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The January block for the Column-Along Quilt will be a Twinkle Star. This is a slightly larger version of a star block that I have done for each of the last two sampler quilts. It has been a favorite, and so I decided to bring it back in a different size. Rather than the 6-inch size, this block will be a giant 9 inches finished! As usual, I will be using a few of my favorite specialty rulers to make this block. There are other ways to make the same block of course, so feel free to use whatever method is most convenient for you. There is a paper piecing tutorial here along with templates for the star points if you don't like using the rulers. To make the block in a nine inch size you will need 3.5-inch strips of background along with two shades of blue. You will also need 2.5 and 2-inch strips. I mixed things up and used different combinations of blue and purple for these strips. The twinkle star features a star with skinny peaks. I like to use the tri-recs ruler for this block. It can also be paper pieced. There is a GO die available as well, so use the method of your preference. As long as your unfinished subunit is 3.5 inches, it will all work out in the end. For ruler people, take a 3.5 inch strip in blue and use the "Tri" part of the ruler to cut 4 triangles. Next take a 3.5 inch strip of background fabric and use the "Recs" part of the ruler to cut 4 pairs of wings. This is most easily accomplished by folding your fabric wrong sides together and cutting each pair at the same time. That will give you the mirror image pieces that you will need. Make sure to cut the small notch at the top, this will help you to line everything up for sewing. Other than those pesky triangles, everything else is a a simple square. For each block, you will also need 8 - 2 inch squares and 4 - 2.5 inch squares along with a single square of 3.5 inch fabric. First sew one wing to each blue triangle. When using the tri-recs tool, line the notch up with the bottom of the triangle. Notice that their is a small bit of blue showing at the bottom as well as a tiny bit of background hanging off of the top. This is correct alignment. The seam should hit the intersection of the tiny blue triangle and the notch. Once the wing is pressed with the seams going toward the background fabric, you should have a dog ear of background fabric at the top as well as a tiny tip of blue extending past the side of the block. you can trip these later. Repeat for all 4 triangles Next, sew the left side onto each triangle. Alignment is a bit easier this time, as the tip of the new triangle should line up with your dog ear. The notch on the bottom will still help you out as well. Repeat for all 4 triangles. Press toward the seams toward the background fabric again and trim your dog ears. Each unit should be 3.5 inches unfinished. We will use "flip-and-sew" triangles to make the small star points. Look carefully at the photo. Your squares are added to the base of the blue triangle. Place a 2 inch square in the corner and draw a line from corner to corner. Sew along the drawn line. Fold the corner back and press. You may trim the flap behind either now or later. Make sure that the flipped fabric covers the corner and the edges are straight before you trim though. Repeat the "flip-and-sew" technique on the opposite corner and for all four star points. The "flip-and-sew" corners on the background squares are completely optional. I think they make a nice secondary pattern when the blocks come together though. Place a 2.5 inch square of blue onto one corner of each 3.5 inch background square. Draw a line from corner to corner of the blue square and sew along the drawn line. Again, check the alignment and fabric placement before you cut anything. This would be a nice opportunity to sew another line about half an inch away from the first sewn line to yield "bonus triangles". Repeat for all four squares of background fabric. Your 8 pieced subunits will now combine with the solid blue 3.5 inch square to make a nine patch. Sew as you would normally sew a nine patch and you should have a 9.5 inch unfinished block. It will end up at 9 inches finished in the quilt. If you are making the twin sized quilt, you will need 8 blocks total, and if you are making the smaller size, you will need 6 blocks total. This should give you plenty of opportunity to mix up the color variety from block to block. Scroll down to the last post to read about the color of the month and to enter the drawing for hand dyed fabric from Vicki Welsh. The printable PDF is available on my web site here. Three pages this month! I have included and handy cutting chart for 1, 6 and 8 blocks as well.
