1st English edition pub. 1886. cf. Pataky, v.1, p. 155

Descubra a receita de Souflé de chuchu maravilhoso para fazer em 20 minutos. Em uma panela derreta a margarina e refogue a cebola. Acrescente a farinha de trigo e misture até que se incorpore na margarina com a cebola. Em uma vasilha misture o leite,o creme de leite,o queijo parmesão e as 2 gemas (reserve a clara). Acrescente a mistura do leite na…

Você sabia que tamarindo é bom para o figado?

Como fazer esse bolo em versões mais saudáveis, que não deixam de ser saborosas:

1st English edition pub. 1886. cf. Pataky, v.1, p. 155

Macarons

It's Friday and it means a new part of instructions for the Cecelia Stitch along arrived! Hope you managed to complete the first part of the Stitch Along where we worked the stem and the leaves. If you didn't read it yet, then follow the link below. Cecelia Rose Part 1 There weren't many questions regarding the first part of instructions, so I can just hope that everything was clear and you've been silently working on the design. If you have any questions after this part of the stitch along, don't hesitate to chime in the comments section or message me through the contact form in the right sidebar. As for today, we will start working on petals and we are going to use long and short stitch and split stitch again. Here's the lesson for long & short stitch in case you don't know what it is. And here's split stitch tutorial. Although, if you completed the first part of instructions, you should know by now what these stitches are. A quick reminder: please, pay attention to the number of strands of floss that I mention, and also I'm going to mention the colors using #1-10 referring to the list of DMC thread in the pattern you received. Which means if I say #3 it means the DMC thread under this number in the list. Now, shall we start? The main “body” of the petal is stitched using long & short stitch technique, and only 1 strand of floss. We start with the petal situated right above the stem. We take thread #2 from the list in the pattern. We make an outline of a petal using split stitch – only three sides, without the base. Alternatively, you may use split back stitch, but be aware that it is more thread consuming. Don't worry if the split stitch doesn't look fantastic, because it will be covered soon. It only has a functional use here, not bearing any decorative purpose. Now we make guiding stitches for the first row of long and short stitches. You can also mark the direction of stitches using a water erasable marker or a pencil. But I still prefer having guiding stitches, they add some confidence to me. By the way, did you notice that the design is upside down as I'm working? You will find it much easier to work these stitches if you rotate your hoop so that your petal is placed vertically and you are able to work from the top downwards. Complete the first row of stitches, filling the gaps between the guiding stitches. The length of stitches is approximately the same, I don't recommend making really short ones at this stage. Keep them about the same length, because they will be covered soon by the second row. Notice how the stitches wrap a little the corners of the petal. Adding the second row of stitches – color #3 from the list in the pattern. Try to keep the direction of your stitches here the same as in the first row. At this point, the length of your stitches can vary quite a lot – make some shorter, some longer, it will help blend the colors better. Also, take a look at the left and right edges of the petal – they are already cozily wrapped in stitches of the same color. Now we take color #5 and make the third layer of stitches. This makes our gradient complete. If you are going to use thread substitutes for this design, then try to find 3 colors which are very close to each other, so that the transition of color works better. But that's not all! Now we will add an extra bit of color! Take thread #4 (1 strand again), and make 10-15 stitches between the second and third layers. If you are going to use thread substitutes, then go for a color that is close to #3 in “temperature” (not darker and not lighter), but has a different shade. For example, my gradient is in pinkish tones, but this extra bit is peachy. This task may be more difficult than it seems because you need to make sure that all the stitches from up downwards are in the same direction. Now, the folded parts of the petals are stitched using split stitch in 2 strands of thread #1 from the list. Work it in “circles”: stitch the outline first and then continue moving inwards, along the already stitched lines. The petal is complete! If you want, you can work all your petals in the way I demonstrated: main body + folded part and then move to the next petal. Otherwise, maybe you want to stitch first the main body of each petal in long and short stitch and then stitch the folded parts for all of the petals. It's really up to you, it won't affect the final result, so feel free to do as you like. Second and third petal. Fourth and fifth petal. You can change the order of working the petals according to your liking, though. I just wanted to start with the straightest petal for demonstration purposes, but normally, I'd start with a petal that lies further in the background and gradually move to the front. This is where we end Part 2 of the instructions. Hope everything was clear? The petals might take a longer time to complete, compared to the previous part, so try to calculate your time so that you finish by the next Friday. Let's all do our best! If you feel confused you might want to read the previous needle painting stitch along to have a better idea of how long and short stitch works. I already mentioned it in the previous post, but I was sincerely SO happy to see the current results that some of you posted or sent me privately! Keep up the good work, you're all doing great! Send me your works or drop the pictures in the comments section below if you want to get extra tips, or post on IG using hashtag #ceceliarose_sa, I will check it! Part 3 The pattern is now in Resource Library. You will get a password after signing up to the Newsletter, save it for further use!

