She's A Betty Bonnet Isn't she, though? When's the last time I mentioned how much I love Malabrigo yarn? Let's be honest: I probably bored my kids with that knowledge earlier this morning. However, just because I'm a broken record doesn't mean that you can't make this super-sweet bonnet for yourself or a loved one (and I'll even let you use a chunky weight fiber that isn't Malabrigo if you really insist). My only note is that, while I finished this bad boy with just one skein of the Mecha, or 130 yards, it was a close call so you may need slightly more yarn to complete yours. But don't worry - this fancifully-finished design (check out the back below!) will be worth it either way. Yarn: Malabrigo Mecha (100% Merino Superwash Wool; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #809 Solis - 1 - 2 skeins A closer view of the back finish. It's different, no? Needles: Straight needles in size US 10.5, one 16" circular needle in size US 11 needle, and one set of double pointed needles in size US 11 Notions: Tapestry needle, 5 stitch markers Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 11 needles So let's make a hat, then! First, then, since we'll begin by knitting flat, go ahead and use your size 10.5 needles to cast on 80 stitches loosely. Then we'll knit some ribbing, as follows: Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): * p1, k2, p1; rep from * Ribbing Row 2: * k1, p2, k1 * Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 1.5" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size US 11 needle (yes, it's circular, but we're still working flat!). Then we'll work one marker placement row, as follows: Marker Placement Row (wrong side): p8, place marker, p24, place marker, p16, place marker, p24, place marker, p8 And once that's done, we'll begin our pattern as well as some decreases, which you'll find below. You'll need the following notation to continue (and you can find videos for the twists below as well): rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right) And once you have that down, we'll continue like so: Row 1 (right side): (lt) 4 times, slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, (rt) 4 times (-2 stitches) Row 2: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Row 3: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1 slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 (-2 stitches) Row 4: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Knit rows 1 - 4 three times, and then knit rows 1 - 3 once more. Now you should have 16 stitches remaining between your first and second markers, and 64 stitches in total. We're going to join the hat in the round at this point, which your yarn should be in position for since you've left off at the end of a right side row. Anyway, then, join piece in round and place row marker - as a note, you'll probably either want to join by swapping your first and last stitches or reinforce this join when you're done with the hat. Either way, we'll continue as follows: Row 1: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 2: (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times Row 3: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 4: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 Knit rows 1 - 4 once or twice (I knit them twice; however, for a slightly shallower hat, once would be plenty) and then knit row 1 again. Then we'll begin our decrease rows, as follows: Decrease Row 1: (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times, (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times (60 stitches) Decrease Row 2: knit Decrease Row 3: k1, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k1 (56 stitches) Decrease Row 4: knit Decrease Row 5: (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice (48 stitches) Decrease Row 6: knit You'll probably want to switch to your dpns about now... Decrease Row 7: k1, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k2, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k1 (44 stitches) Decrease Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (40 stitches) Decrease Row 9: lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt (36 stitches) Decrease Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (32 stitches) Decrease Row 11: k1, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k2, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k1 (24 stitches) Decrease Row 12: lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt, lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt (16 stitches) Complete decrease rows 1 - 12. Then, knit across the first 4 stitches of your round. Next, transfer the following 8 stitches to one dpn for grafting, and the final 4 of the round, plus the 4 you just knit, to a second dpn. Using the Kitchener stitch, graft together these remaining 16 stitches. Tuck in ends and block, if desired. Make tassels and affix to bottom corners of hat. Wear proudly, even if you're a Veronica instead.
