Words of Wisdom: "We ought to do good to others as simply as a horse runs, or a bee makes honey, or a vine bears grapes season after season without thinking of the grapes it has borne." - Marcus Aurelius #TheBeeMan #BeeManBuzz #quoteforyou #quoteoftheday #honey
It’s Sara writing again! Recently, on Facebook, I saw a post about lifehacks, and it got me wondering: Why I haven’t seen more beekeeping hacks? I know they exist, but don’t they deserve their own spotlight—and genre!—in the world of lifehacking? If you agree and want to see some cool beekeeping tips, read on! Lifehacks are ingenious tricks that make everyday […]
Do Bee a Good Bee...
Invite bees and they will do so much good work for you. Plant flowers for bees and follow these steps for a bee-friendly garden.
Good morning, I wish everyone a nice weekend. Today I am with you with a very easy amigurumi bee pattern. This super cute crochet bee is so easy to make that even beginners will be able to do it without any difficulty. If you want to crochet bumble bee for your child and can’t find […]
A drawing of a cute kitty cat, holding a sign with the text Bee Kind and a funny bumblebee doodle. Kids do you get the bee pun? Be kind and love all animals. This cat and her message is a good reminder of kindness.
The Elephant Who Wanted To Be A Bee: A Children's Picture Book on Goal Setting and Perseverance (WantsToBe 2): Book 2 of the WantsToBe series by Valerie Harmon is the charming story of an Elephant who wants to become a Bee. Elephant is allergic to flowers and his nose is always dripping and eyes are always watering. He envies the Bee who is buzzing around the flowers, gathering nectar and pollen. The Bee tells the Elephant to use his ears to fly around like the Bee. But every time the Elephant tries, he only falls. Will the Elephant find a way and become a Bee or will he still remain an Elephant and allergic to flowers? It is an imaginative story that will make young readers dream and strive to do something different despite the limitations they face. The colorful illustrations give the Elephant and the Bee personality and also breathe life into the scenes. The illustrations give more details on the story too and kids will love the transformation of Elephant to Ellabee. The ending is unpredictable and I found it original. It gives kids freedom to think outside the usual mindset and also teaches them about perseverance. I found the book an inspiration because it encourages kids to be more innovative and creative. The combination of the two creatures, Elephant and Bee, is very original and added with the message it makes a good read.
(Photos by Heidi De Carvalho) Hello everyone, I hope you have had a good weekend. I decided to do another take on this dress its bee...
November bee blocks for do. Good Stitches, a charity bee (Joy Circle). Pattern: Mod Circle quilt from the Moda Bakeshop. We were asked to use Kona ash for the background and solids and prints in the colours coral, aqua and yellow for the petals. The result is sweet, but it has a little too less…
Bij Kerstmis? ⭐ Bij-vriendelijk ❗ Zijn(e) Liefde
DISCLAIMER: This article has been written for informational and educational purposes only and is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Table of Contents Introduction Bee Propolis and Immune System Support Other Health Benefits of Bee Propolis Types of Bee Propolis Supplements How to Choose the Best Bee Propolis Supplement Side Effects and Precautions Conclusion Bee propolis is a curious substance, a resinous concoction gathered by honeybees from various plants and trees. This elixir fills crevices and gaps in their hive and shields them against bacteria, viruses, and fungi. This substance consists of a complex mixture of plant resins, waxes, essential oils, and other organic compounds. The medicinal properties of bee propolis have been well-known since ancient times. It has been used for millennia by the likes of the Greeks, Romans, and Egyptians to treat various ailments. Infections, wounds, and gastrointestinal disorders were some of the conditions that propolis was applied to address. The immune system is the body's natural defense against harmful pathogens like bacteria, viruses, and fungi. A robust immune system is necessary for maintaining overall health and wellness. Stress, poor diet, and sleep deprivation are some of the factors that can compromise the immune system, leaving us more vulnerable to illnesses. It is a promising natural remedy to boost the immune system's response. Its multifaceted compounds have been shown to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. The unique blend of bioactive substances in bee propolis offers various health benefits beyond immune system support. While it’s diverse chemical composition and therapeutic properties have piqued the interest of modern medicine. As research continues, bee propolis may very well prove to be a valuable addition to our arsenal against diseases. Bee Propolis and Immune System Support Aspects of Bee Propolis Bee propolis along with other bee products are unique materials that contain a number of bioactive components, including but not limited to flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenes, and caffeic acid derivatives. These compounds have demonstrated antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. The effect of bee propolis on the immune system Several studies have been conducted to evaluate the possible benefits of bee propolis on the immune system. According to a study, bee propolis extracts may boost the activity of white blood cells, which are necessary for fighting infections. Bee propolis has been shown to suppress the growth of bacteria and viruses, including the influenza virus. How Bee Propolis Boosts the Immune System It may boost the immune system by stimulating the production of cytokines, which are signaling molecules that help to regulate the immune response. Additionally, propolis may enhance the activity of natural killer cells, specialized