Since I have been making clothing from this period for over fifteen years now I have of course learnt a lot, discarded some ideas and tried new ones regarding the fillets, coffee filter hats or whatever you want to call them. So I thought that I should share three different fillets that I have made, and the inspiration for them. More generally I have written about headwear options for women in this period in this, rather image-heavy post. It is important to note that these are in period texts considered as part of the veils, chin band etc, what in German would have been called gebende, a word related to ribbon, at this period, and one that I like a lot, because it includes all parts of the (mostly) linen headwear. They were therefore also of the same material and colour as the veil, chin band or wimple etc. In fact, it is clear to see from 13th centry images that they originally were a strip of linen would around the head. These two are from a French manuscript from the 1220s - and you can even see the pin holding it together. This lady, from the Worcester cathedral, from the 1240s, has a pleated band wound around her head as a crown, but we can see where it overlaps. This 13th century lady from Dryburg Abbey appears ot have wound her pleated strip twice around her head. I haven't worn this variant yet, but since I have five metres of hemmed linen strip to wind around my head this is probably just a matter of time. And of boiling starch. Later one they appear to have become a separate piece, worn over the chin strap and sometimes also over a coif, but always under the veil, if worn with a veil (see the post linked above). A lot of these were plain, and I have one of those too, bust since it's only a piece of linen, cut at an angle at the edges, folded over, sewn together and starched slightly I didn't bother to take a photo of it. Plain fillets, from Reims cathedral, 13th century, and the Holkham Bible 1325-1330. But, there are also more decorated ones, in one way or the other, and that's what I am going to show you three examples of. 1. This is a fillet with a "wavy" edge. These are rather common in art, but whether the many examples of fillets with this kind of edge is the artists' way of showing pleating or actually shows a wavy upper edge is under debate. I however think that it is unlikely that so many artists, who have no problems showing pleats on for example sleeveheads on gardecorps should be unable to draw them on women's headwear. I think that there were several different ways to decorate a fillet, pleated, with a wavy or scalloped edge, edged with a braid etc. This fillet is based on St. Anna on this early 14th century altar frontal from Odda in Norway, seen below. Both her fillet and and her "chin strap" has rows of decorations which I have interpreted as braid, but could also be embroidery for instance. Another example showing a fillet with an edge of something thicker, maybe a braid, or a rolled piece of fabric is this s seal from c. 1300 (picture showing the imprint) My fillet has a silk cord sewn to it, but a more period solution would be a hand made braid or cord. The fillet is made from linen in a diamond twill, to add some interest to the simple white colour, and it is stiffened with heavy fusible interfacing. This was my first fillet, and today I would have either chosen vellum, which I'm told was used to stiffen some 13th century Spanish hats, or starch. To make the top wider than the bottom the pieces are cut at an angle where they are sewn together. A few more wavy fillets with some kind of edge decoration at the top: Roman del la Poire, 13th century And the ever popular Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift. 2. This fillet instead has a scalloped edge. There are quite a few images of these too. My first inspiration, the violent woman in blue in the Trinity Apocalypse. This one, from teh Maciejowski Bible also appears scalloped. But it is also slightly shaped, since the edges stand out. To achive this there is a wire sewn along all the scallops bty hand, before, again by hand, sewing the outer and inner layers together. Here you see that the strip is angled at the back. 3. Finally we have a pleated fillet, which is new, I made it this autumn. This is not my first try at a pleated fillet, but the less said about that other one, the better. I sewed wire to the edge of many metres of linen and knife pleated the whole thing. It was not a success. This one is also made from a long strip of linen, but instead of knife pleating it all I sewed tucks on the strip, levaing the top 1,5- 2 cm. After hemming it all of course. To give it some stability I sewed a strip of linen to the bottom edge. I contemplated sewign teh pleats to teh top edge of this strip too, but as you can see on the photo of me above, it keeps its shape pretty well anyway, with the help of spray starch. This, absolutely fabulous photo of Countess Margareta von Brabant, married to count Gerald von Gerle, taken by the German re-enactment group Amicorum Gratia shows a pleated fillet from above, and you see that it is double, though the inner layer also appears to be pleated. This may be next on my list. Again, this my be a strip of linen wound twice around the head. I'm not sure about this cosntruction with the tucks, but it does give a good Maciejowski bible look. This Italian manuscript from 1241 shows either a pleated, or a scalloped fillet which has decoration in yellow on it. I'm guessing pleating. This german one appears to have pleats both at the top and the bottom, and not much of an angle. My guess is that this is still a strip of linen just wound around the head. This one, from, the Rutland Psalter (ca 1260) is probably pleated in some way, but much less so than the one I have made. Anyway, there are a million medieval images showing this type of headwear, and showing these was not the point of this post, but to show different variants that I have made. And, hopefully, point out that these are three interpretations, and that there are many more to make. And therefore I end here.
Period Head Coverings Or alternately, What Hat Goes with My Outfit? 13th Century This post comes from a class I taught. It evolved from me standing in front of the mirror, event after event, trying…
Since I have been making clothing from this period for over fifteen years now I have of course learnt a lot, discarded some ideas and tried new ones regarding the fillets, coffee filter hats or whatever you want to call them. So I thought that I should share three different fillets that I have made, and the inspiration for them. More generally I have written about headwear options for women in this period in this, rather image-heavy post. It is important to note that these are in period texts considered as part of the veils, chin band etc, what in German would have been called gebende, a word related to ribbon, at this period, and one that I like a lot, because it includes all parts of the (mostly) linen headwear. They were therefore also of the same material and colour as the veil, chin band or wimple etc. In fact, it is clear to see from 13th centry images that they originally were a strip of linen would around the head. These two are from a French manuscript from the 1220s - and you can even see the pin holding it together. This lady, from the Worcester cathedral, from the 1240s, has a pleated band wound around her head as a crown, but we can see where it overlaps. This 13th century lady from Dryburg Abbey appears ot have wound her pleated strip twice around her head. I haven't worn this variant yet, but since I have five metres of hemmed linen strip to wind around my head this is probably just a matter of time. And of boiling starch. Later one they appear to have become a separate piece, worn over the chin strap and sometimes also over a coif, but always under the veil, if worn with a veil (see the post linked above). A lot of these were plain, and I have one of those too, bust since it's only a piece of linen, cut at an angle at the edges, folded over, sewn together and starched slightly I didn't bother to take a photo of it. Plain fillets, from Reims cathedral, 13th century, and the Holkham Bible 1325-1330. But, there are also more decorated ones, in one way or the other, and that's what I am going to show you three examples of. 1. This is a fillet with a "wavy" edge. These are rather common in art, but whether the many examples of fillets with this kind of edge is the artists' way of showing pleating or actually shows a wavy upper edge is under debate. I however think that it is unlikely that so many artists, who have no problems showing pleats on for example sleeveheads on gardecorps should be unable to draw them on women's headwear. I think that there were several different ways to decorate a fillet, pleated, with a wavy or scalloped edge, edged with a braid etc. This fillet is based on St. Anna on this early 14th century altar frontal from Odda in Norway, seen below. Both her fillet and and her "chin strap" has rows of decorations which I have interpreted as braid, but could also be embroidery for instance. Another example showing a fillet with an edge of something thicker, maybe a braid, or a rolled piece of fabric is this s seal from c. 1300 (picture showing the imprint) My fillet has a silk cord sewn to it, but a more period solution would be a hand made braid or cord. The fillet is made from linen in a diamond twill, to add some interest to the simple white colour, and it is stiffened with heavy fusible interfacing. This was my first fillet, and today I would have either chosen vellum, which I'm told was used to stiffen some 13th century Spanish hats, or starch. To make the top wider