xxxxx

PDF pattern for knitted wine glass square. Great as a dishcloth or washcloth or with other squares to form a blanket or afghan (there are lots of other squares the same size available in my store). Both chart and easy to follow written pattern are included. Required skills: cast on, cast off, knit, purl Materials: You can use any yarn with the recommended needle size on the label, however different yarns and needle sizes will change the size of the square. Plain coloured yarns work best to show up the pattern Sizing: Using DK/Light worsted weight yarn and 4mm knitting needles (US size 6, UK size 8) finished square is approximately 22 cm x 22 cm (8.5 inches x 8.5 inches). Using Worsted weight yarn and 4.5 mm knitting needles (US size 7, UK size 7) finished square is approximately 26 cm x 26 cm (10 inches x 10 inches)

The next throw for 2014 is a pretty good size at 64" x 70". Very soft with James Brett Chunky yarn (once again I'm using this yarn because I need washable for a gift and this is perfect.) The pattern is made with a 16 stitch ( plus 1) and 18 row repeats so can be adjusted to a larger or smaller size. All my patterns work well for baby blankets as well. Make a swatch to see what the pattern looks like with the yarn and needles you've decided on. This, as well as any of the other throws can be easily adjusted. Experience Level: Intermediate Materials: -1365 yds Bulky Weight Yarn (you can very this based on the size you want to make. This will also change if you're using a different weight of yarn with the pattern stitch.) -US 10 1/2 (will very if different weight yarn is used.) Abbreviations: k: knit p: purl RS: right side SSK: slip one stitch knitwise, slip a second stitch knitwise, pass slipped stitches back to left needle, knit through the back loops. Single decrease. SK2P: slip 1 stitch from left needle to right, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch back over knitted stitches. Double decrease. st(s): stitch(es) WS: wrong side yo: yarn over Pattern Stitch: Row 1(RS): K3, *p1, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k2, ssk*; repeat to last 4 sts, p1, k3. Row 2 (WS) and all even numbered rows: K3, p to last 3 sts, k3. Row 3: K3, *p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, ssk*; repeat to last 4 sts, p1, k3. Row 5: K3, *p1, (k2tog, yo) twice, k7, yo, k2tog, yo, ssk*; repeat to last 4 sts, p1, k3. Row 7: K3, (k2tog, yo) twice, *k9, yo, k2tog, yo, sk2p, yo,k2tog,yo*; repeat to last 16 sts then k9, (yo, k2tog)twice, k3. Row 9: K3, *k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, ssk, p1, k2tog, k3, yo,k2tog, yo*: repeat to last 4 sts, k4. Row 11: K3, *k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2, ssk, p1, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1*; repeat to last 4 sts, k4. Row 13: K3, *k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k2*; repeat to last 4 sts, k4. Row 15: K3, *k4, (yo, ssk) twice, p1, (k2tog, yo) twice, k3*; repeat to last 4 sts, k4. Row 17: K3, *k5, yo,k2tog, yo, sk2p, yo,k2tog, yo, k4*; repeat to last 4 sts, k4. Row 18: K3, p to last 3 sts, k3. Pattern: Cast on 183 stitches. Knit 4 rows. Repeat pattern stitch to desired length ending with row 17. Knit 3 rows then bind off. Enjoy!!!

the REAL Paris shawl cast on was october 2nd in Paris with Ella, Margot, Sylvie, Marianne, Gaby, Stephanie, Anna, Monique and Elsebeth big cozy a bit heavy in this yarn, but still soooo cool ;) love it and will think of this lovely weekend whenever I wear it? thank you girls! longer garter stitch sections between the lace due to some glasses of red wine during the Paris weekend…hehe

Lightweight, drapey, and handkerchief soft, our organic linen yarns inspire us to travel far and wide—and this time we drew inspiration from Northern California’s iconic wine country. Borne from our love of Boho-inspired layering pieces, long walks in the vineyards, and an abundance of sunshine, we’re proud to share a collection of knitterly staples that we feel embraces the carefree and adventurous spirit of the summer season.  Appellation features the talents of Emily Greene, Renate Kamm, Jessica McDonald, Jennifer Owens, and Jill Thompson Beach. Filled to the brim with five stunning designs named after some of our most favorite wine regions, it features patterns knit in both of our organic linen yarns, Sparrow and Kestrel. So whether you’re new to knitting with linen or a longtime flax fan, we’re certain this collection has something to offer everyone. Enjoy savings when you purchase the whole Appellation collection, or purchase each pattern individually—the choice is yours!

A bottle of wine can be simple solution for a hostess gift or co-worker gift during the busy holiday season. It’s kind of like giving a jar of cashews or a box of chocolates. It’s nothing out of the ordinary, but it’s almost always welcomed and appreciated by the person who receives it. For those that...

