How to make a Tassels Quilt Block: 12 1/2"x 12 1/2" (finished size 12"x 12" square once sewn into the quilt) all seams 1/4", all seams ironed open For a scrappy look, you will need eight rectangles cut 4"x7" of similar value for the body (Blue) and four squares cut 4"x 4" of the contrasting color (Yellow) for the tips. To get the best gradient effect try to pair a dark/medium value body with a light tip OR pair a light body with a darker tip. (If your scrap selection is not that extensive, you can repeat the same body twice and place them so that they are not directly next to one another within the block.) Layout in desired order Arrange them in the desired order. Alternating blocks become A and B as shown. I like to take a picture with my camera to refer to later when assembling them. Pull just the A blocks and place them FACE UP on the cutting board. Using the cutting board lines, locate from the corner 1 1/2" and 3 1/2" to position your Ruler for the first cut and then the second cut as shown with the arrows. First Cut A stack FACE UP Second Cut A stack FACE UP Second cut B stack (FACE DOWN) Pull the B blocks and place them Right-Side-Down then repeat what you have just done (the picture on the left shows the first cut already done and the ruler in place for the second cut). BE SURE that all the rectangles in stack A are Right-Side-Up & stack B are Right-Side-Down. This will result in the necessary mirror image & correct orientation. Cutting the TIPS four 4" squares for TIPS Stack your 4"x4" squares. Cut in the center at 2", then diagonally as shown. This will make a set of eight TIPS for A & eight for TIPS B. NOTE: the tips are easily mistaken for one another so pay attention to be sure they are correct before attaching to the body A & B. pre-sew Mock Up - it should look like this It is helpful to set the tips face up in place to get a visual of what they will look like and to be sure that you have picked up the right type. The extra Mock Up step is worth it. Once verified, flip them over into position, fabrics right sides together to sew them on. You can see how the ends hang off a bit (click to enlarge the photo to see a close up). The placement isn't super critical because they are trimmed down later, but it should be close. Flip Right Sides Together to sew Sew TIPS 1/4" seam to the BODY Chain piecing is great, however...if it's your first time with this technique... it may be a good idea to make the first block all the way from start to trim to be sure the tip placement is on target. I attached all tips to one side (took a picture of it on the design wall to show you-see below), snipped them apart and chain stitched the other side. TIPS attached to the first set Four A & Four B with TIPS sewn on Blocks with seams open ready to trim Iron all seams open It's OK that the tips look crooked and the blocks are askew. They will not be shaped like true rectangles at this stage but as long as the width can be trimmed to 3 1/2" and the height 6 1/2" you're good. Notice in the picture below that I've positioned the ruler to trim the right hand side but am also checking to be sure there is fabric under the 3 1/2" line of the ruler on the left hand side. TRIM TIME: a 6 1/2" ruler is ideal, but any will work. Trim each block to 3 1/2"x 6 1/2" by cutting about the same amount off all four sides. Doing so helps the TIPS remain a similar size. Underside Trimmed Next, lay them back in the original placement order and sew them together. Top row and then the bottom. Iron open seems. Sew the final seam joining the top and bottom row, matching the seams to create the finished 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" Tassels Block. Make sure the horizontal spike is in the lower left hand corner when doing the 8 rectangle sub-unit layout to ensure proper position for secondary star pattern. refer above to the original photo showing ABAB top row and BABA bottom row. One 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" square Tassels Block Complete The completed block is in the upper left of the picture below and I've placed various partially sewn parts on the design wall to illustrate how the secondary tassels appear once multiple blocks are together. The final quilt will most likely have the darks merging into the lights more gradually than this - but I wanted to illustrate where it's headed with the parts that I have made so far. Continue to make blocks until you have the desired number for the size of quilt you are making. Join the blocks in rows, columns and quilt as you like. This is my very first time to write a tutorial so please let me know immediately if you see any errors or have any questions. Thanks so much ! Karen Update: the lovely ladies of Friends+Fabric=A Modern Stash Bee (F+F=AMS) created blocks for me and I sewed them together along with a few more that I made. It was the perfect project for our first annual Modern Quilt Retreat. Tassels top finished at our MQG Retreat Nov 2012 Completed Quilt February 2013 Close Up of Finished Tassels Back of Tassels The Tassels Block was inspired by my Crush Quilt that I made using Dancing Twilight Pattern by Cheryl Malkowski which uses a different technique to create and the blocks are also a different proportion.