than the bottom the pieces are cut at an angle where they are sewn together. A few more wavy fillets with some kind of edge decoration at the top: Roman del la Poire, 13th century And the ever popular Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift. 2. This fillet instead has a scalloped edge. There are quite a few images of these too. My first inspiration, the violent woman in blue in the Trinity Apocalypse. This one, from teh Maciejowski Bible also appears scalloped. But it is also slightly shaped, since the edges stand out. To achive this there is a wire sewn along all the scallops bty hand, before, again by hand, sewing the outer and inner layers together. Here you see that the strip is angled at the back. 3. Finally we have a pleated fillet, which is new, I made it this autumn. This is not my first try at a pleated fillet, but the less said about that other one, the better. I sewed wire to the edge of many metres of linen and knife pleated the whole thing. It was not a success. This one is also made from a long strip of linen, but instead of knife pleating it all I sewed tucks on the strip, levaing the top 1,5- 2 cm. After hemming it all of course. To give it some stability I sewed a strip of linen to the bottom edge. I contemplated sewign teh pleats to teh top edge of this strip too, but as you can see on the photo of me above, it keeps its shape pretty well anyway, with the help of spray starch. This, absolutely fabulous photo of Countess Margareta von Brabant, married to count Gerald von Gerle, taken by the German re-enactment group Amicorum Gratia shows a pleated fillet from above, and you see that it is double, though the inner layer also appears to be pleated. This may be next on my list. Again, this my be a strip of linen wound twice around the head. I'm not sure about this cosntruction with the tucks, but it does give a good Maciejowski bible look. This Italian manuscript from 1241 shows either a pleated, or a scalloped fillet which has decoration in yellow on it. I'm guessing pleating. This german one appears to have pleats both at the top and the bottom, and not much of an angle. My guess is that this is still a strip of linen just wound around the head. This one, from, the Rutland Psalter (ca 1260) is probably pleated in some way, but much less so than the one I have made. Anyway, there are a million medieval images showing this type of headwear, and showing these was not the point of this post, but to show different variants that I have made. And, hopefully, point out that these are three interpretations, and that there are many more to make. And therefore I end here.
Period Head Coverings Or alternately, What Hat Goes with My Outfit? 13th Century This post comes from a class I taught. It evolved from me standing in front of the mirror, event after event, trying…
We move slightly north-west of Germany to Denmark (39 on the map) and then further north to Norway (40 on the map). Denmark/Copenhagen/Rosenborg Castle (Permanent Display 3 crowns) Crown of Christian V 1670 Crown of the Queens of Denmark 1731 Crown of Christian IV 1596 Norway/Trondheim/Nidaros Cathedral (Permanent Display 2crowns, 1coronet) King’s Crown 1818 Queen’s Crown 1830 Crown Prince’s Coronet 1846 http://www.nidarosdomen.no/nb-NO/erkebispegarden+riksregaliene/riksregaliene/riksregaliene.html https://info.ovf-nett.no/riksregaliene (All images on this blog are considered defaulted to the public domain due to age and ready sourcing from the internet. If an image on this blog is disputed it will be altered or removed following written protest from an authentic source. please contact me at [email protected])
Since I have been making clothing from this period for over fifteen years now I have of course learnt a lot, discarded some ideas and tried new ones regarding the fillets, coffee filter hats or whatever you want to call them. So I thought that I should share three different fillets that I have made, and the inspiration for them. More generally I have written about headwear options for women in this period in this, rather image-heavy post. It is important to note that these are in period texts considered as part of the veils, chin band etc, what in German would have been called gebende, a word related to ribbon, at this period, and one that I like a lot, because it includes all parts of the (mostly) linen headwear. They were therefore also of the same material and colour as the veil, chin band or wimple etc. In fact, it is clear to see from 13th centry images that they originally were a strip of linen would around the head. These two are from a French manuscript from the 1220s - and you can even see the pin holding it together. This lady, from the Worcester cathedral, from the 1240s, has a pleated band wound around her head as a crown, but we can see where it overlaps. This 13th century lady from Dryburg Abbey appears ot have wound her pleated strip twice around her head. I haven't worn this variant yet, but since I have five metres of hemmed linen strip to wind around my head this is probably just a matter of time. And of boiling starch. Later one they appear to have become a separate piece, worn over the chin strap and sometimes also over a coif, but always under the veil, if worn with a veil (see the post linked above). A lot of these were plain, and I have one of those too, bust since it's only a piece of linen, cut at an angle at the edges, folded over, sewn together and starched slightly I didn't bother to take a photo of it. Plain fillets, from Reims cathedral, 13th century, and the Holkham Bible 1325-1330. But, there are also more decorated ones, in one way or the other, and that's what I am going to show you three examples of. 1. This is a fillet with a "wavy" edge. These are rather common in art, but whether the many examples of fillets with this kind of edge is the artists' way of showing pleating or actually shows a wavy upper edge is under debate. I however think that it is unlikely that so many artists, who have no problems showing pleats on for example sleeveheads on gardecorps should be unable to draw them on women's headwear. I think that there were several different ways to decorate a fillet, pleated, with a wavy or scalloped edge, edged with a braid etc. This fillet is based on St. Anna on this early 14th century altar frontal from Odda in Norway, seen below. Both her fillet and and her "chin strap" has rows of decorations which I have interpreted as braid, but could also be embroidery for instance. Another example showing a fillet with an edge of something thicker, maybe a braid, or a rolled piece of fabric is this s seal from c. 1300 (picture showing the imprint) My fillet has a silk cord sewn to it, but a more period solution would be a hand made braid or cord. The fillet is made from linen in a diamond twill, to add some interest to the simple white colour, and it is stiffened with heavy fusible interfacing. This was my first fillet, and today I would have either chosen vellum, which I'm told was used to stiffen some 13th century Spanish hats, or starch. To make the top wider than the bottom the pieces are cut at an angle where they are sewn together. A few more wavy fillets with some kind of edge decoration at the top: Roman del la Poire, 13th century And the ever popular Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift. 2. This fillet instead has a scalloped edge. There are quite a few images of these too. My first inspiration, the violent woman in blue in the Trinity Apocalypse. This one, from teh Maciejowski Bible also appears scalloped. But it is also slightly shaped, since the edges stand out. To achive this there is a wire sewn along all the scallops bty hand, before, again by hand, sewing the outer and inner layers together. Here you see that the strip is angled at the back. 3. Finally we have a pleated fillet, which is new, I made it this autumn. This is not my first try at a pleated fillet, but the less said about that other one, the better. I sewed wire to the edge of many metres of linen and knife pleated the whole thing. It was not a success. This one is also made from a long strip of linen, but instead of knife pleating it all I sewed tucks on the strip, levaing the top 1,5- 2 cm. After hemming it all of course. To give it some stability I sewed a strip of linen to the bottom edge. I contemplated sewign teh pleats to teh top edge of this strip too, but as you can see on the photo of me above, it keeps its shape pretty well anyway, with the help of spray starch. This, absolutely fabulous photo of Countess Margareta von Brabant, married to count Gerald von Gerle, taken by the German re-enactment group Amicorum Gratia shows a pleated fillet from above, and you see that it is double, though the inner layer also appears to be pleated. This may be next on my list. Again, this my be a strip of linen wound twice around the head. I'm not sure about this cosntruction with the tucks, but it does give a good Maciejowski bible look. This Italian manuscript from 1241 shows either a pleated, or a scalloped fillet which has decoration in yellow on it. I'm guessing pleating. This german one appears to have pleats both at the top and the bottom, and not much of an angle. My guess is that this is still a strip of linen just wound around the head. This one, from, the Rutland Psalter (ca 1260) is probably pleated in some way, but much less so than the one I have made. Anyway, there are a million medieval images showing this type of headwear, and showing these was not the point of this post, but to show different variants that I have made. And, hopefully, point out that these are three interpretations, and that there are many more to make. And therefore I end here.