PDF pattern for knitted wine glass square. Great as a dishcloth or washcloth or with other squares to form a blanket or afghan (there are lots of other squares the same size available in my store). Both chart and easy to follow written pattern are included. Required skills: cast on, cast off, knit, purl Materials: You can use any yarn with the recommended needle size on the label, however different yarns and needle sizes will change the size of the square. Plain coloured yarns work best to show up the pattern Sizing: Using DK/Light worsted weight yarn and 4mm knitting needles (US size 6, UK size 8) finished square is approximately 22 cm x 22 cm (8.5 inches x 8.5 inches). Using Worsted weight yarn and 4.5 mm knitting needles (US size 7, UK size 7) finished square is approximately 26 cm x 26 cm (10 inches x 10 inches)

KNITTING PATTERN contains instructions for POSY doll. Clothes include sweater, hat, skirt, panties, Mary Jane shoes and slippers. All can be removed. SIZE: Posy doll - 41cm (16in) NEEDLES: Two 3.25 mm needles (US 3) and two 4mm (US 6) YARN: DK (double knitting) yarn (USA - light-worsted/Australia - 8 ply). SKILLS REQUIRED: cast on, cast off, knit, purl, increase, decrease PATTERN: 12 page PDF file with plenty of pictures and step by step instructions © 2011 Wendy Phillips copyrighted design. All rights reserved.

Now that I've showed you guys how I do Judy's Magic Cast On, in both knit and purl , you're ready to try alternating them, giving you a ribb...

Now that I've showed you guys how I do Judy's Magic Cast On, in both knit and purl , you're ready to try alternating them, giving you a ribb...

PDF pattern for knitted wine glass square. Great as a dishcloth or washcloth or with other squares to form a blanket or afghan (there are lots of other squares the same size available in my store). Both chart and easy to follow written pattern are included. Required skills: cast on, cast off, knit, purl Materials: You can use any yarn with the recommended needle size on the label, however different yarns and needle sizes will change the size of the square. Plain coloured yarns work best to show up the pattern Sizing: Using DK/Light worsted weight yarn and 4mm knitting needles (US size 6, UK size 8) finished square is approximately 22 cm x 22 cm (8.5 inches x 8.5 inches). Using Worsted weight yarn and 4.5 mm knitting needles (US size 7, UK size 7) finished square is approximately 26 cm x 26 cm (10 inches x 10 inches)

Now that I've showed you guys how I do Judy's Magic Cast On, in both knit and purl, you're ready to try alternating them, giving you a ribbed cast-on, which I have affectionately named "Judy's Magic Rib." Judy's Magic Rib is a great way to start mini-moebii which you can use for sock or sweater cuffs, baby hats, etc. Fundamentally, Judy's Magic Rib breaks down into just four components: Cast on in knit. Transition from knit to purl. Cast on in purl. Transition from purl to knit. This post will focus on the Transitions because we have already covered how to cast on in knit and purl in previous posts (here and here). In the transitions, you will: Bring both strands of yarn through the middle between the two needles, to the other side. Rotate the yarns one half-twist.Note that you can do these two sub-steps in either order; this is the order I happen to prefer, and this is what is shown below. I have to warn you: the kinetics are tricky. You'll be moving two strands of yarn towards you vs. away from you AND rotating in one direction vs. another. It took me *many* attempts to understand how this works. I dearly hope that my efforts to make this technique understandable to you have not been in vain! The example below is for k2p2 rib. 1. Cast on 2 sts in JMCO-knit. Start on the bottom needle, end on the top needle. For a refresher on how to do this, click here. 2. Transition from knit to purl. 1. Bring both strands of yarn between the two needles, from back to front. Be careful to not let that last stitch slip off! (It's easier if you first bring the yarns together with your thumb & forefinger, then bring them through the middle.) 2. Rotate the yarns around each other to un-cross them. This is a bit of a pain, because you have to reposition the yarn in your left hand, and switch which finger holds which end of the yarn. The image below shows this in principle. The three images that follow show how I do it (which you can ignore, if you want to use a different set of movements). Before I show you how, first I'm going to point out to you that when you're doing JMCO-knit, you hold the tail (red) with your forefinger and the working yarn (black) with your thumb. Whereas when you're doing JMCO-purl, it's the opposite: the working yarn goes on your forefinger, and the tail goes on your thumb. In both cases, the working yarn gets wrapped around the top needle, and the tail gets wrapped around the bottom needle. In theory, if our wrists could rotate another 180 degrees in either direction, it wouldn't matter which finger held which strand, but we humans have our limitations. So, this is why, when you transition from knit to purl and purl to knit, you have to switch yarn positions. Hope that makes sense. :) Here's how I rotate the yarns from JMCO-knit to JMCO-purl... Note that I used to drop both ends of the yarn, rotate them, and pick them up again. Doing that for each and every transition got old really fast. I eventually figured out this method, which I like a lot better. (a) With your thumb, let go of the working yarn. Bring your thumb under and behind the working yarn, then up and and in front of the tail. (b) Now that your thumb is holding the tail, release your forefinger. With your thumb, swing the tail down, behind the working yarn. (c) Now grab the working yarn with your forefinger, and swing it out. Transition done! Now you're ready to continue casting on in purl. 3. Cast on 2 purl stitches. Remember how to do this? :) Refresher is here. With your thumb, throw the tail over the bottom needle by rotating your wrist out, then back. Throw the working end over the top needle with your forefinger. (below) You've now cast one purl stitch onto each needle, for a total of three stitches on each needle. Cast another purl stitch onto each needle, for a total of four stitches. 4. Transition from purl back to knit. (This is the reverse of the transition you did in Step 2.) 1. Bring both yarns between the needles, from front to back. Be sure that last stitch on the top needle doesn't slip off! Bring the strands of yarn together, then through the middle. 2. Rotate the strands of yarn around each other, so that the tail crosses behind the working end. Note that this time you are rotating them in the opposite direction as you did for Step 2. In principle: Here's how I rotate the yarns from JMCO-purl to JMCO-knit: (a) with your forefinger, let go of the working yarn. Bring your forefinger around behind and over the working yarn, then down in front of the tail. (b) Now that your forefinger has the tail, release your thumb. With your forefinger, swing the tail up and behind the working yarn. (c) Grab the working end with your thumb, and swing it down. Congratulations, you've just completed the first repeating segment of Judy's Magic Rib!!! Now you're ready to cast on more knit stitches. Remember how do to this? :) Refresher is here. Wrap the tail around the bottom needle... Bring the working yarn behind the bottom needle and in front of the top needle... Swing your hand down below the needles... You now have a total of 5 stitches on each needle. Cast on one more knit stitch, then transition back to purl, and keep going until you have the number of sts you want on both needles. Then you can continue knitting in a circle (e.g., for toe-up socks), or use one of your needles as a stitch holder and continue knitting in a tube.

