My design for an 18th century-inspired quilted Christmas stocking. Perfect to fill with little things as stocking stuffers. Makes a great smaller-scale project to try hand-quilting. I'm a fan of holiday craft projects - gets me in the spirit! One (or more) of these will add historical flair to your holiday decor or make a meaningful gift. You'll get 2 sizes in downloadable PDFs for you to print at home on 8.5"x11" or A4 sheets of paper. Instructions are a 3rd file. I was inspired to design this quilted stocking when I was designing a quilted tie-on pocket based on my research of 18th century quilted garments. You can check out my Pinterest board for actual quilted garments of the period. https://www.pinterest.com/fleurdelysa/18th-c-quilted-garments/ I post costume and in-process sewing content on my personal Instagram account lisavandenberghe. There you'll find Reels and Story Highlights from working on my quilted petticoat. Follow me! Thanks for your support and please post photos of your stockings with your reviews! PLEASE NOTE: This is a listing for the PATTERN only and intended for personal use only. Items made using this pattern are not to be sold. The quilted stocking images are just to give you an idea of how it looks made up. (c) 2024 Lisa VandenBerghe. All rights reserved.
Dresses in the 18th century were often designed to showcase the textiles. This particular textile is brocaded which means that the colored threads that appear in the floral motifs do not extend the…
Wool Quilt from about 1790-1840 Collection: Watkins Museum, Lawrence, Kansas This is the oldest quilt in the collection of our local historical society. Years ago when I read the catalog papers it was described as Amish. You can understand the mistake. In Kansas we see a lot more Amish wool quilts than we do early wool petticoat quilts, which is what it actually is, probably brought here by one of the New Englanders who came to Kansas in the 1850s. I wish I'd taken better pictures but I remember it as quilted with many fancy motifs. When it was turned over, the shapes on the front were echoed on the back. It was obvious that the center blue panel had been a quilted petticoat. The gathers had been removed and the skirt flattened out. Smaller pink square filled out the rectangle and a border of tan quilted wool was added with larger pink squares. Fashion in the last quarter of the 18th century The woman on the right is wearing a quilted petticoat. It's important to remember that the word petticoat really means skirt. Quilted petticoats were worn on the outside in the 18th century and into the 19th. See two petticoat quilts at the Quilt Index http://www.quiltindex.org/fulldisplay.php?kid=4D-85-5F http://www.quiltindex.org/fulldisplay.php?kid=47-7B-ECB These recycled petticoat bedcovers are rather common in museum collections (if not always recognized). Like the linsey-woolsey quilts described in the last post, wool and silk petticoats were too durable to discard once they were unfashionable. See this quilt made from a petticoat in the collection of Old Sturbridge Village http://www.osv.org/explore_learn/collection_viewer.php?N=26.107.6 Another madder red quilted petticoat in England. The joke is that the cobbler's wife is aping her betters--- and making do without a lady's maid. Wool petticoat from the collection of Colonial Williamsburg. Go to their search page, type in petticoat and see many examples: http://emuseum.history.org/code/emuseum.asp?page=search_basic While we are thinking about wholecloth quilting, here's a great reproduction. Underhill Tree of Life Wholecloth Quilt by Jill Meszaros, 2012 Cotton and hand quilted. Jill's entry into the 1812 Seaways Trail Quilt Challenge was named for her ancestor Major David Underhill of Ohio. Her hand quilting design inspirations: Lynne Z. Bassett's drawings in Massachusetts Quilts and a "Tree of Life Whitework Quilt" from Quilts-Masterworks from the American Folk Art Museum. See more about this quilt that won second prize for Viewer's Choice here: http://1812quiltchallenge.blogspot.com/2012/03/handquilted-underhill-tree-of-life.htmlIf you are inclined to make a petticoat...click here: http://brocadegoddess.wordpress.com/quilted-petticoat/
This KIT in corral silk has most everything you’ll need to quilt and sew together a unique and useful 18th century pocket. No need to buy a whole package of wool batting or full yards of fabric. Printed pattern with quilting design included. If you have your own materials at hand, the pattern is also available as a downloadable PDF in a separate listing. The kit is based on original examples of 18th century quilted garments and accessories. Kit includes: Printed quilting pattern One piece of silk fabric for pocket front One piece of wool fabric to back quilting One piece of vintage French linen fabric for pocket back One piece of wool batting Bias-cut strips for binding Cotton twill tape for pocket ties Printed instructions This is NOT a finished product. Purple pocket is a sample for demonstration purposes only. (c) Lisa VandenBerghe 2024 All rights reserved. For personal use only.
