When I shared my new travel cases last month, I received a lot of requests for a pattern, so I decided to write up a free tutorial for all of you to use. The tutorial bag is sort of a hybrid of the original two bags -- it's the size of the smaller one with the extended zipper of the second one. Because the bag is smaller, you can actually get by with just batting and fusible interfacing to strengthen the sides, but the pattern can easily be enlarged with the addition of a stronger layer of interfacing if you want to go bigger. Play around with it and have fun! I named this bag after the heroine in one of my favorite old movies, It Happened One Night starring Clark Gable and Claudette Colbert. Ellie Andrews (Colbert) is a spoiled little rich girl who recruits a wise cracking reporter (Gable) to help her get back to her gigolo groom against the wishes of her father. This charming falling-in-love-while-on-a-road-trip story was actually the first of its kind and is only one of three movies in history to receive all five of the big academy awards. Don't let the 1934 film date fool you -- the witty dialogue holds up surprisingly well for a modern audience. Give it a try on your next movie night... The final size of this bag is 7.5" square, but because it's also 4.5" deep, it can hold a ton of stuff. My sister let me enjoy a Yes to Carrots shopping spree for my birthday, and almost all of my goodies were able to fit inside with room to spare. This case makes a perfect cosmetics or toiletries bag and doubles as a cute little purse for a night out. A big thank you goes out to my friends at Riley Blake Fabrics who sent me these beautiful prints from the upcoming Vintage Happy collection by Lori Holt to use in this tutorial. I absolutely love these retro prints! This bag now has a permanent home with my dear friend Tamie, who actually deserved a gold medal for saying to me the other day, "Just drop your kids off at my house for a few hours so you can work on your book. No problem!" Did I mention that Tamie already has eight children? Okay, who's ready to sew? Materials: (2) 7 1/2 x 12" cotton print for the exterior main panel (2) 5 x 12" linen for the exterior accent (2) 12 x 12" cotton print for the bag lining (2) 12 x 12" fusible interfacing to reinforce the lining (I used Pellon Craft Fuse) (2) 12 x 12" batting to reinforce the exterior (you can attach regular batting with adhesive basting spray or just use fusible batting) (2) 2 1/2 x 13" linen for the handles (2) 2 1/2 x 13" fusible interfacing to reinforce the handles (again, I used Pellon Craft Fuse) (2) 1 1/2 x 3 1/2" linen for zipper tabs (1) 16" zipper coordinating thread Clover clips or clothespins *All seams are 1/4" unless otherwise noted. 1. Make the exterior. Stack a 7 1/2 x 12" exterior piece on top of a 5 x 12" linen accent piece with their right sides together, lining them up along a 12" side. Stitch along the 12" side and then press the seam open. Repeat with the other two exterior pieces. Fuse the batting to the wrong side of both these exterior pieces and then top stitch 1/4" below the seam on the linen accent piece. Cut 2 1/4" squares out of all four corners on both exterior pieces. 2. Make the lining. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the lining pieces. Cut 2 1/4" squares out of all four corners on both lining pieces. 3. Make the handles. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the linen. Fold the handle piece in half, press, and unfold it. Now fold the two halves in half to meet at the center line, press, and refold on the original fold line. Hold the long edges of the handle together with Clover clips or clothespins, however leave 2" on each short of the handle unfolded (see picture above). Sew 1/8" from the open side of each of the handles, stopping 2" from each short end and backstitching. Fold the short ends of the handles in 1/4" toward the wrong side of the fabric, press, and then fold another 1/4". Clip the short ends of the handles to keep the fold in place until you're ready to attach them. 4. Attach the handles to the exterior. You can change the placement of your handles depending on how narrow a handle loop you prefer. I pinned my handles to the exterior pieces about 1 1/4" from the side of the cutout square and 1 1/4" below the bottom of the cutout square in the corner of each exterior piece (see photo above). Use a pencil or fabric pen to mark a rectangle at the bottom of each end of the handle. Sew over the rectangle and then sew an X in the middle of each rectangle. Repeat with the other handle and other exterior piece. 5. Box the top corners of the bag. Press the two sides of one of the cutout squares in the upper corners of the exterior together (right sides of fabric touching), and sew a 1/4" seam along that line to sew them together (see the picture above). Repeat with the other cutout squares in the upper corners of the exterior and lining. Do NOT do this with the squares on the lower corners of either the exterior or lining -- those will be a little different. 