PDF knitting pattern This quick, warm, reversible cowl is a nice project for a first go at double-knitting. Not only is it worked in the round (so you won’t ever have to follow the chart “from the wrong end”), but every even-numbered round is the same as the preceding one - which means that on every other round you won’t need to look at the chart at all. SIZE: 18 cm / 7 in wide, 112 cm / 44 in circumference REQUIRED SKILLS: cast on (ordinary two end / long tail cast-on), knit, purl. It’s also very helpful to know a technique for carrying two yarns, as you would in stranded knitting. My favourite for double-knitting is to carry one yarn on each hand, but other techniques will work as well. Written instructions are given for construction, double-knitting technique and reading the chart. The pattern repeat itself is charted (not written out line by line). YOU WILL NEED: equal amounts of DK yarn in two colours that will get you the right tension (gauge). I used Drops Karisma, 100 g each in Dark Purple and Wine Red. 4mm (US 6) circular knitting needle, 100 cm long (or two shorter ones), or size to get correct tension; tapestry needle, scissors TENSION (GAUGE): 34 stitches and 28 rows = 10 cm / 4 in in double-knitting Pattern is in English. THIS IS A KNITTING PATTERN, NOT A KNITTED ITEM. The pattern is my own design and copyright protected. ----------- Problems downloading? PLEASE READ: I would be eternally grateful if you could refer to the Etsy help page before contacting me, here's the link: https://help.etsy.com/hc/en-gb/articles/115013328108-How-to-Download-a-Digital-Item?segment=shopping. Steps that usually help are checking your spam folder and accessing the file from a computer rather than a mobile phone. Do be in touch if problems persist.

This Wine Bottle Sweater makes for the perfect hostess gifts at all of your upcoming holiday parties! Follow along with my free written pattern and video tutorial and make your sweater right along with me. Hello and welcome back to my blog! Today I am sharing an old blog favorite with refreshed photos and an...

If you're looking for a relaxing knit, cast the Effortless Cherry Wine Afghan onto your needles. Knit with only one pattern repeated, this knit blanket pattern is perfect for knitters who simply want to get lost in a knitting project without having to worry about the complexities of cables and other such techniques. This year, learn how to knit a blanket that will keep you warm during the chillier nights to come. After all, there's nothing better than snuggling up under a cozy knit you made yourself. All you need to complete this beautiful knit afghan is time and patience. The rest is a breeze. Soon, you'll have a cozy knitted blanket keeping you warm for many years to come.

Now that I've showed you guys how I do Judy's Magic Cast On, in both knit and purl , you're ready to try alternating them, giving you a ribb...

