Halsauschnitt oder Saum mit Beleg nähen: Eine gute Möglichkeit, schöne Näh-Ergebnisse zu erhalten. Ich zeige dir, wie du perfekte Belege nähst.

Did you know that you can use piping in place of a facing? This is a technique I learned from inspecting a vintage dress. It's especially ...

Je n'oserais pas dire que vous avez été nombreuses à le réclamer, mais une personne à aider, c'est déjà çà!!! Alors, voici l'explication: Une fois le travail de couture terminé, et qu'il ne reste que l'ourlet du bas à faire, on sort son biais! On pose...

Pratica guida per imparare in modo semplice tutti i segreti dello sbieco: tagliarlo, cucirlo, raccordarlo, ma anche fare gli angoli, non sarà più un problema!

Piping is cool and good. It’s also a heck of a nice way to edge stuff – especially cushions. And did you know that it’s kinda easy to make? Here’s a quick Piping Tutorial: …

In diesem Tutorial zeigen wir euch, wie ihrer einen kombinierten Beleg nähen könnt. Gerade für unser Schnittmuster ist diese Anleitung sehr hilfreich.

La hora del te es un magico momento para compartir y que mejor manera de hacerlo que con unas servilletas bordadas por ti misma. Si estas servilletas las usas para la hora de la mesa y le quieres…

Tuto pas à pas en images pour poser proprement un biais sur une encolure en V.

With this Oliver + S How to Hem Everything, Knit Fabrics Edition, Guide you’ll learn eight different ways to hem knit fabrics.

a blog about motherhood, sewing, crafting, and cooking.

Plusieurs d'entres vous me l'avaient demandé il y déjà quelques temps...j'ai honte du retard.. mais ça y est j'ai enfin pris quelques photos pour vous expliquer la marche à suivre pour finir une encolure ou le bord d'un vêtement avec une bande en jersey....

During the #iwantfabric giveaway last week it became overwhelmingly obvious to me that ruffle knit fabric is still very popular! I picked some up for myself from Michael Levine. I love the color, mustard. I’ll be very sad the day it is completely out of style. When I found this fabric I knew I had...Read More »

Vuoi imparare a cucire un bordo elastico? Scopri tutti i segreti nel tutorial di cucito di Sara Poiese.

This bound hem tutorial teaches you how to sew a bound hem

Today Sarai from Colette Patterns is here on the second stop of her blog tour for her new book--and she has an awesome tutorial to share. Welcome, Sarai! --Gertie As a big fan of Gertie's blog, I'm happy to be joining you all here on the tour for my first book, The Colette Sewing Handbook! It's really wonderful how supportive the whole community of sewing bloggers has become, and Gertie is an especially wonderful example of that. Isn't it nice to see women supporting each other? Today I'm going to share a tutorial for a decorative detail that didn't fit into my new book, but be sure to take a look at the link at the bottom as well to see a link to the giveaway I'm doing for the book plus five sewing patterns! First, a little bit about the book. I wrote The Colette Sewing Handbook as a guide to the five fundamental areas of sewing that I think are so often confusing or challenging for the beginner (and even intermediate) sewist: planning your projects, working with patterns, getting a good fit, understanding fabric, and finishing techniques. The book is designed to be a hands-on tool for learning these concepts, so each of those five sections has a project to go with it. The final project is the lined dress above, called Licorice. Personally, I am a big fan of little details that you can add to just about any sewing project to change the look. After I've made a pattern once and spent some time getting the fit right and familiarizing myself with the design, I like to make it up in different ways, using different fabrics and switching up some of the construction details and embellishment. Today, I thought I'd show you one of those details that didn't quite fit into the book. It's an easy way to add a simple lace insertion, using the Licorice dress. It involves just a teensy bit of pattern manipulation, and it's a great way to work through your stash of lace (I have a ton). tools needed: * Dress or skirt pattern. I'm using the Licorice dress from The Colette Sewing Handbook, sewn in a lovely woven mint green silk. * Lace (about a yard to a yard and a half) * Ruler * Pen First, decide how far from the bottom of the skirt you'd like to place the insertion. I like the way they look a few inches above the hem, but I think multiple insertions around the skirt would also look pretty amazing. Or a really wide one further up. It's up to you. On your pattern pieces, start by marking the seam allowance on the lower hem. For this dress, the seam allowance is 5/8". Draw a line parallel to the hem, whatever distance you've decided for the insertion, on both the front and back pieces. Drawing in the seam allowance on the previous step lets you position the insertion just where you want it. Cut your pattern pieces along this line. Now you have a choice: (a) If you're using lace that's wider than 1/2", you'll be adding a little length to your skirt. If you don't mind that, you can go ahead and proceed to the next step. or (b) If you want to avoid adding any length, that's easy too. Just take the width of your lace and subtract 1/2". Trim that amount off the bottom of the dress front and back. So, for example, if your lace is 2", trim 1 1/2" off the bottom of the dress front and back pattern pieces at this point. Mark the pieces so they don't get mixed up. Cut out all the fabric pieces and sew the dress as instructed. Stop before sewing the center back seam. With right sides together, stitch the front lower hem to the back lower hem at the side seams, finish the seams and press. Now that you have the dress sewn together, measure around the bottom of the dress and cut a piece of lace long enough to fit. Add a couple inches to make sure you've cut it long enough. Fold the bottom hem of the dress under 1/4" and press. Fold another 1/4" and press. Do the same on the lower hem piece, along the top. Fold the top under 1/4", press, fold again 1/4" and press. Pin the lace to the bottom of the dress, placing the right side of the lace onto the wrong side of the dress. Align the edge of the lace with the hem crease. Stitch the lace in place on the dress. Flip the dress to the right side and edgestitch the bottom of the hem to the dress. The two rows of stitching will keep the edges of the dress neat on both the inside and outside. Repeat the last two steps for the lower hem pieces. We used a slightly scalloped lace for this insertion, which worked fine. You may just need to adjust the position of the lace a little if your lace has a shaped edge like this. Finish sewing the dress, putting in the back zipper, sewing the back seam, and hemming. You may want to shorten the lining on the dress, unless you're using a natural color that won't be obvious through the lace. And there you are, a simple insertion that you can use on just about any skirt, dress, sleeve… you name it. For a totally different take on this dress using an insertion, check out this daisy insertion I did during my Spring Palette Challenge project earlier this year. I used a silk-linen blend fabric for that dress, removed the sleeves, added basically a big ruffle for a cape neckline, and did an insertion using vintage daisy trim. Giveaway Thanks for joining me today for this stop on the tour! To see the other blogs that are participating and enter the giveaway to win a copy of the book plus five sewing patterns of your own choice, visit my post about the blog tour. Thanks Gertie!