She's A Betty Bonnet Isn't she, though? When's the last time I mentioned how much I love Malabrigo yarn? Let's be honest: I probably bored my kids with that knowledge earlier this morning. However, just because I'm a broken record doesn't mean that you can't make this super-sweet bonnet for yourself or a loved one (and I'll even let you use a chunky weight fiber that isn't Malabrigo if you really insist). My only note is that, while I finished this bad boy with just one skein of the Mecha, or 130 yards, it was a close call so you may need slightly more yarn to complete yours. But don't worry - this fancifully-finished design (check out the back below!) will be worth it either way. Yarn: Malabrigo Mecha (100% Merino Superwash Wool; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #809 Solis - 1 - 2 skeins A closer view of the back finish. It's different, no? Needles: Straight needles in size US 10.5, one 16" circular needle in size US 11 needle, and one set of double pointed needles in size US 11 Notions: Tapestry needle, 5 stitch markers Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 11 needles So let's make a hat, then! First, then, since we'll begin by knitting flat, go ahead and use your size 10.5 needles to cast on 80 stitches loosely. Then we'll knit some ribbing, as follows: Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): * p1, k2, p1; rep from * Ribbing Row 2: * k1, p2, k1 * Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 1.5" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size US 11 needle (yes, it's circular, but we're still working flat!). Then we'll work one marker placement row, as follows: Marker Placement Row (wrong side): p8, place marker, p24, place marker, p16, place marker, p24, place marker, p8 And once that's done, we'll begin our pattern as well as some decreases, which you'll find below. You'll need the following notation to continue (and you can find videos for the twists below as well): rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right) And once you have that down, we'll continue like so: Row 1 (right side): (lt) 4 times, slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, (rt) 4 times (-2 stitches) Row 2: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Row 3: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1 slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 (-2 stitches) Row 4: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Knit rows 1 - 4 three times, and then knit rows 1 - 3 once more. Now you should have 16 stitches remaining between your first and second markers, and 64 stitches in total. We're going to join the hat in the round at this point, which your yarn should be in position for since you've left off at the end of a right side row. Anyway, then, join piece in round and place row marker - as a note, you'll probably either want to join by swapping your first and last stitches or reinforce this join when you're done with the hat. Either way, we'll continue as follows: Row 1: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 2: (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times Row 3: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 4: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 Knit rows 1 - 4 once or twice (I knit them twice; however, for a slightly shallower hat, once would be plenty) and then knit row 1 again. Then we'll begin our decrease rows, as follows: Decrease Row 1: (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times, (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times (60 stitches) Decrease Row 2: knit Decrease Row 3: k1, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k1 (56 stitches) Decrease Row 4: knit Decrease Row 5: (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice (48 stitches) Decrease Row 6: knit You'll probably want to switch to your dpns about now... Decrease Row 7: k1, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k2, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k1 (44 stitches) Decrease Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (40 stitches) Decrease Row 9: lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt (36 stitches) Decrease Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (32 stitches) Decrease Row 11: k1, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k2, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k1 (24 stitches) Decrease Row 12: lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt, lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt (16 stitches) Complete decrease rows 1 - 12. Then, knit across the first 4 stitches of your round. Next, transfer the following 8 stitches to one dpn for grafting, and the final 4 of the round, plus the 4 you just knit, to a second dpn. Using the Kitchener stitch, graft together these remaining 16 stitches. Tuck in ends and block, if desired. Make tassels and affix to bottom corners of hat. Wear proudly, even if you're a Veronica instead.
Marcia Mancilla, Diseñadora, decidió volver a su Chiloe natal donde comenzó a elaborar tapices, caminos de mesa, bufandas y abrigos , se destacan poe aunar los gustos contemporáneos con las tradiciones de manufacturas chilotas ,especialmente las de l teñido vegetal de lanas , en que el amarillo se obtiene de la corteza de mechay , los tonos rosa de la corteza de ulmo , y el naranjo de la barba de pato.
She's A Betty Bonnet Isn't she, though? When's the last time I mentioned how much I love Malabrigo yarn? Let's be honest: I probably bored my kids with that knowledge earlier this morning. However, just because I'm a broken record doesn't mean that you can't make this super-sweet bonnet for yourself or a loved one (and I'll even let you use a chunky weight fiber that isn't Malabrigo if you really insist). My only note is that, while I finished this bad boy with just one skein of the Mecha, or 130 yards, it was a close call so you may need slightly more yarn to complete yours. But don't worry - this fancifully-finished design (check out the back below!) will be worth it either way. Yarn: Malabrigo Mecha (100% Merino Superwash Wool; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #809 Solis - 1 - 2 skeins A closer view of the back finish. It's different, no? Needles: Straight needles in size US 10.5, one 16" circular needle in size US 11 needle, and one set of double pointed needles in size US 11 Notions: Tapestry needle, 5 stitch markers Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 11 needles So let's make a hat, then! First, then, since we'll begin by knitting flat, go ahead and use your size 10.5 needles to cast on 80 stitches loosely. Then we'll knit some ribbing, as follows: Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): * p1, k2, p1; rep from * Ribbing Row 2: * k1, p2, k1 * Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 1.5" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size US 11 needle (yes, it's circular, but we're still working flat!). Then we'll work one marker placement row, as follows: Marker Placement Row (wrong side): p8, place marker, p24, place marker, p16, place