Hair has always been a canvas for self-expression, and what better way to showcase your personality and creativity than with bold and colorful hairstyles? If you're feeling adventurous and want to...

Want to let your cats outdoors, but keep them protected? Check out these tips and advice for building a your own catio.

As a fellow cat lover, I know how important it is to provide our feline friends with cozy and fun spaces to call their own. Have you ever struggled to find the perfect cat house

Recently I was at a craft show where they were selling bird feeders made from tea cups, and I knew it would be simple and inexpensive to make my own. I used some dollar store supplies to create an adorable and charming teacup bird feeder, and today I am sharing all the DIY details. All you need for this super-easy project is: a teacup, a spoon, a strong adhesive (like E-6000), twine, birdseed, and peanut butter or suet. Then: 1) Use the adhesive to attach the spoon to the cup, and let dry according to package directions. My glue suggested a 48 hour drying time. 2) Tie a piece of twine around the handle. 3) Fill the mug with a mixture of birdseed and peanut butter or suet. Isn't it a charming little bird feeder? I've already had some black capped chickadees visiting my new teacup bird feeder. It's such a darling little feeder, and it was extremely simple to make. You could make a bunch for gifts, or you could craft them for your own use. Will you be making one for the birds in your backyard? ♥ Gina (aka East Coast Mommy)

We hardly ever talk about the little goats, the 'kids' on here. Hence today I decided to give them a little blog time, just like I have done for the baby chicks in past posts. In particular today let us take a look at this awesome diy goat kid warmer idea I bumped into on

Rugged Hopper Bird Feeder is Made in the USA Ships directly from supplier This bird feeder has it all: good looks, rock-solid construction and legions of devoted human and avian fans. Includes beautiful easy-care and rugged PVC construction with an elegant verdigris roof and cast iron finial. The Skybox Cafe serves your birds with plenty of panache! Proudly hand-crafted by Heartwood in the USA.

As a proud parent of a cat, a pup, and a lot of plants, I’m a firm believer that family also includes our adorable pets. And family members deserve beautiful and functional surroundings.You might have already upgraded your own spaces with IKEA hacks for your bathroom, tiny kitchen, and closets, but if you haven’t given your cats their own IKEA hacks then it’s time to change that. After all, your cats can appreciate a good IKEA hack just as much as the next human.

Learn how to create a beautiful DIY bird bath with this step-by-step pictorial tutorial! All you will need is an oil pan, PVC pipe, pump, and plastic tub filled with water. Post contains affiliate links.

In "Birdhouses of the World," author Anne Schmauss offers readers a fascinating tour of birdhouses crafted all around the world.

Earlier this year I posted pictures of Shade and Piper's first play areas. Then it hit me that I should do another post about how the play areas / birdroom evolved. I kept pushing it back but now is as good a time as any to finally go forward with the post. The first rendition of the play area below is what Shade and her brother Nemo shared in the first two years of their life or so. This was a combination of my mom and mine's efforts. This was their specific playing area and eventually that grew to be a bit more elaborate. We mostly used boings, swings and homemade orb-like toys and hung regular toys from the structure. This came to change when I first moved in with the Boy. I had regrouped Shade and Piper's cage next to each other so I could create a common playing area above the cages, however Joey's addition a month later meant that a second play area was created above his cage as well. Shade and Piper's play area Joey's play area While still somewhat minimal, these play areas started to showcase bigger purchased pieces (such as the big white square hanging structures as well as the bigger swing with natural wood pieces) yet still included hand made items, in this case an improved atom-like play structure. Yet, to keep things affordable, the bigger purchased prices were purchased on sale - hunting for great sales was something I had started taking a serious liking to. As time went by, the play structure in that one bedroom apartment grew bigger. The addition of Petey also meant I had to provide larger play areas since he wouldn't tolerate the other birds too close to him. Additional items were added and towards the end of our stay there, the hanging gyms looked something like this. Above Shade and Piper's cages Above Joey and Petey's cages Again, most of what was hanging was either made by myself or was purchased on sale. I had also, around this time, purchased a Get-A-Grip net although I had no physical place to hang it at the time, it was 50% off so I couldn't say no.. After almost two years, we moved into a bigger apartment. I could now dedicate a whole room to the birds. Being able to move the cages there liberated the living room quite a bit, allowing us to have more elaborate playing areas for them in there too. But it doesn't quite match what was done in the birdroom itself. At first, it did look rather bare even if you consider that I included most of what used to be hanging in the other apartment (and included that Get-A-Grip net that I was more than happy to finally use), over a short period of time, it did flourish to something more entertaining for the birds I'm sure. First pictures of the "new" birdroom Recent video of the birdroom from earlier this year And while more of the things are now purchased than made nowadays, most of it has always been purchased on sale - it makes things easier and accumulating stuff to hang over the years also helps. I haven't shown pictures of my living room set-ups - mostly because I apparently haven't really taken any - but my philosophy of hunting down bargains also applied there - most of the Java play stands I have in there (all but one really) were discounted before I bought them. The Mother Pluckin' atoms, one was also purchased on sale, same as a Rosie swing that is hanging there. Things don't need to be expensive to be fun for the birds and I do believe they were as happy with the handmade stuff as they are with the purchased items, which really, are more for me as I don't have to spend time making them and the "finished" look is more polished something that appeals to me, NOT the birds. So get creative and hunt down the sales!

