Do you love a fun, easy pattern with just a little bit of a twist? Then you’ll love the Hot Mess Headband! This adorable headband features one big cable row twisting the stitches over each other adding just the right amount of fun to the project. The Hot Mess Headband is a free knitting pattern download here on Ewe Ewe
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Great Ways to Use Old Hangers- Great ideas to upcycle unused hangers.
How-to make a Granny Square Curtain Dear friends, I've promised on Saturday I'd post a how-to for the bathroom c...
** This is a crochet pattern, NOT the finished toy! ** The pattern is written in English (US terms) Measurements: approx. 18 cm / 7,1" long and 13 cm / 5,1" high, made with hook size 2.5 Skill level: medium You will need: Schachenmayr Catania Approx. 60 g red (nr. 115) Approx. 20 g dark grey (nr. 242) Approx. 15 g light grey (nr. 172) Small amount of black (nr. 110) Small amount of light blue (nr. 173) Small amount of blue (nr. 201) Small amount of light brown (nr. 179) Crochet hook size 2.5 Fiberfill Tapestry needle 2 bamboo skewers Stitches used: Chain stitch Slip stitch Single Crochet
Over the long and hot summer I did some crochet sitting in the shady spots in the garden. One of the most popular posts on my site is the crochet covered coat hangers and it seems no matter the time of year folks are always hunting for this pattern. I decided to change the pattern up a
Unlock the joy of making a crocheted turtle amigurumi with our user-friendly pattern. Ideal for endearing toys or handmade gifts.
Now that we're expecting a BABY (oh my goodness!!!), I'm getting really excited about all the fun baby stuff I get to make. One of the first things I thought to make was a super squishy crocheted rug for the nursery, so I got right to work. It needed to fit a few criteria: no holes so little fingers won't get caught and little toes won't trip, a flat circle, really soft and squishy for tummy time, and a cute border that also doesn't have any holes. I searched and searched, but I couldn't find the perfect pattern. So of course I decided to free-wheel it! This "pattern" is very flexible and can be changed up depending on how big you want your rug and how tight/loose you crochet, but this will give you the specifics on how I got my perfect rug and general guidelines on how you can make yours! Pattern notes - READ THESE FIRST!! 1. The body of this rug is crocheted while holding two strands of yarn together. This makes it more dense so it will hold its shape as a rug instead of being soft like a blanket. 2. The edging is crocheted with one strand. 3. The body of this rug is crocheted in a spiral, but you'll want to keep track of the beginning of each round with a stitch marker so you know when to change your increase repeats. 4. Making a perfect circle in single crochet is a bit tricky. If you follow the same increase formula as with double crochet you'll end up with a round hexagon instead of a circle. Also, single crochet circles tend to ruffle and/or cup, so some flexibility with the pattern is required. But don't worry if yours starts to do either - just follow these tips to fix your circle and get it flat again: If it ruffles (gets wavy) - This means that you have too many stitches for the circle. To fix, insert a full round with NO increases. Then for your next round, continue increasing as if you never made that previous round. For instance, let's say you're at a round where you're increasing every 10th stitch, but you notice that you're starting to get ruffly. Finish that round, and for the next round, don't increase at all. Just put one single crochet in each stitch around, so you have the same number of stitches as the previous round. Then for your next round, increase every 11th stitch. This will NOT mess up your stitch counts. You should continue finishing each round at the end of a repeat. If it cups (the edge starts to cup up on itself) - This means you have too few stitches for the circle. To fix, insert a round with twice the number of increases, then go back to increasing as you were. For instance, let's take that round where you're increasing every 10th st, but you notice that you're cupping. Finish that round, and for the next round, increase every 5th st. Then for your next round, increase every 11th stitch. This WILL mess up your stitch counts. You will find that you are no longer finishing up your rounds at the end of a repeat. It's not a big deal! Just wait a few rounds to make sure that you've flattened out, then adjust your increases to get back on track. It won't be noticeable at all. 5. To avoid sewing in ends (because who likes that!), when you need to switch to a new yarn ball, just make sure your ends are about 3 inches long and crochet over the two ends. The density of this rug means that the yarn won't slip out and it's bulky enough that you don't even notice the extra yarn encased in that round. 