Collection of vero (stripboard) & tagboard layouts for 100s of popular guitar effects, with over 1000 verified designs. DIY your own boutique effects!
Collection of vero (stripboard) & tagboard layouts for 100s of popular guitar effects, with over 500 verified designs. DIY your own boutique effects!
Collection of vero (stripboard) & tagboard layouts for 100s of popular guitar effects, with over 500 verified designs. DIY your own boutique effects!
Collection of vero (stripboard) & tagboard layouts for 100s of popular guitar effects, with over 500 verified designs. DIY your own boutique effects!
Collection of vero (stripboard) & tagboard layouts for 100s of popular guitar effects, with over 1000 verified designs. DIY your own boutique effects!
Collection of vero (stripboard) & tagboard layouts for 100s of popular guitar effects, with over 1000 verified designs. DIY your own boutique effects!
Collection of vero (stripboard) & tagboard layouts for 100s of popular guitar effects, with over 500 verified designs. DIY your own boutique effects!
Collection of vero (stripboard) & tagboard layouts for 100s of popular guitar effects, with over 500 verified designs. DIY your own boutique effects!
Collection of vero (stripboard) & tagboard layouts for 100s of popular guitar effects, with over 1000 verified designs. DIY your own boutique effects!
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While I know we've posted this previously, I found this layout to be one of the more useful ones. Look into our archives / previous posts for more Valvecaster layouts. Power source I was getting better results with 12v 1A, see Garth's 24v version below. -K Another idea is to incorporate a boost of your own choice (i prefer the alembic stratoblaster) and hook that up before C1 . This gives the pedal an extra boost to the circuit so it distorts more. I would use separate pots for this, not a dual pot. WIRING DIAGRAM w/ LED & True Bypass Footswitch GARTH's VALVECASTER w/ MODS @ 24V
Jon has contributed a lot to the DIY pedal building community and I always learn something new when I layout one of his circuits. So I think we'll have a Jon Patton week, starting with the Clipper Ship. There's a good bit of flexibility with this one. Q1 can be pretty much any low gain transistor, germanium or silicon. If you're using a germanium transistor, use a germanium diode for D2 (if you're using a silicon transistor, omit D2). For D3-4 use anything with a low clipping threshold–1N60, 1N34, BAT41, etc. Q2-3 form a cascaded JFET stage (much like the AMZ Mini-Booster and a ton of other designs). Way more info on the circuit can be found here, including the schematic. I've laid it out for a typical 1590B with board mounted pots. Oh, and D1 is a 1N5817 or similar for power protection.
Create an awesome automatic phase pedal for your guitar effects using this 1977 guide from the magazine Everyday Electronics (December 1977 issue).
This post answers the question "how long does it take to learn guitar" to help provide a better understanding of the time commitment required.
Electric Guitars and Basses, Hand made in Japan
This is a library of perfboard and single-sided PCB effect layouts for guitar and bass for pedal building enthusiasts.
The way to create the "Reverb" effect can be divided into two types: mechanical and electronic, depending on the operation principle. The first and at the same
Guitar pedals, sometimes called effects pedals, provide an easy and effective way to modulate your electric guitar's tone. The order of your pedals well ensure the best tone, but what tone that is depends on your personal preference. While...
Here's a compressor design from MicTester. Here's what he had to say about it over on FSB: Do you remember the old-fashioned way of doing bass compression? It used an LDR across the volume control illuminated by an incandescent lamp across the speaker terminals! It was a simple method back in the 60s.... This compressor is almost that simple! It uses a handful of cheap components (I built one for £9 including hardware!), but works really well. Guitarists who've tried it often ask "Is it on?", but miss it when it's off! It's quiet, and has good "squeeze" without the gain-change artifacts you frequently get with transconductance amplifiers or FETs. The LDR should be ~1M in the dark, but almost anything will do. Some of the component values are quite carefully chosen. The input capacitor (15nF - made up of a 10 and a 4.7 if the 15 is unavailable) is chosen to give some frequency shaping, and the interstage capacitor prevents handling noise affecting the compression. Green LEDs are chosen because they most closely match the response of the LDR, but yellow works almost as well. Obviously, the LDR / LED combination should be facing each other, and must be in a light-tight enclosure. I've set up the board with pads for both 10nF and 4.7nF in parallel if you don't have a 15nF cap.