This top down stranded colorwork pullover is an ode to bees or anthophila. Scientists have continually stated that bees and the pollination they provide are critical to the ecosystem and the agricultural economy. Knit from the top down beginning with a tubular cast on, stranded colorwork bees flutter across the yoke followed by gentle German short row shaping. The bottom edge and cuffs are tipped with colorwork. SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL, 6XL) Shown in size Small. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Bust: 31 (34¾, 39, 43½, 47, 51½, 55, 59½, 63, 67½)“/78 (88.5, 99, 110.5, 119.5, 131, 139.5, 151, 160, 171.5) cm Length from Back Neck: 22½ (23, 23½, 24, 24¾, 25½, 26, 26½, 27, 27½)”/57 (58.5, 59.5, 61, 63, 65, 66, 67.5, 68.5, 70) cm YARN 4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11) hanks Dragonfly Fibers Valkyrie (4oz/113g ea approx. 200yds/183m, 100% superwash merino) in Wine Country (MC) • 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) hank(s) Dragonfly Fibers Valkyrie (4oz/113g ea approx. 200yds/183m, 100% superwash merino) in Golden Compass (CC) NEEDLES US 6 (3.5 mm) 16”/40 cm and 32”/80 cm long circular needles and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed needles US 8 (5mm) 16”/40 cm, 24”/60 cm and 32”/80 cm long circular needles and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge GAUGES 18 sts and 24 rnds = 4”/10 cm in St st with larger needles; 20 sts and 26 rnds = 4”/10 cm in stranded colorwork pattern with larger needles

The Design “Keeps your hot tea hot!” This little tea cozy—a free pattern—does the very important job of keeping your tea at the optimum temperature. And looks adorable doing it! Our Seed-Stitch Tea Cozy is definitely doable in an evening or two and is topped with a poofy pompom! We knit this cute cozy in worsted-weight Rowan Kid Classic, a favorite of ours for nearly ever. Kid Classic’s lambswool offers loft and resilience, while the mohair—not brushed ‘fluffy’ like many mohair yarns—adds luster, depth of color and tonal complexity. It’s an excellent choice to keep your teapot well insulated! The Details FINISHED SIZES Approx. 16"/40cm around x 6 1/2"/16.5cm tall. Fits most standard 2-cup teapots, like our Smith Teapot and Brown Betty. YARN 1 skein Rowan Kid Classic (153 yds/140m each). Or approx 100 yds/91m of an equivalent worsted-weight yarn. Optional - a small amount of matching or contrasting yarn for pompom. You'll have enough yarn left to make a pom-pom in the body color if you wish. Shown in color 898, Champagne with a contrasting pom-pom from stash yarn. NEEDLES & NOTIONS US 5 (3.75mm) needles, or size to obtain gauge. 1 stitch holder or spare double-point needle. Darning needle to finish. Optional - 1 5/8"/45mm Pom-pom maker; strong yarn or string to attach pom-poms. GAUGE Approx. 20 sts = 4"/10cm in seed stitch. Free Seed Stitch Pompom Tea Cozy pattern (Download). COLOR: 825 Crushed Velvet. COLOR: 847 Cherry Red. COLOR: 871 Canard. COLOR: 866 Bitter Sweet. COLOR: 831 Smoke. COLOR: 856 Tattoo. COLOR: 876 Drought. COLOR: 828 Feather. COLOR: 888 Pumice. COLOR: 852 Victoria. COLOR: 890 Cement. COLOR: 891 Henna. COLOR: 892 Iron. COLOR: 832 Peat. COLOR: 894 Mulberry. COLOR: 895 Clover. COLOR: 898 Champagne. COLOR: 899 Floss. COLOR: 897 Lavender. Small Pompom Maker. Pompom Maker Set.

4 LITTLE ANGELS to hang on your Christmas tree. Quick and easy to make and perfect for utilising yarn left over from other projects. YARN: Only small amounts of DK yarn are needed. I used Paintbox Simply DK which is available in 50gm balls so you will have plenty remaining for other knitting projects. The vibrant colours are perfect for Christmas decorations. Small amounts of hair coloured yarn are also required in colours of your choice. (USA use light-worsted. Australia use 8 ply). SIZE: Each Little Angle measures - 10 cm (4in). NEEDLES: All knitting is done on two straight 2.75mm needles and seamed. (US size 2). SKILLS REQUIRED: Cast on, cast off, knit, purl, increase, decrease. PATTERN: This is a very easy to follow 8 page pattern. All rows are numbered and there are plenty of pictures and step by step instructions to guide you. © 2016 Wendy Phillips. All rights reserved.