About 3 years ago I ran across a blog about a hat. Doesn’t sound exciting, but the hat just blew me away. It’s a beautiful and complex 13th century cap called St. Birgitta’s huva.…
Since I have been making clothing from this period for over fifteen years now I have of course learnt a lot, discarded some ideas and tried new ones regarding the fillets, coffee filter hats or whatever you want to call them. So I thought that I should share three different fillets that I have made, and the inspiration for them. More generally I have written about headwear options for women in this period in this, rather image-heavy post. It is important to note that these are in period texts considered as part of the veils, chin band etc, what in German would have been called gebende, a word related to ribbon, at this period, and one that I like a lot, because it includes all parts of the (mostly) linen headwear. They were therefore also of the same material and colour as the veil, chin band or wimple etc. In fact, it is clear to see from 13th centry images that they originally were a strip of linen would around the head. These two are from a French manuscript from the 1220s - and you can even see the pin holding it together. This lady, from the Worcester cathedral, from the 1240s, has a pleated band wound around her head as a crown, but we can see where it overlaps. This 13th century lady from Dryburg Abbey appears ot have wound her pleated strip twice around her head. I haven't worn this variant yet, but since I have five metres of hemmed linen strip to wind around my head this is probably just a matter of time. And of boiling starch. Later one they appear to have become a separate piece, worn over the chin strap and sometimes also over a coif, but always under the veil, if worn with a veil (see the post linked above). A lot of these were plain, and I have one of those too, bust since it's only a piece of linen, cut at an angle at the edges, folded over, sewn together and starched slightly I didn't bother to take a photo of it. Plain fillets, from Reims cathedral, 13th century, and the Holkham Bible 1325-1330. But, there are also more decorated ones, in one way or the other, and that's what I am going to show you three examples of. 1. This is a fillet with a "wavy" edge. These are rather common in art, but whether the many examples of fillets with this kind of edge is the artists' way of showing pleating or actually shows a wavy upper edge is under debate. I however think that it is unlikely that so many artists, who have no problems showing pleats on for example sleeveheads on gardecorps should be unable to draw them on women's headwear. I think that there were several different ways to decorate a fillet, pleated, with a wavy or scalloped edge, edged with a braid etc. This fillet is based on St. Anna on this early 14th century altar frontal from Odda in Norway, seen below. Both her fillet and and her "chin strap" has rows of decorations which I have interpreted as braid, but could also be embroidery for instance. Another example showing a fillet with an edge of something thicker, maybe a braid, or a rolled piece of fabric is this s seal from c. 1300 (picture showing the imprint) My fillet has a silk cord sewn to it, but a more period solution would be a hand made braid or cord. The fillet is made from linen in a diamond twill, to add some interest to the simple white colour, and it is stiffened with heavy fusible interfacing. This was my first fillet, and today I would have either chosen vellum, which I'm told was used to stiffen some 13th century Spanish hats, or starch. To make the top wider than the bottom the pieces are cut at an angle where they are sewn together. A few more wavy fillets with some kind of edge decoration at the top: Roman del la Poire, 13th century And the ever popular Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift. 2. This fillet instead has a scalloped edge. There are quite a few images of these too. My first inspiration, the violent woman in blue in the Trinity Apocalypse. This one, from teh Maciejowski Bible also appears scalloped. But it is also slightly shaped, since the edges stand out. To achive this there is a wire sewn along all the scallops bty hand, before, again by hand, sewing the outer and inner layers together. Here you see that the strip is angled at the back. 3. Finally we have a pleated fillet, which is new, I made it this autumn. This is not my first try at a pleated fillet, but the less said about that other one, the better. I sewed wire to the edge of many metres of linen and knife pleated the whole thing. It was not a success. This one is also made from a long strip of linen, but instead of knife pleating it all I sewed tucks on the strip, levaing the top 1,5- 2 cm. After hemming it all of course. To give it some stability I sewed a strip of linen to the bottom edge. I contemplated sewign teh pleats to teh top edge of this strip too, but as you can see on the photo of me above, it keeps its shape pretty well anyway, with the help of spray starch. This, absolutely fabulous photo of Countess Margareta von Brabant, married to count Gerald von Gerle, taken by the German re-enactment group Amicorum Gratia shows a pleated fillet from above, and you see that it is double, though the inner layer also appears to be pleated. This may be next on my list. Again, this my be a strip of linen wound twice around the head. I'm not sure about this cosntruction with the tucks, but it does give a good Maciejowski bible look. This Italian manuscript from 1241 shows either a pleated, or a scalloped fillet which has decoration in yellow on it. I'm guessing pleating. This german one appears to have pleats both at the top and the bottom, and not much of an angle. My guess is that this is still a strip of linen just wound around the head. This one, from, the Rutland Psalter (ca 1260) is probably pleated in some way, but much less so than the one I have made. Anyway, there are a million medieval images showing this type of headwear, and showing these was not the point of this post, but to show different variants that I have made. And, hopefully, point out that these are three interpretations, and that there are many more to make. And therefore I end here.
