Young family, ca. early 1860s. Clancy's Classics, via Etsy.
It's been a while, but I'm picking up where I left off in my series of posts on tartan in women's fashion! If you're new to the party and interested in pre-1840s, you can check out my earlier two posts on the Regency and Walter Scott revival at the links. The Waverly novels by Sir Walter Scott romanticized life in the Scottish Highlands and created an image of brave clan members and determined heroines all bedecked in tartan. While tartans, or woven plaids, had been a part of Highland culture, Scott's novels and the tartan fashions that followed brought a relatively small, rural, old (medieval even) pattern to the heights of London fashion. As Scotland struggled politically and economically to maintain a national identity within the quickly industrializing mid-19th century British Empire, the romantic image of clan members in kilts and maidens in fields of heather enchanted English ladies. One particularly influential lady to be enchanted by the romantic promise of the Scottish countryside was Queen Victoria herself. portrait of Victoria in tartan sash Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were so charmed by the Scottish highlands that they built a castle there, called Balmoral, in 1853 (the estate was purchased in 1848). While decorating, Albert designed several different tartan setts, and Balmoral was tartan from floor to curtain. Balmoral Castle, circa 1860s--you can see more images here illustration of Balmoral interior, 1857 watercolor of Queen Victoria's dressing room, 1857 Balmoral (Green), 1853 Balmoral (Lavender), 1853 Balmoral, 1853 Balmoral became a vacation playground for the monarchs and their friends, and the appropriation of many elements of Scottish tradition (such as the wearing of the kilt) were adopted by Balmoral residents during their stay. According to the Scottish Registry of Tartans, Queen Victoria had a skirt in the Balmoral tartan, and a similar sett was woven for her children's clothes. Victoria was also quite fond of the "Dress Stuart (or Stewart)" tartan, and had her own version created with a red stripe added. Victoria Stuart tartan, a variation of Dress Stuart This particular tartan was featured in both Victoria's clothes as well as her friends--the Princess of Wales wore it to a ball at Balmoral Castle in 1863 (which was the inspiration for my '60s ballgown last year): photo from a later auction catalogue showing a dress in dress stuart tartan with black lace trim (likely altered from its original version) Really, though, Queen Victoria started a trend for all kinds of tartan, not just her chosen few. Even before Balmoral, Victoria was already a fan. dress belonging to Princess Victoria, 1835 The incorporation of tartan (or really, plaids in general) into women's fashion is evident in extant garments, photographs, and fashion plates from the period, which demonstrate a range of applications for the pattern. While Victoria was certainly a trendsetter, the use of tartan spread to America, too; its roots in Queen Victoria's Scottish infatuation (or the "Balmorality" cultural appropriation, as scholars have called it), is still referenced in the popularity of the Royal Stuart tartan. Dress in royal stuart tartan with green fringe, c. late 1860s (whitaker auctions) Wool day dress in royal stuart tartan, 1860s plaid taffeta silk, 1860 lady in fancy dress (probably Scottish), 1840-60 girl in plaid mourning dress, holding picture of father dressed as a cavalry man, 1860s fashion plate depicting plaid sash, 1863 Carte de Visite, 1860s, from San Fransisco via pinterest 1861-65, via pinterest 1858. Townsend's monthly selection of Parisian costumes. Looks like royal stuart to me! While tartan must be woven, and can therefore be a variety of fabrics, it is most commonly wool or silk. Silk being so fabulous for dresses, it is most likely that was what Victoria favored. However, we do know the woolen variety of tartan had another use at Balmoral: keeping ladies warm! A fabulous anecdote from one of Queen Victoria's ladies' maids reveals that the Duchess of Manchester, at least, owned a pair of scarlet tartan drawers. How fabulously scandalous! Plaid was not new in the mid-19th century, but Queen Victoria's status as a trendsetter, combined with her infatuation with the romanticized Scottish Highlands, were a dynamic pair, and it's no surprise that tartan (and plaid in general) was so popular during her reign. I bet those ladies on picnics at Balmoral were quite a sight!
Stanley Spencer, (English painter, 1891 – 1959) Choosing a Dress Stanley Spencer, (English painter, 1891 – 1959) Crossing the Road Stanley Spencer, (English painter, 1891 – 1959) The Sausage Shop Stanley Spencer, (English painter, 1891 – 1959) The Wool Shop 1939
Joseph Hartmann 1812-1885 Duitsland
Le Bon Ton, October 1860. LAPL Visual Collections.
(photos cropped for copyright reasons) The 1860s brought with it wide skirts, fitted bodices, and a large variety of sleeve styles. The “Meg” 1860 Day Dress pattern has a proper high neckline appropriate for daywear, a wide, draping sleeve known as the “pagoda”, and separate undersleeves. The bodice can be decorated with a ruffle or fringe to dress up the gown. Make a hooped crinoline to go underneath, also available in my shop: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1464246799/ This pattern is so versatile - just look at all of the breathtaking dresses my talented testers came up with. I am always amazed at how they bring my designs to life. --- Printable PDF pattern designed to fit 18 inch dolls Includes pattern and instructions for dress and separate undersleeves DRESS Suggested fabrics: Silk, cotton, linen. Not suitable for heavy fabrics or knits. Notions: ½ yd 7/8” wide lace for neckline, scrap of ribbon for neckline bow, three small snaps, matching thread. Optional - 1 ½ yd pre-gathered lace trim or fringe for bodice (approx. 1 ¼” wide), 1 ¼ yd of 2 ½” wide gathered lace trim for skirt. Fabric: 2/3 yd of main fabric, 1/4 yd of lining UNDERSLEEVES Suggested fabrics: lightweight cotton, voile, batiste Notions: 1 yd of 1/8” wide cotton twill tape, ½ yd of 5/8” wide lace, two small snaps, matching thread Fabric: 12” x 12” scrap of fabric This pattern is designed to fit 18” dolls, however each doll’s body size can be slightly different, so be sure to take measurements and adjust as needed. Purchase TWILL TAPE here: https://etsy.me/2XYOUPY Check my shop periodically as I add historical doll scale fabrics by the yard, perfect for this project! Listing is for one pdf download pattern only. No clothing included. This pattern is copyrighted, however you may use it for making and selling doll clothing in your small-scale, home-based business, as long as you credit Pemberley Threads for the pattern design. Designed for the intermediate level sewist No refunds or returns. However, I am always available to answer questions if you need help! Send me an email at pemberleythreads [!at] gmail.com
Peterson's Magazine, September 1860. LAPL Visual Collections.
The crew - Abby, Chrissy, me, and Caroline at the Nevada Statehood Ball, 2019 - photo by Chase Stevens. A few posts ago I shared how I r...
Le Bon Ton, November 1860. LAPL Visual Collections.
