Here's an tutorial showing how to draft a sleeve pattern piece. It's easy to do even if you've tried before! Clear instructions and plenty of pictures.

When sewing clothes knowing how to take measurements accurately will result in clothes that fit right. This post tells you what, where and how to measure.

Tea and a Sewing Machine started in 2007 as a blog about sewing. In the beginning, I had no idea even what a blog was! I opened a shop on […]

Improve you sewing projects with these must know sewing hacks that work for beginners or pros. Speed up your work, save time!

It's easier than you might think to make a pair of trousers that fit perfectly! This tutorial shows how to simply draft a trouser pattern from scratch.

3 ways of how to finish a neckline: with facings, with bias tape and with a lining. Don't hem it; use these methods instead to make your dress amazing!

An easy tutorial for how to make a triangular pyramid Kindle pillow. No pattern required and no fiddly triangles! Step by step instructions with pictures.

If you've lost your creativity, it's horrible, but you can get it back! Here are lots of ideas for regaining your lost creativity.

A tutorial showing how to simply draft a bodice pattern piece, with plenty of pictures and tips to help you along the way!

How to fix a jammed sewing machine. Here is a checklist of easy things you can do to fix your sewing machine when it has jammed.

Nothing is more important for achieving a quality stitch than keeping the bobbin and feed-dog area cleaned and oiled. Below, you will find instructions on how to do that, for 4 different types of sewing machines. How to Clean and Oil the Bobbin and Feed Dog Area on an Oscillating Hook System: 1. You will need the brush that came with your machine, or a stiff paint brush or toothbrush. You will also need clear “sewing machine” oil. 2. Remove the bobbin case, take the bobbin out and clean the inside of the bobbin case with your brush. Inspect the tension spring and make sure there isn't any lint underneath it. 3. Remove, or release the retention ring and brush it off. 4. Remove the hook and brush it off, inside and out. Inspect for burrs on the point. These may be removed by sanding very gently, with a very fine sandpaper (500 grit). 5. Remove the needle plate. Inspect for burrs. These burrs may also be sanded off. 6. Then sweep all the lint out of the feed dog and bobbin area, from top to bottom. Brush it towards the front of the machine, to keep it out of the gears. 7. Inspect the race (the ledge that the hook sits on) for lint or embedded needle fragments. Use a big pin or small screw driver to remove any particles. 8. Put only 1 drop of oil on the race. 9. Put it back together. When you look into your bobbin area, you will see the “driver,” which creates a half-circle. The hook completes the other half of the circle, and just sits on the ledge; it doesn’t snap in. Replace the retention ring and needle plate. 10. Before you sew on your project, sew on a scrap of flannel to remove any excess oil. How to Clean and Oil the Bobbin and Feed Dog Area on a Drop-in Bobbin System: 1. You will need the brush that came with your machine, or a stiff paint brush or toothbrush. You will also need clear “sewing machine” oil. 2. Remove the bobbin. 3. Remove the needle plate. Some needle plates have a metal bobbin cover that slides forward, but doesn’t come all the way out. Inspect for burrs. These burrs may be sanded off with a very fine sandpaper — about 500 grit. 4. Remove the bobbin case. Singers have a retention finger that twists out of the way with a screwdriver. Others have screws that shouldn’t need to be unscrewed. The bobbin case needs to have a little side-to-side “play” to let the thread through at the spring. Brush off the inside and outside of the bobbin case. 5. Inspect the bobbin case for cuts, plastic fuzz or needle holes. A plastic bobbin case can be gently sanded with very fine sandpaper — about 500 grit. However, sometimes sanding will just make things worse. You may try to remove a burr with a razor blade, which may only be marginally effective. Replace the bobbin case if it is too badly damaged. 6. Inspect the hook for burrs. The hook is the pointed part of the ring that rotates around the bobbin case. It’s important to sand any burrs off of the hook—only with a very fine sand paper. 7. Sweep all the lint out of the feed dog and bobbin area. 8. Put a drop of oil in the center hole. Some will have a “wick,” in the center hole, that looks like a tiny stick of felt. It will keep the oil going where it’s needed. If there is a moving ring around the center hole, put a drop of oil between the stationary part and the rotating part. 9. Check the spring. When this spring is bent out of shape, the machine will make a loud thumping sound. You may try to gently bend it back into shape, if it needs it. Or it may be necessary to replace it. 10. Put it back together. The bobbin case sits on a ledge in the hole, with the tension screw to the front. Singer bobbin cases sit on a ledge, then put the retention finger back into place. Remember that there should be a little “play” to let the thread go through at the spring. Replace the needle plate. 11. Before you sew on your project, sew on a scrap of flannel to remove any excess oil. How to Clean and Oil the Bobbin and Feed Dog Area of a Stationary Rotary Hook System: 1. You will need the brush that came with your machine, or a stiff paint brush or toothbrush. You will also need clear “sewing machine” oil. 2. Remove the bobbin case, take the bobbin out and clean the inside of the bobbin case with your brush. 3. Remove the needle plate. Inspect for burrs on the needle plate and also on the point of the hook. These burrs may be gently sanded off with a very fine sandpaper — about 500 grit. 4. Sweep all the lint out of the feed dog and bobbin area, from top to bottom. There may be threads tangled behind the hook assembly, which should be removed. You may need to remove the throat plate to get to that area. However, not all machines have a throat plate that is removable. Please don’t remove the front or back of your machine. Use tweezers and a hooked seam ripper to remove these threads, only if that area is accessible. This is something you may want your sewing machine mechanic to do. 5. Put a drop of oil in between the part of the hook that rotates, and the part that is stationary. Then put another drop on the center post. 6. Put it back together. Replace the throat plate and/or needle plate. 7. Before you sew on your project, sew on a scrap of flannel to remove any excess oil. How to Clean and Oil the Bobbin and Feed Dog Area of a Floating Rotary Hook System: 1. You will need the brush that came with your machine, or a stiff paint brush or toothbrush. You will also need clear “sewing machine” oil. 2. Remove the bobbin case, take the bobbin out and clean the inside of the bobbin case with your brush. 3. Remove the screws that hold the retention piece in place. Remove the retention piece and brush it clean. 4. Remove the hook and brush it clean, inside and out. Inspect for burrs or a broken point. The rough spot may be gently sanded off with a very fine sandpaper -- about 500 gritt. 5. Remove the needle plate, or throat plate if it is removable. Inspect for burrs on the needle plate. These burrs may also be gently sanded off with a very fine sandpaper. 6. Sweep all the lint out of the feed dog and bobbin area, from top to bottom. There may be threads tangled behind the hook assembly, which should be removed. You may need to remove the throat plate to get to that area. However, not all machines have a throat plate that is removable. Please don’t remove the front or back of your machine. Use tweezers and a hooked seam ripper to remove these threads, only if that area is accessible. This is something you may want your sewing machine mechanic to do. 7. Put a drop of oil on the center post only. Do not put oil on the plastic driver. 8. Put it back together. You’ll need to tilt the machine back so you’ll have gravity on your side. Replace the hook. The back of the hook has a nub that fits into a dent in the driver. Replace the retention piece, throat plate and/or needle plate. 9. Before you sew on your project, sew on a scrap of flannel to remove any excess oil.