Since I have been making clothing from this period for over fifteen years now I have of course learnt a lot, discarded some ideas and tried new ones regarding the fillets, coffee filter hats or whatever you want to call them. So I thought that I should share three different fillets that I have made, and the inspiration for them. More generally I have written about headwear options for women in this period in this, rather image-heavy post. It is important to note that these are in period texts considered as part of the veils, chin band etc, what in German would have been called gebende, a word related to ribbon, at this period, and one that I like a lot, because it includes all parts of the (mostly) linen headwear. They were therefore also of the same material and colour as the veil, chin band or wimple etc. In fact, it is clear to see from 13th centry images that they originally were a strip of linen would around the head. These two are from a French manuscript from the 1220s - and you can even see the pin holding it together. This lady, from the Worcester cathedral, from the 1240s, has a pleated band wound around her head as a crown, but we can see where it overlaps. This 13th century lady from Dryburg Abbey appears ot have wound her pleated strip twice around her head. I haven't worn this variant yet, but since I have five metres of hemmed linen strip to wind around my head this is probably just a matter of time. And of boiling starch. Later one they appear to have become a separate piece, worn over the chin strap and sometimes also over a coif, but always under the veil, if worn with a veil (see the post linked above). A lot of these were plain, and I have one of those too, bust since it's only a piece of linen, cut at an angle at the edges, folded over, sewn together and starched slightly I didn't bother to take a photo of it. Plain fillets, from Reims cathedral, 13th century, and the Holkham Bible 1325-1330. But, there are also more decorated ones, in one way or the other, and that's what I am going to show you three examples of. 1. This is a fillet with a "wavy" edge. These are rather common in art, but whether the many examples of fillets with this kind of edge is the artists' way of showing pleating or actually shows a wavy upper edge is under debate. I however think that it is unlikely that so many artists, who have no problems showing pleats on for example sleeveheads on gardecorps should be unable to draw them on women's headwear. I think that there were several different ways to decorate a fillet, pleated, with a wavy or scalloped edge, edged with a braid etc. This fillet is based on St. Anna on this early 14th century altar frontal from Odda in Norway, seen below. Both her fillet and and her "chin strap" has rows of decorations which I have interpreted as braid, but could also be embroidery for instance. Another example showing a fillet with an edge of something thicker, maybe a braid, or a rolled piece of fabric is this s seal from c. 1300 (picture showing the imprint) My fillet has a silk cord sewn to it, but a more period solution would be a hand made braid or cord. The fillet is made from linen in a diamond twill, to add some interest to the simple white colour, and it is stiffened with heavy fusible interfacing. This was my first fillet, and today I would have either chosen vellum, which I'm told was used to stiffen some 13th century Spanish hats, or starch. To make the top wider than the bottom the pieces are cut at an angle where they are sewn together. A few more wavy fillets with some kind of edge decoration at the top: Roman del la Poire, 13th century And the ever popular Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift. 2. This fillet instead has a scalloped edge. There are quite a few images of these too. My first inspiration, the violent woman in blue in the Trinity Apocalypse. This one, from teh Maciejowski Bible also appears scalloped. But it is also slightly shaped, since the edges stand out. To achive this there is a wire sewn along all the scallops bty hand, before, again by hand, sewing the outer and inner layers together. Here you see that the strip is angled at the back. 3. Finally we have a pleated fillet, which is new, I made it this autumn. This is not my first try at a pleated fillet, but the less said about that other one, the better. I sewed wire to the edge of many metres of linen and knife pleated the whole thing. It was not a success. This one is also made from a long strip of linen, but instead of knife pleating it all I sewed tucks on the strip, levaing the top 1,5- 2 cm. After hemming it all of course. To give it some stability I sewed a strip of linen to the bottom edge. I contemplated sewign teh pleats to teh top edge of this strip too, but as you can see on the photo of me above, it keeps its shape pretty well anyway, with the help of spray starch. This, absolutely fabulous photo of Countess Margareta von Brabant, married to count Gerald von Gerle, taken by the German re-enactment group Amicorum Gratia shows a pleated fillet from above, and you see that it is double, though the inner layer also appears to be pleated. This may be next on my list. Again, this my be a strip of linen wound twice around the head. I'm not sure about this cosntruction with the tucks, but it does give a good Maciejowski bible look. This Italian manuscript from 1241 shows either a pleated, or a scalloped fillet which has decoration in yellow on it. I'm guessing pleating. This german one appears to have pleats both at the top and the bottom, and not much of an angle. My guess is that this is still a strip of linen just wound around the head. This one, from, the Rutland Psalter (ca 1260) is probably pleated in some way, but much less so than the one I have made. Anyway, there are a million medieval images showing this type of headwear, and showing these was not the point of this post, but to show different variants that I have made. And, hopefully, point out that these are three interpretations, and that there are many more to make. And therefore I end here.
Since I have been making clothing from this period for over fifteen years now I have of course learnt a lot, discarded some ideas and tried new ones regarding the fillets, coffee filter hats or whatever you want to call them. So I thought that I should share three different fillets that I have made, and the inspiration for them. More generally I have written about headwear options for women in this period in this, rather image-heavy post. It is important to note that these are in period texts considered as part of the veils, chin band etc, what in German would have been called gebende, a word related to ribbon, at this period, and one that I like a lot, because it includes all parts of the (mostly) linen headwear. They were therefore also of the same material and colour as the veil, chin band or wimple etc. In fact, it is clear to see from 13th centry images that they originally were a strip of linen would around the head. These two are from a French manuscript from the 1220s - and you can even see the pin holding it together. This lady, from the Worcester cathedral, from the 1240s, has a pleated band wound around her head as a crown, but we can see where it overlaps. This 13th century lady from Dryburg Abbey appears ot have wound her pleated strip twice around her head. I haven't worn this variant yet, but since I have five metres of hemmed linen strip to wind around my head this is probably just a matter of time. And of boiling starch. Later one they appear to have become a separate piece, worn over the chin strap and sometimes also over a coif, but always under the veil, if worn with a veil (see the post linked above). A lot of these were plain, and I have one of those too, bust since it's only a piece of linen, cut at an angle at the edges, folded over, sewn together and starched slightly I didn't bother to take a photo of it. Plain fillets, from Reims cathedral, 13th century, and the Holkham Bible 1325-1330. But, there are also more decorated ones, in one way or the other, and that's what I am going to show you three examples of. 1. This is a fillet with a "wavy" edge. These are rather common in art, but whether the many examples of fillets with this kind of edge is the artists' way of showing pleating or actually shows a wavy upper edge is under debate. I however think that it is unlikely that so many artists, who have no problems showing pleats on for example sleeveheads on gardecorps should be unable to draw them on women's headwear. I think that there were several different ways to decorate a fillet, pleated, with a wavy or scalloped edge, edged with a braid etc. This fillet is based on St. Anna on this early 14th century altar frontal from Odda in Norway, seen below. Both her fillet and and her "chin strap" has rows of decorations which I have interpreted as braid, but could also be embroidery for instance. Another example showing a fillet with an edge of something thicker, maybe a braid, or a rolled piece of fabric is this s seal from c. 1300 (picture showing the imprint) My fillet has a silk cord sewn to it, but a more period solution would be a hand made braid or cord. The fillet is made from linen in a diamond twill, to add some interest to the simple white colour, and it is stiffened with heavy fusible interfacing. This was my first fillet, and today I would have either chosen vellum, which I'm told was used to stiffen some 13th century Spanish hats, or starch. To make the top wider than the bottom the pieces are cut at an angle where they are sewn together. A few more wavy fillets with some kind of edge decoration at the top: Roman del la Poire, 13th century And the ever popular Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift. 2. This fillet instead has a scalloped edge. There are quite a few images of these too. My first inspiration, the violent woman in blue in the Trinity Apocalypse. This one, from teh Maciejowski Bible also appears scalloped. But it is also slightly shaped, since the edges stand out. To achive this there is a wire sewn along all the scallops bty hand, before, again by hand, sewing the outer and inner layers together. Here you see that the strip is angled at the back. 3. Finally we have a pleated fillet, which is new, I made it this autumn. This is not my first try at a pleated fillet, but the less said about that other one, the better. I sewed wire to the edge of many metres of linen and knife pleated the whole thing. It was not a success. This one is also made from a long strip of linen, but instead of knife pleating it all I sewed tucks on the strip, levaing the top 1,5- 2 cm. After hemming it all of course. To give it some stability I sewed a strip of linen to the bottom edge. I contemplated sewign teh pleats to teh top edge of this strip too, but as you can see on the photo of me above, it keeps its shape pretty well anyway, with the help of spray starch. This, absolutely fabulous photo of Countess Margareta von Brabant, married to count Gerald von Gerle, taken by the German re-enactment group Amicorum Gratia shows a pleated fillet from above, and you see that it is double, though the inner layer also appears to be pleated. This may be next on my list. Again, this my be a strip of linen wound twice around the head. I'm not sure about this cosntruction with the tucks, but it does give a good Maciejowski bible look. This Italian manuscript from 1241 shows either a pleated, or a scalloped fillet which has decoration in yellow on it. I'm guessing pleating. This german one appears to have pleats both at the top and the bottom, and not much of an angle. My guess is that this is still a strip of linen just wound around the head. This one, from, the Rutland Psalter (ca 1260) is probably pleated in some way, but much less so than the one I have made. Anyway, there are a million medieval images showing this type of headwear, and showing these was not the point of this post, but to show different variants that I have made. And, hopefully, point out that these are three interpretations, and that there are many more to make. And therefore I end here.