immune cells that help identify and destroy infected or cancerous cells. Bee propolis is a natural substance that has been used for centuries for its medicinal properties. Scientific studies have shown that bee propolis may help to boost the immune system and protect against various pathogens. While more research is needed to fully understand the effects of propolis on immune function, incorporating bee propolis supplements into your daily routine may be a natural and effective way to support your immune system. Other Health Benefits of Bee Propolis Bee propolis has a reputation for boosting the immune system, but it also appears to have other potential health benefits that have not yet been completely investigated. Some benefits are: Anti-inflammatory Properties: It has been found that bee propolis contains anti-inflammatory qualities that can help reduce inflammation in the body. Numerous diseases, including arthritis, and cardiovascular disease, have been linked to chronic inflammation. Antioxidant Properties: Bee propolis has a lot of antioxidants that can protect the body from the damage that unstable molecules called free radicals can do. Free radicals can harm cells and cause diseases to manifest. Microbiological Qualities: According to research, bee propolis possesses anti-microbial qualities that may aid in the elimination or slowing the growth of dangerous germs and viruses. This can aid in infection prevention and health promotion in general. Additional Advantages: Additional potential health advantages of bee propolis include better dental health and faster healing of wounds, respiratory health, and digestion. To verify these advantages, more study is necessary. Types Bee Propolis dietary supplements There are several different kinds of bee propolis supplements, including: Capsules: A practical and simple approach to absorbing bee propolis is in capsule form. Bee propolis extract is frequently combined with additional substances, such as vitamin C or echinacea, to create capsules. Tablets: Another choice for people wishing to include bee propolis to their diet is bee propolis pills. Bee propolis extract is frequently combined with additional substances, such as vitamin C or zinc, to create tablets. Tinctures: Bee propolis tinctures are liquid bee propolis supplements that can be dissolved in water or other drinks. Bee propolis is frequently steeped in alcohol or glycerin to create tinctures in order to extract its advantageous components. Additional Forms: Bee propolis is also available in other forms, such as creams, ointments, and sprays. These products are often used topically to promote wound healing or to soothe skin irritation. Supplements containing bee propolis offer a range of potential health benefits, including immune system support, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and anti-microbial properties. There are a variety of supplement forms to choose from, so it's easy to find one that fits your needs and preferences. As with any supplement, it's important to talk to your healthcare provider before adding bee propolis to your diet. How to Choose the Best Bee Propolis Supplement Purity and Quality: Look for a supplement that contains high-quality bee propolis sourced from reputable suppliers. Check that the supplement has been tested for purity and potency to ensure that it contains the active compounds that provide immune support. Dosage and Strength: Choose a supplement with dosage and strength that aligns with your health goals and individual needs. It's always best to consult with a healthcare provider to determine the optimal dosage. Manufacturing Process: Make sure the supplement has been produced using good manufacturing practices (GMP) and does not contain any harmful additives or preservatives. Cost and Availability: Consider the cost and availability of the supplement. Look for a reputable brand that offers a fair price for the product and is readily available in your area. Side Effects and Precautions Despite its widespread reputation as being harmless, bee propolis can potentially lead to adverse side effects, especially for those with bee or bee product allergies. Possible negative effects may include skin inflammation, swelling, and allergic reactions. Therefore, it is important to seek the advice of a healthcare professional before starting any bee propolis supplement, especially if you have any health issues or allergies. Supplements containing bee propolis can interact with certain prescription medications or other dietary supplements negatively, such as immune system suppressants, chemotherapeutic drugs, or blood thinners. It is essential to consult with a doctor before taking bee propolis supplements if you are taking any medications or dietary supplements. Bee propolis has been utilized for centuries due to its health-supporting characteristics, and scientific investigation has validated its effectiveness. When selecting a supplement made from bee propolis, significant factors to consider include its purity, dosage, method of manufacture, and price. Prior to commencing a bee propolis supplement regimen, it is of utmost importance to first consult a healthcare professional to ensure its safety and suitability for one's unique circumstances. Here you can check out Vorst’s Premium Supplements Bee Propolis Extract 500mg 90 Capsules and Bee Propolis Alcohol-Free. References and Resources https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17580109/ https://www.scielo.br/j/jvat/a/Lw7nNg6c94kCdVGFvbNPWbN/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4604764/ https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17077520/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3067468/ https://www.healthline.com/health/propolis-an-ancient-healer
A bee bath is a simple bee water feeder that is easy to make and care for in your home garden, and it's a nice touch to set out for your pollinating guests. Make one yourself easily with this tutorial and the bees will thank you.
