Antes de comenzar la cabeza debes tener preparada la nariz.Con color negro.Montar 5 cadenetas.Empezar trabajando en la segunda cadeneta desde el ganchillo.Vta 1: 3 cs en cada cs, 3 cs en la última cad
Antes de comenzar la cabeza debes tener preparada la nariz.Con color negro.Montar 5 cadenetas.Empezar trabajando en la segunda cadeneta desde el ganchillo.Vta 1: 3 cs en cada cs, 3 cs en la última cad
Le motif amigurumi que j’ai partagé aujourd’hui est l’un des personnages les plus aimés de Marvel, le jouet Baby Groot. J’adore le modèle gratuit. Lorsque vous aurez terminé le modèle amigurumi Baby Groot, il sera de très petite taille. Vous pouvez utiliser le motif amigurumi comme porte-clés. Ce magnifique motif amigurumi peut être une idée […]
Cabeza – CuerpoComenzar con color café.Vta 1: 6 cs en anillo mágico. Colocar un marcador para indicar el inicio de la vuelta. Mover el marcador al completar cada vuelta.Vta 2: 2 cs en cada cs de vuelt
This crochet dinosaur T-Rex amigurumi pattern is available in English and Spanish: ENGLISH, ESPANOL! My instructions are organized and are very clear to understand. There are also high quality photos and links for VIDEOS to help you along! ***PLEASE NOTE: This is a digital crochet PATTERN, NOT a finished item*** Please read the listing carefully before purchase as these pdf files are non refundable - you are more than welcome to contact me with any questions you may have. You will receive a link to your pattern download as soon as your payment is processed. Please be sure to save your file to your computer after opening. You will need Adobe Reader to open and print (adobe reader is available as a free download at adobe.com). Sorry, downloads are non-refundable since they are sent directly to you 🍀 Size of the finished toy: About 10.6 inches(27cm) height and 9.5 inches(24cm) from nose tip to tail, with cotton yarn and a 1.75 mm crochet hook 🍀 You can use the same pattern to make larger or smaller toys by using finer or bulkier yarn. Pick a crochet hook at least a size smaller than suggested on yarn label and crochet tightly enough to achieve a tight gauge that will not allow the stuffing to show through the fabric. 🍀 Difficulty: intermediate 🍀 🍀 🍀 For this pattern you need to have basic crochet and amigurumi skills and to know how to read crochet patterns. You need to know the following crochet terms: mr, sc n = magic ring – crochet n single crochet stitches into the adjustable loop. St = stitch Cs = chain stitch (UK=chain) sl st = slip stitch (UK=slip stitch) sc = single crochet stitch (UK=double crochet) dc = double crochet stitch (UK= treble crochet stitch) inc = increase in single crochet (UK=increase in double crochet) dec = decrease in single crochet (UK=decrease in double crochet) Crocheting in spiral Supplies: Crochet hook size: 1.75mm Green color yarn for the body(YarnArt Jeans color 82 about 60 g) and white for eyes, nails and teeth (YarnArt Jeans color 62 about 7g) Black embroidery thread and needle Polyester fiberfill stuffing; Needles for sewing . Scissors; Stitch marker /scrap piece of yarn/; This pattern is for personal use only. You do NOT have permission to recopy, rewrite, or redistribute this pattern in any form as your own or otherwise. You may NOT resell my patterns, but you are welcome to sell any of the items made from my patterns! I would love to see your finished item. You can find more crochet patterns here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AmigurumiJoys
Slither Mini C2C (Modified Corner to Corner) Twin W/Drape Blanket Graphghan Crochet Pattern - PDF Download
E N T E D A G M A R 2.0 Das niedliche Entlein Dagmar ist ein toller Spielkamerad für große und ganz kleine Leut. Mit wenig Material ist sie leicht zu häkeln und läd schnell zum Kuscheln und Liebhaben ein. Ein schönes Geschenk zur Geburt, zur Taufe oder einfach als kleine Freude zwischendurch. Das Einlegen einer Spieluhr, Rassel oder Quietsche macht das Ganze für Babys noch interessanter... Entscheide selbst, wie du dein Entlein gestaltest: die Anleitung bietet dir 2 mögliche Varianten für den Schnabel! Diese Anleitung ist ausführlich beschrieben und begleitet dich bis zur Fertigstellung mit zahlreichen Fotos. Die Rundenanzahl, sowie die Anzahl der Maschen sind aufgeführt. Eine detaillierte Materialliste mit Verlinkung findest du ebenfalls in dieser PDF-Datei.