Since I have been making clothing from this period for over fifteen years now I have of course learnt a lot, discarded some ideas and tried new ones regarding the fillets, coffee filter hats or whatever you want to call them. So I thought that I should share three different fillets that I have made, and the inspiration for them. More generally I have written about headwear options for women in this period in this, rather image-heavy post. It is important to note that these are in period texts considered as part of the veils, chin band etc, what in German would have been called gebende, a word related to ribbon, at this period, and one that I like a lot, because it includes all parts of the (mostly) linen headwear. They were therefore also of the same material and colour as the veil, chin band or wimple etc. In fact, it is clear to see from 13th centry images that they originally were a strip of linen would around the head. These two are from a French manuscript from the 1220s - and you can even see the pin holding it together. This lady, from the Worcester cathedral, from the 1240s, has a pleated band wound around her head as a crown, but we can see where it overlaps. This 13th century lady from Dryburg Abbey appears ot have wound her pleated strip twice around her head. I haven't worn this variant yet, but since I have five metres of hemmed linen strip to wind around my head this is probably just a matter of time. And of boiling starch. Later one they appear to have become a separate piece, worn over the chin strap and sometimes also over a coif, but always under the veil, if worn with a veil (see the post linked above). A lot of these were plain, and I have one of those too, bust since it's only a piece of linen, cut at an angle at the edges, folded over, sewn together and starched slightly I didn't bother to take a photo of it. Plain fillets, from Reims cathedral, 13th century, and the Holkham Bible 1325-1330. But, there are also more decorated ones, in one way or the other, and that's what I am going to show you three examples of. 1. This is a fillet with a "wavy" edge. These are rather common in art, but whether the many examples of fillets with this kind of edge is the artists' way of showing pleating or actually shows a wavy upper edge is under debate. I however think that it is unlikely that so many artists, who have no problems showing pleats on for example sleeveheads on gardecorps should be unable to draw them on women's headwear. I think that there were several different ways to decorate a fillet, pleated, with a wavy or scalloped edge, edged with a braid etc. This fillet is based on St. Anna on this early 14th century altar frontal from Odda in Norway, seen below. Both her fillet and and her "chin strap" has rows of decorations which I have interpreted as braid, but could also be embroidery for instance. Another example showing a fillet with an edge of something thicker, maybe a braid, or a rolled piece of fabric is this s seal from c. 1300 (picture showing the imprint) My fillet has a silk cord sewn to it, but a more period solution would be a hand made braid or cord. The fillet is made from linen in a diamond twill, to add some interest to the simple white colour, and it is stiffened with heavy fusible interfacing. This was my first fillet, and today I would have either chosen vellum, which I'm told was used to stiffen some 13th century Spanish hats, or starch. To make the top wider than the bottom the pieces are cut at an angle where they are sewn together. A few more wavy fillets with some kind of edge decoration at the top: Roman del la Poire, 13th century And the ever popular Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift. 2. This fillet instead has a scalloped edge. There are quite a few images of these too. My first inspiration, the violent woman in blue in the Trinity Apocalypse. This one, from teh Maciejowski Bible also appears scalloped. But it is also slightly shaped, since the edges stand out. To achive this there is a wire sewn along all the scallops bty hand, before, again by hand, sewing the outer and inner layers together. Here you see that the strip is angled at the back. 3. Finally we have a pleated fillet, which is new, I made it this autumn. This is not my first try at a pleated fillet, but the less said about that other one, the better. I sewed wire to the edge of many metres of linen and knife pleated the whole thing. It was not a success. This one is also made from a long strip of linen, but instead of knife pleating it all I sewed tucks on the strip, levaing the top 1,5- 2 cm. After hemming it all of course. To give it some stability I sewed a strip of linen to the bottom edge. I contemplated sewign teh pleats to teh top edge of this strip too, but as you can see on the photo of me above, it keeps its shape pretty well anyway, with the help of spray starch. This, absolutely fabulous photo of Countess Margareta von Brabant, married to count Gerald von Gerle, taken by the German re-enactment group Amicorum Gratia shows a pleated fillet from above, and you see that it is double, though the inner layer also appears to be pleated. This may be next on my list. Again, this my be a strip of linen wound twice around the head. I'm not sure about this cosntruction with the tucks, but it does give a good Maciejowski bible look. This Italian manuscript from 1241 shows either a pleated, or a scalloped fillet which has decoration in yellow on it. I'm guessing pleating. This german one appears to have pleats both at the top and the bottom, and not much of an angle. My guess is that this is still a strip of linen just wound around the head. This one, from, the Rutland Psalter (ca 1260) is probably pleated in some way, but much less so than the one I have made. Anyway, there are a million medieval images showing this type of headwear, and showing these was not the point of this post, but to show different variants that I have made. And, hopefully, point out that these are three interpretations, and that there are many more to make. And therefore I end here.