Bonecas de pano, lindas de viver. Não consegui o esquema ainda. Encontrei na Internet Live

Farofa é um acompanhamento maravilhoso para qualquer tipo de carne. Experimente com um lombo, com um peru ou frango, um pernil ou até num churrasco: vai ser sucesso na certa! Essas eu tenho feito d…

It's Friday and it means a new part of instructions for the Cecelia Stitch along arrived! Hope you managed to complete the first part of the Stitch Along where we worked the stem and the leaves. If you didn't read it yet, then follow the link below. Cecelia Rose Part 1 There weren't many questions regarding the first part of instructions, so I can just hope that everything was clear and you've been silently working on the design. If you have any questions after this part of the stitch along, don't hesitate to chime in the comments section or message me through the contact form in the right sidebar. As for today, we will start working on petals and we are going to use long and short stitch and split stitch again. Here's the lesson for long & short stitch in case you don't know what it is. And here's split stitch tutorial. Although, if you completed the first part of instructions, you should know by now what these stitches are. A quick reminder: please, pay attention to the number of strands of floss that I mention, and also I'm going to mention the colors using #1-10 referring to the list of DMC thread in the pattern you received. Which means if I say #3 it means the DMC thread under this number in the list. Now, shall we start? The main “body” of the petal is stitched using long & short stitch technique, and only 1 strand of floss. We start with the petal situated right above the stem. We take thread #2 from the list in the pattern. We make an outline of a petal using split stitch – only three sides, without the base. Alternatively, you may use split back stitch, but be aware that it is more thread consuming. Don't worry if the split stitch doesn't look fantastic, because it will be covered soon. It only has a functional use here, not bearing any decorative purpose. Now we make guiding stitches for the first row of long and short stitches. You can also mark the direction of stitches using a water erasable marker or a pencil. But I still prefer having guiding stitches, they add some confidence to me. By the way, did you notice that the design is upside down as I'm working? You will find it much easier to work these stitches if you rotate your hoop so that your petal is placed vertically and you are able to work from the top downwards. Complete the first row of stitches, filling the gaps between the guiding stitches. The length of stitches is approximately the same, I don't recommend making really short ones at this stage. Keep them about the same length, because they will be covered soon by the second row. Notice how the stitches wrap a little the corners of the petal. Adding the second row of stitches – color #3 from the list in the pattern. Try to keep the direction of your stitches here the same as in the first row. At this point, the length of your stitches can vary quite a lot – make some shorter, some longer, it will help blend the colors better. Also, take a look at the left and right edges of the petal – they are already cozily wrapped in stitches of the same color. Now we take color #5 and make the third layer of stitches. This makes our gradient complete. If you are going to use thread substitutes for this design, then try to find 3 colors which are very close to each other, so that the transition of color works better. But that's not all! Now we will add an extra bit of color! Take thread #4 (1 strand again), and make 10-15 stitches between the second and third layers. If you are going to use thread substitutes, then go for a color that is close to #3 in “temperature” (not darker and not lighter), but has a different shade. For example, my gradient is in pinkish tones, but this extra bit is peachy. This task may be more difficult than it seems because you need to make sure that all the stitches from up downwards are in the same direction. Now, the folded parts of the petals are stitched using split stitch in 2 strands of thread #1 from the list. Work it in “circles”: stitch the outline first and then continue moving inwards, along the already stitched lines. The petal is complete! If you want, you can work all your petals in the way I demonstrated: main body + folded part and then move to the next petal. Otherwise, maybe you want to stitch first the main body of each petal in long and short stitch and then stitch the folded parts for all of the petals. It's really up to you, it won't affect the final result, so feel free to do as you like. Second and third petal. Fourth and fifth petal. You can change the order of working the petals according to your liking, though. I just wanted to start with the straightest petal for demonstration purposes, but normally, I'd start with a petal that lies further in the background and gradually move to the front. This is where we end Part 2 of the instructions. Hope everything was clear? The petals might take a longer time to complete, compared to the previous part, so try to calculate your time so that you finish by the next Friday. Let's all do our best! If you feel confused you might want to read the previous needle painting stitch along to have a better idea of how long and short stitch works. I already mentioned it in the previous post, but I was sincerely SO happy to see the current results that some of you posted or sent me privately! Keep up the good work, you're all doing great! Send me your works or drop the pictures in the comments section below if you want to get extra tips, or post on IG using hashtag #ceceliarose_sa, I will check it! Part 3 The pattern is now in Resource Library. You will get a password after signing up to the Newsletter, save it for further use!

Como fazer esse bolo em versões mais saudáveis, que não deixam de ser saborosas:

Baby shoes can be a wonderful present to make for the next new baby in your life. Who knows — they might even become a family heirloom.

Blogue com receitas variadas, muitas fotos de comida e apontamentos de viagem.

Dressed circa early 1930's, in an exquisite blue cotton lawn from that same time period, printed with little kitties chasing balls of yarn. As the dress has little polka dots, I used a dottened Swiss to echo that theme; and the Valenciennes lace also has little dots. Her dress collar and sleeve ruffles are organdy edged in blue, from the same toddler dress ca 1930 as the dress fabric. Dress closures are tiny antique white glass buttons, and worked thread loops. The pinafore closes with the waistline silk ribbon tied in a bow.

Anjinha de feltro com molde - Ateliê Paty Belas Festas Baixar moldes para feltro de boneca anjinha.

