 7 (7; 8) stitches from third needle to a scrap of yarn to work later as thumb. Then, we'll continue the same pattern we worked before, joining mitt back in round at thumb hole. I've rewritten the pattern rows below, for your convenience, but remember that, if you quit knitting your gusset at row 2, you'll begin the below pattern at row 1, whereas if you quit knitting your gusset at row 4, you'll begin the below pattern at row 3. Size Small: Row 1: k17, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1 Row 2: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1 Row 3: k17, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4 Row 4: (k1, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib)) 8 times, k1, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4 Size Medium: Row 1: k20, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1 Row 2: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p1, k2, p1, k1-tbl) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k1 Row 3: k20, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, knit until end of round Row 4: (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k2, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k1 Size Large: Row 1: k23, (p1, k2, p1, k1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2 Row 2: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p1, k2, p1, k1 through back loop (k1-tbl)) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2 Row 3: k23, (p4, k1) 3 times, p4, k2 Row 4: k2, (k1, slip 1 wyib) 9 times, k3, (p4, k1-tbl) 3 times, p4, k2 Knit rows 1 - 4 of your desired size mitt until mitt measures roughly 1" from thumb break and you've just finished row 2 or row 4 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size 5 needles, and we'll work a ribbing as follows: Ribbing Row (all sizes): * p1, k2, p1; rep from * Knit this ribbing row until ribbing measures 1" (1.25"; 1.5"). Bind off loosely in pattern. Next, transfer thumb stitches to your size 5 needles. Knit 5 (6; 7) rows in a * k1, p1 * ribbing, picking up one extra stitch at the thumb break when you reach it (if that stitch should be a purl, it's fine to pick up a knit stitch on that first row around!). Bind off loosely in pattern. Tuck in ends and block.
One of my favorite things about Fall are the all the cozy yet fashionable clothes that come along with it. Fall is probably my favorite time of year for clothes. Fall officially started in September, but I feel like it doesn't really get cold enough to wear fall clothes until Ocotober. Below are 6 of my favorite fall fashion staples. Tights You can't wear a big chunky sweater with baggy jeans or a baggy skirt. Tights are the perfect thing to pair with a big comfy sweater. I also love wearing boots with tights. Source Leg Warmers It's time to dig out all those leg warmers from the bottom of your closet. It's officially time to start accessorizing your boots with all the lovely leg warmer options out there. Source Coffee Coffee is definitely a fall accessory, at least for me! Source Scarves Check out this infographic on 40 ways to tie a scarf. I tend to always do mine the same way. Source Fall Hats All those wool you've been wearing in the summer are really perfect for fall. Source Ponchos I'm really in love with fall ponchos right now. I love how comfy they are and your shoulders never have to be cold. I'm slowly amassing my poncho collection. Source What are your fall fashion staples? Linking up at: Plucky's Second Thought A Stroll Thru Life The Dedated House (Make it Pretty Monday) Savvy Southern Style Ivy and Elephants From My Front Porch To Yours Rooted in Thyme French Country Cottage
Information about knitting with a knitting belt (or “makkin belt” in Shetland) (continually updated, whenever I remember to include something here) Hint: When you print this page as a PDF via the ...
Early medieval woven belt made of 100% wool, perfect for Your Viking costume. Historical pattern basis on Birka founds. The belt is made of the traditional and labor-intensive technique of weaving on tablets. It is one of the characteristic elements of the early medieval dress. It will be made of 100% woolen thread in selected shades Lenght of a belt is 200cm + tassels Wide of belt is 3,5 cm / 1,4 inches The actual color may slightly differ from the one shown in the picture, because of monitor settings and light. If You are looking for another color of the belt, please contact me by private message.