Help the pollinators and harvest your own honey: Become a beekeeper! Learn the basics, from where to locate your aviary to how to keep your bees healthy, in this beginning beekeeping guide from University of Missouri Extension. | Moneen M. Jones Research Entomologist, Division of Plant Sciences College of Agriculture, Food and Natural Resources For a beginning beekeeper, between two and five hives is ideal. This size apiary is small enough for a beginner to manage but still provides enough bees to allow for winter losses. Expand in a couple of years, after you have gained experience and confidence. Once a hive has become established, it can produce 50 to 100 pounds of surplus honey each year. Take a beginning beekeeping class before you invest in bees and equipment. Between varroa mites and colony collapse disorder, knowledge of beekeeping management practices is essential. Check with your local MU Extension center about upcoming classes. Join local and state beekeeping associations for additional information and guidance. Attend any seminars or meetings that are offered to expand your education and to meet other beekeepers, who can provide valuable help. For additional information, check out some of the many good reference books on apiculture. When you are ready to buy supplies, you will have many beekeeping supply companies to choose from; a few are listed near the end of this guide. You can buy prebuilt hive kits that include all necessary hive components, or you can build your hive boxes from scratch. You can also order all the parts ready to be assembled, in which case all else you will need are a hammer, some nails and any color of exterior latex-based paint. Order your bees early for the next year. Suppliers of bees commonly take orders for nucleus colonies, called nucs for short, or package bees in November and December, for delivery in April or May. If you wait too long to order, you will pay a premium or they may not have any bees to sell you. Several months before your colonies arrive, buy your hive components and other equipment. Have the hives assembled and placed on your selected site 30 days before your bees are scheduled to arrive. Characteristics of a good colony A strong population is crucial to a good bee colony. The queen lays a full brood pattern, skipping only a few cells, covering eight to 10 frames. You should see more worker brood than drone brood. The colony population reaches 75,000 bees during the summer, which includes 30,000 or more field bees. The bees cover all the frames in two hive bodies and the frames in one or more supers. Drones appear in the spring but are forced out of the hive in the fall. About 1,000 of these male bees will live in the hive during the summer. A good colony is docile when managed and shows little tendency to swarm, yet has workers that are good foragers. Each of the many strains of honey bees has different characteristics. The Italians are the most docile and are a good "starter" strain for a beginner. Depending on the available nectar, each colony should produce between 40 and 80 pounds for itself to overwinter and 50 to 100 pounds of surplus honey each season that you can harvest. Harvest excess honey from the honey supers, leaving the honey in the brood boxes for the bees' winter food. The most common cause of colony demise in Missouri is winter starvation. Going into winter, a strong hive with five full frames of bees per brood box that contains a healthy queen and a minimal number of varroa mites will give the bees an excellent chance of survival. Leave a minimum of 40 to 80 pounds of honey per brood box for winter food and provide supplemental food (sugar water of 1 part water to 2 parts sugar) if necessary to bring the boxes up to weight. Apiary location Place the apiary near an abundant source of nectar and pollen. Trees and shrubs provide an excellent source of pollen, and plants in the daisy, legume and mint families provide excellent sources of nectar. In town, ornamental trees and plants usually provide ample sources of both. Ornamental plants in cities provide for an extended honey flow. A good supply of water within a quarter mile of the hives is essential. Birdbaths, swimming pools, dog bowls and even lagoons are good sources of water for the bees. Bees actually prefer muddy water because of the extra minerals from the soil. A backyard apiary may need to offer a water source if none of the above are available. A shallow pan filled with water and some type of substrate, such as small rocks or floating pieces of wood, is an excellent addition to an apiary. Be sure to include a substrate for the bees to perch on as they are not good swimmers. The apiary should face east or south with a northern windbreak. The location should be well-drained, away from any human or livestock paths, and hidden from unwanted visitors. Cattle and humans are naturally curious and might destroy or vandalize the hives, if tempted. The south face of a hillside is ideal, but bees will adapt to less-than-ideal locations. Deciduous trees that partially shade the colony in summer afternoons and allow the sun to penetrate in winter are desirable. Place the apiary near an all-weather road because you will need to work the bees in all kinds of weather. When placing an apiary in town, face the hive entrance about a foot from a tall fence or shrub row so the bees will set their foraging flight pattern as high overhead as possible. When placing your hives, provide a weed barrier — such as tin, gravel or recycled materials — for stability and ease of maintenance. Place the hives 18 inches above the ground on a stand, blocks or a pallet to minimize colony damage from skunks or rodents and, if you are using a screened bottom board, for dead pests to drop through. Hives should be level from side to side but should be tilted slightly forward to prevent water from accumulating inside. Ventilate the hive through the top by propping open the telescoping lid with a stick to reduce humidity inside the hive. Moist conditions inside promote diseases. Equipment Due to bee health issues, buying new equipment is advisable. Much of the used bee equipment available has been inherited by nonbeekeeping family members, who may unknowingly be selling infected hives. Plus, frames and foundation need to be replaced every three to five years. Over time, the wax absorbs chemicals and contaminants that could be hazardous to larvae and young bees. An eight- or 10-frame Langstroth hive is ideal for a beginning beekeeper (Figure 1). After you are comfortable keeping bees in this industry standard, you can experiment with other styles, such as top bar