I've been experimenting lately with making continuous spirals. The first project was a mini-hat. (Top view) If you count the strands knotted on the top you'll find 5 purple and 3 white. Note that the purple spiral is 5 rows high and the white spiral is 3 rows high. This is not a coincidence. (Side view, inside-out) I'm showing it to you inside-out so you can see that the yarn does not carry across any rows or columns of stitches; the stripes spiral continuously, all the way to the top, like a barber pole. (I'm not sure if this would qualify as a helix -- I think so but can't say with any degree of authority.) You might be wondering, if you're knitting a spiral form, how do you start and end? If you look at the candy-cane sock below, which I knit cuff-down, you can see that the cast-on row cuts across the red stripes. Unlike the baby hat, the stripes don't go all the way to the tip of the toe here. It's possible to do, it's just a pain. For this particular sock, I decided to end the spiral just before the toe. I'll tackle the spiral toe next time. The image below should give you some idea of the work involved... Yes those are 12 different strands of yarn that I am working with simultaneously. If you count them you'll find 8 separate balls of white and four red. As with the hat, each strand of yarn corresponds to 1 row on the sock -- only this time, I broke the pattern up into 7 white, 3 red, 1 white, 1 red. The box with the 12-piece separator was a nice way to keep all of the strands separate, while maintaining easy portability of the project. Half-bottle wine box with separator graciously provided by Panther Creek winery. Allow me also to point you to the work of Sarah-Marie Belcastro, topological graph theorist and uber-expert knitter. She knits her spiral pieces differently than I do -- just another interpretation of the form. She has a new book pending publication which will demonstrate her method. If you're a Raveler, check out her Spiral Bedsocks!

How to Cast Off Knitting Stitches for Beginning Knitters by Studio Knit

PDF knitting pattern This quick, warm, reversible cowl is a nice project for a first go at double-knitting. Not only is it worked in the round (so you won’t ever have to follow the chart “from the wrong end”), but every even-numbered round is the same as the preceding one - which means that on every other round you won’t need to look at the chart at all. SIZE: 18 cm / 7 in wide, 112 cm / 44 in circumference REQUIRED SKILLS: cast on (ordinary two end / long tail cast-on), knit, purl. It’s also very helpful to know a technique for carrying two yarns, as you would in stranded knitting. My favourite for double-knitting is to carry one yarn on each hand, but other techniques will work as well. Written instructions are given for construction, double-knitting technique and reading the chart. The pattern repeat itself is charted (not written out line by line). YOU WILL NEED: equal amounts of DK yarn in two colours that will get you the right tension (gauge). I used Drops Karisma, 100 g each in Dark Purple and Wine Red. 4mm (US 6) circular knitting needle, 100 cm long (or two shorter ones), or size to get correct tension; tapestry needle, scissors TENSION (GAUGE): 34 stitches and 28 rows = 10 cm / 4 in in double-knitting Pattern is in English. THIS IS A KNITTING PATTERN, NOT A KNITTED ITEM. The pattern is my own design and copyright protected. ----------- Problems downloading? PLEASE READ: I would be eternally grateful if you could refer to the Etsy help page before contacting me, here's the link: https://help.etsy.com/hc/en-gb/articles/115013328108-How-to-Download-a-Digital-Item?segment=shopping. Steps that usually help are checking your spam folder and accessing the file from a computer rather than a mobile phone. Do be in touch if problems persist.

Hola knitters! Hoy os enseñamos cómo montar los puntos de una manera fácil y rápida para empezar cualquiera de vuestros kit de tejer WAK y...¡con una sola mano! Tan sólo tenéis que seguir estos sencillos pasos: 1.Calcula la lana que necesitas para montar los puntos que requiere tu patrón. 2.Haz un nudo corredizo en una de tus agujas de madera WAK (este será tu primer punto. 3. Coge los dos cabos de lana entre los dedos índice y pulgar de tu mano izquierda como te mostramos en la foto, mientras sujetas la aguja con tu mano derecha. 4- Pasa tu aguja por debajo del anilo de lana que queda en tu dedo pulgar y recoge la primera hebra que queda por delante de tu dedo índice.Con la punta de tu aguja de madera, vuelve con esa hebra por el anillo de lana que queda en tu dedo pulgar, pásala y tira de los cabos de lana para adaptar tu punto a la aguja como te enseñamos en las fotos. 5- Repite desde el paso 3 para montar los puntos que sean necesarios para empezar con tu nueva prenda WAK.

