Appalachian Log Structures, Inc in Ripley, WV is a log home builder that creates high quality custom log cabin homes. Call us today!
Эта статья расскажет о том, как произвести крепление деревянных балок к стенам бани из сруба, а также будут приведены возможные способы их соединения.
Каркасне будівництво у Львові та Україні швидкими темпами набирає популярності, а все тому, що, так звані, канадські будинки швидко будуються та є недорогими.
A modern log dovetail corner joint.
В деревянном строительстве применяются разнообразные способы вруба бруса и бревен, со спецификой и способами изготовления вариантов рубки стоит ознакомиться будущему владельцу.
There is another thread about building with logs. Thought I would share another technique. The technique is called butt and pass and does not need any...
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square hewn log notching.....
Once in a while we get to do a really over the top project💪💪this massive entry arch is going to welcome people at a snowmobile lodge!! It gets perched on...
Quality log homes, log cabins, handcrafted cedar log homes and custom built log home floorplans.Slokana homes is a log home builder that specializes in exporting traditional handcrafted Canadian western red cedar log homes to the United States, Europe, and internationally.
A blog about a carpenter
Build a Small Log Cabin
Learn how timber frame barns, houses and post & beam buildings are assembled and raised!
When using lumber to frame a building, less is more, more or less. Less wood and more thought
fachwerkhaus – Google Kereső
By Rev. J.D. Hooker Issue #43 • January/February, 1997 I know that there are a lot of really fine products available for turning logs into lumber, from bandsaw sawmills to chainsaw attachments. I’ve seen a lot of these at work, too, and most of them are actually terrific pieces of equipment, if you’re interested in […]
Забавные картинки, заставки для рабочего стола, схемы и иллюстрированные инструкции - ответы на ваши вопросы в виде изображений, Поиск по картинке и фото
One of the challenges I’ve been mulling over in my brain for quite some time is how we’ll tackle the floor joists. The good news is that we’re not there yet, so we have time to fi…
DRAFT - new page & new area. NOTE: This page contains important expanded information regarding the Balloon Framing construction method particularly geared towards anyone considering the purchase, or renovation of an older house built prior to mid 1950's. b) Balloon Framing - Construction Method This framing method began in the 1830's, and was common in North America through to the mid 1950's. It made use of very long, continuous, lightweight, wooden wall members (called studs) that typically extended at least two floors of building height, at a time when really long lumber was common and plentiful. (FYI: In a budget-built balloon-framed house, the 2x4's might have been scabbed together to reach the desired two, or three story height.) The rough-sawn, lightweight studs were a true 2"x4" dimension and they greatly reduced the costs, labour and skills required to erect long-lasting dwellings. Dwellings could now be more easily constructed by as few as one, or two persons, rather than requiring big teams of people, as in the case of the earlier timber framing method.The floors were then constructed inside the wall structure and suspended on what is called the "rim board, ribbon board, or ledger board" that was notched into the studs (similar technique to attaching a deck to the side of a house). Older, balloon-framed structure - with very tall studs, a ribbon board cut into the studs, with floor joists resting on the ribbon board - a fire big hazard The resultant walls could contain all manner of insulation material, including sawdust, treated newspaper, even no insulation, making these older houses expensive to heat, insulate or renovate. Balloon-framed buildings are also very susceptible to sagging (particularly the floors) making these old houses very challenging and therefore expensive to renovate well, with some materials and methods not being compatable at all. For example, attempting to install new baseboard trim is likely going to show off huge, unsightly gaps between the trim and the sagged floor! In any house (and especially in an older house), never assume anything is straight, plumb or level! Assume there are likely to be significant and extensive problems ... the big question is ... how big and how bad are they? Always check out everything that is possible to check. Interior walls were then nailed up and covered with thin, horizontal strips of wood (known as lathe), and then the gaps and the wall surface covered over with plaster (a wall construction and finishing technique known as lath and plaster) and often painted with lead-based paints (which form a hazard during renovations). Extensive use of asbestos is also common in older homes and once discovered, by law it can only be disturbed/removed using the services of company trained and licensed in asbestos removal. Trained personnel come in, seal off the area, and wearing special suits and respirator masks, they safely remove and safely dispose of the asbestos. An old house is also likely to contain (and possibly still be using) what was known as original, knob and tube wiring, which must all be removed by law during a major renovation and all upgraded to the most current electrical wiring code. This involves extensive demolition and reconstruction and is therefore costly. Insurance companies will likely refuse to insure a house that is known to still be using knob and tube wiring somewhere in the house. The most likely place to discover knob and tube wiring are in the upper floors, where it would be the most difficult and costly to change out the wiring. The attic is another place where knob and tube wiring is likely to be exposed and fairly easily observed. The wall structure hidden inside the upper story wall of an older, balloon-framed house built in Thunder Bay in the early 1900's. The builders ran out of long, 2-story high studs, so they scabbed them together in order to reach the desired 2-story height. No one involved in the original construction of this house stopped to realize that a few nails are being called upon to support the weight of the roof, plus significant snow loads! An absence of building standards and inspections during this time period of building equates to a wide range of structural integrity and workmanship. There was also a rotted-out roof rafter (as the result of a roof leak) in the upper right corner that also had to be remedied. Also the older the house, the less adherence to modern day building