Since I have been making clothing from this period for over fifteen years now I have of course learnt a lot, discarded some ideas and tried new ones regarding the fillets, coffee filter hats or whatever you want to call them. So I thought that I should share three different fillets that I have made, and the inspiration for them. More generally I have written about headwear options for women in this period in this, rather image-heavy post. It is important to note that these are in period texts considered as part of the veils, chin band etc, what in German would have been called gebende, a word related to ribbon, at this period, and one that I like a lot, because it includes all parts of the (mostly) linen headwear. They were therefore also of the same material and colour as the veil, chin band or wimple etc. In fact, it is clear to see from 13th centry images that they originally were a strip of linen would around the head. These two are from a French manuscript from the 1220s - and you can even see the pin holding it together. This lady, from the Worcester cathedral, from the 1240s, has a pleated band wound around her head as a crown, but we can see where it overlaps. This 13th century lady from Dryburg Abbey appears ot have wound her pleated strip twice around her head. I haven't worn this variant yet, but since I have five metres of hemmed linen strip to wind around my head this is probably just a matter of time. And of boiling starch. Later one they appear to have become a separate piece, worn over the chin strap and sometimes also over a coif, but always under the veil, if worn with a veil (see the post linked above). A lot of these were plain, and I have one of those too, bust since it's only a piece of linen, cut at an angle at the edges, folded over, sewn together and starched slightly I didn't bother to take a photo of it. Plain fillets, from Reims cathedral, 13th century, and the Holkham Bible 1325-1330. But, there are also more decorated ones, in one way or the other, and that's what I am going to show you three examples of. 1. This is a fillet with a "wavy" edge. These are rather common in art, but whether the many examples of fillets with this kind of edge is the artists' way of showing pleating or actually shows a wavy upper edge is under debate. I however think that it is unlikely that so many artists, who have no problems showing pleats on for example sleeveheads on gardecorps should be unable to draw them on women's headwear. I think that there were several different ways to decorate a fillet, pleated, with a wavy or scalloped edge, edged with a braid etc. This fillet is based on St. Anna on this early 14th century altar frontal from Odda in Norway, seen below. Both her fillet and and her "chin strap" has rows of decorations which I have interpreted as braid, but could also be embroidery for instance. Another example showing a fillet with an edge of something thicker, maybe a braid, or a rolled piece of fabric is this s seal from c. 1300 (picture showing the imprint) My fillet has a silk cord sewn to it, but a more period solution would be a hand made braid or cord. The fillet is made from linen in a diamond twill, to add some interest to the simple white colour, and it is stiffened with heavy fusible interfacing. This was my first fillet, and today I would have either chosen vellum, which I'm told was used to stiffen some 13th century Spanish hats, or starch. To make the top wider than the bottom the pieces are cut at an angle where they are sewn together. A few more wavy fillets with some kind of edge decoration at the top: Roman del la Poire, 13th century And the ever popular Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift. 2. This fillet instead has a scalloped edge. There are quite a few images of these too. My first inspiration, the violent woman in blue in the Trinity Apocalypse. This one, from teh Maciejowski Bible also appears scalloped. But it is also slightly shaped, since the edges stand out. To achive this there is a wire sewn along all the scallops bty hand, before, again by hand, sewing the outer and inner layers together. Here you see that the strip is angled at the back. 3. Finally we have a pleated fillet, which is new, I made it this autumn. This is not my first try at a pleated fillet, but the less said about that other one, the better. I sewed wire to the edge of many metres of linen and knife pleated the whole thing. It was not a success. This one is also made from a long strip of linen, but instead of knife pleating it all I sewed tucks on the strip, levaing the top 1,5- 2 cm. After hemming it all of course. To give it some stability I sewed a strip of linen to the bottom edge. I contemplated sewign teh pleats to teh top edge of this strip too, but as you can see on the photo of me above, it keeps its shape pretty well anyway, with the help of spray starch. This, absolutely fabulous photo of Countess Margareta von Brabant, married to count Gerald von Gerle, taken by the German re-enactment group Amicorum Gratia shows a pleated fillet from above, and you see that it is double, though the inner layer also appears to be pleated. This may be next on my list. Again, this my be a strip of linen wound twice around the head. I'm not sure about this cosntruction with the tucks, but it does give a good Maciejowski bible look. This Italian manuscript from 1241 shows either a pleated, or a scalloped fillet which has decoration in yellow on it. I'm guessing pleating. This german one appears to have pleats both at the top and the bottom, and not much of an angle. My guess is that this is still a strip of linen just wound around the head. This one, from, the Rutland Psalter (ca 1260) is probably pleated in some way, but much less so than the one I have made. Anyway, there are a million medieval images showing this type of headwear, and showing these was not the point of this post, but to show different variants that I have made. And, hopefully, point out that these are three interpretations, and that there are many more to make. And therefore I end here.
One of the things that I really like about the 13th-early 14th century are the many varied ways to wear you hair - and headwear. Contrary to popular ideas hair was not always totally cover4d, not even on married women. I've written some about it on the page about my 13th century outfit with a Barbie pink gardecorps, but I thought that it would be nice with a blog post which focuses on this and show some more period examples. Unmarried women I'll start with (presumably) unmarried women, who are often seen with their hair hanging or, much more rarely, braided. Braid with gold ribbons and a circlet from the end of the 13th century, ow maybe her hair is just wrapped in ribbons and not braided. In any case it's not hanging loosely. Lausanne, Bibliothèque Cantonale et Universitaire U 964 - Biblia Porta fol. 178r On of the young women ion this awesome French 13th century image of the Devil tempting both sexes to have fun same-sex sexuality, also has a single braid or possibly unbraided hair wrapped in ribbons. Wavy/slightly curly hair was popular. Here with a circlet. ca 1300. Codex Manesse/Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift Here we see mother and daugher, showing the difference between a married woman with her chin strap and fillet and the daughter with a circlet in gold, tied with red ribbons. Codex Manesse/Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift Loose hair and circlets in France c 1250. The Maciejowski Bible It is of course hard to be sure about the marital status of all these women, but this woman wearing a hairnet is also probably unmarried, like her friends, since she's wearing only a circlet with her hairnet. It appears that the white wavy fillet and chin strap was a thing for married women. And don't be fooled by all the women with white fillets and/or veils being courted by knights - adoring a married woman was a thing in Courtly Culture. (A book tip: Courtly Culture by Joachim Bumke, a German historian. It is really,really good.) This image show the death of Nabal and what I presume is his wife and daughter, indicating that the white cap today mostly referred to as the St. Birgitta cap, was worn also by unmarried women. You also see that already in France c. 1250 married women wore a chin strap and fillet with loose hair under it. But, really, "everyone" already knows that unmarried women wore their hair uncovered in the Middle ages. The most interesting thing may be the image of the woman at the top with her hair braided in one single braid. This is not a style that we generally associate with the 13th and early 14th century, and one that I will get back to now that I turn to the married women. Married women I promised myself that this post wouldn't be about veils, so I will try to refrain from showing images just because I like the veils, filelts or chin straps. there has to be some hair too. We have already seen that a white fillet, often with a wavy or decorated edge (I write more about that here) was worn by many women together with either a chin band/barbette, or maybe a Birgitta cap under it; the image above could for instance show a cap insted of a strip of linen. On the other hand there are written sources telling about long strips of linen, called gebende, wound many times around the head (Bumke 2000 p 152) and the image may well show this instead. This is a lovely detail shot of Markgrafin Uta from the Naumburg cathedral, showing her wide gebende decorated with gold, but also some of her wavy hair at the temples. Photo