6. At the end, if your finished rug is a little bit wavy in places, don't sweat it! Just lay it flat underneath a larger rug to be walked on for a few days, and that should flatten it out. Didn't work? Lay a few towels down on top of a carpet or rug, pin your new rug out flat on top of them, and spray it with water to wet-block. Put a fan on it for a few hours, and you should have a perfectly flat rug. But be careful not to soak too much! You don't want water getting through the rug and towels to the carpet below. Tummy Time Nursery Rug Pattern Supplies: Bernat Blanket Stripes - 6 balls (300 g) I used 3 balls of Stormy Sky and 3 balls of Making Waves Bernat Blanket Big Ball Yarn - 1 ball (300 g) I used Dark Teal - this ball is for the edging of the rug Crochet hook: M13/9.00mm Darning needle for weaving in ends Stitch marker (I used a paper clip) Finished Size: 48" diameter including edging for mine - (yours might be different!) Stitches and Abbreviations: Magic circle Chain (ch) Single Crochet (sc) Slip Stitch (ss) Skip (sk) Stitch (st) Repeat this sequence (*...*) Place all of these stitches in the same stitch ([...]) Body of the rug: Round 1: Holding two strands of the striped yarn (one of each color way), make a magic circle and make 6 sc into it. OR ch 4 and connect to the 1st ch with a ss to make a circle. 6 sc into the circle. (6) Round 2: [2sc] into each st. (12) - remember that we're crocheting in a spiral, so you don't need to join at the end or ch at the beginning of each round. Round 3: sc in 1st st. [2sc] in next. *sc, [2sc]* around. (18) Another way to write this is: 1, [2, 3] - you increase in the 2nd stitch and your repeat is 3 stitches all together. I find it easiest to count this way and get the increases in the correct spot, so I'll continue the pattern in this manner. Round 4: 1, 2, [3, 4] around (24) Round 5: 1, 2, 3, [4, 5] (30) Now to avoid that hexagon shape and to minimize ruffling, we're going to start alternating where those increases happen. Round 6: 1, [2, 3], 4, 5, 6 (36) Round 7: 1, 2, 3, 4, [5, 6], 7 (42) Round 8: 1, 2, [3, 4], 5, 6, 7, 8 (48) Round 9: [1, 2], 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 (54) Round 10: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, [6, 7], 8, 9, 10 (60) Continue with rounds until you reach the size you want (I had 37 rounds). You'll probably need to insert no-increase rounds here and there to keep your circle flat, but at the beginning of each increase round, assess where your last few increases happened and place that round's increase in a different stitch. Because everyone will probably need a different number of no-increase rounds (I was crocheting tightly, so I needed a no-increase round every 3-4 rounds after about Round 10), I'm not going to tell you where to put them. Just pay attention to how your rug is working up, and don't be afraid to rip out a round or two if that's what you need to do. I certainly ripped out plenty figuring out how to get this circle flat! Last Round: Start with your new increase pattern count for this round, and keep going until you are close to running out of yarn. Finish up by continuing to stitch and increase until the total stitches in your final round = a multiple of 4 (for instance 360, 432, 480, etc... just be sure it divides by both 4 and 6) This is because the edging is in a repeat of 4 stitches. If you don't feel like taking the time to count these out, it's really not a big deal. Your final edging may have one final repeat that doesn't look perfect. Eh. For your final two stitches, use a ss to help taper down the edge. Edging: Round E1: With solid-colored yarn, ss in the final ss. ch1. sc in each st around. Join to 1st sc with a ss. Round E2: ch1, sc in same st. *sk 1 st, [2sc, 2ch, 2sc] in next, sk 1 st, sc in next* Repeat around. If you've finished your Final Round with a multiple of 4, you should finish up this round with a [2sc, 2ch, 2sc] and a skipped st. If not, no big deal, just add an extra sc or sk an extra st to get yourself to the end of the round. SS to the 1st sc of the round. Bind off and weave in ends. You are welcome to sell anything you make with this pattern, but please do not sell this pattern as your own. Copyright Tummy Time Nursery Rug to The Ivy Killers Crochet 2018. I'd love to see your projects! You can upload them to Ravelry - just search for Tummy Time Nursery Rug and add your project - or you can post to Instagram and tag me @theivykillerscrochet for a feature on my page. And please feel free to comment below with any questions or thoughts! I'd love to hear all about your gorgeous rugs!!!
De här underbart vackra mormorsrutorna med Prästkragar får en nästan att känna doften av sommar, inte sant!? *** Information to my English speaking crochet friends: For a pattern in English, follow…
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Free Easy Crochet Blanket Pattern For HomeMake this soft and cozy crochet blanket that's designed for snuggling! Worked from side to side, you'll separate the individual shades of Bernat Blanket O'Go to create beautiful, plush stripes. Alternating single and treble crochet stitches creates delicate bobbles that are aligned to form a textured chevron pattern along each stripe. Finished with a fun fringe, this throw is truly a creative masterpiece! Material NotesEverything you need to make your new project is included in this kit! Time to get stitching, and don’t forget to share your progress!
