VER PATRÓN TRADUCCION Patrones SUPER MARIO BROS amigurumi POR: alwaysfreeamigurumi Publicado en: Enero 2021 MENÚ ...
Eerder schreef ik een artikel over gratis Disney haakpatronen. Dit artikel is nog steeds erg populair, dus daarom leek het mij leuk om een soortgelijk artikel te maken. Dit keer niet zo zeer met…
This pattern has been a long time in the posting. I've argued with myself over whether or not I should sell this one, but I just couldn't do it. I know it would sell well, and I surely do need the money, but the whole reason I began making these FAN ART plushes was because I know very well how hard it is to find good patterns to make things like these for the kids. I started out looking for patterns to make for my kids, and I found none that I could afford and so started making them myself. I will mention though that if anyone feels inclined to make a donation for the patterns I offer for free here, I have a donation button on the right hand side of the page, the amount is up to you and every donation is deeply appreciated. I do have an Etsy shop where I sell some of my original designs, but I do not sell FAN ART patterns there, those patterns I always offer for free here, because I don't believe FAN ART should be shared on condition of payment, it's a labor of love. Ok... the pattern. This is a more complicated pattern than most of my plushes on here. That's mostly due to the fact there are many smaller parts ... but they aren't really difficult, just different. I have checked the pattern many times and I feel like everything is there and is right, but if you run into anything that gives you trouble, just message me, I will be more than happy to help you. I try to check email at least three times a day if not more often. All the pictures are clickable so you can see them in larger size and get a better idea of the details such as ears, sideburns, etc. I tried to get as many different views as possible. MATERIALS: WW yarn in blue, red, white, peach (or a skin color) and small amounts of black and brown G Hook Fiberfill Yarn Needle Felt in small amounts (white, blue, black) 2 small shirt buttons in yellow (or gold if you have it) Sewing thread to match yarns and felts and a medium duty to heavy duty sewing needle NOTES: Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through. Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row. I recommend reading through the pattern before beginning, to familiarize yourself with the overall process of construction of the doll HEAD (using peach): Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36) Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36) Rnd 13: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30) Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24) Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff head firmly while shaping as you go along. Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 16: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12) Rnd 17: dec over next 2 sc around (6) F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends. NOSE (using peach): Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc around (6) F/O weave in tail. Stuff and shape. EARS: (using peach, make 2) Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (do not join, do not ch 1) turn. (3) Rnd 2: 3 sc in first sc, 2 sc in remaining 2 sc. Do not ch 1, turn (7) Rnd 3: sl st in each sc across (7) F/O and tie the 2 ends together creating a slight curve (ear shape) MUSTACHE: (using black) Ch 7, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook. Ch 5, slip stitch in next ch Ch 4, slip stitch in next ch Ch 3, slip stitch in next ch Ch 3, slip stitch in next ch Ch 4, slip stitch in next ch Ch 5, slip stich in last ch. F/O weave in ends. BODY (starting with blue): Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6-14: sc in each sc around (40) Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around. In last stitch, change to red yarn (32) Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (32) Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, (24) Rnd 18-21: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 23: sc in each sc around (18) Stuff and shape body firmly. Leave neck opening open. HANDS/ARMS (starting with white): (hand/arm version with thumb, shown in photos) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10) Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (10) Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs. sc in next 5 sc (10 sc and one 'thumb') Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (hold 'thumb' down in the front of work and sc behind it) (10) Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8) Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12) F/O white. Attach red yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand. Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10) Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10) Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across) F/O weave in ends. (alternate hand/arm version without thumb, not shown) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10) Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (10) Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8) Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12) F/O white. Attach red yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand. Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10) Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10) Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across) F/O weave in ends. SUSPENDERS (using blue): Row 1: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last ch (2) Row 2-28: sc in both sc (do not ch 2 to turn, it makes for a straighter edge) (2) F/O Weave in ends. LEGS/FEET: Legs (using blue, make 2) Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 4-8: sc in each sc around. (16) F/O stuff firmly and shape them both evenly. Don't close the open end. Feet (using brown, make 2) Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14) Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 11: dec over next 2 sc around (7) F/O stuff *lightly* and shape as desired. Weave end through final round and pull to close. Secure and weave in ends. Sew feet/shoes to 'closed' end of leg as shown (open end is attached to the body) HAT: (using red) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48) Rnd 7: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (54) Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (54) Rnd 9: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (45) Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (45) Rnd 11: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36) Rnd 12: sc in next 25 sc, leave remaining 11 stitches unworked. The 25 stitches will become the 'front' of the hat which is a little higher than the back of the hat. F/O (weave in end) Rnd 13: Attach yarn to center (stitch number 6) of the unworked stitches of the round 11 (not the last 25 sc you worked) and then sc in each sc around. When you reach the section with the 25 sc from round 12, just continue to sc in each one the same as working in unjoined rounds. When you reach the last of the 25 sc, simply continue on to the sc from round 11. (36) Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (36) F/O and weave in ends. Brim/bill of hat: Row 1: Beginning from joining stitch of final round, count 12 stitches over, attach yarn in 13th sc, ch 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. sc in next 11 sc, turn (12) Row 2: (working in front loops only for this row only), sc in each sc across (12) Row 3-6: sc in each sc across (12) Row 7: dec over first 2 sc, sc in remaining sc across to the last two sc, dec over the last 2 sc (10) Do not turn. Ch 1. slip stitch evenly around brim (one sc in end of each row for the sides). When you reach the corner where the brim meets the hat, put 2 sc in that corner and resume slip stitching in each st around until you reach the starting point. Join to first sl st and f/o. weave in ends HAT LOGO: Using white: Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) F/O weave in ends. Cut an M from red felt (I recommend using paper first so that you can be sure you like the look and the size before cutting from felt, using the paper M as a pattern). Glue or sew the M to the center of white circle, sew the logo onto the center front of hat (be sure to center it with the bill of the hat) SIDE BURNS: (Using brown, make 2) Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (2) Row 2: sc in both sc (2) Row 3: skip first sc, sc in last sc (1) F/O weave in ends. HAIR: (using black) Row 1: ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, * sc in next ch, ch 3 * (repeat from * to * to end of chain) end with sc in last ch. F/O ASSEMBLY: I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle. Sew head to neck opening. Sew hat to top of head as shown, giving a slight tilt backwards on the head. Sew the 'hair' to the bottom of the hat at the back (see the photos). Nose is sewn centered on the face with the brim of the hat, but a little lower on the face. Mustache is sewn under the nose much like the hair was at the back of the head. Ears should be placed just at the base of the hat on the sides of the head. Experiment with the placement so that you can be sure you're happy with how the ears look. Sideburns are sewn just in front of the ears as shown. Arms are sewn to the sides of the upper body near the base of the head. If you made the version with the thumbs, be sure to pay attention to the position of the hands and that the thumb is in the right place. Hands should be slightly curved inwards. Suspenders are sewn on as shown (crossing them in the back). Add the two small yellow (or gold) buttons to the suspenders where they meet the 'pants'. Legs/feet are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown. Eyes are constructed from a larger oval shape in white, with a smaller oval shape in blue and another even smaller oval shape in black (see photos). I also like to add a tiny white circle of felt as a catch light to the eyes to help give some dimention. Mario and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo. This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (August 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.
Hello dear Amigurumi FollowersToday we share Amigurumi Super Mario Free Pattern for you. As you know we share
VER PATRÓN TRADUCCION Patrones SUPER MARIO BROS amigurumi POR: Guichai Dolls Publicado en: Tipo de patrón: Descarga ...
Crochet Mario Amigurumi Free Patterns
DISCLAIMER: This pattern and the pictures associated with it are property of One's Creative Mind and are strictly for personal use only. You may NOT sell this pattern on any platform or use my pictures to advertise. However, please feel free to sell your finished crocheted items if you wish and/or post pictures of them
VER PATRÓN TRADUCCION Patrones SUPER MARIO BROS amigurumi POR: fiberdoodles.blogspot Publicado en: Marzo 2019 MENÚ ...
Free amigurumi patterns... On our blog, you can find great ideas, crochet step-by-step tutorial about amigurumi Super Mario. You will not have a hard time crocheting Amigurumi free crochet patterns. Feel free to customize it with different colors or embellishments to make it your own. Enjoy your crafting!
Crochet your own Koopa shells with this free amigurumi pattern!