And just like that, I’m back to the subject of 18th Century dresses. Someone I follow on DeviantART (Idzit, who makes amazing, amazing dresses – do check them out) recently told me I should defiantly try my hand at a pattern from Janet Arnold’s book Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's Dresses and their Construction, c. 1660-1860. I really feel like making a jacket right now (it takes less fabric and I could use some of my leftovers), so I started to flip through that book and I fell in love with this one: A white quilted satin jacket with a hood and a matching petticoat, c. 1745-60, Snowshill Manor (page 30). ARNOLD, Janet, Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's Dresses and their Construction, c. 1660-1860, Macmillan Publishers Ltd, London, 1964, 76pages. ISBN 0-89676-026-X I call it the 18th Century Hoodie. I hope to make it for this summer’s Les Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France. I’m thinking of using my usual 1$ / metre jacquard for the hooded jacket, dye it yellow and wear it with a pink skirt (either the linen one or the satin one, I haven't made up my mind). Colour wise, it would look a little like this: Peach & Pink Dress Kirsten Dunst as Marie Antoinette, Marie Antoinette (2006) After I had begun planning this outfit (and this post), Idzit posted pictures of her own version of this dress (which is much more accurate to the description Janet Arnold made of it than anything I intend to make). She very graciously gave me permission to post it here. Gaze... by Idzit 1745 travelling suit by Idzit Photography/editing: Chocomalk Here is what she had to say about this ensemble: This outfit is made of a cream-coloured quilted cotton lined with a cotton broadcloth (in the jacket). I'm wearing a bumroll underneath because I don't have a hooped crinoline, but the effect I find is just as lovely and probably more convenient. The muff is fairly high-tech; it's lined with polar fleece and Thinsulate©! Not to mention there's a little pocket inside for a mirror, lipstick, cell-phone, wallet... blunderbuss - whatever! I did not use a pattern for the construction of the muff, it was fairly straightforward. I might one day post a tutorial on how to make one though... "The white ruffles of a chemise would have shown below the flounce at the end of the sleeve. This suit would probably have been worn for travelling... A handkerchief would have been worn at the neck. The skirt would have probably been supported by a dome-shaped hoop-petticoat."-Janet Arnold. Absolutely beautiful. Again, I really want to thank Idzit for letting me share her work here. I’m really itching to start working on an 18th century project. Anything, just 18th century.
Cropped pant with elastic waist in a medium weight cotton with front and back patch pockets Design inspiration can come from many places at once. The triangular embroidery motif can be traced back to early 18th century quilting, when the popular pattern was called a “dogtooth border.” The pattern also references handmade Rarámuri garments made by Tarahumara women in rural Chihuahua, Mexico. A portion of our profits for this dress are donated to Fondo Semillas, a feminist fund that supports indigenous women, youth, and marginalized groups in Mexico.
This KIT in corral silk has most everything you’ll need to quilt and sew together a unique and useful 18th century pocket. No need to buy a whole package of wool batting or full yards of fabric. Printed pattern with quilting design included. If you have your own materials at hand, the pattern is also available as a downloadable PDF in a separate listing. The kit is based on original examples of 18th century quilted garments and accessories. Kit includes: Printed quilting pattern One piece of silk fabric for pocket front One piece of wool fabric to back quilting One piece of vintage French linen fabric for pocket back One piece of wool batting Bias-cut strips for binding Cotton twill tape for pocket ties Printed instructions This is NOT a finished product. Purple pocket is a sample for demonstration purposes only. (c) Lisa VandenBerghe 2024 All rights reserved. For personal use only.