or horizontal deep hives. With the Langstroth, you can interchange and add standard hive equipment as needed. Note: Once you have chosen a frame supplier, you will need to get future frames from the same supplier because there is not an industry standard for frame construction and frames are not interchangeable between manufacturers. A basic hive consists of the following parts: Two brood boxes, called "deeps," for the brood Two super boxes, called "mediums" or "supers," for excess honey stores Bottom board, either screened or solid reversible Entrance reducer Queen excluder (optional) Inner cover Telescoping lid Depending on the amount of honey your hive produces, have additional medium supers ready to add to the hive as needed. The standard brood box, or deep, is 95/8 inches deep, 16-1/4 inches wide and 19-7/8 inches long. Deeps are for brood and for hive honey stores for the winter; this honey is not excess for harvesting but is winter food for the bees. Shallow supers, used mainly for comb honey production, are the same width and length but are only 5-11/16 inches deep. The medium super is 65/8 inches deep (Figure 2). Hive boxes are built to contain 10 frames, but using nine frames is more convenient when working with bees, so remove one after the bees have completely pulled out all of the wax. Frames need to be in the center of the hive box, equally spaced with no more than 3/8 inch between their pulled wax foundations. Brood frames have small communication holes at the bottom that allow bee movement between sides. Move frames individually using the hive tool when you are working with your bees. Foundation is available in a variety of options: wax, plastic, a combination of wax and plastic, and one-piece foundation-and-frame combinations. Bees prefer foundations of pure wax or of thin, wax-coated plastic to plastic foundations. Bees need to be fed or in a strong nectar flow before they will "draw out," or build their comb on, any foundation. Do not combine different types of foundation in a single brood box until the wax is completely pulled. A strong colony will require at least two medium supers for honey storage. Add them when the brood boxes are 70 percent full of bees and there is a strong nectar flow in the spring. Special foundations and tools are made for the production of cut comb honey. This unwired wax foundation is thinner than a regular wax foundation and is made mostly of wax cappings. Plastic rings are pressed to the foundation, and bees fill and cap the areas within and around the rings. Management practices for raising comb honey differ from simple honey production practices, and comb honey production is recommended for experienced beekeepers. If you have 40 or more colonies, consider buying a motorized, or radial, extractor (Figure 3). Many beekeepers find that using a less expensive manual, or tangential, extractor works very well and serves their needs for years (Figure 4). Cut comb honey requires no investment in an extractor. With comb honey, only woodenware is stored, whereas comb storage requires fumigation. Figure 1 Wooden frames for holding the comb hang inside the body of a hive. Frames are sized for shallow, medium or deep hive bodies. Figure 2 Parts of a beehive. Bees are reared in a brood chamber in the lowest level of the hive. Honey is stored in upper levels. Figure 3 Radial extractor with frames placed in the reel like spokes of a wheel for removing honey from the comb (extractor shown here with cover removed). [E.H. Thorne (Beehives) Ltd.; used with permission]. Figure 4 Three-frame tangential extractor for extracting honey from the frames. (Maxant Industries; used with permission). Installing bees When installing bees from a package, gently shake the bees from the package into the desired hive. Place any bees remaining in the package on the ground in front of the hive; they should find their way into the hive eventually. The queen will be in a cage that is corked on both ends. Remove the cork that is on the end with candy. Place this cage candy-side-up between two center frames of the hive. The bees will eat the candy within a couple of days, releasing the queen into the hive. Installing a nuc is much easier. Nucs are typically provided on five frames. Carefully insert the frames into the center of your hive. Insert empty frames to fill out the hive. Honey plants Spring honey plants in Missouri include (in approximate order of importance) clovers, sweet clovers, other legumes, tulip poplar trees, dandelions, maple trees, locust trees, willow trees, basswood trees, fruit trees and berry plants. Trees, sorghum and other grasses are important pollen sources. In summer and fall, bees find nectar and pollen in soybeans, cotton, garden plants, various ornamentals, asters, goldenrod, milkweed, morningglory, smartweed, sumac and sunflowers. Bees will use thousands of species. Those listed here may not be the most important in your area. Plants bloom at different times in different places. According to Hopkins' Bioclimatic Law, in North America east of the Rockies, a 400-foot increase in elevation, a 4-degree change in latitude north or a 10-degree change in longitude east will cause any given biological event to occur four days later in the spring or four days earlier in the fall. If tulip poplars begin to bloom in the Bootheel region around May 15, they should bloom five days later in Columbia and 10 days later in Lancaster on the Iowa border (Figure 5). Moving bees to new nectar sources can be beneficial. About July 1, you might wish to move the bees from town to a soybean field, with the owner's permission. Always move the bees at least three miles from their previous site and during the dark. The bees will orient themselves to the new location when the hive is opened. Figure 5 Missouri planting regions. Disease prevention To prevent disease, always buy new equipment, and replace frames and foundations every three to five years. Have enough hive tools available that you can use one per bee yard to avoid cross-contamination. Foulbrood European and American foulbrood (EFB and AFB) are bacterial diseases of bees. AFB spreads to larva through spores and can quickly kill a colony. Treatment for American foulbrood is usually total hive destruction because the disease is difficult to control with medicine and the spores will live in brood boxes for decades The bacteria that causes EFB does not produce spores, but multiplies in the larva's gut after ingested. EFB is less likely to spread in colonies with strong nectar flow. Treatment with antibiotics might clear up an infected colony, and all equipment will need to be cleaned to