Grab your crochet hook and follow these free crochet opossum patterns to prepare amigurumi and C2Cs based on this animal in many ways.
This pattern has been a long time in the posting. I've argued with myself over whether or not I should sell this one, but I just couldn't do it. I know it would sell well, and I surely do need the money, but the whole reason I began making these FAN ART plushes was because I know very well how hard it is to find good patterns to make things like these for the kids. I started out looking for patterns to make for my kids, and I found none that I could afford and so started making them myself. I will mention though that if anyone feels inclined to make a donation for the patterns I offer for free here, I have a donation button on the right hand side of the page, the amount is up to you and every donation is deeply appreciated. I do have an Etsy shop where I sell some of my original designs, but I do not sell FAN ART patterns there, those patterns I always offer for free here, because I don't believe FAN ART should be shared on condition of payment, it's a labor of love. Ok... the pattern. This is a more complicated pattern than most of my plushes on here. That's mostly due to the fact there are many smaller parts ... but they aren't really difficult, just different. I have checked the pattern many times and I feel like everything is there and is right, but if you run into anything that gives you trouble, just message me, I will be more than happy to help you. I try to check email at least three times a day if not more often. All the pictures are clickable so you can see them in larger size and get a better idea of the details such as ears, sideburns, etc. I tried to get as many different views as possible. MATERIALS: WW yarn in blue, red, white, peach (or a skin color) and small amounts of black and brown G Hook Fiberfill Yarn Needle Felt in small amounts (white, blue, black) 2 small shirt buttons in yellow (or gold if you have it) Sewing thread to match yarns and felts and a medium duty to heavy duty sewing needle NOTES: Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through. Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row. I recommend reading through the pattern before beginning, to familiarize yourself with the overall process of construction of the doll HEAD (using peach): Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36) Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36) Rnd 13: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30) Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24) Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff head firmly while shaping as you go along. Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 16: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12) Rnd 17: dec over next 2 sc around (6) F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends. NOSE (using peach): Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc around (6) F/O weave in tail. Stuff and shape. EARS: (using peach, make 2) Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (do not join, do not ch 1) turn. (3) Rnd 2: 3 sc in first sc, 2 sc in remaining 2 sc. Do not ch 1, turn (7) Rnd 3: sl st in each sc across (7) F/O and tie the 2 ends together creating a slight curve (ear shape) MUSTACHE: (using black) Ch 7, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook. Ch 5, slip stitch in next ch Ch 4, slip stitch in next ch Ch 3, slip stitch in next ch Ch 3, slip stitch in next ch Ch 4, slip stitch in next ch Ch 5, slip stich in last ch. F/O weave in ends. BODY (starting with blue): Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6-14: sc in each sc around (40) Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around. In last stitch, change to red yarn (32) Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (32) Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, (24) Rnd 18-21: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 23: sc in each sc around (18) Stuff and shape body firmly. Leave neck opening open. HANDS/ARMS (starting with white): (hand/arm version with thumb, shown in photos) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10) Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (10) Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs. sc in next 5 sc (10 sc and one 'thumb') Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (hold 'thumb' down in the front of work and sc behind it) (10) Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8) Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12) F/O white. Attach red yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand. Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10) Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10) Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across) F/O weave in ends. (alternate hand/arm version without thumb, not shown) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10) Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (10) Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8) Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12) F/O white. Attach red yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand. Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10) Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10) Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across) F/O weave in ends. SUSPENDERS (using blue): Row 1: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last ch (2) Row 2-28: sc in both sc (do not ch 2 to turn, it makes for a straighter edge) (2) F/O Weave in ends. LEGS/FEET: Legs (using blue, make 2) Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 4-8: sc in each sc around. (16) F/O stuff firmly and shape them both evenly. Don't close the open end. Feet (using brown, make 2) Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14) Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 11: dec over next 2 sc around (7) F/O stuff *lightly* and shape as desired. Weave end through final round and pull to close. Secure and weave in ends. Sew feet/shoes to 'closed' end of leg as shown (open end is attached to the body) HAT: (using red) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48) Rnd 7: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (54) Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (54) Rnd 9: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (45) Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (45) Rnd 11: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36) Rnd 12: sc in next 25 sc, leave remaining 11 stitches unworked. The 25 stitches will become the 'front' of the hat which is a little higher than the back of the hat. F/O (weave in end) Rnd 13: Attach yarn to center (stitch number 6) of the unworked stitches of the round 11 (not the last 25 sc you worked) and then sc in each sc around. When you reach the section with the 25 sc from round 12, just continue to sc in each one the same as working in unjoined rounds. When you reach the last of the 25 sc, simply continue on to the sc from round 11. (36) Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (36) F/O and weave in ends. Brim/bill of hat: Row 1: Beginning from joining stitch of final round, count 12 stitches over, attach yarn in 13th sc, ch 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. sc in next 11 sc, turn (12) Row 2: (working in front loops only for this row only), sc in each sc across (12) Row 3-6: sc in each sc across (12) Row 7: dec over first 2 sc, sc in remaining sc across to the last two sc, dec over the last 2 sc (10) Do not turn. Ch 1. slip stitch evenly around brim (one sc in end of each row for the sides). When you reach the corner where the brim meets the hat, put 2 sc in that corner and resume slip stitching in each st around until you reach the starting point. Join to first sl st and f/o. weave in ends HAT LOGO: Using white: Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) F/O weave in ends. Cut an M from red felt (I recommend using paper first so that you can be sure you like the look and the size before cutting from felt, using the paper M as a pattern). Glue or sew the M to the center of white circle, sew the logo onto the center front of hat (be sure to center it with the bill of the hat) SIDE BURNS: (Using brown, make 2) Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (2) Row 2: sc in both sc (2) Row 3: skip first sc, sc in last sc (1) F/O weave in ends. HAIR: (using black) Row 1: ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, * sc in next ch, ch 3 * (repeat from * to * to end of chain) end with sc in last ch. F/O ASSEMBLY: I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle. Sew head to neck opening. Sew hat to top of head as shown, giving a slight tilt backwards on the head. Sew the 'hair' to the bottom of the hat at the back (see the photos). Nose is sewn centered on the face with the brim of the hat, but a little lower on the face. Mustache is sewn under the nose much like the hair was at the back of the head. Ears should be placed just at the base of the hat on the sides of the head. Experiment with the placement so that you can be sure you're happy with how the ears look. Sideburns are sewn just in front of the ears as shown. Arms are sewn to the sides of the upper body near the base of the head. If you made the version with the thumbs, be sure to pay attention to the position of the hands and that the thumb is in the right place. Hands should be slightly curved inwards. Suspenders are sewn on as shown (crossing them in the back). Add the two small yellow (or gold) buttons to the suspenders where they meet the 'pants'. Legs/feet are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown. Eyes are constructed from a larger oval shape in white, with a smaller oval shape in blue and another even smaller oval shape in black (see photos). I also like to add a tiny white circle of felt as a catch light to the eyes to help give some dimention. Mario and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo. This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (August 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.