Hi everyone, Julie Eilber here to show you how to use piping in your garment to also functions as a facing!

I am, at the moment, swimming in fluffly, shimmery, very sheer, very slippery fabrics, a.k.a Organza - yikes!! As I am working, in my eag...

This is the ultra-thin version of the French Seam. It’s very useful if you’re making fine linen pieces (like coifs), or if you’re working with

Welcome to Sewing 101. We've made it through a years worth of sewing tips and inspiration. Today's contributor is Jenny from The Southern ...

Sewing a lettuce hem gives an attractive edge to your stretch fabric projects. Learn how to sew a lettuce hem without a serger or any tools.

Im sure Im not really showing you guys anything new with these DIY cupcake holders / pedestals....

This is a technique we've used in several tutorials. It's so popular, and so fast and easy, we made a separate tutorial so you can refer to it whenever you need it. It's a great way to finish the edge of a blanket, a table runner, a wall hanging – just about any flat square or rectangle. Admit it ... you rubbed that satin blanket binding on your cheek and sucked your thumb, didn't you? Oh, wait, that was me. The technique takes a little practice, because you have to make sure you are catching both sides of the binding as you stitch. But we have great confidence in you; you'll be binding everything in site in no time. At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board Seam together your bias tape or blanket binding tape to create a length that will go completely around your project with about 1" - 2" extra. For example, if you're making a baby blanket that is 34" x 34", you would need approximately 138". Starting in the middle of one side of your project, unfold your tape and slip it over the the raw, edge stitched seam. Work from the right side. Be very careful that your middle fold is right against the raw edge and your binding is even on both sides. Pin from your starting point to the first corner. Bring your project to your machine, and starting in the middle (where you started pinning), stitch the binding to the project, staying as close to the folded edge of the binding as you can. This is where that practice comes in; make sure you are catching both sides of the binding equally. Sew to the corner and stop. Back-tack to lock your seam. Remove the project from under the needle and clip your threads, but do not cut your binding. Fold a pleat in the corner to make a 45˚ angle. Pin. Encase the new side's raw edge with the binding, working your way to the next corner. Press and pin in place. Return to your machine, and drop the needle in near the end of your original line of stitching. Matching this first line of stitching, edgestitch around the corner and down the side to the next corner. Stop at the corner and back-tack. NOTE: It is important to remember to not just start on the new side. You need to drop your needle in at the end of your original line of stitching, stitch into the corner, pivot, and then stitch down the new edge. This way, your line of stitching around each corner will appear uninterrupted. Repeat these same steps at each corner. When you return to your starting point, tuck under the raw edge of the binding, match bottom edges and match your stitching line to finish. Press. If you want super flat and secure corners and ending overlap, you can slip stitch the corner folds and the tucked fold where the binding ends.