marker, p24, place marker, p8 And once that's done, we'll begin our pattern as well as some decreases, which you'll find below. You'll need the following notation to continue (and you can find videos for the twists below as well): rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right) And once you have that down, we'll continue like so: Row 1 (right side): (lt) 4 times, slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, (rt) 4 times (-2 stitches) Row 2: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Row 3: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1 slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 (-2 stitches) Row 4: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Knit rows 1 - 4 three times, and then knit rows 1 - 3 once more. Now you should have 16 stitches remaining between your first and second markers, and 64 stitches in total. We're going to join the hat in the round at this point, which your yarn should be in position for since you've left off at the end of a right side row. Anyway, then, join piece in round and place row marker - as a note, you'll probably either want to join by swapping your first and last stitches or reinforce this join when you're done with the hat. Either way, we'll continue as follows: Row 1: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 2: (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times Row 3: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 4: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 Knit rows 1 - 4 once or twice (I knit them twice; however, for a slightly shallower hat, once would be plenty) and then knit row 1 again. Then we'll begin our decrease rows, as follows: Decrease Row 1: (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times, (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times (60 stitches) Decrease Row 2: knit Decrease Row 3: k1, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k1 (56 stitches) Decrease Row 4: knit Decrease Row 5: (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice (48 stitches) Decrease Row 6: knit You'll probably want to switch to your dpns about now... Decrease Row 7: k1, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k2, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k1 (44 stitches) Decrease Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (40 stitches) Decrease Row 9: lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt (36 stitches) Decrease Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (32 stitches) Decrease Row 11: k1, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k2, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k1 (24 stitches) Decrease Row 12: lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt, lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt (16 stitches) Complete decrease rows 1 - 12. Then, knit across the first 4 stitches of your round. Next, transfer the following 8 stitches to one dpn for grafting, and the final 4 of the round, plus the 4 you just knit, to a second dpn. Using the Kitchener stitch, graft together these remaining 16 stitches. Tuck in ends and block, if desired. Make tassels and affix to bottom corners of hat. Wear proudly, even if you're a Veronica instead.
Swiss Check Scarf If I had one inspiration for this scarf, it was the planned color pooling pictures that keep popping up in my Facebook feed (dude, I follow a lot of knitters). If I had two inspirations for this scarf, it was PCP (such a bad acronym!) and laziness; the idea of fiddling with a yarn and a design until I had nailed a certain color pattern seemed about as appealing to me as taking all three of my children to the dentist by myself for concurrent appointments. So I went with a more relaxed take on the same theme; namely, a slip stitch color pattern worked with two skeins of the same variegated yarn that still creates a fancy pattern but requires much less precision! :) Yarn: Lang Yarns Viva (100% Merino Wool; 120 yards [110 meters]/50 grams); #0020 - four skeins A closer look at the Swiss Check. So Swiss, no? Needles: One pair of straight needles in size US 8 Notions: Tapestry needle Gauge: 19 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette And now that we've gotten the basics down, let's make a scarf! And let's begin by talking some shop: specifically, addressing the fact that this scarf is worked with two skeins of your variegated yarn at once, and that even though they're the SAME DARN COLOR (or combination of colors I suppose), I will be calling one skein A and one skein B. Of course, that's because they need to be worked alternately in order to produce the slip stitch color pattern (and for that reason I also recommend that you make sure to begin the slip stitch pattern with a portion of your skein B ball that does not match your skein A ball at whichever point in the dye you're in after the edging rows). So let's proceed as follows: Using your skein A yarn (aka any whichever one of your skeins you pick up first), cast on 39 stitches loosely and work the edging rows as follows: Edging Row 1 (right side): purl Edging Row 2: knit Edging Row 3: purl Edging Row 4: knit Edging Row 5: purl Work these 5 rows, and then we'll begin our main pattern, which is Swiss Check from page 90 of Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and goes as follows. But before you begin, take note: the main color pattern is a slip stitch pattern, so you need to leave your yarn behind the slipped stitches quite loose. HOWEVER, the three edge stitches make a faux i-cord, so when you're directed to slip the first three and last three stitches of the row you can cinch 'em as tight as you like (without, of course, accidentally cinching together the rest of the stitches in the row!). And with that, we'll proceed like so: Row 1 (wrong side): using skein A, purl Row 2: using skein B, slip 3 stitches purlwise with yarn in back (sl3 wyib), k1, sl1 wyib, * k1, sl3 wyib; rep from * until you have 6 stitches left in your row; then, k1, sl1 wyib, k1, sl3 wyib Row 3: using skein B, p4, * p3, slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front (sl1 wyif) * until you have 7 stitches left in row; then, p7 Row 4: using skein A, sl3 wyib, k2, * sl1 wyib, k3 * until you have 6 stitches left in row; then sl1 wyib, k2, sl3 wyib Row 5: using skein A, purl Row 6: using skein B, * sl3 wyib, k1 * until you have 3 stitches left in row; then sl3 wyib Row 7: using skein B, p5, * sl1 wyif, p3 * until you have 6 stitches left in row; then sl1 wyif, p5 Row 8: using skein A, sl3 wyib, k4, * sl1, k3, * until you have 4 stitches left in row; then, k1, sl3 wyib Knit rows 1 - 8 until scarf measures roughly 56" and you've just finished row 1 or row 5 of the pattern. Clip your skein B yarn, and we'll work another edging in skein A as follows: Edging Row 1 (right side): purl Edging Row 2: knit Edging Row 3: purl Edging Row 4: knit Edging Row 5: purl Complete edging rows 1 - 5 and bind off loosely. Block scarf, and finish with 4 roughly 7" tassels, one affixed at each end of the edging! :) And a wrong side pic, for good measure!