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This crochet dinosaur T-Rex amigurumi pattern is available in English and Spanish: ENGLISH, ESPANOL! My instructions are organized and are very clear to understand. There are also high quality photos and links for VIDEOS to help you along! ***PLEASE NOTE: This is a digital crochet PATTERN, NOT a finished item*** Please read the listing carefully before purchase as these pdf files are non refundable - you are more than welcome to contact me with any questions you may have. You will receive a link to your pattern download as soon as your payment is processed. Please be sure to save your file to your computer after opening. You will need Adobe Reader to open and print (adobe reader is available as a free download at adobe.com). Sorry, downloads are non-refundable since they are sent directly to you 🍀 Size of the finished toy: About 10.6 inches(27cm) height and 9.5 inches(24cm) from nose tip to tail, with cotton yarn and a 1.75 mm crochet hook 🍀 You can use the same pattern to make larger or smaller toys by using finer or bulkier yarn. Pick a crochet hook at least a size smaller than suggested on yarn label and crochet tightly enough to achieve a tight gauge that will not allow the stuffing to show through the fabric. 🍀 Difficulty: intermediate 🍀 🍀 🍀 For this pattern you need to have basic crochet and amigurumi skills and to know how to read crochet patterns. You need to know the following crochet terms: mr, sc n = magic ring – crochet n single crochet stitches into the adjustable loop. St = stitch Cs = chain stitch (UK=chain) sl st = slip stitch (UK=slip stitch) sc = single crochet stitch (UK=double crochet) dc = double crochet stitch (UK= treble crochet stitch) inc = increase in single crochet (UK=increase in double crochet) dec = decrease in single crochet (UK=decrease in double crochet) Crocheting in spiral Supplies: Crochet hook size: 1.75mm Green color yarn for the body(YarnArt Jeans color 82 about 60 g) and white for eyes, nails and teeth (YarnArt Jeans color 62 about 7g) Black embroidery thread and needle Polyester fiberfill stuffing; Needles for sewing . Scissors; Stitch marker /scrap piece of yarn/; This pattern is for personal use only. You do NOT have permission to recopy, rewrite, or redistribute this pattern in any form as your own or otherwise. You may NOT resell my patterns, but you are welcome to sell any of the items made from my patterns! I would love to see your finished item. You can find more crochet patterns here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AmigurumiJoys
Plants vs Zombies Just finished the Bonk Choy plushie! He has bendable arms for making little leafy fists:) #crochet #plants...
Crochet Peter Rabbit by betsymakes
Abgestimmt auf unsere beliebten Drehstühle der Serie SSI PROLINE bieten wir Ihnen jetzt die passenden Besucherstühle Proline Visit an. mit hochwertigem 3D-Netz/Schlingengewebe, schwarz bespannt (formt sich dem Rücken an und stützt diesen in allen Sitz positionen) bequemer Muldensitz mit Sitzunterschale in schwarzem Kunststoff inkl. Armlehnen aus Polyamid, schwarz Netzstoff: 100 % Polyester Belastung: max. 110 kg Sitzmaße: B 480 x T 480 x H 480 mm Rückenlehnenhöhe: 410 mm Aluminium-Fußkreuz, poliert, inkl. Rollen Sitzhöhenverstellung durch Sicherheitsgasfeder (410 -470 mm) integriertes, bewegliches Sitzgelenk (3D-Box), ermöglicht dreidimensionales, gesundes Sitzen drehbar Universalrollen für Teppich und harten BodenSitzen in Bewegung ist eine medizinisch getestete und von Orthopäden/Physiotherapeuten empfohlene Sitzform. Die dreidimensionale Beweglichkeit der Sitzfläche sorgt dafür, dass die Rückenmuskulatur permanent in Bewegung gehalten wird und beugt somit gezielt Haltungsproblemen und Wirbelsäulenverkrümmungen vor. Ein weiterer angenehmer Nebeneffekt dieses Systems ist die Aktivierung des Bewegungs- und Sinneszentrums im Gehirn – das hält Sie den ganzen Tag frisch und steigert Konzentrationsfähigkeit und Leistungsbereitschaft.
Let's get into summer mood with a fun and free crochet project - a Lighthouse amigurumi!