prevent reinfection. Signs of foulbrood include a foul smell and a spotty brood pattern. Diagnostic kits that test for foulbrood and give immediate results can be purchased from beekeeping suppliers. Nosema disease Two types of nosema fungi are now known to cause disease in bees. Nosema apis is primarily a problem in winter and early spring, and Nosema ceranae in summer and fall. Both fungi cause disease in adult bees and spread by spores. Nosema is difficult to identify and diagnose because there are no symptoms that are specific to it. Only a microsopic exam can provide a reliable diagnosis. The best control measures for nosema are a healthy diet of pollen and nectar, and moisture control in the hives. Antibiotics can be purchased from beekeeping supply companies, but use them only when necessary, because bees can develop resistance to them. Do not use antibiotics during the honey production season. Keep a good supply of food for the colony at all times. Most colonies that do not survive the winter die in March of starvation or of nosema, due to moisture issues inside the hive during the cold winter months. Mite control Acarapis woodi (Rennie) The honey bee tracheal mite, Acarapis woodi (Rennie), was found in Jackson County, Missouri, on April 17, 1986. These mites are now present in every Missouri county. First discovered in 1921, tracheal mites were a probable cause of Isle of Wight disease. Most honey bees on that island were killed by this mite. All surviving bees were tracheal mite–resistant. It is best to use honey bee queens and package bees that are resistant to tracheal mites. The Italian bee strain, Apis mellifera ligustica, is susceptible to tracheal mites. Resistance is documented in carniolan bees, Apis mellifera carnica. Currently, resistance is developing or being developed in other races of honey bee. There are two fumigant treatments for tracheal mites, Mite-a-Thol and Mite-Away II, and a grease paddy method. Treating colonies continuously with oil-sugar patties has been proven to depress mite populations. These patties are made of 3 parts sugar to 1 part vegetable shortening, with 1/2 pound of honey and 1 ounce of peppermint flavoring mixed in as bee attractants. The residual grease on the bees smothers mites. The use of resistant bees and oil-sugar patties will give sufficient control of tracheal mites. Varroa jacobsoni Oudemans The Varroa mite is the most severe problem in beekeeping. Varroa mites were detected in West Plains and Hayti, Missouri, in 1989. These mites have since spread throughout the state. Without treatment, a colony of bees will die from varroa parasitism within 36 months. Use of resistant bees, such as the Russian strain, is the only long-term solution to varroosis in honey bees. In the interim, monitoring and treatment are the best management practices. Monitor mite populations by counting mites using a jar or sticky board method. For the jar method, about 300 bees are captured in a mason jar with 1/3 cup of powdered sugar. Rolling the bees in the sugar causes the mites to drop off. The sticky board method uses a screened bottom board with a rear-access removable tray that catches any mites that are brushed off, let go, or slip off hive components and fall to the bottom board. Treatments include dusting the hive components with powdered sugar, drone trapping, or chemical treatments. With drone trapping, two frames are used to trap out mites by using drones as bait. As the drone comb is replaced, the mite population is reduced. The chemical treatments come in the form of fumigants, such as Mite-Away Quick Strips; essential oils; and miticides, such as Apistan, Apiguard and CheckMite. The miticides require contact with the honey bee and then the hitchhiking mite. These chemicals should be used as a last resort because they can decrease egg laying and drone reproductive health, and can be absorbed into the beeswax. If required, colonies can be treated with fluvalinate (Apistan), organophosphate (CheckMite), or formic acid–impregnated plastic strips (Mite-Away Quick Strips) twice each year, before and after honey season. Quick Strips have a treatment period of just seven days, reducing the opportunity for future resistance. Alternating Apistan with Apiguard will also reduce the incidence of resistance. As always, follow manufacturer's instructions for each chemical treatment selected. Monitor for mites every other month. If you are not sure if you have an infestation, ask a beekeeping friend or go to your local MU Extension center for identification of mites. If you find one mite, you can assume 500 are present. Note The University of Missouri intends no endorsement of products named in this guide nor criticism of similar products that are not mentioned. Wax moth control Wax moths are a destructive beehive pest. A strong colony with a large population of young housekeeping bees is the best defense against them. Another control measure is to fumigate small amounts of equipment in large plastic garbage bags. Wax moth colonies do not thrive in light and fresh air, so a rack that exposes hive components to ventilation and protects them from rain is ideal. You can also kill a small population of eggs, larvae and pupae by placing the entire super in a large freezer for two days. As a last resort, you can fumigate with paradichlorobenzene moth crystals (not naphthalene or moth balls) before placing them back on. To fumigate, stack equipment as on a hive, seal up all air holes, and put the stack on a flat surface. Put a piece of notebook paper over the top frames to hold the fumigant on the stack. Put a sheet of plastic over the fumigant, and cover the entire stack with a flat board or telescoping cover. Seal side cracks between the supers with tape. Two tablespoons of paradichlorobenzene will fumigate eight supers or four hive bodies. Before using the supers next season, set the frames outside one full week to air out. Hive beetle control Small hive beetles can be destructive to a bee colony. The larvae tunnel through the comb and leave excrement that causes the honey to ferment and become runny. Clusters of eggs laid in areas where bees cannot tunnel lead to thousands of aggressive larvae seeking pollen, bee larvae and pupae to eat. Maintaining a large, strong colony is the best defense for this pest. Monitoring for and trapping beetles can reduce large numbers in a hive. Insecticide drift You are responsible for protecting your colonies. Confine the colonies with ventilated cloth for three days during heavy insecticide spraying, but bees must be allowed to fly on the fourth day. Familiarize yourself with spray practices