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In today's Crochet 101 lesson, I'm going to teach you how to corner-to-corner. Follow along in my tutorial where who you how to make this great stitch.
Granny Tissue Box Cover Tutorial 8ply yarn. 3.5mm crochet hook. Wool needle. Scissors. Tissue Box 12cmD x 21.5cmL x 8.5 cmH This pattern is in English crocheting terms. English Abbreviations: sl st - slip stitch ch - chain dc - double crochet tr - treble d tr – double treble Ch 36, join with a sl st to form a circle. Round 1… 1 ch, 1 dc into this ch. 1 dc in each ch to end, join with a sl st to first dc. 36 dc in total. Round 2… 3 ch, 2 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr in this dc. *Miss 2 dc. 3 tr in next dc* repeat * - *4 times (5 groups in-total) Miss 2 dc. 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr, 3ch, 3 tr in this dc. *Miss 2 dc. 3 tr in next dc* repeat * - * 4 times (5 groups in-total) Join with a sl st to 3rd ch from beginning of round. Sl st across into first 3 ch space. Round 3… 3 ch, 2 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr, in this 3 ch space. 1 ch. 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr in next 3 ch space. *3 tr in next space *, repeat * - * 5 times (6 groups in-total) 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr in next 3 ch space. 1 ch. 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr in next 3 ch space. *3 tr in next space *, repeat * - * 5 times (6 groups in-total). Join with a sl st to 3rd ch from beginning of round. Sl st across into first 3 ch space. Round 4… 3 ch, 2 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr, in this 3 ch space. 1 ch. 3 tr in next space, 1 ch. 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr in next 3 ch space. *3 tr in next space *, repeat * - * 6 times (7 groups in-total) 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr in next 3 ch space. 1 ch. 3 tr in next space, 1 ch. 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr in next 3 ch space. *3 tr in next space *, repeat * - * 6 times (7 groups in-total). Join with a sl st to 3rd ch from beginning of round. Sl st across into first 3 ch space. Round 5… 3 ch, 2 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr, in this 3 ch space. 1 ch. 3 tr in next space, 1 ch, 3 tr in next space, 1 ch. 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr in next 3 ch space. *3 tr in next space *, repeat * - * 7 times (8 groups in-total) 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr in next 3 ch space. 1 ch. 3 tr in next space, 1 ch, 3 tr in next space, 1 ch. 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr in next 3 ch space. *3 tr in next space *, repeat * - * 7 times (8 groups in-total). Join with a sl st to 3rd ch from beginning of round. Sl st across into first 3 ch space. Round 6…Note d tr in corners!!! 4 ch, 2 d tr, 3 ch, 3 d tr, in this 3 ch space. 1 ch. 3 tr in next space, 1 ch. 3 tr in next space, 1 ch, 3 tr in next space,1 ch . 3 d tr, 3 ch, 3 d tr in next 3 ch space. *3 tr in next space *, repeat * - * 8 times (9 groups in-total) 3 d tr, 3 ch, 3 d tr in next 3 ch space. 1 ch. 3 tr in next space, 1 ch. 3 tr in next space, 1 ch, 3 tr in next space, 1 ch . 3 d tr, 3 ch, 3 d tr in next 3 ch space. *3 tr in next space *, repeat * - * 8 times (9 groups in-total). Join with a sl st to 4th ch from beginning of round. Sl st across into first 3 ch space. Round 7…thru to Round 14… 3 ch 2 tr in this space. 3 tr, in next and all spaces to end. Join with a sl st to 3rd ch from beginning of round. Sl st across into first space. Round 15…plain… Repeat round 7 once. Join with a sl st to 3rd ch from beginning of round. Sew and trim ends. Round 15…shell pattern… *6 tr in next space, 1 dc in next space.* repeat * - * around base to end. Join to start of round with a sl st. You will have 16 shells in total... Sew and trim ends. I do hope you enjoy making your own Granny Tissue Box Cover...
Hello friends! Today I’m excited to share a tutorial with you that will make granny square blankets a little easier and faster to make. I am not a fan of sewing. I can not remember the last t…
My Crochet Creations and Free Crochet Patterns: Enjoy the whole Crochet SheBang!