It's Friday and it means a new part of instructions for the Cecelia Stitch along arrived! Hope you managed to complete the first part of the Stitch Along where we worked the stem and the leaves. If you didn't read it yet, then follow the link below. Cecelia Rose Part 1 There weren't many questions regarding the first part of instructions, so I can just hope that everything was clear and you've been silently working on the design. If you have any questions after this part of the stitch along, don't hesitate to chime in the comments section or message me through the contact form in the right sidebar. As for today, we will start working on petals and we are going to use long and short stitch and split stitch again. Here's the lesson for long & short stitch in case you don't know what it is. And here's split stitch tutorial. Although, if you completed the first part of instructions, you should know by now what these stitches are. A quick reminder: please, pay attention to the number of strands of floss that I mention, and also I'm going to mention the colors using #1-10 referring to the list of DMC thread in the pattern you received. Which means if I say #3 it means the DMC thread under this number in the list. Now, shall we start? The main “body” of the petal is stitched using long & short stitch technique, and only 1 strand of floss. We start with the petal situated right above the stem. We take thread #2 from the list in the pattern. We make an outline of a petal using split stitch – only three sides, without the base. Alternatively, you may use split back stitch, but be aware that it is more thread consuming. Don't worry if the split stitch doesn't look fantastic, because it will be covered soon. It only has a functional use here, not bearing any decorative purpose. Now we make guiding stitches for the first row of long and short stitches. You can also mark the direction of stitches using a water erasable marker or a pencil. But I still prefer having guiding stitches, they add some confidence to me. By the way, did you notice that the design is upside down as I'm working? You will find it much easier to work these stitches if you rotate your hoop so that your petal is placed vertically and you are able to work from the top downwards. Complete the first row of stitches, filling the gaps between the guiding stitches. The length of stitches is approximately the same, I don't recommend making really short ones at this stage. Keep them about the same length, because they will be covered soon by the second row. Notice how the stitches wrap a little the corners of the petal. Adding the second row of stitches – color #3 from the list in the pattern. Try to keep the direction of your stitches here the same as in the first row. At this point, the length of your stitches can vary quite a lot – make some shorter, some longer, it will help blend the colors better. Also, take a look at the left and right edges of the petal – they are already cozily wrapped in stitches of the same color. Now we take color #5 and make the third layer of stitches. This makes our gradient complete. If you are going to use thread substitutes for this design, then try to find 3 colors which are very close to each other, so that the transition of color works better. But that's not all! Now we will add an extra bit of color! Take thread #4 (1 strand again), and make 10-15 stitches between the second and third layers. If you are going to use thread substitutes, then go for a color that is close to #3 in “temperature” (not darker and not lighter), but has a different shade. For example, my gradient is in pinkish tones, but this extra bit is peachy. This task may be more difficult than it seems because you need to make sure that all the stitches from up downwards are in the same direction. Now, the folded parts of the petals are stitched using split stitch in 2 strands of thread #1 from the list. Work it in “circles”: stitch the outline first and then continue moving inwards, along the already stitched lines. The petal is complete! If you want, you can work all your petals in the way I demonstrated: main body + folded part and then move to the next petal. Otherwise, maybe you want to stitch first the main body of each petal in long and short stitch and then stitch the folded parts for all of the petals. It's really up to you, it won't affect the final result, so feel free to do as you like. Second and third petal. Fourth and fifth petal. You can change the order of working the petals according to your liking, though. I just wanted to start with the straightest petal for demonstration purposes, but normally, I'd start with a petal that lies further in the background and gradually move to the front. This is where we end Part 2 of the instructions. Hope everything was clear? The petals might take a longer time to complete, compared to the previous part, so try to calculate your time so that you finish by the next Friday. Let's all do our best! If you feel confused you might want to read the previous needle painting stitch along to have a better idea of how long and short stitch works. I already mentioned it in the previous post, but I was sincerely SO happy to see the current results that some of you posted or sent me privately! Keep up the good work, you're all doing great! Send me your works or drop the pictures in the comments section below if you want to get extra tips, or post on IG using hashtag #ceceliarose_sa, I will check it! Part 3 The pattern is now in Resource Library. You will get a password after signing up to the Newsletter, save it for further use!

Ideias de tema para festa de menino sem usar personagens!

Pap´s, moldes, dicas e muito mais... Delicadezas que deixam a vida ainda mais bonita, prática e criativa.