French seams are the best way to finish seams on delicate fabrics and they're easy to do! FInd out here in this step by step picture tutorial.

Recently I've done a little free motion machine embroidery, or thread sketching. From some of the comments I received it's clear that this...

This is a costume made for my daughter last Halloween. It is so simple to make - but you have to be able to run up a seam on a sewing machine. What you

Drafting your own patterns is easier than you might think! This step by step tutorial walks you through drafting an A line skirt from your measurements.

3 ways of how to finish a neckline: with facings, with bias tape and with a lining. Don't hem it; use these methods instead to make your dress amazing!

Tiny fibers and dust accumulate inside your machine. Learn how to keep everything running smooth and when to clean your sewing machine.

Learn how to make a v-neck t-shirt with this easy sewing tutorial and free pattern in women's size large. V-neck t-shirt pattern.

It's so easy to use this technique for gathering up necklines, cuffs, or waistbands while keeping the stretch. And you won't believe how professional it looks!

A great how to for beginning sewers who want to learn how to applique using their sewing machine! Check out the step by step instructions. Pictures included!

It's very easy to make a floaty top from a scarf! All you need is a pretty scarf, some bias binding and an hour! Read the tutorial here.

When sewing clothes knowing how to take measurements accurately will result in clothes that fit right. This post tells you what, where and how to measure.

Discover the ultimate sewing machine presser feet cheat sheet and learn the names and uses of all the variety of presser feet out there.

Learn how to sew your crochet items to fabric using your sewing machine to make it fast and easy. Here are my best tips and tricks!

Whatever you are sewing, it can be difficult choosing the right kind of fabric for your project. It’s hard enough when you need for a lightweight cotton! There are so […]

I know that for many of us, sewing on binding is our least favorite part of a project. It usually comes at the end after all the other hard work and investment, and is a very visible part of the end r

Note to Pinners: THIS FRAME DOES NOT WORK!!!! Please read my comments at the bottom of this article. If you've seen or heard of the Flynn Multi Quilting Frame, you'll know that it costs about $180.00. After careful study, I came up with my own version that is much cheaper. Ask your local lumber yard or hardware store if they have any scraps close to the size you need and have them cut for you. You may want to start with 24" pipes instead of 48" for small projects until you get the hang of using this frame. The longer the rods are, the more flexible they become. For anything longer than 48", you will want furniture grade PVC or wooden dowels which are more rigid. PVC clamps are available from flexpvc.com. (1) 3/4x4x24" Solid pine shelving (3) 48" lengths 1" I.D. Charlotte pipe (2) 18" lengths 3" I.D. Sewer PVC (6) 1" PVC End caps (6) 1" PVC Clamps (4) 24" strips of 1/2" ribbon (8) Small safety pins (6) 1/4 x 2" Carriage bolts (6) 1/4" Wing nuts (6) 1/4" Machine nuts (12) 5/8" washers 1/4" Open end wrench PVC glue Vise clamps, large and small Shop vise (optional) Skill saw Jig saw Drill 1/4" drill bit 1/4" cutting bit Sheet of poster board Pencil Ruler Soda can Scissors Craft Bond spray adhesive Use the poster board to make two templates. Measure and mark two rectangles 18" long x 2-1/2" wide. Use the top of a soda can to round off the ends inside the marks. Erase the pencil marks outside the round ends. From one end, measure 1-1/2" and mark with an X. Measure 2-1/2" from that mark and make another X. Measure 1-1/2" from that mark and draw a 1-1/2" line. From the opposite end, measure 2" and mark with an X. Measure 1-3/4" from that mark and draw a 1-1/2" line 3/8" from the edge. Do the same on the other template. Cut out the templates and glue them beside each other on the wood board. Position them so each edge is flush with the edge of the board on either side leaving space between them for cutting. Use a jig saw to cut the rounded ends first. Then, cut the straight lines with the skill saw. You'll never make a cutting mistake using paper templates. Use a small vise clamp to secure the end caps. Make sure the clamp is holding the bottom of the cap, not the top so you don't crush it. Sit in a solid chair with the clamp between your legs. Hold the clamp steady and drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the cap. Repeat for all the others. It's best to use a drill press