A couple years ago we started making bird seed ornaments for the kids' great-grandmother. She is one of those people who is hard to buy for, but really appreciates and loves homemade items from the

If you've got an indoor cat that wishes they lived out doors, build your own catio! It's a special space for your feline to safely roam.

Enjoy backyard bird watching! Easy DIY tips for food, water, shelter, migration and winter. Habitat design, hummingbirds and songbirds.

A DIY chicken jungle gym is a great way of keeping your flock happy and stress free. Build one by following our comprehensive DIY guide today!

Build a catio for your feline friend with these outdoor cat playground ideas.

To be honest I wasn't sure what to call this post...You see the bird feeders aren't really new and neither is the limb they are hanging on...So here's the story... Sadly the arbor that covered this pathway fell down last winter and we had to remove it... Which would have been OK, but my beloved bird feeders hung off of it and I SOOO ENJOY watching my birdies!!! In the winter I could see the feeders from my favorite chair as I enjoyed my morning coffee. My husband kindly put my feeders on a ladder so that I could still enjoy the birds.... but we had a problem... Autumn's chicks quickly discovered they could climb the ladder and help themselves to the food... Not only were they eating all the food but they were also chasing of all the Woodpeckers... In the spring, I go threw about a package of suet a day...This is truly AWESOME because so many of the birds... bring their young to my feeder... and I get to enjoy the show!!! Anyway my solution to this problem was simple and cheap!! :) I cut a limb off a tree that had fallen during one of our winter storms. The boys dug a hole and placed it in the ground for me. Now the birds have a perch that they are totally comfortable with and the chickens can't eat their food. Don't worry they still scratch the ground below the feeders picking up left overs. :) Well, thanks for stopping by!! I will be linking up to many of the party's on my side bar...Check them out...They are full of great ideas!! Denise

On my way back from a weekend away I saw this great idea at Brighton train station… It got me thinking of all the different things you could do using an old tyre- and prompted m…

Have you ever noticed your cat eyeing a high shelf, plotting their next great adventure? Cat bridges could be the perfect solution for enriching your feline friend's environment. Let's dive into some fantastic cat bridge

Portable play gyms, stands and perches custom made for your bird. Sizes for all parrots including budgie parakeets, cockatiels, conures, amazons.

Chicken Playground: This spring I purchased 15 chickens and although It feels like they arrived just yesterday, they are now 6 weeks old. Now that they are a little older if I have to keep them in their run, they get bored very quickly so I decided they needed a playgr…

Chickens are a very Vashon thing. So many people here have their own flocks–I know of at least four flocks all within a rooster’s crow of our house. We’ve been working on adding s…