ISBN978-4-529-04536-0 Blogged

Olá, amiga (o)! Hoje quero falar com você sobre o PONTO BAIXO E SUAS VARIAÇÕES. O Ponto Baixo é um dos pontos básicos do Crochê. Fiz um VÍDEO para te mostrar como faço as viradas de carreiras dos meus trabalhos em PONTO BAIXO (pb) e também como inicio o crochê no fio de CORRENTINHAS (corr). Ele é ideal para as iniciantes... 1 - PONTO BAIXO NO CROCHÊ CONVENCIONAL 👈; 3 FORMAS DE INICIAR CARREIRAS DE PONTOS BAIXOS: VÍDEO DO PONTO BAIXO: ATENÇÃO! No post do Gorro de Crochê para Bebê com Tabela de Medidas, eu mostro COMO INICIAR E FECHAR AS CARREIRAS DOS CROCHÊS CIRCULARES DE FORMA PERFEITA, inclusive com Pontos Baixos (pb): "A FORMA TRADICIONAL: Quando o trabalho é em Pontos Altos (pa), tradicionalmente iniciamos com 3 Correntinhas (corr) e fechamos com 1 Ponto Baixíssimo (pbx). Dessa forma as 3 Correntes (corr) pulam para fora da malha do crochê e a emenda fica muito perceptível e feia. A FORMA IMPERCEPTÍVEL: Para um trabalho em Pontos Altos (pa), inicie com: 2 Correntes ao invés de 3 Correntinhas (corr) e Feche com 1 Ponto Baixíssimo (pbx), inserindo agulha no penúltimo ponto e não no ultimo. Esse Ponto Baixíssimo (pbx) se encaixará no topo das duas Correntinhas (corr) iniciais, completando a altura dos 3 pontos e a emenda fica imperceptível, limpa e linda,como você pode constatar na foto a seguir". Essa técnica se aplica a todos os pontos: Se o seu trabalho for em Ponto Alto Triplo (pat), o normal seria iniciar com 4 Correntinhas (corr)... Para que fique imperceptível inicie com 3 Correntinhas (corr). Se for em Meio Ponto Alto (mpa), o normal seria iniciar com 2 Correntinhas (corr). Para que fique imperceptível diminua para 1 Correntinhas (corr). Se for em Ponto Baixo (pb), o tradicional seria iniciar com 2 Correntinhas. Para que fique imperceptível diminua 1 Correntinha (corr). Teça apenas uma Correntinha, pule o ultimo Ponto Baixo (pb) da carreira anterior e comece a tecer no penúltimo Ponto Baixo (pb). Quando for fechar a Carreira pule a Correntinha (corr) e insira a agulha no Ponto Baixo (pb). Sempre diminua uma Correntinha da altura do ponto que você for usar. E não se esqueça que para fechar a carreira (carr) faça um Ponto Baixíssimo, pule a correntinha e insira a agulha no 1º ponto que vier a seguir dela ou delas. Trabalhando assim, o CROCHÊ CIRCULAR, seu trabalho será diferenciado e mais valorizado, com certeza". 2 - PONTO BAIXO DOBRADO 👈; VÍDEOS PONTO BAIXO DOBRADO: 3 - PONTO BAIXO COM LAÇADA (ideal para acabamentos); VÍDEO PONTO BAIXO COM LAÇADA: 4 - PONTO BAIXO TORCIDO (Ponto Caranguejo Tecido Para Frente); VÍDEO PONTO BAIXO TORCIDO (PONTO CARANGUEJO TECIDO PRA FRENTE): 5 - PONTO BAIXO ALONGADO . VÍDEO PONTO BAIXO ALONGADO: 6 - PONTO BAIXO SOBREPOSTO ou PONTO BAIXO DE SUPERFÍCIE 👈 7 - PONTO BAIXO EM RELEVO 👈 (pegando pela frente e pegando por trás); 8 - PONTO BAIXO PEGANDO NA PRIMEIRA ALÇA DO PONTO DA CARREIRA ANTERIOR 👈 (ALÇA DA FRENTE) 9 - PONTO BAIXO PEGANDO NA ALÇA DE FORA 👈 (OU DETRÁS): Essa maneira de tecer o Ponto Baixo, pegando apenas na alça de fora, tanto na carreira de ida quanto de volta, resulta no PONTO BAIXO SANFONADO. Um ponto excelente para cós de saias, golas, barras, etc. 10 - PONTO CARANGUEJO 👈 (Ponto Baixo tecido de ré) 11 - PONTOS BAIXOS FECHADOS JUNTOS OU PONTOS BAIXOS PARA SE FAZER DIMINUIÇÕES: DIMINUIÇÕES NO CORPO DOS TECIDOS DE CROCHÊ: DIMINUIÇÕES NAS LATERAIS: 12 - PONTOS BAIXOS EM "V" OU PONTOS BAIXOS PARA SE FAZER AUMENTOS OU: 2 PONTOS BAIXOS NO MESMO PONTO DE BASE: 13 - PONTO BAIXO COM ARGOLA http://falandodecrochet.blogspot.com.br/2011/10/tapete-de-croche-ponto-argola.html VÍDEO DE COMO TECER O PONTO BAIXO COM ARGOLA: BONS CROCHÊS! Abraços com carinho, Sônia Maria Falando de Crochet

Összeállt pár "Horgoló angyal", köztük én is, akik október 17-től, szerdánként, 10 héten át, e...

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Festa Patrulha Canina! Bolo, Lembrancinhas, decoração e outros detalhes que fazem toda a diferença na hora do aniversário das crianças.