DISCLAIMER: This pattern and the pictures associated with it are property of One's Creative Mind and are strictly for personal use only. You may NOT sell this pattern on any platform or use my pictures to advertise. However, please feel free to sell your finished crocheted items if you wish and/or post pictures of them
Well, I knew it had to happen. I'm sitting here, working hard on new patterns, and there sits Mario, alone, waiting, occasionally tapping his foot and staring me down. Ok, ok... I get it! You want Luigi, right? Well yes, he did... so being a good little doll-maker, I obliged him his request. Here's Luigi... companion doll to my Mario Plushie. He's somewhat like Mario in construction, but obviously there are some differences. Read the pattern through before starting to see where the changes are. As always, if you run into any trouble, send me a message and I'll get back to you as soon as I can! :D MATERIALS: WW yarn in blue, green, white, peach (or a skin color) and small amounts of black and brown G Hook Fiberfill Yarn Needle Felt in small amounts (white, blue, black) 2 small shirt buttons in yellow (or gold if you have it) Sewing thread to match yarns and felts and a medium duty to heavy duty sewing needle NOTES: Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through. Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row. I recommend reading through the pattern before beginning to familiarize yourself with the overall process of construction of the doll HEAD (using peach): Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30) Rnd 6: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (33) Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (33) Rnd 13: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30) Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24) Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff head firmly while shaping as you go along. Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 16: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 18: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12) F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends. NOSE (using peach): Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc around (6) F/O weave in tail. Stuff and shape. EARS: (using peach, make 2) Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (do not join, do not ch 1) turn. (3) Rnd 2: 3 sc in first sc, 2 sc in remaining 2 sc. Do not ch 1, turn (7) Rnd 3: sl st in each sc across (7) F/O and tie the 2 ends together creating a slight curve (ear shape) MUSTACHE: (using black) ch 12, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, hdc in next ch, 2 dc in next 2 ch, dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, slip stitch in last 2 chs. F/O weave in ends. using sewing thread, pinch the middle of the mustache and secure with thread. BODY (starting with blue): Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6-14: sc in each sc around (40) Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc. In last stitch, change to green yarn (32) Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (32) Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, (24) Rnd 18-21: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 23: sc in next sc, dec over next 1 sc (12) Stuff and shape body firmly. Leave neck opening open. HANDS/ARMS (starting with white): (hand/arm version with thumb, shown in photos) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10) Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (10) Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs. sc in next 5 sc (10 sc and one 'thumb') Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (hold 'thumb' down in the front of work and sc behind it) (10) Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8) Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12) F/O white. Attach green yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand. Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10) Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10) Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across) F/O weave in ends. (alternate hand/arm version without thumb, not shown) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10) Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (10) Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8) Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12) F/O white. Attach green yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand. Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10) Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10) Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across) F/O weave in ends. SUSPENDERS (using blue): Row 1: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last ch (2) Row 2-28: sc in both sc (do not ch 2 to turn, it makes for a straighter edge) (2) F/O Weave in ends. LEGS/FEET: Legs (using blue, make 2) Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around. (16) F/O stuff firmly and shape them both evenly. Don't close the open end. Feet (using brown, make 2) Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14) Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 11: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc (8) F/O stuff *lightly* and shape as desigreen. Weave end through final round and pull to close. Secure and weave in ends. Sew feet/shoes to 'closed' end of leg as shown (open end is attached to the body) HAT: (using green) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48) Rnd 7: sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (52) Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (52) Rnd 9: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48) Rnd 10: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc aorund (42) Rnd 11: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36) Rnd 12: sc in next 25 sc, leave remaining 11 stitches unworked. The 25 stitches will become the 'front' of the hat which is a little higher than the back of the hat. F/O (weave in end) Rnd 13: Attach yarn to center (stitch number 6) of the unworked stitches of the round 11 (not the last 25 sc you worked) and then sc in each sc around. When you reach the section with the 25 sc from round 12, just continue to sc in each one the same as working in unjoined rounds. When you reach the last of the 25 sc, simply continue on to the sc from round 11. (36) Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (36) F/O and weave in ends. Brim/bill of hat: Row 1: Beginning from joining stitch of final round, count 12 stitches over, attach yarn in 13th sc, ch 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. sc in next 11 sc, turn (12) Row 2: (working in front loops only for this row only), sc in each sc across (12) Row 3-6: sc in each sc across (12) Row 7: dec over first 2 sc, sc in remaining sc across to the last two sc, dec over the last 2 sc (10) Do not turn. Ch 1. slip stitch evenly around brim (one sc in end of each row for the sides). When you reach the corner where the brim meets the hat, put 2 sc in that corner and resume slip stitching in each st around until you reach the starting point. Join to first sl st and f/o. weave in ends HAT LOGO: Using white: Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) F/O weave in ends. Cut an L from green felt (I recommend using paper first so that you can be sure you like the look and the size before cutting from felt, using the paper L as a pattern). Glue or sew the M to the center of white circle, sew the logo onto the center front of hat (be sure to center it with the bill of the hat) SIDE BURNS: (Using brown, make 2) Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (2) Row 2: sc in both sc (2) Row 3: skip first sc, sc in last sc (1) F/O weave in ends. HAIR: (using black) Row 1: ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, * sc in next ch, ch 3 * (repeat from * to * to end of chain) end with sc in last ch. F/O ASSEMBLY: I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle. Sew head to neck opening. Sew hat to top of head as shown, giving a slight tilt backwards on the head. Sew the 'hair' to the bottom of the hat at the back (see the photos). Nose is sewn centegreen on the face with the brim of the hat, but a little lower on the face. Mustache is sewn under the nose much like the hair was at the back of the head. Ears should be placed just at the base of the hat on the sides of the head. Experiment with the placement so that you can be sure you're happy with how the ears look. Sideburns are sewn just in front of the ears as shown. Arms are sewn to the sides of the upper body near the base of the head. If you made the version with the thumbs, be sure to pay attention to the position of the hands and that the thumb is in the right place. Hands should be slightly curved inwards. Suspenders are sewn on as shown (crossing them in the back). Add the two small yellow (or gold) buttons to the suspenders where they meet the 'pants'. Legs/feet are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown. Eyes are constructed from a larger oval shape in white, with a smaller oval shape in blue and another even smaller oval shape in black (see photos). I also like to add a tiny white circle of felt as a catch light to the eyes to help give some dimention. Luigi and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo. This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.
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Supplies Worsted weight [4] yarn in colors listed. Brown (Shoes, Sideburns) Red Heart: Café Latte [20 yards]
Learn how to make crochet Koopa shell from Super Mario Bros! This easy crochet Mario shell tutorial teaches you how to crochet mario shell with a video or written pattern! It even includes a free PDF! How do Koopas communicate? They use a Shell-phone! https://youtu.be/FhpvSr2glzo Download the PDF *Requires a free Club Crochet Account The ... Read more
DISCLAIMER: This pattern and the pictures associated with it are property of One's Creative Mind and are strictly for personal use only. You may NOT sell this pattern on any platform or use my pictures to advertise. However, please feel free to sell your finished crocheted items if you wish and/or post pictures of them
Uma receita gratuita para quem é fã se Super Mario, assim como eu!
Happy Freebie Friday! I am so sorry that I managed to get so off track with my Freebie Friday release. the past 2 weeks have been spent cleaning and getting my son ready for secondary school which he starts next week! I cannot believe how quickly time has passed. Also, a lot of time has
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LUIGI ( SUPER MARIO BROS) POR: wolfdreamer VER PATRÓN 574 lana blanca lana verde lana beige lana azul fieltr...
VER PATRÓN TRADUCCION Patrones SUPER MARIO BROS amigurumi POR: Ambros Crochet Publicado en: Septiembre 2020 MENÚ ...