6. Prepare the zipper. Trim your zipper down to exactly 16" in length, discarding the ends and making sure that your zipper pull is still in the middle. Mark the halfway point on your zipper (8" from the ends) and the halfway point on the top of the exterior and lining pieces (about 3 1/2" from the seams on either side of the top). 7. Make the zipper tabs. Fold the zipper tab pieces in half so that the short ends meet (wrong sides together) and press. Unfold and then fold the short ends in toward the middle about 1/2", pressing them in place. Place one of the short ends of the zipper right on the middle fold and refold the tab on the original fold, sandwiching the end of the zipper inside the tab. Stitch along the smaller fold of the tab, 1/8" from the zipper (see photo above). Repeat with the other tab on the other end of the zipper. 8. Attach the zipper. Pay careful attention to the photo above during this step. Stack the exterior (right side up), zipper (right side down), and lining (right side down) along the upper edge of the exterior and lining pieces. Match up the center dots on all three pieces and the boxed seams on the exterior and lining. Looking at the photo, you'll notice that this stack looks a little different because the upper corners are boxed, but it's the same concept as stack pieces for a regular zipper installation. Use Clover clips or clothespins to clip the edges in place and sew 1/4" from the edge of the zipper. Where you start sewing will depend on whether or not you want the zipper tabs to show on the sides of your bag. If you want them to show, start sewing about halfway down the zipper tab, all the way around the top opening and stopping about halfway down the other zipper tab. If you'd rather not see the tabs, start at the very top of the tab where it touches the zipper. Backstitch at both ends. Fold the exterior and lining pieces back from the zipper and press along the zipper (being careful not to melt the zipper itself). Repeat this step on the other side. It will be a little harder this time with the bulk of the other side of the bag getting in the way, but if you go carefully and clip securely, it should be fine. 9. Sew the lining and exterior together. This step sounds strange, but try to keep in mind the image of finishing a typical zipper pouch where you have the lining on one side of the zipper and the exterior on the other side. Refer to the photo as you go along. Unzip the bag at least halfway. Arrange the pieces of the bag so that the lining is sitting with right sides together and the exterior has right sides together as well. There will be an odd looking "crater" in the middle where the zipper is, but don't let it worry you. Start clipping or pinning the lining pieces together, making sure that the cutout squares in the lower corners match up. Do the same on the exterior side of the bag. 10. Start on the lower opening of the lining (between the two cutout squares) and follow the sewing path on the photo above, stitching 1/4" from the edge. Do NOT sew on the cutout squares -- we'll get to that next. The tricky part is where the lining and exterior meet, but don't let it throw you. The zipper tab will stick out a bit between the two sides of the bag. Just stitch along the lining and make a right angle at the turn to the exterior so that you maintain that 1/4" seam there as well. Travel all the way around until you get back to the lower edge of the lining, leaving a gap in the bottom of the lining for turning. Backstitch at both ends. 11. Box the bottom edges of the bag. Take one of the cutout squares in the lining or exterior and press the opposite corners together so that the side and bottom seams match up. Stitch 1/4" from the raw edges. Repeat on the other three cutout corners. 12. Put your hand in through the gap in the lining and through the zipper, grab the exterior, and carefully pull it out through the gap so that the bag is right side out. You can reach through the gap in the lining to poke out the bottom corners of the exterior. Tuck the raw edges down into the gap in the lining and sew the opening closed, about 1/8" from the folded edge. 13. Push the lining into the bag and press the bag as you are able. Fill it up with goodies and enjoy! If you have any questions about this tutorial, please feel free to send me an email at [email protected]. If you make one of your own, send me a photo or add it to the Inspired by Fabric Mutt flickr group. I'd love to see what you make! Linking up to Finish It Up Friday for the first time in ages!
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Today I'm introducing my newest pattern, the Boxy Clear Pouch. The pattern comes with instructions for two handy sizes. It features a see through pouch front and a sturdy box shaped base. This makes it a great storage pouch for...