It's Friday and it means a new part of instructions for the Cecelia Stitch along arrived! Hope you managed to complete the first part of the Stitch Along where we worked the stem and the leaves. If you didn't read it yet, then follow the link below. Cecelia Rose Part 1 There weren't many questions regarding the first part of instructions, so I can just hope that everything was clear and you've been silently working on the design. If you have any questions after this part of the stitch along, don't hesitate to chime in the comments section or message me through the contact form in the right sidebar. As for today, we will start working on petals and we are going to use long and short stitch and split stitch again. Here's the lesson for long & short stitch in case you don't know what it is. And here's split stitch tutorial. Although, if you completed the first part of instructions, you should know by now what these stitches are. A quick reminder: please, pay attention to the number of strands of floss that I mention, and also I'm going to mention the colors using #1-10 referring to the list of DMC thread in the pattern you received. Which means if I say #3 it means the DMC thread under this number in the list. Now, shall we start? The main “body” of the petal is stitched using long & short stitch technique, and only 1 strand of floss. We start with the petal situated right above the stem. We take thread #2 from the list in the pattern. We make an outline of a petal using split stitch – only three sides, without the base. Alternatively, you may use split back stitch, but be aware that it is more thread consuming. Don't worry if the split stitch doesn't look fantastic, because it will be covered soon. It only has a functional use here, not bearing any decorative purpose. Now we make guiding stitches for the first row of long and short stitches. You can also mark the direction of stitches using a water erasable marker or a pencil. But I still prefer having guiding stitches, they add some confidence to me. By the way, did you notice that the design is upside down as I'm working? You will find it much easier to work these stitches if you rotate your hoop so that your petal is placed vertically and you are able to work from the top downwards. Complete the first row of stitches, filling the gaps between the guiding stitches. The length of stitches is approximately the same, I don't recommend making really short ones at this stage. Keep them about the same length, because they will be covered soon by the second row. Notice how the stitches wrap a little the corners of the petal. Adding the second row of stitches – color #3 from the list in the pattern. Try to keep the direction of your stitches here the same as in the first row. At this point, the length of your stitches can vary quite a lot – make some shorter, some longer, it will help blend the colors better. Also, take a look at the left and right edges of the petal – they are already cozily wrapped in stitches of the same color. Now we take color #5 and make the third layer of stitches. This makes our gradient complete. If you are going to use thread substitutes for this design, then try to find 3 colors which are very close to each other, so that the transition of color works better. But that's not all! Now we will add an extra bit of color! Take thread #4 (1 strand again), and make 10-15 stitches between the second and third layers. If you are going to use thread substitutes, then go for a color that is close to #3 in “temperature” (not darker and not lighter), but has a different shade. For example, my gradient is in pinkish tones, but this extra bit is peachy. This task may be more difficult than it seems because you need to make sure that all the stitches from up downwards are in the same direction. Now, the folded parts of the petals are stitched using split stitch in 2 strands of thread #1 from the list. Work it in “circles”: stitch the outline first and then continue moving inwards, along the already stitched lines. The petal is complete! If you want, you can work all your petals in the way I demonstrated: main body + folded part and then move to the next petal. Otherwise, maybe you want to stitch first the main body of each petal in long and short stitch and then stitch the folded parts for all of the petals. It's really up to you, it won't affect the final result, so feel free to do as you like. Second and third petal. Fourth and fifth petal. You can change the order of working the petals according to your liking, though. I just wanted to start with the straightest petal for demonstration purposes, but normally, I'd start with a petal that lies further in the background and gradually move to the front. This is where we end Part 2 of the instructions. Hope everything was clear? The petals might take a longer time to complete, compared to the previous part, so try to calculate your time so that you finish by the next Friday. Let's all do our best! If you feel confused you might want to read the previous needle painting stitch along to have a better idea of how long and short stitch works. I already mentioned it in the previous post, but I was sincerely SO happy to see the current results that some of you posted or sent me privately! Keep up the good work, you're all doing great! Send me your works or drop the pictures in the comments section below if you want to get extra tips, or post on IG using hashtag #ceceliarose_sa, I will check it! Part 3 The pattern is now in Resource Library. You will get a password after signing up to the Newsletter, save it for further use!

Blog de trabajos de María José Veira. Patchwork, calceta, ropita, muñecos, capotas, manteles, cortinas, bordados, ganchillo. Labores artesanales.