For pattern support please go to the questions thread here. update 05/06: Spanish translation available …designed for the Stitch ‘n Bitch weekend in Copenhagen? Copenhagen calling was designed for the third (!!!) meeting-the-gang weekend that will take place in Copenhagen (I will be in Copenhagen from september 24th to september 26th for a knitting retreat with all my lovely Paris ladies (ladies! I can hardly wait to meet you again!). Same as for the Paris shawl (and the Amsterdam shawl…hahaha) the goal was to keep the knitting easy enough to be able to giggle and babble and have a glass of red wine (or two…)…and to keep a ‘theme’ for our weekends… please find the other meeting-the-gang patterns here and here Copenhagen calling is a snugly cowl that is done in 2 colors using 3 different patterns (all three of them are easy – I swear!). Entirely knitted in the round, there are only 4 ends to weave in ;) Yarn DK to light worsted weight yarn in 2 different colors, approx. 275 yds (250 m) of color 1 (blue); sample shows Pura Hilados Fina in color Buenos Aires Sky and 360 yds (330 m) of color 2 (gray); sample shows Miss Babs Yowza in color Beechwood. Needles US 7 (4.5 mm) 32” (80 cm) circular needle. US 6 (4 mm) 32” (80 cm) circular needle. Gauge 17 sts x 28 rows = 4 x 4 in (10 x 10 cm) in Stockinette stitch after blocking on US 7 (4.5 mm) needles. Gauge is not crucial for this project, but will affect yardage and final size when different. Size Circumference: approx. 60” (152 cm) Height: approx. 12” (30 cm) Size is adjustable by adding/reducing the number of stitches at cast on. Materials Tapestry needle; stitch marker, blocking tools

PDF pattern for knitted wine glass square. Great as a dishcloth or washcloth or with other squares to form a blanket or afghan (there are lots of other squares the same size available in my store). Both chart and easy to follow written pattern are included. Required skills: cast on, cast off, knit, purl Materials: You can use any yarn with the recommended needle size on the label, however different yarns and needle sizes will change the size of the square. Plain coloured yarns work best to show up the pattern Sizing: Using DK/Light worsted weight yarn and 4mm knitting needles (US size 6, UK size 8) finished square is approximately 22 cm x 22 cm (8.5 inches x 8.5 inches). Using Worsted weight yarn and 4.5 mm knitting needles (US size 7, UK size 7) finished square is approximately 26 cm x 26 cm (10 inches x 10 inches)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Bust (buttoned) 34½ (38½, 42½, 46½)”/88 (98, 108, 118)cm bust circumference Length 19 (19¾, 20½, 21¼)/48 (50, 52, 54)cm Upper arm 13½ (14¼, 15¼, 16¼)”/34.5 (36, 38.5, 41.5)cm SKILL LEVEL Easy MATERIALS Approx 820 (950, 1070, 1200)yd/750 (870, 980, 1100)m of heavy worsted/chunky wool, acrylic or blend yarn in wine red 1 pair size US 7-9/4.5-5.5mm straight needles Size US 7-9/4.5-5.5mm circular needle 32”/80cm length Two black buttons 1¾”/45mm Tapestry needle ERRATA: This part in the first paragraph of Right Front should be omitted: “until work measures 8½ (9, 9, 9¼)”/21.5 (22.5, 22.5, 23.5)cm = 46 (48, 48, 50) rows from beg of St st, end on WS” It should read: Cast on 43 (46, 50, 54) sts. Work in garter st for 2½”/6.5cm = 19 rows, beg and end on WS. Cont even in St st.

Wine bottle sweaters are a fun craft for decor or gift giving. It's the perfect opportunity to try a new stitch or practice a new technique. Today I have two samples; one is a cabled pattern with an open collar and the other is a stranded knit with the wine bottle equivalent of a turtleneck.

The easies and quickest summer knitting project using macrame cord. Make it as a gift or use it in your own kitchen. Great Beginner pattern!

The Design “Fingering-weight yarn that drapes like a sigh.” Our love affair with linen stitch continues—this time using two colors of fingering-weight Isager Alpaca 2 for a soft fabric that mimics the breezy sigh of a fine woven scarf. Choose high-contrast colors for crisp zigs and zags, or two closer colors for tonal shading. We’ve added a tiny edging and pressed the fabric for a supple finish. We’ve put together our favorite two-color combinations below that make one scarf. If you’d like to select your own, just head over to the Isager Alpaca 2 page. Be sure and pick up the pattern above, too. The Details FINISHED SIZEApprox. 8½ x 64"/21 x 163cm, after blocking. YARN2 skeins Isager Alpaca 2 (270 yds/247m each): 1 each in border color (BC) and contrast color (CC).Note: Usually a lighter BC will result in a less-defined edge.Shown in Colors 47 and 0. NEEDLES & NOTIONS US 10 (6mm) needles, or size needed to obtain gauge.US 6 (4mm) 24" circular needles, or four US sizes (2mm) smaller than gauge needle.2 yds/2m fine cotton waste yarn and medium-size (US G–J [4mm–6mm]) crochet hook for provisional cast-on.Locking marker. GAUGEApprox. 28 sts = 4" in linen-stitch pattern, before blocking. Approx. 26 sts = 4" in linen-stitch pattern, after blocking.