and chemicals used around your apiary. Whenever possible, locate colonies away from frequently sprayed fields. If this is impossible, an upwind location is better than a downwind location. Glossary Apiary Group of bee colonies in one location; bee yard. Apiculture The science and art of studying and using honey bees for the benefit of humans. Beeswax Wax secreted from glands on the underside of bee abdomens and then molded to form honeycomb. Brood Immature or developing stages of bees; includes eggs, larvae (unsealed brood) and pupae (sealed brood). Brood chamber The area of the hive where the brood is reared; usually the lowermost hive bodies; contains brood comb. Brood nest The area of hive where bees are densely clustered and brood is reared. Colony An entire honey bee family or social unit living together in a hive or other shelter. Colony collapse disorder A pathological condition affecting a large number of honey bee colonies, in which various stresses may lead to the abrupt disappearance of worker bees from the hive, leaving only the queen and newly hatched bees behind and thus causing the colony to stop functioning. Comb A beeswax structure composed of two layers of horizontal cells sharing their bases, usually within a wooden frame in a hive. The words "comb" and "frame" are often used interchangeably; for example, a frame of brood, a comb of brood. Comb honey Honey in the sealed comb in which it was produced. It is also called section comb honey when produced in thin wooden frames (sections) and comb honey when produced in shallow frames. Draw To shape and build, as to draw comb from a sheet of foundation. Dysentery A malady of adult bees marked by an accumulation of excess feces or waste products, and by their release in and near the hive. Field bee, or forager Worker bee that travels outside the hive to collect nectar, pollen, water and propolis, a waxy substance that bees use in the hive as cement. Foundation, or comb foundation A thin sheet of beeswax embossed on each side with the cell pattern, on which the bees build a honeycomb. Foulbrood A general name for infectious diseases of immature bees that cause them to die and their remains to smell bad. The term most often refers to American foulbrood. Frame A wooden rectangle that surrounds the comb and hangs in the hive. It may be called Hoffman, Langstroth or self-spacing because of differences in size and widened end-bars that provide a bee space between the combs. Hive body A single wooden rim or shell that holds a set of frames. When used for the brood nest, it is called a brood chamber; when used above the brood nest for honey storage, it is called a super. It may be of various sizes and adapted for comb honey sections. Honey flow Period when bees are collecting nectar in plentiful amounts from plants and storing a surplus of honey. House bee A young worker bee, 1 day to 2 weeks old, that works only in the hive. Langstroth hive A hive with movable frames. The bee space around the frames allows you to move the frames. It was invented by L.L. Langstroth. Nectar flow Period when nectar is available. Nosema disease An infectious disease of adult bees caused by the fungus Nosema apis or Nosema ceranae Nuc Short for nucleus colon. A small bee colony, complete with a queen or the means to make one, bees, brood and food. Package bees Two to 4 pounds of worker bees, usually with a queen, in a screen-sided wooden cage with a can of sugar syrup for food. Paradichlorobenzene (PDB) A white crystalline substance used to fumigate combs and repel wax moths. Pollen Male reproductive cells of flowers collected and used by bees as food for rearing their young. It is the protein part of the diet. Frequently called bee bread when stored in cells in the colony. Pollen substitute Mixture of water, sugar and other material, such as soy flour or brewer's yeast, used for bee feed. Propolis A mixture of tree resins and enzymes used by bees as a cement and to fill in small spaces in the hive. Queen Sexually developed female bee. The mother of all bees in the colony. Queen right A colony with a queen that is capable of laying fertile eggs. Rendering wax Melting old combs and wax cappings and removing refuse to partially refine the beeswax. May be put through a wax press. Super A hive body used for honey storage above the brood chambers of a hive. Swarm A group of worker bees and a queen (usually the old one) that leave the hive to establish a new colony; a word formerly used to describe a hive or colony of bees. Telescoping cover A hive cover, used with an inner cover, that extends downward several inches on all four sides of a hive. Uniting Combining one honey bee colony with another. Wax moth An insect whose larvae feed on and destroy honey bee combs. Wired foundation Comb foundation with vertical wires embedded in it for added strength. Wiring Installing tinned wire in frames as support for combs. Beekeeping suppliers, organizations and resources Suppliers Betterbee 8 Meader Road, Greenwich, NY 12834 800-632-3379 http://betterbee.com Dadant and Sons 51 S. Second St., Hamilton, IL 62341 888-922-1293 http://dadant.com GloryBee P.O. Box 2744, Eugene, OR 97402 800-456-7923 http://glorybee.com Honey Bee Ware N1829 Municipal Drive, Greenville, WI 54942 920-779-3019 http://honeybeeware.com Mann Lake Ltd. 501 S. First St., Hackensack, MN 56452 800-880-7694 http://mannlakeltd.com Kelley Beekeeping Co. P.O. Box 240, Clarkson, KY 42726 800-233-2899 https://kelleybees.com Organizations Local As of March 2016, Missouri had 35 local beekeeping associations. See the Missouri State Beekeepers Association website for a list of the local associations and information on when and where they meet: http://mostatebeekeepers.org/local-clubs. Regional Each of the regional beekeeping societies listed below holds an annual meeting or conference. EAS also publishes a quarterly newsletter. Eastern Apicultural Society of North America (EAS) http://easternapiculture.org Heartland Apicultural Society http://heartlandbees.org State The Missouri State Beekeeping Association holds an annual conference, publishes a bimonthly newsletter and offers robust member-exclusive content on its website: http://mostatebeekeepers.org National American Beekeeping Federation http://abfnet.org American Honey Producers Association https://www.ahpanet.com/ National Honey Board http://honey.com Pollinator Partnership http://pollinator.org Partnership associations FieldWatch, a nonprofit organization that operates DriftWatch, a mapping tool for communication among beekeepers, farmers and pesticide applicators on the presence of apiaries and pesticide-sensitive crops