Patrón: Ojos (x2): En blanco 1. hacer una cadeneta de 5 puntos cadenas 2. 3 puntos bajos (empezar desde el 2 punto de la cadeneta anterior) 3. 3 puntos bajos y cerrar con punto enano Cuerpo: En negro 1. 6 puntos bajos en un anillo mágico (6) 2. 1 aumento (repetir) (12) 3. 1 punto bajo y un aumento (repetir) (18) 4. 2 puntos bajos y un aumento (repetir) (24) 5. 3 puntos bajos y un aumento (repetir) (30) 6. 4 puntos bajos y un aumento (repetir) (36) 7. 5 puntos bajos y un aumento (repetir) (42) 8 a 12. 1 punto bajo en cada punto bajo (42) 13. 5 puntos bajos y una disminución (repetir) (36) 14. 4 puntos bajos y una disminución (repetir) (30) 15. 3 puntos bajos y una disminución (repetir) (24) 16. 2 puntos bajos y una disminución (repetir) (18) 17. 1 punto bajo y una disminución (repetir) (12) (rellenar el cuerpo con algodón sintético) 18. 1 disminución (repetir) (6) Cortar y cerrar Botas: En amarillo o naranjo: 1. 6 puntos bajos en un anillo mágico (6) 2. 1 aumento (repetir) (12) 3. 1 punto bajo y un aumento (repetir) (18) 4 a 7. 1 punto bajo en todos los puntos bajos (18) 8. 1 punto bajo y una disminución (12) 9. 1 punto bajo en todos lo puntos bajos (12) Mecha En amarillo tejer una cadeneta de 13 puntos cadena 1. 10 puntos medios altos (tomando los tres medios puntos de la cadeneta anterior como un punto medio alto) Base de la mecha: En plomo 1. 6 puntos bajos en un anillo mágico (6) 2. 1 aumento (repetir) (12) 3. 1 punto bajo y 1 aumento (18) 4. trabajar en la hebra exterior del tejido, 1 punto bajo en todos los puntos bajos(18) 5. 1 punto bajo en en todos lo puntos bajos (tejer el punto entero, las dos hebras) (18) cortar y cerrar con un punto deslizado Llave: En plomo 1. hacer una cadeneta de 23 puntos cadenas 2. 20 puntos medios altos (tomando los tres medios puntos de la cadeneta anterior como un punto medio alto) terminar con punto deslizado. Cocer al cuerpo como muestra en la imagen Acabados: Rellenar las botas tejer la partes al cuerpo de acuerdo a la imagen.
Free amigurumi patterns... On our blog, you can find great ideas, crochet step-by-step tutorial about amigurumi Super Mario. You will not have a hard time crocheting Amigurumi free crochet patterns. Feel free to customize it with different colors or embellishments to make it your own. Enjoy your crafting!
Pattern can be downloaded immediately after purchase Learn how to crochet the shy but spooky Boo, the ghost from Super Mario Bros! This little crocheted Boo Ghost amigurumi measures about 2 inches tall when finished, perfect for a keychain or to throw at plumbers. It also includes a full length unique video tutorial to help you get through the tough parts! *Includes video tutorials for the more difficult parts of the pattern!*
Super Mario fans rejoice! This collection of Mario Bros Amigurumi Patterns are chock full of ideas for the ultimate Mario fan in your life!
VER PATRÓN TRADUCCION Patrones SUPER MARIO BROS amigurumi POR: yarwool Publicado en: Septiembre 2023 Tipo de patrón: Es...
VER PATRÓN TRADUCCION Patrones SUPER MARIO BROS amigurumi POR: Gabriela León Publicado en: Julio 2022 Tipo de patrón: ...
A couple of months ago, I was commissioned to make a dark blue Yoshi. I ☺adore☺ Yoshi. Those of you who grew up playing Super Mario Bros, as I did, will likely understand. The faithful little riding buddy to our hero plumber, Mario, Yoshi was a great addition to the series. He makes the cutest noises during game play. I can't help but smile when he gulps down the Yoshi fruit. I love how on all the Yoshi levels the trees dance. His hovering power is rather useful and seeing his little legs run in the air makes me happy. He's just a great character! I set out to accomplish this challenge with eyes wide open - it was to be my first multi-pieced character (as opposed to the one-piece amigurumi style). Most of Yoshi is amigurumi, but with over a dozen pieces to connect it felt a bit like a jigsaw puzzle where the right location for each pieces kept evading me. But I preserved and after several days of looking at him at different angles with pieces pinned, adjusting and looking some more, readjusting and looking some more, I finally made the plunge and sewed him together. I was pleased with the end result. It was, indeed, a labor of love and I couldn't give him away with stealing a few hugs and quality time with Yoshi all assembled. Also a photo shoot was necessary. Most of Yoshi came from an amazing pattern from robotrish. If you need to make a Yoshi, check out the pattern here. I made a few adjustments according to what I preferred Yoshi to look like. You