SPU:LEGOU99CFF3Sleeve Type:Long SleeveThickness:Mid-weightMaterial:Cotton-blendNeckline:HoodieOccasion:DailyStyle:CasualTheme:Winter,FallColor:Deep Gray,Yellow,Green,Black,Camel,Gray,Blue,RedSize:S,M,L,XL,XXL,3XL,4XL,5XL,6XL,7XL,8XLLength (cm):S:130, M:131, L:132, XL:133, XXL:134, 3XL:135, 4XL:136, 5XL:137, 6XL:138, 7XL:139, 8XL:140Bust (cm):S:100, M:105, L:110, XL:115, XXL:120, 3XL:125, 4XL:130, 5XL:135, 6XL:140, 7XL:145, 8XL:150Size ChartSizeLengthBustcminchcminchS13051.210039.4M13151.610541.3L1325211043.3XL13352.411545.3XXL13452.812047.23XL13553.112549.24XL13653.513051.25XL13753.913553.16XL13854.314055.17XL13954.714557.18XL14055.115059.1
She's A Betty Bonnet Isn't she, though? When's the last time I mentioned how much I love Malabrigo yarn? Let's be honest: I probably bored my kids with that knowledge earlier this morning. However, just because I'm a broken record doesn't mean that you can't make this super-sweet bonnet for yourself or a loved one (and I'll even let you use a chunky weight fiber that isn't Malabrigo if you really insist). My only note is that, while I finished this bad boy with just one skein of the Mecha, or 130 yards, it was a close call so you may need slightly more yarn to complete yours. But don't worry - this fancifully-finished design (check out the back below!) will be worth it either way. Yarn: Malabrigo Mecha (100% Merino Superwash Wool; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #809 Solis - 1 - 2 skeins A closer view of the back finish. It's different, no? Needles: Straight needles in size US 10.5, one 16" circular needle in size US 11 needle, and one set of double pointed needles in size US 11 Notions: Tapestry needle, 5 stitch markers Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 11 needles So let's make a hat, then! First, then, since we'll begin by knitting flat, go ahead and use your size 10.5 needles to cast on 80 stitches loosely. Then we'll knit some ribbing, as follows: Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): * p1, k2, p1; rep from * Ribbing Row 2: * k1, p2, k1 * Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 1.5" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size US 11 needle (yes, it's circular, but we're still working flat!). Then we'll work one marker placement row, as follows: Marker Placement Row (wrong side): p8, place marker, p24, place marker, p16, place marker, p24, place marker, p8 And once that's done, we'll begin our pattern as well as some decreases, which you'll find below. You'll need the following notation to continue (and you can find videos for the twists below as well): rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right) And once you have that down, we'll continue like so: Row 1 (right side): (lt) 4 times, slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, (rt) 4 times (-2 stitches) Row 2: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Row 3: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1 slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 (-2 stitches) Row 4: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Knit rows 1 - 4 three times, and then knit rows 1 - 3 once more. Now you should have 16 stitches remaining between your first and second markers, and 64 stitches in total. We're going to join the hat in the round at this point, which your yarn should be in position for since you've left off at the end of a right side row. Anyway, then, join piece in round and place row marker - as a note, you'll probably either want to join by swapping your first and last stitches or reinforce this join when you're done with the hat. Either way, we'll continue as follows: Row 1: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 2: (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times Row 3: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 4: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 Knit rows 1 - 4 once or twice (I knit them twice; however, for a slightly shallower hat, once would be plenty) and then knit row 1 again. Then we'll begin our decrease rows, as follows: Decrease Row 1: (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times, (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times (60 stitches) Decrease Row 2: knit Decrease Row 3: k1, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k1 (56 stitches) Decrease Row 4: knit Decrease Row 5: (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice (48 stitches) Decrease Row 6: knit You'll probably want to switch to your dpns about now... Decrease Row 7: k1, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k2, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k1 (44 stitches) Decrease Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (40 stitches) Decrease Row 9: lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt (36 stitches) Decrease Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (32 stitches) Decrease Row 11: k1, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k2, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k1 (24 stitches) Decrease Row 12: lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt, lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt (16 stitches) Complete decrease rows 1 - 12. Then, knit across the first 4 stitches of your round. Next, transfer the following 8 stitches to one dpn for grafting, and the final 4 of the round, plus the 4 you just knit, to a second dpn. Using the Kitchener stitch, graft together these remaining 16 stitches. Tuck in ends and block, if desired. Make tassels and affix to bottom corners of hat. Wear proudly, even if you're a Veronica instead.