It's Friday and it means a new part of instructions for the Cecelia Stitch along arrived! Hope you managed to complete the first part of the Stitch Along where we worked the stem and the leaves. If you didn't read it yet, then follow the link below. Cecelia Rose Part 1 There weren't many questions regarding the first part of instructions, so I can just hope that everything was clear and you've been silently working on the design. If you have any questions after this part of the stitch along, don't hesitate to chime in the comments section or message me through the contact form in the right sidebar. As for today, we will start working on petals and we are going to use long and short stitch and split stitch again. Here's the lesson for long & short stitch in case you don't know what it is. And here's split stitch tutorial. Although, if you completed the first part of instructions, you should know by now what these stitches are. A quick reminder: please, pay attention to the number of strands of floss that I mention, and also I'm going to mention the colors using #1-10 referring to the list of DMC thread in the pattern you received. Which means if I say #3 it means the DMC thread under this number in the list. Now, shall we start? The main “body” of the petal is stitched using long & short stitch technique, and only 1 strand of floss. We start with the petal situated right above the stem. We take thread #2 from the list in the pattern. We make an outline of a petal using split stitch – only three sides, without the base. Alternatively, you may use split back stitch, but be aware that it is more thread consuming. Don't worry if the split stitch doesn't look fantastic, because it will be covered soon. It only has a functional use here, not bearing any decorative purpose. Now we make guiding stitches for the first row of long and short stitches. You can also mark the direction of stitches using a water erasable marker or a pencil. But I still prefer having guiding stitches, they add some confidence to me. By the way, did you notice that the design is upside down as I'm working? You will find it much easier to work these stitches if you rotate your hoop so that your petal is placed vertically and you are able to work from the top downwards. Complete the first row of stitches, filling the gaps between the guiding stitches. The length of stitches is approximately the same, I don't recommend making really short ones at this stage. Keep them about the same length, because they will be covered soon by the second row. Notice how the stitches wrap a little the corners of the petal. Adding the second row of stitches – color #3 from the list in the pattern. Try to keep the direction of your stitches here the same as in the first row. At this point, the length of your stitches can vary quite a lot – make some shorter, some longer, it will help blend the colors better. Also, take a look at the left and right edges of the petal – they are already cozily wrapped in stitches of the same color. Now we take color #5 and make the third layer of stitches. This makes our gradient complete. If you are going to use thread substitutes for this design, then try to find 3 colors which are very close to each other, so that the transition of color works better. But that's not all! Now we will add an extra bit of color! Take thread #4 (1 strand again), and make 10-15 stitches between the second and third layers. If you are going to use thread substitutes, then go for a color that is close to #3 in “temperature” (not darker and not lighter), but has a different shade. For example, my gradient is in pinkish tones, but this extra bit is peachy. This task may be more difficult than it seems because you need to make sure that all the stitches from up downwards are in the same direction. Now, the folded parts of the petals are stitched using split stitch in 2 strands of thread #1 from the list. Work it in “circles”: stitch the outline first and then continue moving inwards, along the already stitched lines. The petal is complete! If you want, you can work all your petals in the way I demonstrated: main body + folded part and then move to the next petal. Otherwise, maybe you want to stitch first the main body of each petal in long and short stitch and then stitch the folded parts for all of the petals. It's really up to you, it won't affect the final result, so feel free to do as you like. Second and third petal. Fourth and fifth petal. You can change the order of working the petals according to your liking, though. I just wanted to start with the straightest petal for demonstration purposes, but normally, I'd start with a petal that lies further in the background and gradually move to the front. This is where we end Part 2 of the instructions. Hope everything was clear? The petals might take a longer time to complete, compared to the previous part, so try to calculate your time so that you finish by the next Friday. Let's all do our best! If you feel confused you might want to read the previous needle painting stitch along to have a better idea of how long and short stitch works. I already mentioned it in the previous post, but I was sincerely SO happy to see the current results that some of you posted or sent me privately! Keep up the good work, you're all doing great! Send me your works or drop the pictures in the comments section below if you want to get extra tips, or post on IG using hashtag #ceceliarose_sa, I will check it! Part 3 The pattern is now in Resource Library. You will get a password after signing up to the Newsletter, save it for further use!

It's Friday and it means a new part of instructions for the Cecelia Stitch along arrived! Hope you managed to complete the first part of the Stitch Along where we worked the stem and the leaves. If you didn't read it yet, then follow the link below. Cecelia Rose Part 1 There weren't many questions regarding the first part of instructions, so I can just hope that everything was clear and you've been silently working on the design. If you have any questions after this part of the stitch along, don't hesitate to chime in the comments section or message me through the contact form in the right sidebar. As for today, we will start working on petals and we are going to use long and short stitch and split stitch again. Here's the lesson for long & short stitch in case you don't know what it is. And here's split stitch tutorial. Although, if you completed the first part of instructions, you should know by now what these stitches are. A quick reminder: please, pay attention to the number of strands of floss that I mention, and also I'm going to mention the colors using #1-10 referring to the list of DMC thread in the pattern you received. Which means if I say #3 it means the DMC thread under this number in the list. Now, shall we start? The main “body” of the petal is stitched using long & short stitch technique, and only 1 strand of floss. We start with the petal situated right above the stem. We take thread #2 from the list in the pattern. We make an outline of a petal using split stitch – only three sides, without the base. Alternatively, you may use split back stitch, but be aware that it is more thread consuming. Don't worry if the split stitch doesn't look fantastic, because it will be covered soon. It only has a functional use here, not bearing any decorative purpose. Now we make guiding stitches for the first row of long and short stitches. You can also mark the direction of stitches using a water erasable marker or a pencil. But I still prefer having guiding stitches, they add some confidence to me. By the way, did you notice that the design is upside down as I'm working? You will find it much easier to work these stitches if you rotate your hoop so that your petal is placed vertically and you are able to work from the top downwards. Complete the first row of stitches, filling the gaps between the guiding stitches. The length of stitches is approximately the same, I don't recommend making really short ones at this stage. Keep them about the same length, because they will be covered soon by the second row. Notice how the stitches wrap a little the corners of the petal. Adding the second row of stitches – color #3 from the list in the pattern. Try to keep the direction of your stitches here the same as in the first row. At this point, the length of your stitches can vary quite a lot – make some shorter, some longer, it will help blend the colors better. Also, take a look at the left and right edges of the petal – they are already cozily wrapped in stitches of the same color. Now we take color #5 and make the third layer of stitches. This makes our gradient complete. If you are going to use thread substitutes for this design, then try to find 3 colors which are very close to each other, so that the transition of color works better. But that's not all! Now we will add an extra bit of color! Take thread #4 (1 strand again), and make 10-15 stitches between the second and third layers. If you are going to use thread substitutes, then go for a color that is close to #3 in “temperature” (not darker and not lighter), but has a different shade. For example, my gradient is in pinkish tones, but this extra bit is peachy. This task may be more difficult than it seems because you need to make sure that all the stitches from up downwards are in the same direction. Now, the folded parts of the petals are stitched using split stitch in 2 strands of thread #1 from the list. Work it in “circles”: stitch the outline first and then continue moving inwards, along the already stitched lines. The petal is complete! If you want, you can work all your petals in the way I demonstrated: main body + folded part and then move to the next petal. Otherwise, maybe you want to stitch first the main body of each petal in long and short stitch and then stitch the folded parts for all of the petals. It's really up to you, it won't affect the final result, so feel free to do as you like. Second and third petal. Fourth and fifth petal. You can change the order of working the petals according to your liking, though. I just wanted to start with the straightest petal for demonstration purposes, but normally, I'd start with a petal that lies further in the background and gradually move to the front. This is where we end Part 2 of the instructions. Hope everything was clear? The petals might take a longer time to complete, compared to the previous part, so try to calculate your time so that you finish by the next Friday. Let's all do our best! If you feel confused you might want to read the previous needle painting stitch along to have a better idea of how long and short stitch works. I already mentioned it in the previous post, but I was sincerely SO happy to see the current results that some of you posted or sent me privately! Keep up the good work, you're all doing great! Send me your works or drop the pictures in the comments section below if you want to get extra tips, or post on IG using hashtag #ceceliarose_sa, I will check it! Part 3 The pattern is now in Resource Library. You will get a password after signing up to the Newsletter, save it for further use!