http://fieldwatch.com Honey Bee Health Coalition, a group of almost 40 food, agriculture, government and conservation organizations and agencies focused on achieving and supporting a healthy population of honey bees and other pollinators http://honeybeehealthcoalition.org Master Pollinator Steward Program, an MU Extension program developed to educate the general public about the plight of pollinators and teach them steps they can take to benefit pollinators https://extension.missouri.edu/programs/master-pollinator-steward Pollinator Stewardship Council, a nonprofit group that strives to protect pollinators vital to a sustainable and affordable food supply from the adverse effects of pesticides http://pollinatorstewardship.org Periodicals American Bee Journal 217-847-3324 [email protected] http://americanbeejournal.com Bee World 011-44-29-2037-2409, [email protected] https://ibra.org.uk/bee-world American Beekeeping Federation Newsletter and ABF E-Buzz 404-760-2875 [email protected] http://abfnet.org References The ABC and XYZ of Bee Culture: An Encyclopedia of Beekeeping (40th edition). Roger Morse, A.I. Root Company, Medina, Ohio (1990). Anatomy of the Honey Bee. R.E. Snodgrass, Comstock Books, Ithaca, N.Y. (1956). The Archaeology of Beekeeping. Eva Crane, Cornell University Press, Ithaca, N.Y. (1983). Beekeeping at Buckfast Abbey. Brother Adam, available from Wicwas Press, Cheshire, Conn. Beekeeping in the United States. USDA Agricultural Handbook #335, Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. The Biology of the Honey Bee. Mark L. Winston, Harvard University Press, Cambridge, Mass. (1987). The Dancing Bees: An Account of the Life and Senses of the Honey Bee. Karl von Frisch, translated from the German by Dora Isle and Norman Walker, second edition, Methuen, London (1966). The Hive and the Honey Bee. Edited by Dadant and Sons Inc., Hamilton, Ill. (1991). Honey Bees and Beekeeping. Keith Deleplane, University of Georgia, available from Dadant and Sons Inc. Hamilton, Ill. (1995). Honey Bee Pests, Predators, and Diseases. Roger A. Morse and Richard Nowagrodzki, editors, Wicwas Press, Cheshire, Conn. (1990). Queen Rearing and Bee Breeding. Harry H. Laidlaw Jr. and Robert E. Page, Wicwas Press, Cheshire, Conn. (1997). Queen Rearing Simplified. Vince Cook, available from Dadant and Sons Inc., Hamilton, Ill. Original author: Raymond A. Nabors, with contributions from Flernoy Jones
Exfoliation is important year-round, but in the cooler months I tend to find that my skin starts to look a bit more dull and dry than usual. Although moisturising is really important, the skincare step that makes the most difference for my skin is always exfoliaiton. Not only does it leave my skin looking brighter but it also helps create a more even and refined surface that also improves the application of my makeup. Over the last couple of months I've been trying out a couple of new exfoliaters from Green People, Bee Good and Codage - they're all really nice products (which is why I'm featuring them today) and I thought I'd give a mini-review of each one. If you're in the market for a new manual (scrubby) exfoliater then I hope you find this post helpful! Green People Fruit Scrub Exfoliator* | rrp £12.95 (50ml) This is the most recent exfoliater that I've been using and it's probably my least favourite of the three in today's blog post. That being said, I still really enjoy using this face scrub and I would reach for it over quite a few of the exfoliators that I've tried in the past as it's a good product. It features medium/fine exfoliating particles that offer a thorough exfoliation that's still kind to more sensitive skin types. It leaves me skin looking brighter and feeling smoother, although it isn't quite as effective as products that feature finer exfoliating particles. However, it is a natural and organic products - featuring 88% organic ingredients - and I typically really enjoy using Green People's skincare. I think that the brand is truly fantastic and maybe this influenced my thoughts about the product slightly, as it just doesn't quite live up to Green People's Gentle Cleanse and Makeup Remover which is one of my all-time favourite cleansers. All in all, this is a really nice facial exfoliater and given that it features such a high percentage of organic content I would consider repurchasing it over and above similar non-organic products. Bee Good Honey and Camellia Facial Exfoliator* | rrp £10.50 (50ml) This is a lovely natural facial exfoliater, and, from what I've tried so far, it's probably one of my favourite Bee Good skincare products. It features medium/fine exfoliating particles that offer an effective exfoliation without irritating my sensitive skin. I find that my skin really is left looking brighter and more refined after use, and the creamy base adds a moisturising element to the product. This is my second favourite facial exfoliator out of the products in today's post and I think that it represents really good value for money. I'd definitely repurchase this - especially over other products I've tried at a similar price point - and, like Green People, you can find Bee Good's products in Waitrose stores. Codage Scrubbing Cream | rrp £36.00 (50ml) This is definitely the best exfoliating product out of the three that I've tried, however, the price point is considerably higher! I found that the Codage Scrubbing Cream featured much finer exfoliating particles that gave more effective and noticeable results, but I don't think that they necessarily reflected the higher price point as the results were not three times, or even twice, as good. If you're looking for a reliable skincare product that will help to improve the appearance of your skin - helping to brighten and refine the appearance of pores - then Codage's Scrubbing Cream is a great option. However, personally I'd choose either of the other products to repurchase as I think that they represent better value for money which is something I look for in beauty products. Have you tried any of these exfoliators before? What sort of exfoliators do you like using? Are there any that you'd recommend I try out next?
Dec 4, 2015 - OTC Antihistamine For Dogs. I got this list from my vet. You can use this if your dog has allergies or is stung by a bee. Just DO NOT USE ANTIHISTAMINE that has DECONGESTANTS in them it's not good for them.
Having a bite-size project to do in between larger creations is always a welcome break, and these rainbow blocks were a cheery distraction. Harmony Circle has a new quilter, and this was her first request. I limited myself to the scrap drawer and was surprised to see that I had...