Embroidery Inspiration - 18th c. Quilted Petticoats
Children's 2-12; Misses 6-20; Men's 30-42 Smocks have been worn by rural laborers as protective overgarments for hundreds of years. The technique of hand-smocking evolved from the way many of these early garments were fitted, sized, and embellished. English Smocks were most widely worn during the late 18th century. Shepherds donned the sturdy garments while traveling unpaved roads. Butchers, bakers, fishmongers, and farmers wore smocks for work, and many had "best" smocks (usually white) as well, for Sundays, special occasions, and to make a good impression at the annual Hiring Fairs. Today, smocks are favored by artists, craftspeople, and fashionable folk everywhere. Originally a man's garment, the loose-fitting smock is sized for women as well as men. The Round Smock is sized for children as well. The Round Smock is mid-calf length and slips over the head. For children, the smock is knee-length. The Smock Frock has a button-front opening and is tunic length. Both versions may be hand-smocked on front, back, and sleeves, or easily "mock-smocked" by machine with elastic. Instructions and designs for smocking and embroidery are included inside pattern. This pattern is available as a Paper pattern and PDF pattern. Choose the pattern format you want in the drop down menu. The PDF pattern has instructions, lore and authentic detailing, and files for copy shop (36” and A0), print at home (A4 and 8.5”x11”) in adult and children's sizes. Suggested fabrics: Soft medium-weight fabrics with some drape such as cotton, rayon, wool, synthetics or blends in challis, broadcloth, corduroy, or flannel. For an authentic look, choose linen or homespun. Yardage chart (.pdf)
The quilted petticoat was a ubiquitous item of women’s 18th century clothing, and spanned all social classes being worn by both the wealthiest elite and the very poor. However, this does not…
extant, garments, gowns, dresses, outfits, antique, history, historical, textiles, fashion, Victorian, Edwardian, 18th century, Regency
Semi-fitted tops have sleeve variations. Includes separate pattern pieces for a/b, c, & d cups.FABRICS: Cotton Blends, Poplin, Gingham, Crepe de Chine.NOTIONS: One Hook & Eye.Size...
Earlier this year I was the lucky winner of The Hectic Eclectic's apron giveaway (many thanks Mrs. C!) which inspired the following research regarding 18th century apron strings. I've specifically been looking for examples where ladies have tied their apron strings in the front. Is it a knot with the strings hanging? It is a bow? Is it centered or off center? Did ladies with embroidered aprons tie them in the front or is this a lower class trait? Here are some sources, listed in chron order, that begin to answer these questions. Detail from William Hogarth's The Enraged Musician, 1741 Strings tied in front in a small bow; it looks like the apron dips, which Hallie described in a post earlier this year. Detail from The Enraged Macaroni, 1773 Lewis Walpole Library Accession Number 773.07.13.01.2+ Strings also tied in front and again it looks like there's a small dip in the apron. Detail from A Girl Buying a Ballad, Henry Walton c.1778 Tate Gallery T07594 It looks like the strings are tied in front. Unfortunately I can't tell if the apron dips or if its worn beneath her gown's bodice. A Market Girl Holding A Mallard Duck, 1787 by John Russell Strings tied in a bow. (I love that bonnet!) Detail from At the Inn Door, fourth quarter 18th century by Henry Singleton V&A Accession Number 1834-1900 Strings tied in a small bow. Detail from the print Spring and Winter, from A Collection of Drolleries 1770-1797 Lewis Walpole Library Accession Number 785.10.9.1 Strings tied in a small bow. Detail from Free Women of Color with Their Children and Servants in a Landscape by Agostino Brunias, Brooklyn Museum Accession Number 2010.59 The museum dates this painting as c.1764-1796. Judging by the high crown of the ladies' hats in the center and the high waist of the short gowns on the left, I would guess this painting probably dates from the 1790s. Another example of an apron tied in front that dips and has a bow with short strings. While this is a very light survey of 18th century artwork with aprons, there's enough evidence to suggest that tying apron strings in the front with a small bow is a good choice for someone reenacting the second half of the 18th century who's focusing on a working class impression. So when cutting linen/cotton tape for apron strings, how long should the strings be so they're not too long or too short? For someone my size (medium) the tape could be approximately 88 inches long. This means I need to trim a few inches from my apron strings.