It's Friday and it means a new part of instructions for the Cecelia Stitch along arrived! Hope you managed to complete the first part of the Stitch Along where we worked the stem and the leaves. If you didn't read it yet, then follow the link below. Cecelia Rose Part 1 There weren't many questions regarding the first part of instructions, so I can just hope that everything was clear and you've been silently working on the design. If you have any questions after this part of the stitch along, don't hesitate to chime in the comments section or message me through the contact form in the right sidebar. As for today, we will start working on petals and we are going to use long and short stitch and split stitch again. Here's the lesson for long & short stitch in case you don't know what it is. And here's split stitch tutorial. Although, if you completed the first part of instructions, you should know by now what these stitches are. A quick reminder: please, pay attention to the number of strands of floss that I mention, and also I'm going to mention the colors using #1-10 referring to the list of DMC thread in the pattern you received. Which means if I say #3 it means the DMC thread under this number in the list. Now, shall we start? The main “body” of the petal is stitched using long & short stitch technique, and only 1 strand of floss. We start with the petal situated right above the stem. We take thread #2 from the list in the pattern. We make an outline of a petal using split stitch – only three sides, without the base. Alternatively, you may use split back stitch, but be aware that it is more thread consuming. Don't worry if the split stitch doesn't look fantastic, because it will be covered soon. It only has a functional use here, not bearing any decorative purpose. Now we make guiding stitches for the first row of long and short stitches. You can also mark the direction of stitches using a water erasable marker or a pencil. But I still prefer having guiding stitches, they add some confidence to me. By the way, did you notice that the design is upside down as I'm working? You will find it much easier to work these stitches if you rotate your hoop so that your petal is placed vertically and you are able to work from the top downwards. Complete the first row of stitches, filling the gaps between the guiding stitches. The length of stitches is approximately the same, I don't recommend making really short ones at this stage. Keep them about the same length, because they will be covered soon by the second row. Notice how the stitches wrap a little the corners of the petal. Adding the second row of stitches – color #3 from the list in the pattern. Try to keep the direction of your stitches here the same as in the first row. At this point, the length of your stitches can vary quite a lot – make some shorter, some longer, it will help blend the colors better. Also, take a look at the left and right edges of the petal – they are already cozily wrapped in stitches of the same color. Now we take color #5 and make the third layer of stitches. This makes our gradient complete. If you are going to use thread substitutes for this design, then try to find 3 colors which are very close to each other, so that the transition of color works better. But that's not all! Now we will add an extra bit of color! Take thread #4 (1 strand again), and make 10-15 stitches between the second and third layers. If you are going to use thread substitutes, then go for a color that is close to #3 in “temperature” (not darker and not lighter), but has a different shade. For example, my gradient is in pinkish tones, but this extra bit is peachy. This task may be more difficult than it seems because you need to make sure that all the stitches from up downwards are in the same direction. Now, the folded parts of the petals are stitched using split stitch in 2 strands of thread #1 from the list. Work it in “circles”: stitch the outline first and then continue moving inwards, along the already stitched lines. The petal is complete! If you want, you can work all your petals in the way I demonstrated: main body + folded part and then move to the next petal. Otherwise, maybe you want to stitch first the main body of each petal in long and short stitch and then stitch the folded parts for all of the petals. It's really up to you, it won't affect the final result, so feel free to do as you like. Second and third petal. Fourth and fifth petal. You can change the order of working the petals according to your liking, though. I just wanted to start with the straightest petal for demonstration purposes, but normally, I'd start with a petal that lies further in the background and gradually move to the front. This is where we end Part 2 of the instructions. Hope everything was clear? The petals might take a longer time to complete, compared to the previous part, so try to calculate your time so that you finish by the next Friday. Let's all do our best! If you feel confused you might want to read the previous needle painting stitch along to have a better idea of how long and short stitch works. I already mentioned it in the previous post, but I was sincerely SO happy to see the current results that some of you posted or sent me privately! Keep up the good work, you're all doing great! Send me your works or drop the pictures in the comments section below if you want to get extra tips, or post on IG using hashtag #ceceliarose_sa, I will check it! Part 3 The pattern is now in Resource Library. You will get a password after signing up to the Newsletter, save it for further use!