The beehive box is the most important part of the beehive. Langstroth hives and Warre Hives have components called a beehive box. It is the part of the hive that contains the frames for comb, brood, and honey. If a beekeeper is looking for beehive boxes for sale, they are typically looking for extra boxes for their beehive. Both of these types of hives are customizable in that you are able to add more beehive boxes to them in order to accommodate a larger colony. In the Langstroth hive extra beehive boxes are added to the top of the hive, while they are added to the bottom in the Warre hive. The extra boxes are called supers, and this is where the bees store honey. The other boxes are called brood boxes, and this is where to brood is. Bee Space In a Langstroth hive, the box is usually 19 ⅞ inches long, 16 ¼ inches wide, and 9 ⅝ inches in height. If you are building your own bee box it is important to follow the measurements exactly, as they take into account optimal bee space. Bee Space is the ideal space (⅜ inch) needed for bees to pass freely around the hive. If your hive contains more than ⅜ inch bee space, the bees will create sticky propolis and extra comb. This will make the hive difficult to inspect. Box measurements for a Warre Hive are smaller than that of a Langstroth, but the bee space theory still applies. And even though the Top Bar hive does not use frames like the Langstroth and Warre, it still uses bee space for it’s bars to ensure that the bees do not create comb glued to the inside of the box. Beehive Boxes for Sale While some beekeepers enjoy building beehive boxes, many lack the carpentry skills to build their own. In that case, you can find beehive boxes for sale. If you are lucky enough to have a beehive supply store in your area that would be a great place to start, but most people buy beehive boxes online. Websites like Amazon and Galena Farms have beehive boxes for sale both assembled and unassembled. While an unassembled box will take some carpentry know how to get together, it comes already measured and cut, so the hardest part is done for you. I personally like to buy my boxes from Galena Farms. Their beehive boxes are always very good quality with great craftsmanship. I also like that the Hoover Hives boxes are wax coated, so I don’t have to paint them. Plus, if you purchase directly from their website galenafarms.com, you can get 5% off your order by using code COMPLETEBEEHIVES. More on Galena Farms here. Parts of a Beehive In this article, we will focus on the brood box, also called the brood chamber, and the super, also called the honey super. Brood Box In a Langstroth beehive, the brood boxes are the boxes on the bottom of the hive. They are usually deep boxes and sit directly on top of the bottom board. As the name implies, the brood box is where the brood, or the eggs and larvae live. A deep box is used so the queen has lots of space to move around and lay eggs. Beehives typically have 1-2 brood boxes on them, depending on where the beekeeper lives and how often they inspect their hives. If you are not able to do frequent inspections, 2 brood boxes will give the bees lots of space to grow without swarming. Hoover Hives Brood Box This deep brood box comes with either 8 frames or 10 frames. Or, you can even choose to get it without frames if you prefer. Another option you have is to order it assembled or unassembled. This box is made out of fir wood and features dovetail joints to keep the boxes perfectly square. Fir was chosen for it’s durability, tight knit grain flow, and because it is less likely to warp in the rain. The hive parts are dipped into 100% natural beeswax, allowing the wax to soak into the wood. This protects the wood and gives it a beautiful, golden sheen. Honey Super A honey super is a box used to collect honey. Like in a regular hive box, the super also contains 8 or 10 frames. Basically, bees need a certain amount of wax and honey for their colony to survive winter. Luckily for us, extra honey will be stored in the super, for the beekeeper to extract and keep. Supers are the boxes that are placed near the top of the beehive, below the covers. Throughout the season, extra supers can be added to the hive as needed. The rule of thumb is to add another super once the previous one is at least 60% full. Most beehives will have 2-3 supers on them. The width and depth of the super is the same as standard Langstroth hive boxes. The difference is the height. While beehive come in 3 sizes (shallow, medium,and deep), the most common size for a super is medium. A deep super that is full of honey would be quite heavy for the average beekeeper to lift, while shallow supers do not yield as much honey. You can expect a medium honey super to weigh about 50 pounds, so much more manageable than a deep honey super, which would weigh 70 pounds. Hoover Hives Honey Super Hoover Hives makes a good quality honey super. This particular one is medium sized. Like all of Galena Farms beehives, it is made of quality fir in the USA. The wood of this box is coated with 100% beeswax, so no painting is necessary. The measurements of this super are consistent with industry standard dimensions. That means that you can us it interchangeably with most other Langstroth hives. Just keep in mind that you must use 10 frame parts with a 10 frame hive and vice versa for 8 frame. You can choose from either 8 or 10 frames and CellTech foundations made from food grade plastic, dipped in 100% beeswax. Beekeepers who have purchased this super have reported it being high quality and well made. Summary If you are looking for beehive boxes for sale you have several options. First, you must determine what type of beehive box you need. Do you need a box for your brood? Or do you need a super for honey? Then, you must choose what size beehive box to get – shallow, medium, or deep and 8 frame or 10 frame. Lastly, you must decided if you prefer an assembled or unassembled beehive box. Be sure to choose a beehive box for sale according to your own skill set. The good thing about Langstroth (and even Warre) hives is that they are customizable when it comes to beehive boxes, so you can experiment with size and configuration to find what works best for you. Related posts: Beehive Super Dimensions
Hello there, Beeeautiful! Welcome! Mr. Pinker went out to the bee yard the other day and checked the bees. He said one hive did not loo...
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