A flash back to the Victorian era, the Cosmopolitan Frill Cowl brings the past to the present with a modern twist. Knit in the round, in a meditative stitch pattern with a simple lace trim, this cowl is an engaging and fun project to knit. Beverage pairing A soft bubbly from Bella Wines Ltd. is the perfect pairing with the Cosmopolitan Frill Cowl. Choose a rosé or a Brut, but why not have a splash of each! Bella is BC’s sparkling wine house that embraces celebration, elegance, and joy; nothing describes the Cosmopolitan Frill Cowl better! [bellawines][1] Pattern notes The body of the cowl is worked in the round in Cowl Stitch pattern. The lace edging is knit flat, purling together the last stitch of the lace on the wrong side row with the live stitches from the body of the cowl/ Provisional Cast On. Materials [MC] Madelinetosh, Tosh Vintage [100% superwash merino; 200yd/182m per 100 gm skein]; Calligraphy; 2 skeins [CC] Madelinetosh, Tosh Vintage [100% supe

Get ready for winter with these free cowl knitting patterns for beginners. This collection includes easy cowl knitting patterns for every kind of knitter

thank you so much for the sweater love. i'm happy that the pockets were liked. if you'd like to try adding pockets to your knits too, here is a photo tutorial of how i've done it. ready? here we go...  here is what you'll need to make your pocket(s). i've used contrasting color wool for the inside, but if you'd rather keep to all one color, then disregard the second color. for demonstration purposes i've made a swatch. before cutting into your sweater, i would suggest always making a swatch to practice on first, you'll want to determine where the pocket should be, then find the center on the sweater (swatch). it's easy to just look, but if you like you can add pins to mark the placement  if you pull your swatch apart, you'll be able to see the stitches a bit clearer. do you see the double vertical bars? the upside down v? choose one in the top center of where you'd like your pocket opening to be lift the stitch so you isolate just one see? now it's time for the scissors making sure you have just the one stitch make (deep breath) the cut :) okay, that was a bit exhilarating wasn't it? next, begin unraveling. delicately, pull the cut thread, from one side, then the other. (remember, your working from the center). having already determined the length of your pocket, only unravel as many stitches as you want your pocket again, carefully, without pulling, pick up the bottom stitches. these will be the top of the pocket. do not cut the unraveled wool, these will be woven in at the end here we have nine stitches picked up. now turn your swatch over to pick up the stitches for the back now we're on the back side, picking up the stitches from the bottom (which is really the top of the pocket) don't worry, if that doesn't make sense, i promise it will. you should have the same number of stitches, here we have nine on the front of the pocket, and nine on the back now on the back, using a contrasting color if you like, attach your yarn to the first stitch on the needle, and begin to knit across the row. here i used a silky merino held double. it's a good idea to use a yarn with a similar weight if you'll be adding a second color keep knitting until your pocket is the the length you want here is how the backside will look, see how the top stitches that you picked up are knit down? when you get to the desired length, bind off, and come back to the front front of work, with the green hiding behind see? now attach the main color yarn to the first stitch and knit one row across then bind off, and the front is done it's already beginning to look like a pocket :) now it's time to seam and stitch your pocket down using the main color wool, split your plies and use one to sew with starting at the top right corner begin seaming. you will of course be much neater than i am here, the light was fading fast, and i wanted to finish up while it was still good! but you can see what needs to be done. sew all the way around your pocket, picking up just the backside of the knit stitch. this is so your stitches won't show on the front. sometimes it might be necessary to split stitches. it's okay now weave in all those left over pieces admire your bravery it wasn't so scary afterall and now you'll have a place for your treasures. one of my favorite posts, is about these things (treasures and pockets), and it's titled, very originally, pockets (there is knitting too) if you'd like more of a hidden pocket, when your using a contrasting color, just knit the first two rows on the back side with the main color yarn, then add the contrast your friends will think you are quite clever. happy pocket making! xxx lori

Learn this great way to join yarn in knitting or crochet. It's secure and another way to avoid having to weave in ends.

Learn how to make an easy basket weave patterned blanket with loop yarn, no knitting needles or crochet hooks required! A fun craft project you can complete in a weekend to keep you warm and cozy. …