Un blog cristiano con contenido para inspirarte a vivir apasionado por Cristo.
Hello everyone! As we all know, AC:NL was just released in North America a few days ago, and is going to be released in Europe in only two more days (Hang in there girls. . ) I thought it would be nice to have a thread sharing designs that you have made, or awesome ones you have seen on the…
She's A Betty Bonnet Isn't she, though? When's the last time I mentioned how much I love Malabrigo yarn? Let's be honest: I probably bored my kids with that knowledge earlier this morning. However, just because I'm a broken record doesn't mean that you can't make this super-sweet bonnet for yourself or a loved one (and I'll even let you use a chunky weight fiber that isn't Malabrigo if you really insist). My only note is that, while I finished this bad boy with just one skein of the Mecha, or 130 yards, it was a close call so you may need slightly more yarn to complete yours. But don't worry - this fancifully-finished design (check out the back below!) will be worth it either way. Yarn: Malabrigo Mecha (100% Merino Superwash Wool; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #809 Solis - 1 - 2 skeins A closer view of the back finish. It's different, no? Needles: Straight needles in size US 10.5, one 16" circular needle in size US 11 needle, and one set of double pointed needles in size US 11 Notions: Tapestry needle, 5 stitch markers Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 11 needles So let's make a hat, then! First, then, since we'll begin by knitting flat, go ahead and use your size 10.5 needles to cast on 80 stitches loosely. Then we'll knit some ribbing, as follows: Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): * p1, k2, p1; rep from * Ribbing Row 2: * k1, p2, k1 * Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 1.5" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size US 11 needle (yes, it's circular, but we're still working flat!). Then we'll work one marker placement row, as follows: Marker Placement Row (wrong side): p8, place marker, p24, place marker, p16, place marker, p24, place marker, p8 And once that's done, we'll begin our pattern as well as some decreases, which you'll find below. You'll need the following notation to continue (and you can find videos for the twists below as well): rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right) And once you have that down, we'll continue like so: Row 1 (right side): (lt) 4 times, slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, (rt) 4 times (-2 stitches) Row 2: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Row 3: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1 slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 (-2 stitches) Row 4: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Knit rows 1 - 4 three times, and then knit rows 1 - 3 once more. Now you should have 16 stitches remaining between your first and second markers, and 64 stitches in total. We're going to join the hat in the round at this point, which your yarn should be in position for since you've left off at the end of a right side row. Anyway, then, join piece in round and place row marker - as a note, you'll probably either want to join by swapping your first and last stitches or reinforce this join when you're done with the hat. Either way, we'll continue as follows: Row 1: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 2: (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times Row 3: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 4: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 Knit rows 1 - 4 once or twice (I knit them twice; however, for a slightly shallower hat, once would be plenty) and then knit row 1 again. Then we'll begin our decrease rows, as follows: Decrease Row 1: (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times, (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times (60 stitches) Decrease Row 2: knit Decrease Row 3: k1, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k1 (56 stitches) Decrease Row 4: knit Decrease Row 5: (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice (48 stitches) Decrease Row 6: knit You'll probably want to switch to your dpns about now... Decrease Row 7: k1, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k2, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k1 (44 stitches) Decrease Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (40 stitches) Decrease Row 9: lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt (36 stitches) Decrease Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (32 stitches) Decrease Row 11: k1, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k2, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k1 (24 stitches) Decrease Row 12: lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt, lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt (16 stitches) Complete decrease rows 1 - 12. Then, knit across the first 4 stitches of your round. Next, transfer the following 8 stitches to one dpn for grafting, and the final 4 of the round, plus the 4 you just knit, to a second dpn. Using the Kitchener stitch, graft together these remaining 16 stitches. Tuck in ends and block, if desired. Make tassels and affix to bottom corners of hat. Wear proudly, even if you're a Veronica instead.
Artículo sobre CHILE DIBUJOS BAILES TRADICIONALES contenido en Pintar dibujos