are welcome to use them if you like them, but you have to hit up robotrish's website for her entire pattern. Using the same hook size you started with... Tummy/Lower mouth (white) I liked the look of horizontal stripes down Yoshi's tummy, so this part is done in short rows. Be sure to ch 1 at the end of your rows (unless otherwise noted as the first few rows), turn, and start your next row in the second ch from hook Ch 4 R1: sc across (3), ch 2 R2: sc across (4), ch2 R3: sc across (5), ch 3 R4: sc across (7), ch 3 R5: sc across (9), ch 2 R6: sc across (10), ch 2 R7: sc across (11) R8-R17: sc across (11) R18: sc across (11), ch 2 R19: sc across (12), ch 2 R20: sc across (13) R21: sc across (13), ch 2 R22: sc across (14), ch 2 R23: sc across (15) R24: sc2tog, 10 sc, sc2tog (12) R25: sc across (12) R26: sc2tog8 sc, sc2tog (10) I love his big nose! R27: sc across (10) R28: sc2tog, 6 sc, sc2tog (8) R29: sc across (8) R30: sl st, 6 sc, sl st (8) sl st all the way around F.O. and weave ends Assembly tip: Attach securely to body piece leaving the bottom "lip" of mouth loose like he's gonna gobble up a yoshi tree fruit. Use rose colored chalk to color in the inside of the mouth for his tongue. Check Spots - make 2 (white) I preferred flat cheeks that were slightly larger around. This section is done in the round. Magic Circle (6) Rnd 1: 2 sc in each st (12) Rnd 2: *sc, 2 sc in next st* around (18) Rnd 3: *2 sc, 2 sc in next st* five times only (20) F.O. and weave ends Assembly tip: Match up "flat side" of circle to mouth/tummy strip and sew on. Boots - make 2 (start with light brown) I wanted a two-toned shoe and chose a rounder shape over the fold over boot. This is done in the round. Magic Circle (6) Rnd 1: 2 sc in each st (12) Rnd 2: *sc, 2 sc in next st* around (18) Rnd 3: sc around (18) **Change to darker brown color** Rnd 4: sc back loops only around (18) Rnd 5: *2 sc, 2 sc in next st* four times, 6 sc (22) Rnd 6: *3 sc, 2 sc in next st* four times, 6 sc (26) Assembly tip: Insert small cardboard circle to make the bottom of shoe "flat" Rnd 7: 26 sc (26) Rnd 8: 3 sc, sc2tog, *sc, sc2tog* around (18) Rnd 9: 3 sc, sc2tog, *sc, sc2tog* around (12) F.O. and weave ends Assembly tip: match up 12 st of boot to the 12 leg st and crochet together with dark brown Saddle Following robotrish's pattern up to R3 then my changes made it a slightly larger saddle... R3: (still using red yarn) ch 1 and sc in same st as sl st, sc around adding 22 in the middle of rows and around edges. F.O. R4: (switch to white yarn) sc around front posts tightly (creates a bit of texture and bump in saddle. F.O. Finish Yoshi following robotrish's assembly directions and you'll have an☺adorable☺ Yoshi of your very own! photos courtesy of www.timdenison.com Sitting down this Yoshi measure about 11" in height.
VER PATRÓN TRADUCCION Patrones SUPER MARIO BROS amigurumi POR: supergurumi Publicado en: MENÚ PÁGINA P...
Happy Freebie Friday! So it's time for the second post of the day - Wiggler! I have actually been dreading having to type up this pattern post because it requires a lot of detail and I was not sure how I would be able to explain the various aspects to complete it. This is a
Uma receita gratuita para quem é fã se Super Mario, assim como eu!
Download the Wario and Waluigi Amigurumi Patterns in PDF format to crochet these evil characters of Mario Bros Wario PDF Pattern - 30 pages Waluigi PDF Pattern - 21 pages Go back to your childhood crocheting these lovable characters! By following the patterns you can crochet the dolls with a hook, yarn, fiber fill and a basic knowledge of crochet. The patterns include: The stitches needed to crochet each part of the amigurumis Photos of the process Information about the necessary materials Detailed explanations Assembly instructions My help if you need it Wario´s Size:(12,5" / 32 cm) Waluigi´s Size:(13" / 33 cm) Hook: 2 mm Language of the patterns: English and Spanish. You will receive 4 PDFs: 2 patterns in English and Spanish. Download the Wario and Waluigi Amigurumi Patterns and begin to crochet them right now! To download them you must add the product to the cart and follow the purchase process. If this is the first time you buy, an account will be created so you can access your downloads whenever you want in My Account > Downloads. If you already have an account, enter to make the purchase with the data of your account. Do you have any question?, please visit the FAQ.
Oláaaaa pessoal! Nossaaaa!!! Tanto tempo sem escrever e parece que perdi a prática! rsrsrs. Fiquei aqui matutando o que eu postaria e o q...