Many of you have likely seen dancing about the Flickr pages these cute little "Dumpling" bags by designer Keyka Lou. She has provided directions and 2 free downloadable patterns via her blog. After seeing these cuties cropping up all over the place I thought I'd give them a try. (They looked quite tasty). There are 2 "models", the "Easier" and the "Harder" Dumpling. After making both- I felt they were constructed pretty much the same to me. The small pattern is small, but the directions are clear- Perhaps I'm missing something- hope not! Do take note of the measurements, because- the "harder one" is really small!! As I was pleasurably cutting out fabric and lining and interfacing, in the quiet of my corner of the basement, that I call my sewing room- I had a thought- that these dumplings would make a great set, especially in coordinating fabrics- but not a set of 2, a set of 4! So, wishing that I had some Matryoshka fabric to test my plan, but settling for the the DS Quilts fabrics I purchased this summer at Joann's but had not yet used, I pulled out 5 fabrics that I felt went pretty well together. I used the left most fabric as a lining. Fabrics- all DS Quilts for Joann's Then I did this. I layered the smallest dumpling pattern on top of the larger (so to speak) dumpling pattern and lowered the arc of the top curve so that the little pattern now nested within the larger pattern (with about 1/2" difference all around)- following me? If you have downloaded these patterns and cut them out, you will note that the top most point of the arc in the smaller (harder) dumpling meets the top of the arc in the larger (easier) dumpling. If you use one of those curvy rulers, you can easily make the arc smaller, which I did, and then I cut out another template. I then took the larger pattern and enlarged it 115%, I cut this out and set it aside. Going back to the larger "easier" original pattern I enlarged that 130%. I cut this out and set it aside. In the end- I had 4 dumpling bag patterns, each about 1/2" higher and wider than the next- more or less. Dumpling patterns showing how they gradually increase in size. A. is a modified version of the smaller of the 2 patterns. The next (kelly green) is the original easier dumpling pattern. The forest green- enlarged 115%, the outer white, enlarged 130%. (My master plan was to have them fit one inside the other). I used 4 of my DS fabrics for the outsides of the dumplings, and 1 for the inside- along with some other red and white fabrics I had on hand. Fabric and lining cut and interfaced (is that even a verb??) I ended up using 4 different blue zippers (they are all blue- right), because- 1. I had them on hand and 2. I couldn't find one blue that went uniformly well with the 4 different fabrics I had chosen. There is one zipper missing- it turned out to be the same color as the dominant blue in the left most fabric. All different, but all blue. Following the great directions given here- I put all 4 together and guess what- Largest (made from the pattern at 130%) Next largest (made from the pattern at 115%) Original "easier" dumpling- original pattern The smallest- modified from the original smaller "harder" dumpling pattern. Don't let the mountains in the background trick you into thinking they are big. I thought this was a great way to show the gradual increase in size. Measurements: front to back, w x h x d- all in inches 4.5 x 3 x 2.125 6 x 3.5 x 2.25 7 x 4 x 2.5 7.5 x 4.5 x 2.75 they fit perfectly one inside the other, just like those Russian Matryoshka Nesting Dolls- now if I could just get my hands on some of that cute Russian nesting doll fabric……...
Enjoy the style of narrow straps with the benefit of being durable. The bag is created with the Trace 'n Create Hobo Tote Template with an upgrade of double
Já postei esses saquinhos aqui e também fiz para ver como ficam: são bem simples, rápidos de fazer, pequenos e fofos demais depois de prontos. Fiz para presentear e realmente fizeram sucesso. Tempo de Natal e de presentes feitos em … Continue lendo →
The Sew Sweetness Cumberland Backpack sewing pattern, available in 2 different sizes. Size small is great for a small child/purse, large is for school!
Przedstawiamy jak krok po kroku uszyć kosmetyczkę/apteczkę. Zobacz jak ją skroić, w jaki sposób wszyć zamek i wypustkę. Na naszym blogu znajdziecie również wiele innych porad i inspiracji dotyczących szycia. Zapraszamy :)
* * * Encore quelques cartonnages réalisés tout au long de l'année dernière * * * Carnet bloc notes * * * * * * * * * * * * ( Un petit clic sur les photos pour les agrandir ) * * * Trieur * * * * * * * * * * * * Tissu carreaux : Mondial Tissus Skivertex...
A while back I got a pattern for the Sophia Carry All by Amy Butler from Sew, Mama, Sew (a really super cool fabric store online). Well, I’ve finally gotten around to at least cutting out the fabric. I’m going to try to take pictures as I go through it, but I’m only so good…
Le sac à dos RiutBag permet d'éviter les vol en voyage grâce à son système de fermeture révolutionnaire. Découvrez ses fonctionnalités bien spéciales!