This post is long and long overdue. I built a chicken tractor over the spring. What's a chicken tractor you ask? Well that depends on if you ask a green tractor chicken or a red tractor chicken... Most people look at me funny when I say I have a chicken tractor. I think they imagine a dozen chickens tethered to a plow or something. A select few probably imagine an actual chicken driving a tractor. If you fall into the latter camp, I would love to know what you think a cock fight is. Leave a comment down below. A chicken tractor is simply a chicken coop and run that can be moved. Most people build the tractor with the bottom open to the grass and move it every couple days. This allows the chickens to graze fresh pasture and bugs while being protected from predators. I bought three 4 ft x 16 ft cattle panels from our local agriculture store. I am surprised I didn't get pulled over driving like this. Make sure you have some pads and good ratchet straps if you are going to attempt something like this. DISCLAIMER: I built this chicken tractor too heavy and it is a pain to move. If you are going to follow the design in this blog you should seriously consider moving it with a riding mower, instead of by hand. Material list: ( I am sure I am missing something, but this should be most of the supplies used.) 3 - 4ft x 16ft cattle panels. 2 - Pressure treated 12ft 2x4's. 2 - Pressure treated 8ft 2x4's. A lot of untreated 2x4's. I seriously went back twice to get more. Maybe a dozen or so. 1 - 4ft x 8ft x 1/2 inch plywood. 3 - 4ft x 8ft x 1/4 inch plywood. 3 rolls of 25ft hardware cloth with 1/2 inch squares. 2 rolls of 25ft chicken wire. 3 - 2ft x 8ft galvanized steel corrugated metal roofing sheets. 1 Box of "U" Grip-Rite staples. 1 Box of self-tapping metal screws. 1 Box of neoprene washers for self-tapping screws. 1 Box of exterior screws. 8 - 6 inch lag bolts with washers and nuts. Metal cutting blade for circular saw. Spool of galvanized wire. Exterior paint. Ratchet straps Various power tools. Everything I read about building chicken tractors said "DO NOT BUILD IT TOO HEAVY". I figured I could build the tractor on sleds and pull it around the yard with no problem. Boy was I wrong. If you actually keep the finished weight of your tractor manageable, you could move it around the yard on sleds. Before I put the coop in, I could pull it around easily by hand. Once you have the ends of your 12ft 2x4's rounded off, you can now attach the cattle panels. I overlapped the panels to fit inside the runner boards.You can make your tractor longer or shorter than this, its up to you. I used Grip-Rite staples to attach the cattle panels to the 2x4's. I ended up going back and putting two more staples in each square. I measured half way down the 2x4 and lined the cattle panel up so it is in the center of the 2x4. You will want some help bending the cattle panels. Once I had them in a "U", I used ratchet straps to hold it in place. I then attached the 8ft 2x4's to hold it together. Make sure you have the sides you stapled the cattle panels to, facing in. You don't want the panels pushing out against the staples on the outside. I used two, 6 inch lag bolts on each corner. Notice I cut out a 1 1/2 inch section on the 8ft 2x4's , leaving a 1/2 inch on the top. This is so when you move the tractor, the front and back boards are not dragging on the ground. Make sure you do this to both sides on the front and back 8ft 2x4's. Here is the frame all bolted together. At this point it was easy to move around on the sleds. If you didn't want a coop in your tractor, I think you could move this by hand pretty easily, even once all the hardware cloth and chicken wire is attached. Here is my solution to crafty critters like racoons. Racoons have been known to figure out slide locks and other closing mechanisms. To my knowledge, they haven't figured out carabiners yet. I will let you know if they do. One of the hardest parts of building the tractor was cutting the plywood to fit on the ends of the coop. I cut it perfectly round, then had to adjust it multiple times to get it to fit. An easy way to get a perfect half circle is to tie a string the length of the radius of the half circle you want, to a pencil. Place the open end of the string in the middle of your board and pull the string taut. Move the pencil to the left and right until you have your half circle drawn. I spent a lot of time "shaving" off wood to get the ends of the coop to fit. I didn't want to go to far, you can't add wood back on, so I had to cut a little, go check the fit, and cut some more. You can use whatever you want for a roof. I chose metal for longevity and I think it looks cool. I bought a metal cutting blade for my circular saw and cut these 8 ft galvanized panels in half. I then screwed them together using self driving metal screws with water tight washers. I overlapped each panel so water will run down the outside and not leak in. Make sure the overlaps are going the right way when you put the roof on. Here is a close up of a self driving screw with rubber / metal washer. Buy a magnetic bit for your drill, it will be worth every penny. You should end up with something like this. Some people use plastic tarps for chicken tractor roofs. That would make a much lighter roof, but it would need to be replaced every couple years or so. I ripped a lot of 2x4's to make this tractor. I attached the roof to three ripped 2x4's that I ran at the height I wanted the bottom of the coop to be. I then screwed the roof into more ripped 2x4's along the inside of the