This KIT in LAVENDER or DUSTY ROSE silk has most everything you’ll need to quilt and sew together a unique and useful 18th century pocket. No need to buy a whole package of wool batting or full yards of fabric. Printed pattern with quilting design included. Only ONE available in each color. If you have your own materials at hand, the pattern is also available as a downloadable PDF in a separate listing. The kit is based on original examples of 18th century quilted garments and accessories. Kit includes: Printed quilting pattern One piece of silk fabric for pocket front One piece of wool fabric to back quilting One piece of vintage French linen fabric for pocket back One piece of wool batting Bias-cut strips of matching silk fabric for binding Cotton twill tape for pocket ties Printed instructions This is NOT a finished product. The completed pocket is a sample for demonstration purposes only. (c) Lisa VandenBerghe 2023 All rights reserved. For personal use only.
From the seller: A beautiful 1890’s ivory satin wedding petticoat that has been de-accessioned from a museum collection. The bottom hemline is padded and quilted. The edge of the hemline has a pleated satin ruffle. The petticoat has a trained back. It is in very good and sturdy condition. There are no splits or holes in the fabric. There are a few small minor age spots. Waist 24 Front length 42 Back length 47. From Me: This looks like it's about 10 years older than the seller believes - notice how it really looks like it could use a bustle pad? I'm putting it in the 1880's.
The quilted petticoat was a ubiquitous item of women’s 18th century clothing, and spanned all social classes being worn by both the wealthiest elite and the very poor. However, this does not…
From the seller: A choice original circa 1840's lady's golden brown silk satin petticoat hand quilted in a diamond and a deep traditional border motif. A cartridge pleated waist to the sarcenet waistband, with no closure. A medium weight batting, and a brown glazed cotton lining. Recently de-accessioned from a New York State museum with a 1971 penned accession number on the waistband. In very good clean sound as found condition, with only a few tiny age flaws, most at the hem, one 1/2" surface only hole to the lining, and wear to the waistband from normal use. A very nice mid 19th century petticoat with lovely quilting. From Me: I'm adding this today if for no other reason than all that quilting was done by hand. My hands hurt just thinking about that!
Yellow quilted satin skirt.
From the seller: This is an impressive example of a Victorian woman's winter petticoat and dates into the 1800's. (All measurements given are approximate.) This early Victorian era black silk quilted petticoat skirt has a 25 inch waist, 38 inches in length, and has a hem sweep of 109 inches. It is fully lined, all hand stitched and lightly batted. The exterior is constructed of a rich black silk fabric. The 5 inches deep waist / hip band is lined with brown cotton. The balance of the skirt lining is a black cotton. The brown cotton was also used for two support straps. Of the two original straps, only one remains. The strap is 26 inches long. Three hooks and eyes were used for the closure. The quilting is quite lovely. Below the deep waist band horizontal quilting extends 27 inches. At this point, diagonal stitches extend in 6 inch band. The hem is finished with what I think is black velvet which shows slight wear. This is a wonderful American early example of a 19th century hand quilted petticoat. The petticoat is in very good, clean, and basically sound condition. I found no tears in the silk or cotton. The skirt has few, if any age spots or pin dot holes. There are only two issues I find worth mentioning. One is a seam in the waist lining has loosened - the thread remains for your repair if desired. (Please see last photo). The other is the loss of the support strap at the waist. From Me: It still has it's straps!!! My guess on this one - it's always hard with the quilted petticoats since they didn't change much- is 1830's. The entire thing is hand sewn (ow!) and the straps on a petticoat generally mean an earlier 19th century date.