At the time of this writing, we don’t know if Marc Jacobs’ show today for Louis Vuitton will be the last in his 16-year tenure as the creative leader of the incredibly powerful French brand.
Uszyj własną kosmetyczkę. Na naszym blogu znajdziesz opis jak zrobić to krok po kroku. Zapraszamy - www.etiblog.com.pl Na naszym blogu znajdziesz również informację jak używać i do czego stosować stopki i akcesoria krawieckie.
We Bet You Can’t Make Just One! You’re sure to find a multitude of uses for these charming baskets. They’ll be handy in the sewing room and elsewhere around the house. They’re also pretty for showcasing plants (add plastic liners) and can even be used as Easter baskets. They make wonderful gifts, too, filled with …
With my Wildlife Quilt all done and being used every night, I was able to get not 1, but 2 of these triple zip pouches finished for Debbie's of "A Quilter's Table" Triple Zip Along! As much fun as I had sewing these up, I had even more fun playing around with my zippers (I mentioned that I love zippers, right?). I haven't seen a "tutorial" about what I did, so here it is. You can really change up the look of your zippers by first taking them apart. It's important to HAVE THE SAME BRAND OF ZIPPERS before you do this. One of my thrift store zippers was packed in a different brand of zipper packaging, and when I tried it they curled up and wouldn't lie flat. You also need to start with zippers that are bigger than you want in the end, as they may not quite match up lenghth-wise in the end. First, you cut the ends off of the zippers. Unzip them entirely. Mix and match how you want them. You can use 2 different colors (this would be great for sports or school colors). You can put on a different colored pull. Put the zipper slide or pull first on one side of the tape. I added safety pins to give me a "handle" to grab onto. You could also use pieces of masking tape on the sides, or just try with nothing... sometimes they go together smoothly. Then thread the other side of the tape onto the pull, as you would a jacket, and pull. This is a bit tricky, as they won't fit together at first. If it's really stubborn, you can cut off a few of the bottom teeth on one side first. From here, you can proceed to sew with them as you would any other zipper. If you won't be using them right away, you may want to sew across the bottom to prevent the zipper from separating.
The Hot Mess Casserole Carrier This tutorial is brought to you by Sara at SewSweetness so once you are done checking out the tutori...
Yes! We have twist-locks! And now we even have a tutorial on how to use them!! As with magnetic snaps, these fittings were designed for use on leather, so I've included a few steps to ensure longevity when you use them on fabric. A BIG IMPORTANT NOTE BEFORE WE START: Make sure that the fabric is interfaced with fusible interfacing to secure the fibres of the fabric. A layer of wadding (fleece) or a thick non-woven interfacing (such as Fast2Fuse) is also needed on the bag to support the weight of the lock. These instructions begin at the point just before you attach the lining to the facing of the bag. 1. Place the flap of the bag in the closed position. 2. Find the horizontal centre of the flap and stick a pin through at the point where the twist-lock will sit. Push the pin through to the front of the bag body. 3. Mark (with a small dot) where the pin goes through the bag body. This is the vertical placement of the lock. (I use a Clover white marking pen on dark fabric. It disappears when you iron it, so it doesn't matter if you accidentally mark the wrong spot). 4. Use a tape-measure or ruler to check that the placement dot is centred horizontally as well, and then mark the fabric with a cross. 5. Using the twisty bit of the twist lock, mark where the prongs will go through the fabric, centred over the cross. (Apologies for appalling photos!!) 6. When you have to cut accurately through many layers of fabric and interfacing, it's easiest to use a knife of some sort, rather than scissors. I use my Olfa point cutter, but you can equally use a Stanley/utility knife or paper-craft scalpel. Put a cutting board or block of soft wood (pine or even balsa) inside the bag body, underneath the placement mark. Err on the side of too small (rather than too large) as you cut through all layers of the bag body on both of the 'prong' marks. You can always cut them larger later on, if needs be. 7. Use a scrap of thick interfacing (such as Fast2Fuse or Peltex) or several layers of fabric to make a support piece for the back of the clip - about a 2-3 inch square. Cut slits through the support piece as well. 8. Push the twisty bit (that's the technical term, isn't it...?) of the lock from the right side of fabric, through the slits in the bag body. 9. On the inside of the bag, push the support interfacing/fabric over the prongs (where they come through the fabric). 