Se você está em busca de uma sobremesa que conquiste paladares e traga aquele sabor inigualável para encerrar suas refeições, o pavê de morango é a escolha perfeita! Esta receita, uma verdadeira explosão de sabores, une a delicadeza dos morangos frescos com a cremosidade do creme de leite e o toque suave dos biscoitos champagne, resultando em um doce que é sucesso garantido em qualquer ocasião. Criada com carinho e praticidade, esta sobremesa é uma combinação equilibrada entre doçura e frescor, capaz de encantar até os paladares mais exigentes. Com camadas harmoniosas e texturas que se complementam, cada colherada revela uma experiência única e marcante. Neste passo a passo, você encontrará todos os segredos para preparar esse pavê de maneira simples e descomplicada, garantindo um resultado final que vai surpreender e encantar a todos. Siga nossas instruções e desfrute de um doce que conquistará seu coração logo na primeira prova! Confira a receita completa e delicie-se com o pavê de morango, um verdadeiro deleite para os apreciadores de uma sobremesa memorável.

Mary Corbet of Needle ‘n’ Thread has just added a bunch of new videos to her library of stitch tutorials. Among the newbies: buttonhole wheel, oyster stitch, fishbone stitch, and granit…

It's Friday and it means a new part of instructions for the Cecelia Stitch along arrived! Hope you managed to complete the first part of the Stitch Along where we worked the stem and the leaves. If you didn't read it yet, then follow the link below. Cecelia Rose Part 1 There weren't many questions regarding the first part of instructions, so I can just hope that everything was clear and you've been silently working on the design. If you have any questions after this part of the stitch along, don't hesitate to chime in the comments section or message me through the contact form in the right sidebar. As for today, we will start working on petals and we are going to use long and short stitch and split stitch again. Here's the lesson for long & short stitch in case you don't know what it is. And here's split stitch tutorial. Although, if you completed the first part of instructions, you should know by now what these stitches are. A quick reminder: please, pay attention to the number of strands of floss that I mention, and also I'm going to mention the colors using #1-10 referring to the list of DMC thread in the pattern you received. Which means if I say #3 it means the DMC thread under this number in the list. Now, shall we start? The main “body” of the petal is stitched using long & short stitch technique, and only 1 strand of floss. We start with the petal situated right above the stem. We take thread #2 from the list in the pattern. We make an outline of a petal using split stitch – only three sides, without the base. Alternatively, you may use split back stitch, but be aware that it is more thread consuming. Don't worry if the split stitch doesn't look fantastic, because it will be covered soon. It only has a functional use here, not bearing any decorative purpose. Now we make guiding stitches for the first row of long and short stitches. You can also mark the direction of stitches using a water erasable marker or a pencil. But I still prefer having guiding stitches, they add some confidence to me. By the way, did you notice that the design is upside down as I'm working? You will find it much easier to work these stitches if you rotate your hoop so that your petal is placed vertically and you are able to work from the top downwards. Complete the first row of stitches, filling the gaps between the guiding stitches. The length of stitches is approximately the same, I don't recommend making really short ones at this stage. Keep them about the same length, because they will be covered soon by the second row. Notice how the stitches wrap a little the corners of the petal. Adding the second row of stitches – color #3 from the list in the pattern. Try to keep the direction of your stitches here the same as in the first row. At this point, the length of your stitches can vary quite a lot – make some shorter, some longer, it will help blend the colors better. Also, take a look at the left and right edges of the petal – they are already cozily wrapped in stitches of the same color. Now we take color #5 and make the third layer of stitches. This makes our gradient complete. If you are going to use thread substitutes for this design, then try to find 3 colors which are very close to each other, so that the transition of color works better. But that's not all! Now we will add an extra bit of color! Take thread #4 (1 strand again), and make 10-15 stitches between the second and third layers. If you are going to use thread substitutes, then go for a color that is close to #3 in “temperature” (not darker and not lighter), but has a different shade. For example, my gradient is in pinkish tones, but this extra bit is peachy. This task may be more difficult than it seems because you need to make sure that all the stitches from up downwards are in the same direction. Now, the folded parts of the petals are stitched using split stitch in 2 strands of thread #1 from the list. Work it in “circles”: stitch the outline first and then continue moving inwards, along the already stitched lines. The petal is complete! If you want, you can work all your petals in the way I demonstrated: main body + folded part and then move to the next petal. Otherwise, maybe you want to stitch first the main body of each petal in long and short stitch and then stitch the folded parts for all of the petals. It's really up to you, it won't affect the final result, so feel free to do as you like. Second and third petal. Fourth and fifth petal. You can change the order of working the petals according to your liking, though. I just wanted to start with the straightest petal for demonstration purposes, but normally, I'd start with a petal that lies further in the background and gradually move to the front. This is where we end Part 2 of the instructions. Hope everything was clear? The petals might take a longer time to complete, compared to the previous part, so try to calculate your time so that you finish by the next Friday. Let's all do our best! If you feel confused you might want to read the previous needle painting stitch along to have a better idea of how long and short stitch works. I already mentioned it in the previous post, but I was sincerely SO happy to see the current results that some of you posted or sent me privately! Keep up the good work, you're all doing great! Send me your works or drop the pictures in the comments section below if you want to get extra tips, or post on IG using hashtag #ceceliarose_sa, I will check it! Part 3 The pattern is now in Resource Library. You will get a password after signing up to the Newsletter, save it for further use!