This wrap is worked horizontally as a wide scarf and a center provisional cast on, but the pattern can also be worked lengthwise with more stitches. The yarn used is handspun Icelandic wool…beautiful, soft and warm for the fall and winter. Experience Level: Intermediate Materials: - 920 yds Worsted Weight Yarn - Handspun yarn was used for model (This can be made much smaller with less yarn or with thinner yarn as well) - US 9 (5.5 mm needles) Abbreviations: BO: bind off CO: cast on k: knit p: purl k2tog: knit t sts together RS: right side SK2P: slip 1 st knitwise to the right-hand needle, k2, pass the slipped st over the knit sts. ssk: (slip, slip, knit) slip 2 sts (one at a time) knitwise to the right-hand needle; return sts to the left -hand needle and knit them together through the back loops st(s): stitch(es) ktbl: knit stitch through the back loop wyif: with yarn in front wyib: with yarn in back RT: right twist: knit 2 together, but do not slip stitches off needle, then knit right stitch only and slip stitches off needle. WS: wrong side yo: yarn over Pattern Stitch: (multiple of 11 + 8) Set up row 1 (RS): slip stitch purlwise wyif, yo, ssk, place marker, knit to last three stitches, place marker, yo, k2tog, k1. Set up row 2 and all WS rows: slip 1st stitch knitwise wyib, purl to end. Row 1 (RS): slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, RT, *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, RT; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1. Row 3: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k2, yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1. Row 5: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k2, yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, *yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1. Row 7: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k2, yo, k3, SK2P, k3, yo, k2, *yo, k3, SK2P, k3, yo, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1. Row 9: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k4, k2tog, yo, ktbl, yo, ssk, k4, *k2, k2tog, yo, ktbl, yo, ssk, k4; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1. Row 11: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k3, *k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1. Row 13: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2, *k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1. Row 15: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k1, k2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k2tog, *k1, k2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k2tog; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1. Row 16: slip 1st stitch knitwise wyib, purl to end. Repeat rows 1-16 for pattern. Instructions: CO 96 sts with provisional cast on in different colored yarn. (239 for lengthwise wrap). Work in pattern stitch to desired length (or width if making lengthwise). Bind off loosely. If knitting horizontally, remove provisional cast on and pick up stitches. Make sure you have all 96. Beginning with row 1 work in the opposite direction. Bind off loosely. Block, tuck ends and enjoy! NOTE: For the model, I used Judy's Magic cast on instead of the provisional cast on. I wanted to give it a go and it worked beautifully. I cast on, knit a couple of rows on the opposite side I would be working (this provided a little give on the needle), placed the stitches on a holder and continued to finish the originally intended side. Because I was grading colors this mattered for me....would not otherwise.

Now that I've showed you guys how I do Judy's Magic Cast On, in both knit and purl , you're ready to try alternating them, giving you a ribb...

PDF pattern for knitted wine glass square. Great as a dishcloth or washcloth or with other squares to form a blanket or afghan (there are lots of other squares the same size available in my store). Both chart and easy to follow written pattern are included. Required skills: cast on, cast off, knit, purl Materials: You can use any yarn with the recommended needle size on the label, however different yarns and needle sizes will change the size of the square. Plain coloured yarns work best to show up the pattern Sizing: Using DK/Light worsted weight yarn and 4mm knitting needles (US size 6, UK size 8) finished square is approximately 22 cm x 22 cm (8.5 inches x 8.5 inches). Using Worsted weight yarn and 4.5 mm knitting needles (US size 7, UK size 7) finished square is approximately 26 cm x 26 cm (10 inches x 10 inches)

The Lissuin pattern is also available in ‘Novel Knits’, a book celebrating British Literature in stitches. In the works of J.R.R. Tolkien Lissuin is a sweet-smelling flower from Tol Eressea ‘’whose fragrance brings hearts ease’’. Elves brought the flowers to Númenor for adornment of the feast following the wedding of Aldarion and Erendis. The jumper (US ‘sweater’) is knitted seamlessly in the round from the bottom up with raglan shaping at the yoke and a steeked sweetheart neckline. Thus purling in the colourwork pattern is entirely avoided. Combined with spit splicing this construction method also creates very few ends to weave in. The pattern is graded for knitting jumpers in ten sizes, from 32 to 50 inch chest circumferences. When finished the jumper has one inch of positive ease at the chest. I have worked to make this pattern very helpful to the knitter. Clear written instructions are accompanied by charts for every portion of the project except the ribbed edgings. A detailed schematic (diagram) is included to guide the knitter in blocking the finished jumper. The PDF links to various online tutorials for the special techniques involved; twisted German cast-on, magic loop knitting, spit splicing, corrugated ribbing, stranded knitting, and steeking. Needles used are 3mm/US 2 1/2’’ circulars in 60cm/24’’, 80cm/32’’, and 100cm/40’’ lengths, or size required to get the required tension/gauge of 32 stitches and 40 rounds = 10cm/4’’ in stranded pattern. An 80cm/32’’ 2.75mm/US 2 circular is also required for the neck edging. Yarn requirements: Jamieson’s Shetland Spindrift comes in 25g balls. The number of balls required in each shade varies according to the size knitted as follows: Sizes are 32’’ (34’’, 36’’, 38’’, 40’’, 42’’, 44’’, 46’’, 48’’, 50’’) Leprechaun: 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5) Port Wine: 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) Dusk: 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) Daffodil: 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) Lemon: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) Ivy: 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) Please take care if substituting other yarn brands. The sleeve length relies on some growth from blocking. Non-wool or superwash wool yarns may not be friendly enough to blocking to achieve this. Many thanks to Alison Greenwill for technical editing of this pattern.