10. Place the metal plate over the back of the support interfacing and prongs, and then fold the prongs inward. If you can balance the twist lock on the table, a quick little tap with a hammer will help to flatten the prongs. TIP: If the sharp edges of the prongs are going to damage the bag lining, you might like to add a layer of Vilene S520 or Peltex on the back, as shown here for magnetic snaps. I haven't bothered with that here. Ok. That's the twisty bit IN! Onto the flap.... 11. Using the top plate as a guide, centre the hole over the placement mark on the front of the flap and trace it through with a fabric marker. 12. Again, you will have more contol over accuracy - when cutting through several layers of fabric - if you cut directly DOWNWARD (rather than with scissors). I use a saddlers punch to cut two holes near each end of the oval shape.... (a slit with a sharp utility knife through the length of the oval would also work). 13. Use the sharpest small scissors you own to snip away the oval shape, including the pen marks. (If you have punched the two holes, you can easily snip from the edge of one hole to the other. By doing this on both sides, you have created a rough oval shape, which will only need a little bit of tidying up). 14.Ok. This is where my neurotic perfectionism comes in....We've just cut through centre-front on the bag. We're going to place a feature fitting, which is also the major stress-point on the bag. What we don't want is a feature point becoming the first place to show wear-and tear. Likewise, we don't want nasty little raw ends poking out through the centre of that lovely, shiny front plate. I use a bit of Fray Stoppa around the cut edge of the hole to stabilise it. It makes the edge a bit stiff and easy to trim, and it stops further fraying. You may find another product that does the job (liquid embroidery stabiliser, perhaps?). Let the Fray Stoppa dry before proceeding. 15. Place the front plate on the table and line it up under the hole you've cut. Give the (stablised) fabric another trim, so that it sits neatly around the lip on the hole of the front plate (with no overhanging raw edges). 16. A wee drop of fast/clear-drying craft glue on the front plate (spread thinly so that it doesn't goop out around the edges) will hold the plate firmly to the fabric. Call me neurotic and ignore me if you will.... but I find this step makes it easier to put the back plate on (and it reduces the possibility of wear and tear between the fabric and metal). 17. Push the hole back over the lip of the front plate and press the fabric into the glue. It should stay nicely in place.... (You can do any touch-up trimming that might be needed to eliminate raw-edge overhang for good!) 18. Pop the back plate on and fold over the little tabs. Voila! Shiny, shiny and super-slick twist lock... that will never EVER pull through the fabric!!! They're now in the shop - HERE!
Olá pessoal essa semana fiz um lindo estojo para presentear minha sobrinha,já pensando na volta as aulas, então resolvi colocar o nome de...
Uszyj z nami piórnik (projekt DIY). Każdy etap przedstawiamy krok po kroku. Na naszej stronie znajdziesz również inne projekty szyciowe.
|| This listing is for a Digital Sewing Pattern and will not receive a physical copy. || The Megan Bucket Bag is a fresh take on the classic slouchy bag silhouette, but with a more pronounced cube shape. The lines are clean with side seams hidden by overlays and rivets. There are two different views whether you want to make the Megan out of one fabric, or if you would like to use a raw-edge accent fabric to add a little more depth to the look. With this pattern, you will learn different strap making techniques to take the bulk out of your fabric and gain ways to present a welt zipper pocket with plates or a cover. You will also learn an off-set bag technique for the overlays that won’t compromise your side seam stitching. There are plenty of options with snaps and the use of accent fabric for you to mix and match for your perfect bag! This is an intermediate bag pattern which assumes you already know how to install rivets and snaps. You can read up more about the pattern and see additional inspiration here: http://www.iloveyousew.com/megan-bucket-bag-sewing-pattern/ For complete Hardware Kits, visit here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/792043864/megan-bucket-bag-hardware-kits-supplies?ref=shop_home_active_2
Remember my old posting? I've decided to use oliver+s pattern for the bento bag :) but instead of using fabric, I used plastic canvas. I kinda like how they look...simple and happy :). When opened, it could be used as a place mat :) xoxo, www.liaspace.com
Na postagem anterior vocês viram o porta moedas triangular e que além de moedas poderia ser usada para guarda...
Fonte: http://crochedaanjinha.blogspot.com.br/2014_01_01_archive.html
Vamos aprender hoje como fazer esse útil porta garrafas/mamadeira? Ele é térmico, feito com etaflon, mas você não precisa costurá-lo, o que facilita muito nossas vidas, não é? Este não é um projeto…