Do you know that the regular, long rectangular ruler that all quilters own is not that regular?? It can do more than cutting strips! Those 30, 45, and 60 degree lines help you cut triangles. How about these triangles of this block? The big angle of this triangle measures 120 degrees and the other two […]
I will try to post some patterns to use for setting 12 inch finished blocks. It is not as simple as I thought it would be, because the images can't just be copied and pasted into the blogger template, but have to be uploaded separately. Plus, I can't figure out how to add in a table that I usually use for yardage and cutting instructions, so I will add that as a list, instead. At the store, we have a booklet available which I wrote some years ago, which contains 21 patterns. Unfortunately I can't just upload all of those at once either, as the computer that 19 of them were stored on crashed a few years ago, so I would have to re-type them all. (And I have no clue which USB stick they were backed up on.) Not to say that I wouldn't do that sometime, but not all at once. This is Setting number 20 from the booklet and has been very popular in previous years. 20. Two Side Sashing a Setting Pattern for 12-Inch Blocks uses 20 blocks finished size is about 74" x 88" a Periwinkle Pattern by Michelle Harris, 2012, free to print out and use for personal use The sampler blocks are 12-1/2" with the seam allowances; they will finish at 12" when sewn into the quilt. There are sashing strips only on 2 sides of the blocks. When laid out to form the pattern, the blocks rotate back and forth. (NB, This is a good pattern for when your sampler blocks have not all come out at the same size! you could cut the sashings wider, and then trim them all to one size before you assemble them into the quilt top, thus absorbing the size differences from block to block) Fabrics: A. Light Grey in the picture , used for Sashing for Blocks 1.1m (44") Cut 2 strips, 15" by the wof,* from these strips, sub-cut 20 rectangles, 3" x 15" Cut 1 strip, 12-1/2" x wof from this strip, and from the leftovers above, sub-cut 20 rectangles, 3" x 12-1/2" B. Inner Border Fabric (finishes at 1-1/2") .5m (18") Cut 8 strips, 2" x wof C. Outer Border Fabric (finishes at 6-1/2") 1.5m (60") Cut 8 strips, 7" x wof D. Binding Fabric .7m (24") Cut 9 strips, 2-1/2" x wof *wof means the width of fabric from selvage to selvage, usually between 42" and 44" Step One: Sew the Sashing rectangles to the sides of each block. If there is any variation in the size of your blocks, now is the time to even them all up! Measure them, and then trim them all to the same size, cutting the extra bits off of the sashing rectangles to keep the points on your sampler block intact. Step Two: Lay out the 20 blocks into a 4 column, 5 row arrangement, referring to the diagram above to see how to rotate the block. You might want to shift the blocks around until you are pleased with the way that the colors balance out. Sew the blocks into rows, and then sew the rows together. Step Three: Add the borders. To make the strips long enough, you will have to join the strips end to end and the cut the border to the size needed. When joining lengths, some people prefer to use a diagonal join . To do that, just overlap the ends of the strips at a 90° angle ,and then sew from corner to corner. Trim off the extra fabric and press. Cut the length of the borders as you go, because the length of them depends on the size of your central unit as it grows larger. Using the narrow, 2" strips for the inner border, cut the two side borders to the same measurement as the height of your center unit. Sew them to the sides and press seams out. Cut the top and bottom borders to the new width of the center unit and sew them on. Repeat this for the outer borders. Step Four: Layer the quilt with the batting and backing, and baste. Quilt! Step Five: Binding. Trim away the extra batting and backing fabric. This uses a double fold binding. Sew the 2-1/2" strips of binding fabric end to end with 45° diagonal seams. Trip away the extra fabric, and then press the strip in half lengthwise, with right side facing out, matching the raw edges. Starting partway along one of the sides, stitch the raw edges of the binding to the top side of the quilt, folding the strip into a false iter at each corner. Turn the folded edge of binding to the back of the quilt and had stitch it into place.
From a regular nonagon. To emphasize the illusion of interwoven triangles. New diagrams.
Can let christmas prints shine with neutral background while incorporating stars for a pop beautiful salvabrani – Artofit - Salvabrani
I can hardly belive that it's my turn to be the queen bee in our quilting bee, and it couldn't come at a more perfect time.... just before our move! Even as early as February, I have been thinking about what block I would like for my bee quilt. I ended up "auditioning" three possible blocks, but was not really sure if I wanted to impose curved piecing or a 100 piece paper pieced block on my other bee members. The most likely candidate, the Churnstile block from Stitchery Dickory Dock, was top of the list, but after I had made a few blocks, I realized that I had very specific ideas about the direction I wanted to go with the colors. I knew that I wanted to do paper piecing because... well, I just love the accuracy of it, but I had used up all my other free pattern ideas. So, I decided to search some other quilting bees to get some inspiration. When I first saw this block, I was a quite puzzled. Hmmm.... very simple and it really did nothing for me. ... that is until I saw the blocks put together! I thought ahhh... now I see it - wow, what a fantastic design! There are several versions of this block out there, but I used Zen Chic's free pattern Prism, and printed it at only 85% (the original is huge!) So, you might now recognize that pretty little stack of jewel tone fabrics that I shared last week... here they are again, all cut up and worked in with some colored low volumes. This is not my only project planned with this palette! ... and now I get to sit back and enjoy while all my busy bee members do the rest of the work for me ; ) Linking up this week to Let's Bee Social and Sew Cute Tuesday.