for this, if you have one. Lay the boards on top of one another, making sure the hole marks are lined up. Clamp them to a bench and drill the holes. Drill holes just inside the marks at each end of the straight lines. Change to the cutting bit and bore out from hole to hole. Assembly Place a washer and bolt in each end cap hole. Place a washer and nut onto the bolt and tighten with a wrench. Get it as tight as you can. Swirl a bit of pvc glue around the inside of the pipe. Insert the end cap. Let the glue cure. Place a washer on the bolt. Slide the bolt through a hole in the board. Place another washer on the bolt. Place a wing nut on the bolt and tighten. Repeat for the other two pipes. Tension Bands Cut a slit through one end of the ribbon. Slip the cut end through the slit in the wood. Slide the other end through the cut and pull it tight. Make sure the ribbon is under the board edge and not over it. Repeat with the other three ribbons. Different projects may require different lengths of ribbon. It's better to have them too long than too short. Mounting Center the backing fabric on the rod. Secure the fabric to the rods with the PVC clamps. The backing is wound around the first of the two rods on the end. Notice how the fabric is oriented. The wrong side faces up and wraps around the rod from the bottom. Loosen the wing nuts. Roll the backing fabric onto the rod, keeping it straight and tight. Make sure there is enough fabric on the end to wrap around the top rod. Tighten the wing nuts and move this fabric out of the way. Roll up the batting making sure there is enough on the end to wrap around the top rod. Move the batting back out of the way. Secure the fabric to the rods with the PVC clamps. The top is wound around the second of the two rods on the end. Notice how the fabric is oriented. The right side faces up and wraps around the rod from the bottom. Loosen the wing nuts. Roll the top fabric onto the rod, keeping it straight and tight. Make sure there is enough fabric on the end to wrap around the top rod. Tighten the wing nuts and move this fabric out of the way. Replace the backing fabric. Attach a safety pin close to the edge of the fabric. Slide the ribbon through the closed pin and tighten. The pin will pop open if you pull too much. Secure the ribbon with another pin. Repeat for the other three ribbons. The backing fabric and batting are wound around from the bottom. The top is placed over the ends of the batting and backing. Clamp the ends to the rod. Loosen the wing nuts on the top rod and roll the quilt to create tension. Tighten the wing nuts. The rolled batting rests between the first and second rods. The finished quilting is wound around the top rod that goes under the machine throat. Using the Frame Leave the extension table on your sewing machine if it has one. Turn your sewing machine so the throat is behind you rather than to the right. This orientation will take some getting used to. Place the 3" PVC pipes on either side of the machine. They balance the frame and allow freedom of movement in all directions. Remove the foot attachment from the machine. Remove the board and tension bands from one side. Slide the quilt under the foot arm. Don't try to slide the rod under the foot arm; it won't fit. Replace the board and tension bands. Replace the foot attachment and you're ready to stitch your quilt. Roll up the quilt on the top rod as you finish each area. This frame can also be used as a stretching frame and for hand quilting. It may be expanded and used for long arm quilting with your home machine as well. Assessment I tried it out and the only thing I like about it is being able to roll my quilt and not have any wrinkles on the back. The tension bands weren't necessary. The rods provide enough tension to keep the backing tight. It's heavy. There is so much weight on the 3" pipes that it renders them useless, even though they are required for supporting the frame. The frame has to be lifted while stitching to prevent drag. That leads to the other problem of the frame not having enough support. It lacks balance. When the needle is on one end or the other of the quilt, the frame tilts in the opposite direction. The machine and frame has to rest on a long table for adequate support. The 3" pipes do not roll smoothly which causes skips and uneven stitches that lack uniformity. It needs stability. Lastly, it isn't fair to call this a free motion frame because the movement is so limited. There is only 3-1/4" of space between the pipe and the needle on my machine. It is best used for narrow continuous line stitching. I recommend that you skip this one and move on to my Rolling Quilt Frame.