practices and standards. For example, don't assume any of the existing studs are on 16" centres, because back then there was no such need for such a standard because of the materials that were being used at that time in history to finish off the inside walls of the house (i.e. horizontal lath & plaster). Also the older the house, the less chances that any original building inspections being required, hence a wide range of building qualities, along with potentially serious structural and cosmetic compromises should be anticipated. In addition, the older the house, the greater the chances that the house has experienced a major issue at some point in its long history. It is important to try and determine whether any major problems were appropriately rectified, or is the structure and/or infrastructure still compromised? A current design trend being heavily promoted by various old house renovation TV shows is to "open up the space" of old houses to incorporate a more modern, open layout and design. The renovation shows make it all sound so deceptively simple and inviting to do, but be assured that this is seriously complex work, requiring the removal of walls, many of which are likely to be "load bearing." This type of specialized work requires the design and planning, plus inspections by structural engineering professionals, as this treatment alters the support structure ("the bones") of the house. Everything involving the hidden structure must be planned and carried out properly, otherwise the house could collapse. Also certain renovations legally require taking out the proper building permits and building inspections. Skipping this important step can easily become very costly and can come back to haunt you, even when you are in the midst of a renovation. Without proper permits, you could have enabled a specialty contractors that you are likely going to need to hire to potentially extort you when they find out that work has already been completed without obtaining the proper building permits. And if you object, or if you don't hire them ... they carry around the continuous impending threat of reporting you to the authorities! I am not sure how common this scenario is, but I am aware of it having happened. This might not be a well known scenario because anyone who has had this scenario happen to them is not likely to go around telling others how they were taken advantage of. Also down the road when you attempt to sell the house, you have the nagging potential that you could get stung yet again when you are not able to show the permits for the major renovations completed and the potential buyer could use as a lever to offer a lower price, particularly in times of a buyer's market. Bottomline: You are investing in your most valuable asset! Don't risk it. Get the proper building permits when it is required to do! If a house fire gets started in an old, balloon-framed house, it tends to be particularly devastating, since a fire that gets into an open wall cavity is now free to spread very rapidly and unhindered inside wide-open wall spaces upwards to quickly engage the wall on the 2nd floor and then continue unobstructed right up and into the attic! This is one of several serious drawbacks with a balloon-framed structure. When extensively gutting and renovating the inside of a balloon-framed house, "fire stops" are required to be installed inside every wall cavity on every floor to reduce this risk. So ... buying an old house for its quaint charm can very quickly become quite the nightmare, as there are a multitude of things to be aware of when buying, or renovating an older home that most people unfortunately only become aware of AFTER they have paid a heavy, unforeseen price. This information is of course merely scratching the surface of what to look out for. And when buying an already renovated older house, you need to ask yourself (and others) ... has all the work been completed properly and what problems are merely being covered up with perhaps some new drywall and/or with a fresh coat of paint? Ask ... "what alterations/renovations have been completed since the house was built?" And ask to see proof of all the various final building inspections for the work that has been done on the house. Chances are quite high that proper permits were not pulled. This can give you an extra potential lever in a negotiation. And if you are on the other end as a seller, it could cost you in a negotiation. You and a house inspector should be looking very closely for any tell-tale clues to significant issues that were missed in the attempt to cover up a serious issue; a water stain, mold growth in corners (both low & high). Carry a pocket level around the house and put it on everything, and/or casually drop a marble on the floor and watch what happens to it! Don't trust your eyes. Most people purchase a house based largely on the fairly superficial aspects that they can easily see, but it is really the underlying structure and infrastructure, otherwise known as "the bones of the house" that are the most significant and important in the long-term. Most outward appearances can be changed relatively easily and predictably, whereas underlying structure and infrastructure is what really counts for the long-term viability and the total costs of ownership, cost of renovations and the ongoing maintenance and repair expenses. It would also be a good idea to talk to your insurance company BEFORE buying a particular house, since insurance companies have become increasingly particular about what they will and what they won't insure. Don't get caught with an unexpected surprise. Although only scratching the surface, these previous few tips have the potential to save you (and others) tens, and in some cases, even hundreds of thousands dollars, not to mention significant time delays! And don't expect a house inspector to catch and report on every serious issue for a couple of reasons: House inspectors can only report on what they can readily see and they are limited to two hours or less for the inspection period, in order to remain competitive in the business. And interestingly they may NOT want to tell you what you really should know ... because they want you to be happy with them in the short-term, so you will recommend them to your friends and they don't want to be the stumbling block to you being able to get a mortgage on the house that you already have your heart set on. So unless it is blatant, typical flaw (example: roof will need to be replaced within 5 years, electrical wiring issues, etc.), they will tend to gloss over and minimize the seriousness of other significant, less typical defects they may have observed.