roof. I off set these in about 2 inches on each side. I used these to attach the front and back of the coop walls. The floor of the coop is then screwed into the ripped 2x4's on the bottom. You want to use the 1/2 inch plywood for the floor of the coop. You will want to do most of your interior work on the coop before you attach the final wall. In my attempt to keep the weight of the chicken tractor down, I used very thin plywood and ripped a bunch of 2x4's to build the nest boxes. I ended up going with 6 nest boxes for my 16 laying hens. Each box is approximately 12 inch x 12 inch at the opening with head room once they step into the box. I designed a small incline you can see in this pic on the bottom of the nest boxes. This will hopefully make the eggs roll back to the collection door. Here I am installing the nest boxes. I ran some more ripped 2x4's on the floor of the coop to screw the front and back wall into. Make sure these are set back as far as the ripped 2x4's the roof is screwed into so the walls fit straight. The nest box is screwed into the ripped 2x4 in the back. I had to put another ripped 2x4 under the front of the nest box to keep my slope. Make sure your nest box roof has a steep pitch on it, or your chickens will hang out on top of it. Dara and my sister helped attach the hardware cloth and chicken wire to the cattle panels. You can use plastic zip ties for this if you want. I opted to go with a more permanent solution and used galvanized wire. Make sure you attach the hardware cloth securely and not allow any part of it to be able to be pulled away from the cattle panels. Critters that want to eat your chickens are diligent and crafty. I decided to go up the cattle panels 4 ft with hardware cloth. I used chicken wire, which is cheaper, to cover the top. The main reason I chose hardware cloth is; raccoons have been known to put their arm through chicken wire and kill chickens if they get too close to the wire. If a raccoon climbed the hardware cloth to put his arm into the chicken wire, he would not be able to grab any chickens. Here is the interior of the coop all finished. I put a temporary board over the entrances to the next boxes. If you are raising your birds from chicks, you want to keep them out of the next boxes until they are ready to lay. Once I attached the front coop wall, I cut out this entrance and used a larger piece of plywood as a door. I want to replace it with plexiglass one day so I can spy on them. You can see the hinge and door on the bottom right of the pic. I harvested some saplings for the roosts. You want them to be about 2 inches wide. Because I made the coop to heavy to pull on the sleds, I decided I would put wheels on it to move it. Another mistake. Drilling through 1/4 inch steel is hard, I went through 4 bits drilling all the holes. The wheels are on the bottom of the steel bars. The holes above them are where they get attached to the tractor. This creates an offset so when you lift the steel bar handle, the coop raises off the ground about a foot. In principle, this is a great idea. When I actually tried to move the coop, it wouldn't budge. The wheels are to small and narrow for all the weight of the tractor. I plan on taking these off of the chicken tractor and using them on a much lighter tractor for broiler birds next year. Sorry about the bad photos, I can only move the tractor at night when the chickens have gone up to roost. This pic shows how the wheels raise the tractor off of the ground. I have a small hole drilled in the steel bar where that piece of 2x4 is. Once I have the bar perpendicular to the ground, I put a nail through the bar and into the 2x4 to hold it in place. The solution I finally came up with to move this beast was to use the wheels to raise the tractor off of the ground, and then lay 3 inch PVC pipes under it. The tractor is movable at this point. I am not saying it is easy, just movable. You have to stop after you pull the tractor over the PVC and reposition the PVC to move the tractor again. A real pain in the cloaca. Here is the tractor all done except for painting the coop walls. I moved it around the yard every three days or so for about 3 months. A post coming soon will explain why I stopped moving it and what I did with it. Learn from my mistakes and either use these plans to make a stationary coop, or build a lighter version that can be moved by hand. If you have a lawn tractor you may be able to move a coop like this. Hope this helps. Leave a comment if you have any questions or if I left something out you would like to know about.

Chickens are a very Vashon thing. So many people here have their own flocks–I know of at least four flocks all within a rooster’s crow of our house. We’ve been working on adding s…

Chicken Playground: This spring I purchased 15 chickens and although It feels like they arrived just yesterday, they are now 6 weeks old. Now that they are a little older if I have to keep them in their run, they get bored very quickly so I decided they needed a playgr…

When it's time to update your home, don't forget your beloved fur-baby! Here are some easy (and cheap!) DIY dog houses that you can make using purchased plans, pallets, cardboard, and more. Most of these DIY dog houses can be used outdoors and even through the winter! You will love these DIY dog house ideas!

Have you ever noticed your cat eyeing a high shelf, plotting their next great adventure? Cat bridges could be the perfect solution for enriching your feline friend's environment. Let's dive into some fantastic cat bridge