These patterns are small, generally 3 inches or less. Quick and easy to stitch. Click on the pattern for a jpeg that you can print. Seasons of Love Floral Border I used a font from my PCStitch software, which is intended only for personal use. Doily Summer Lace Unfolding Leaves Spring Bloom Faces Summer Breeze Star Window Four Christmas Trees September Snowflake Visit my website for more patterns. Lots of free PDF patterns available! June Butterfly Quick to stitch, June Butterfly is the essence of simplicity. Rosa Stitched by Anne Marie Courley This little charmer is a blast to stitch, and opens a world of infinite possibility! Beads? Sequins? Specialty stitches? It's all up to you! Ryan's Cross This is a good pattern for the novice blackworker. I added color with the Algerian Eye stitch in the middle of the flowers. Laurie Here's a little something just right for an ornament or sachet. More patterns at my website.
Two weeks ago I showed some photos of this block Flying Swallows or Circling Swallows BlockBase #3758 https://encyclopediaquiltpatterns.blogspot.com/2017/07/flying-swallows.html The Give Away is over and BRIDGET is the winner of an Arnold's Attic jellyroll. She was the last to comment within the official time period. Thanks to all commenters. Here's the free pattern for a 12" block. Rotary Cutting Instructions ' A - Cut 4 squares 4". B - Cut 1 square 6-1/4". Cut diagonally twice to make 4 triangles. You need 4 triangles. C - Cut 16 squares 2-3/8". Cut each in half diagonally to make 2 triangles. You need 32 triangles. D - Cut strips 1-1/2" wide. Cut 45 degree angles to make diamonds which are 2-1/4" on the sides. You need 24. Here are the rotary cutting instructions from BlockBase. I modified them to make it easier to cut and find the pieces. I did these sketches using Metropolitan Fair fabric plus some background. A 12" block is rather small for so many pieces, but I chose that size because it would work with JellyRolls. You might want to make it 16" or 20"---it's easy to recalculate in BlockBase. In the comments someone suggested hand piecing. Good for EPP, English Paper Piecing too
Welcome to the EQ8 Block Spotlight series! Each month we highlight a block from the EQ8 Block Library with a few design ideas. Then we want YOU to show us what you can do with the block! Let's get cre
Two weeks ago I showed some photos of this block Flying Swallows or Circling Swallows BlockBase #3758 https://encyclopediaquiltpatterns.blogspot.com/2017/07/flying-swallows.html The Give Away is over and BRIDGET is the winner of an Arnold's Attic jellyroll. She was the last to comment within the official time period. Thanks to all commenters. Here's the free pattern for a 12" block. Rotary Cutting Instructions ' A - Cut 4 squares 4". B - Cut 1 square 6-1/4". Cut diagonally twice to make 4 triangles. You need 4 triangles. C - Cut 16 squares 2-3/8". Cut each in half diagonally to make 2 triangles. You need 32 triangles. D - Cut strips 1-1/2" wide. Cut 45 degree angles to make diamonds which are 2-1/4" on the sides. You need 24. Here are the rotary cutting instructions from BlockBase. I modified them to make it easier to cut and find the pieces. I did these sketches using Metropolitan Fair fabric plus some background. A 12" block is rather small for so many pieces, but I chose that size because it would work with JellyRolls. You might want to make it 16" or 20"---it's easy to recalculate in BlockBase. In the comments someone suggested hand piecing. Good for EPP, English Paper Piecing too
BlockBase #3758 All the quilt photos are from online auctions. Ruth Finley called this variation on a star block Circling Sw...
Last month I received some happy mail – a small bundle of fabric from Paintbrush Studio Fabrics. They sent me some from their collection Brushstrokes and a Painter’s Palette solid in Eb…