Sewing tricks from professional seamstresses. Your sewing is about to get easier and more efficient. Grab a project to test them out!

Unlock Your Creative Potential! Be your own expert at thread sketching, thread painting and artful appliqué. Use these tutorials to learn how to get started in creative free motion stitching and art quilting, and take your work to a new level. Begin an exhilarating journey into the world of thread sketching and thread painting –

Sewing is a great thing! We like sewing because you can make whatever you want, and the piece you are sewing it, you make it how you like. Everything you need to start sewing is to have a sewing machine, the needed materials, and ideas about what you want to…

Sewing clothes without a pattern is both easy and fun. Read these tips and make clothes that fit without the faff or expense of a commercial pattern!

make a practical project to protect your work surface...

Welcome to Tea and a Sewing Machine’s first ever sewalong! I’m very excited about it and I hope you’ll join in. Over 4 weeks starting on the 1st May, I’ll […]

Do you use your serger sewing machine to its fullest? Are you using it for more than just clean finishing edges? To ensure you are getting the full value from

Learn how to sew plain seams, french seams and run and fell seams. Choose the best way of finishing seams to make your stuff amazing! Clear steps with pics.

How to put in a zip the easy way. Step by step instructions with photos.

THE SLOW STITCHING MOVEMENT! KNITTING! CROCHET! CROSS STITCH! NEEDLEPOINT! WEAVING! QUILTING! Letting go of Perfect and Jumping into Creative: 10 Tips for Busting Your Blocks YOKE DU YOUR …

How to make an box cushion with piping. Easy, no zips and I'll show you how to make the piping as well as how to turn an ordinary cushion into a box cushion

A reference guide on how to sew with knit fabrics. Tips for sewing with knits, along with resources and books about knit fabrics.