To thank you all for coming by throughout the year with kind and encouraging comments, here is a pattern I made for some knitted boot cuffs. I wore them today to church with a skirt, leggings, and boots, and they kept me quite cozy despite the cold weather. homespun cabled boot cuffs SIZE To fit most, up to a calf circumference of 16 inches. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Circumference of boot cuff, unstretched: approximately 12 inches Length of boot cuff: approximately 8 inches MATERIALS Bulky weight yarn; approximately 150 yards US #11/8.0 mm straight needles US #10/6.0 mm straight needles cable needle tapestry needle GAUGE 12 sts /16 rows = 4 inches PATTERN NOTES Boot cuffs are a great looking, stylish addition to your wardrobe. They knit up quickly, making them perfect for gift giving as well. I have knit them with straight needles, but the pattern could be easily converted to circular knitting by omitting the selvedge stitch at the beginning and end of each row and adjusting the knit and purl stitches accordingly. DIRECTIONS With US 10 needles, loosely cast on 38 stitches. Work in 2 x 2 rib as follows: Rows 1 and 3 (WS): Purl 1,*knit 2, purl 2; repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1. Rows 2 and 4 (RS): Knit 1, *knit 2, purl 2; repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1. Switch to US 11 needles. Begin cable pattern as follows: Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7 (WS): Purl 1, *knit 3, purl 9; repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1. Rows 2 and 6 (RS): Knit 1, *knit 9, purl 3; repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1. Row 4 (RS): Knit 1, *slip next 3 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle, knit 3, purl 3; repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1. Row 8 (RS): Knit 1, *knit 3, slip next 3 stitches to cable needle and hold in back, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle, purl 3; repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1. Repeat this 8 row cable pattern three times. Switch to US 10 needles and work in 2 x 2 rib as follows: Rows 1 and 3 (WS): Purl 1,*knit 2, purl 2; repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1. Rows 2 and 4 (RS): Knit 1, *knit 2, purl 2; repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1. Bind off in pattern. Sew seam using mattress stitch and weave in ends. **This pattern is specifically for personal use only**--Thank you so much, Deb.
Scalene is an asymmetrically shaped, triangular scarf that features both horizontal and vertical keyholes for several styles of wear. This gender neutral design looks great on women and men of any age.This 5 page pattern is written in one size with directions given for three gauges to accommodate lace - worsted weight yarns. Directions are given for knitting this scarf with or without striping throughout. Knitting is simple enough for an adventurous beginner, but interesting enough for knitters at any skill level.Also included is a separate PDF photo tutorial on how to twist your yarns together for a tidy edge when knitting stripes and carrying the non-working yarn along the selvedge.Numbers are provided for three gauges to accommodate lace – worsted weight yarns. Gauges for all sizes are for gently blocked garter stitch.
These leg warmers are a lot like the hand warmers from a couple of posts back; both projects are simply knit tubes. But while the hand warmers were knit with regular knitting needles flat and then …
Most often, I seem to work in 2" widths, creating the guitar straps which are the main product that I sell. Consequently, many of the patte...
Instructions for a pair of knitted spatterdashes with calf and instep shaping, plus detachable stirrups. Work in a solid color for the classic look, or opt for eye-catching two-toned spats. Farrow ribbing and some basic cables provide negative ease and a snug fit. Larger and smaller sizes with suggested modifications for a medium fit, to take it taller than mid-calf height, or wider for more generous leg shapes. Skills required: Increases, decreases, basic cabling, buttonholes, cable cast on, 2x2 tubular cast on, 2x2 tubular bind off. Also a great way to practice cabling without a cable needle. Links to helpful tutorials at the end. The pdf file is 4 pages long, and 650 kb in size. Pattern support is available, and I’d be happy to answer any questions you might have about the spats. This pattern (including text & images) is a Strange Hours design, © 2013. It is for personal use only.
For "Cable-Lovers" everywhere, this is a great fingerless mitt pattern for you. There are two distinct cables in the mitt. Both of these cables are unique in that they are fairly "delicate" cables in which all the knit stitches in the cables are knit through the back loop. If you love knitting cables, these long fingerless mitts will be fun for you to both make and wear and will allow you to text, type and knit in style and warmth. These mitts are knit using two circular needles, and the stitches are both charted and written out line by line. Skill Level: Intermediate - Intermediate + (assuming a basic knowledge of knitting, purling, cabling, and increasing and decreasing). The sample was expertly pattern tested by Jude, who can be reached at: uputats [!at] gmail.com, and was knit Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport in colorway Pewter (https://lornas-laces.myshopify.com/collections/all/shepherd-sport) All patterns are protected by copyright and are for personal use only. The patterns may not be reproduced for resale or distribution. However, any items made using this pattern may be sold. This is a listing for a pattern and not for the finished product. Thanks for stopping by.