from Wikimedia commons A much less well-known figure from the same cathedral is countess Gerburg von Brehna. She's not as pretty, but she has a braid! So, like Uta she has a crown with a pill box cap, a gebende wrapped around her head, and wavy hair showing at the temples, but, since we can see her from the side we also see that she has a single braid hainging down her back. Furthermore, if you look at my favourite of the Naumberg ladies: the happily smiling Reglindis you see that she also probably has a hanging braid. Image from wikimedia commons Oh, what I would give for a side view of Uta's head :) Narrower chinstraps were worn with a fillet and hanging hair as you have seen in the example of the motehr and daughter from the Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift above. The Weingartner Liederhandschrift, which is contemporary to it, but much less fancy seem to favour a slightly...sloppy approach to the white linen fillet. Image from wikimedia commons You also find many examples of hanging hair under a veil in the Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift. With veil and a circlet on top of it. And another one: And one with a pink veil draped over what appears to be a gold coloured band of some kind. No chinstraps as you can see on these images, but veils indicating married status anyway. Hair nets came in many colours, and were frequently worn with chinstrap and white fillet. Two examples from the Murthly Hours, a French mansucript fro the 1280s, show a green and a blue net respectively. And we also see that while prossibly shaped it is defintiely not a cap the woman with the green hairnet is wearing, which makes it less likely that it's a cap in the image of Nabal's death from the Maciejowski bible, since it looks just the same, except that we can't see the top of her head. Detail from fol 6 recto This is a gorgeous manuscript, which can be seen in its entirety at the web site of the national Library of Scotland. Lots of inspiration for illumination there. Another be-netted, fillet wearing...snake. From MS K26 at St.John's College, Cambridge. And a Norwegian early 14th century example, showing decorated hairnet, chin strap and fillet. So, hairnets are definitely an option, for married as well as for unmarried women - there are also quite a few of them preserved. This one is from the church of St. Truiden in Belgium, dated to the 13th century (link to museum site): And the same goes for this one, from the cathedral of St. Paul (link to museum site). As you see, they are first knotted and then embroidered. I'm ending this post with an image from the Rheims Missal 1285-1297, showing maybe a "Birgitta cap" with a fillet with wavy or dagged edge and a gebende. And wavy hair at the temples.
Medieval female hats and hairstyles of the 15th and 16th centuries. Modes of hairdressing. Modes de coiffures de femmes aux XVe et XVIe siècles.
Hannah Honors her Vow, Recreant Priests, Old Testament Miniatures, France, Paris, 1240s, MS M.638 (fol. 20r)
For many years I have been fond of pattenred or coloured veils - fro insance I'm wearing a striped veil on this photo of me in my pink cotte...
Bathsheba is Informed of Uriah's Death, David Weds Bathsheba, A Son is Born, The Lord is Displeased with David, Old Testament Miniatures, France, Paris, 1240s, MS M.638 (fol. 42v)
One of the things that I really like about the 13th-early 14th century are the many varied ways to wear you hair - and headwear. Contrary to popular ideas hair was not always totally cover4d, not even on married women. I've written some about it on the page about my 13th century outfit with a Barbie pink gardecorps, but I thought that it would be nice with a blog post which focuses on this and show some more period examples. Unmarried women I'll start with (presumably) unmarried women, who are often seen with their hair hanging or, much more rarely, braided. Braid with gold ribbons and a circlet from the end of the 13th century, ow maybe her hair is just wrapped in ribbons and not braided. In any case it's not hanging loosely. Lausanne, Bibliothèque Cantonale et Universitaire U 964 - Biblia Porta fol. 178r On of the young women ion this awesome French 13th century image of the Devil tempting both sexes to have fun same-sex sexuality, also has a single braid or possibly unbraided hair wrapped in ribbons. Wavy/slightly curly hair was popular. Here with a circlet. ca 1300. Codex Manesse/Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift Here we see mother and daugher, showing the difference between a married woman with her chin strap and fillet and the daughter with a circlet in gold, tied with red ribbons. Codex Manesse/Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift Loose hair and circlets in France c 1250. The Maciejowski Bible It is of course hard to be sure about the marital status of all these women, but this woman wearing a hairnet is also probably unmarried, like her friends, since she's wearing only a circlet with her hairnet. It appears that the white wavy fillet and chin strap was a thing for married women. And don't be fooled by all the women with white fillets and/or veils being courted by knights - adoring a married woman was a thing in Courtly Culture. (A book tip: Courtly Culture by Joachim Bumke, a German historian. It is really,really good.) This image show the death of Nabal and what I presume is his wife and daughter, indicating that the white cap today mostly referred to as the St. Birgitta cap, was worn also by unmarried women. You also see that already in France c. 1250 married women wore a chin strap and fillet with loose hair under it. But, really, "everyone" already knows that unmarried women wore their hair uncovered in the Middle ages. The most interesting thing may be the image of the woman at the top with her hair braided in one single braid. This is not a style that we generally associate with the 13th and early 14th century, and one that I will get back to now that I turn to the married women. Married women I promised myself that this post wouldn't be about veils, so I will try to refrain from showing images just because I like the veils, filelts or chin straps. there has to be some hair too. We have already seen that a white fillet, often with a wavy or decorated edge (I write more about that here) was worn by many women together with either a chin band/barbette, or maybe a Birgitta cap under it; the image above could for instance show a cap insted of a strip of linen. On the other hand there are written sources telling about long strips of linen, called gebende, wound many times around the head (Bumke 2000 p 152) and the image may well show this instead. This is a lovely detail shot of Markgrafin Uta from the Naumburg cathedral, showing her wide gebende decorated with gold, but also some of her wavy hair at the temples. Photo from Wikimedia commons A much less well-known figure from the same cathedral is countess Gerburg von Brehna. She's not as pretty, but she has a braid! So, like Uta she has a crown with a pill box cap, a gebende wrapped around her head, and wavy hair showing at the temples, but, since we can see her from the side we also see that she has a single braid hainging down her back. Furthermore, if you look at my favourite of the Naumberg ladies: the happily smiling Reglindis you see that she also probably has a hanging braid. Image from wikimedia commons Oh, what I would give for a side view of Uta's head :) Narrower chinstraps were worn with a fillet and hanging hair as you have seen in the example of the motehr and daughter from the Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift above. The Weingartner Liederhandschrift, which is contemporary to it, but much less fancy seem to favour a slightly...sloppy approach to the white linen fillet. Image from wikimedia commons You also find many examples of hanging hair under a veil in the Grosse Heidelberger Liederhandschrift. With veil and a circlet on top of it. And another one: And one with a pink veil draped over what appears to be a gold coloured band of some kind. No chinstraps as you can see on these images, but veils indicating married status anyway. Hair nets came in many colours, and were frequently worn with chinstrap and white fillet. Two examples from the Murthly Hours, a French mansucript fro the 1280s, show a green and a blue net respectively. And we also see that while prossibly shaped it is defintiely not a cap the woman with the green hairnet is wearing, which makes it less likely that it's a cap in the image of Nabal's death from the Maciejowski bible, since it looks just the same, except that we can't see the top of her head. Detail from fol 6 recto This is a gorgeous manuscript, which can be seen in its entirety at the web site of the national Library of Scotland. Lots of inspiration for illumination there. Another be-netted, fillet wearing...snake. From MS K26 at St.John's College, Cambridge. And a Norwegian early 14th century example, showing decorated hairnet, chin strap and fillet. So, hairnets are definitely an option, for married as well as for unmarried women - there are also quite a few of them preserved. This one is from the church of St. Truiden in Belgium, dated to the 13th century (link to museum site): And the same goes for this one, from the cathedral of St. Paul (link to museum site). As you see, they are first knotted and then embroidered. I'm ending this post with an image from the Rheims Missal 1285-1297, showing maybe a "Birgitta cap" with a fillet with wavy or dagged edge and a gebende. And wavy hair at the temples.