Ever had a pair of pants that were just too long? Almost everyone has. Many of my friends pay to have their pants hemmed shorter. While he...

For some reason, I always thought that making mitred corners using bias tape would be really tricky. It turns out it’s super simple! Now you have no reason to fear binding around corners̷…

I love to do my bindings on the bias. Especially stripes. It's like a candy cane wrapping around the edge of my quilt. So cute! Yes, it does take a little more fabric, but not much. Here is an easy trick for cutting your fabric [FAST] on the bias. You just have to figure out how to fold the fabric and then the cutting part is easy. First, lay down your fabric at an angle with the right side of the fabric facing DOWN. Take the bottom corner and fold it up so that its right edge is parallel with the right edge of the main fabric. Next, take the left corner of the fabric and fold it over so that it makes a "right angle" on the left side of the first fold. Then take the right corner of fabric and fold it over, making a "right angle" on the right side. Cut off the folds. Then cut your strips the desired widths you like. The strips will come out varying lengths. Use as many strips as you think you'll need. I usually pick out the longest strips and discard the ones that are really short. Cut off the angled ends. Connect the strips: lay two strips on top of each other {with right sides together} so that they're ends are perpendicular to each other. Draw a line from corner to corner and pin in place. Stitch on this line and then trim 1/4" away. Iron in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. In the middle of one side of your quilt, begin sewing the binding to the front of your quilt, lining up the raw edges. Leave about 5 inches unsewn at the beginning. Using 1/4" seam allowance, sew along the edge until you reach the first corner. To miter corners: sew up to 1/4" away from the first corner. Stitch in place a few times and then cut the threads. Rotate your quilt, getting ready to sew the binding on to the next side. You'll need to make this little flap. Flap it back and forth. Adjust it, if necessary, to make sure that its edges line up with the raw edges of the quilt in that corner, no matter which way it lays. Before sewing again make sure that the flap fold is lined up with the top edge of the quilt {the edge that already has binding sewn on} like you see in this picture. Position the needle 1/4" away from the corner. Stitch in place a few times and then sew down the entire length of that side of the quilt. Repeat the mitered corner process in each corner. When you get back to the side you started on, stop sewing about 8 inches from where you began. Flip up the end of the binding so that it is perpendicular to that side of the quilt. Bring the unsewn binding from the beginning across that ending piece of binding that you just flipped up. Keep the strips taut. If they're too loose, you'll have too much fabric there~ resulting in tucks in your binding. Pin the two pieces of binding together and sew on the diagonal. Trim off excess, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance. Line up the binding along that side of the quilt again and stitch over that part with a 1/4" seam allowance. You're almost done. The last thing you'll want to do is put on one of your favorite movies (one that you know by ♥ is best so that you don't have to look up very much) and begin hand stitching it down on the back side of your quilt. Here are a few more great tips on that. Now you're done. Grab a little cutie {like Miss M} and have some snuggle time together with your finished quilt! After all, that's what they're really for, right?

There are several ways to finish a neckline: you can either use a bias tape, invisible (or visible) binding or opt for a facing. But we decided to share with you this very simple band binding method which is a great (and quick) alternative to the traditional techniques. It consists in folding a band of...

Tulle, a netted fabric, is a common choice in the construction of formal gowns as well as for making tutus and wedding veils. Tulle is a fitting option for adding puff to the skirt of a dress or making a full-bodied tutu because of its stiff quality.

Come Cucire le Paillette Sulla Stoffa. Aggiungere delle paillette è un ottimo modo per dare un tocco in più a un vestito troppo piatto. Le paillette sono elementi fondamentali di molti costumi, da quelli per la danza a quelli del circo:...

My teenage daughter chose a full-length chiffon gown for her prom. She is only 5’1″ tall, so of course we need to hem it. HELP! What is the best way to go about hemming chiffon and othe…

Priceless: When someone shows you a clever way of doing something rather mundane and in a moment of awe and giddiness you realize, "I will finally like doing this!" I was always slipping and sliding around the sample room floor at work because of these small bits of weird 1" wide woven trim that looked like a coated ho

Bias tape, also referred to as bias binding, has many practical applications. It is often used in garment sewing, finishing the arm holes o...

No Knitting Required!!