Era conosciuta, fino a poco tempo fa, come “la Compiuta Donzella”: così avevano soprannominata quella misteriosa poetessa gli eruditi dell’Ottocento, facendo eco ai poeti che corr…
Period Head Coverings OR, alternately, What Hat Goes with My Outfit? Part I: Early Period to 12th Century I’m not a “Cover your head!” Nazi, but I do think that it adds to the Med…
This is me trying on the hairnet I just made for wear with 13th-14th century costume. It is my first try at netting so it needs some work, and I could make the net finer next time, but it works well and looks like the coarser net pictured in the illustrations. (I figure the nets weren't really that coarse, just drawn that way. :) But maybe some of them were.) I just sort of stuffed my hair in it; I didn't put it up properly. I can see, looking at the period art, that the barbette (the strip around my chin) needs to be shaped differently, and in this art, the hair seems to be worn lower in the hairnet. (But I swear I've seen it somewhere, high on the side of the head like this, too.) Once I do that I will look just like the illustrations -- if I get rid of the glasses. :) That's the tough part. I also want to make a different fillet hat. This is just one I got cheap on Etsy -- it's OK. Ideally the next net will be silk, and perhaps have some beads. But I am not sure where to find the right silk for this. FOLLOW-UP COMMENT, next day: I tried it on again, and noticed that even with a barbette that is not quite the right shape (mine is just rectangular), it looks 100% better if you don't put it on straight up and down as it is here, but angled to the back. The barbette should be pinned together right at the crown of your head, which is the high point toward the back. If you do that the shape you get looks much more like the illustrations, and the barbette also seemed to fit much better. Now, I also notice that if I make a barbette that is shaped like the one in the illustrations, it would cover up the circular center of the hairnet, which, though you can't see it in these pictures, looks a bit untidy. (There are long stitches at the center that are gathered into a circle. When I try this net on, sometimes that area shows a bit under the fillet.) The wider barbette would cover up that central gather, and this may have actually been intentional, I suppose.
The Rochefoucauld Grail, a colourful, illustrated account of the knights of the round table is said to be one of the finest medieval texts in private hands.
Hola, Voy a pasaros unas links dado que parece haber un gran desconocimiento de la Baja Edad Media continuando con lo dicho en otros hilos . Recuerdo que este
Here's a further attempt at 1275-1300 or so headwear to wear with medieval garb. (Sorry, only the headwear is medieval in this pic, though.) The hairnet is the one I made a couple of weeks ago. The hat is a sort of "pie crust" hat like the ones in the Manesse Codex. It is made of linen. The linen barbette (chin band) is a new attempt, and if you look at the period pictures here you see that many of them have a line going up the side of the head, sort of angled in the middle of the barbette. Notice that my new version of the barbette also has this line! I need to pin the barbette lower on the upper back of my head, though, to get the most authentic look. See my previous picture for more examples of the hairnet in this type of style. This looks to me 100% better than the earlier picture I posted. It also seems to be very secure -- it's not going anywhere, unlike some of the veils I've worn on windy days! I believe I'll wear it to my next SCA event. See www.capiti.de/das-gebende.html which looks very much like this hat.
A friend asked for tips on suitable headwear for men from the 12th century, so I did a little research -after all I have quite a collection of medieval images in my computer, and on my pinterest album for the 11th and 12th century. There is an overweight for women's costume, naturally, but enough med to come up with a conclusion regarding men's headwear, which appears to be of five main types: 1. The hood. Which hasn't developed the liripipe yet. Fecamp psalter from Flanders. A peasant rakes down acorns to feed the swine. Note the embroidered decoration on his hood. Interesting is also his legwear, since he has boots, but no hose. Another one from the same manuscript: I actually use this one for teaching, but only to show the harrow, which is a medieval invention. He also lacks hose and his hood is checked with white edges as decoration. In the Fecamp psalter you also see the cucullus, a hooded closed cloak known since Roman times in Gallia. But that's not mainly headwear I guess. 2. The coif While more commonly seen in the 13th and early 14th century the coif probably has its origins in the 12th century; first worn to protect the hair against a maille hood, but soon spreading to other social circles and circumstances. Again there are nice examples from the Fécamp Psalter. As you see there are embroidered decorations on the coifs. Very nice. A German manuscript of Gregorius' Moralia in Job. Also with some decor around the edges. And here's a green one, also from Moralia in Job, but an English manuscript this time. From Spain we also find a preserved example from the 12th century 3. The Phrygian cap. Known since Ancient times and very popular in the 11th and 12 th centuries. Geoffrey Plantagenet, count of Anjou has the prettiest one: Embroidered with a lion and everything! But you find them in lots of manuscripts. This is a lovely one from a French manuscript. A French glass painting And a few German ones: This is from a lovely manuscript from Münich, from the very end of the 12th century. And some English Phrygian caps This one is from the late 11th century: And you see a Phrygian cap among some round hats behind the ladies here in the Hunterian Psalter: As you see sometimes you can see the curved shape of the cap and sometimes they just draw a triangle. This may represent different types of cap, but may also be a style of painting. or even the same type of cap made from different fabrics, where a stiff fabric won't fold over the way a thinner fabric does. Sometimes it is hard to discern the Phrygian cap from the next type: the round cap. Realism wasn't always the primary goal for the illuminators. 4. Round caps The Hunterian Psalter has more examples of round caps than the one shown above, like these: The ones to the left look like proper hipster caps. Just like the Phrygian caps (and coifs) the round caps could be decorated. The guy in the middle has an interesting cap. Chartres. Fécamp Psalter again, of course: The two-faced look may be hard to take after Or turned up in this sassy way 5. Hats to protect against the sun, probably from straw. The Fécamp psalter has some lovely hats that probably ar emade from straw, but sicne they are decorated, maybe with paint, you can't be certain. Finally there is this type of hat, which was used to designate Jewishness in paintings.