Instructions for Log Cabins The block we are making is a 12" finished (12.5" x 12.5" unfinished) log cabin block with a 4" finished center. There's no colorway, just scrappy using quilt shop quality quilting weight cottons. See https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vFpoX37B0FCSs7VeOBohR9ITxMcK9H_4 for a cutting plan. Here's how the block swap works: 1. Make as many blocks as you want and bring them to the Feb meeting. 2. You will get one entry into the lotto for every block you bring in. The more blocks you make, the better your odds are :) 3. Winner takes all blocks!

Today let's look at a second version of the Loop the Loop quilt block. A few days ago I did a tutorial for the Loop the Loop block and realized there was more than one way to sew it together. (You can check out the first version at https://fabric406.com/blogs/fabric406-blog/free-tutorial-loop-the-loop-quilt-block. I no

Oh, my poor neglected blog! It's been a whole month - I had a work trip, followed immediately by a visit from my mom and sister for Vada's birthday, and then I had to catch up on work... It was just one thing after another! For a few weeks, the only sewing I managed was this birthday outfit for Vada, just another appliqued t-shirt and circle skirt. (Yes, I am a one-trick pony!) Isn't she a cutie, though? It's the only year I could give her a "V" shirt (V being the roman numeral for 5 - get it?). It doesn't take much to amuse me! I love how her outfit matches her new bike - not planned at all. So, after life settled down a bit, I tried my usual trick for getting back into sewing. I took the old two-page list of UFOs and TODOs, and rewrote it. Somehow it still ran over to two pages! Drat - I'd better get busy! Still not motivated, I moved onto trick number 2 - an easy sewing task with a hard deadline. These are my blocks for the April "Faith" circle in the do. Good Stitches bee. I loved the rainbow theme, and I really loved the freedom to make blocks in whatever size we pleased. I was having so much fun, I made 3 blocks instead of 2. They are simple designs, but I guess that's just my style! So, that's one thing to cross off the new list! Yay! Now I need to get cracking on blocks for the second circle I joined - the new "Inspire" circle for Project Linus quilts. Next month is my turn to be the quilter for that circle, so I get to pick the theme. I'm a little nervous about it, but I think I picked something fun and flexible, so hopefully it will go smoothly.

Look what a beautiful block we have for block 11 of Moda Block Heads round 3. =)

Trading places can be so much fun and have such fantastic results! Make 9-patches, do a little slicing and dicing and you will soon have this cheerful quilt on a bed! Quilt pattern for 5” squares To learn how to easily construct this quilt block, watch our Quilt Snips Mini Tutorial. Finished size: 64” x 76 1/2” Block size: 12 1/2” Finished Pattern for 5" Squares

Scrappy Pinwheel in a Square. Three challenges in one! I’m so excited to share this new block with you all! Making a pinwheel block is a challenge, but then so is a square in a square block, – cutting all those extra triangles and then getting them lined up. More often than not these blocks … Continue reading Scrappy Pinwheel in a Square →

Jelly Roll House Block 1 Fabric Needed: 7 different 2.5 by Width of Fabric strips Cutting Instructions: Strips 1 ~ Sky Cut 2 squares - 2.5" Cut 1 rectangle - 2.5" by 3.5" Cut 1 rectangle - 2.5" by 8" Strip 2 ~ Roof Cut 1 rectangle - 2.5" by 12.5" Strip 3 ~ Chimney Cut 1 rectangle - 2.5" by 2" Strip 4 ~ Door Cut 1 rectangle - 2.5" by 4.5" Strip 5 ~ House Cut 4 rectangles 2.5" by 6.5" Trim to 2" by 6.5" Cut 6 rectangles 2.5" by 1.5" Strip 6 ~ Lower House Cut 2 rectangles - 2.5" by 5.5" (Note: if you have two of strip 5 you may cut all house pieces from 2 strips, if desired I like the scrappier look for this house.) Strip 7 ~ Windows Cut 2 squares - 2.5" Save all your leftover strip pieces for other House Blocks Sewing Steps: Step 1 Sewing: Sew 2.5" by 1.5" rectangles to top of 2.5" windows and top of 2.5" by 4.5" door. Sew 2.5 " by 1.5" chimney piece to 2.5" by 3.5" sky piece. Sew one 2.5" square onto corner of 2.5" by 12.5" roof piece as shown Tips: Press all seams open for a nice flat block. There are no nested seams in this block. I like to chain piece each step. I also like to cut the corner off the square, allowing for the 1/4" seam, before sewing onto the strip. You may draw a line or use the method most comfortable for you. I sew and save the HST for my scrap pieces basket. Step 2 Sewing: Sew window units together. Sew center window to top of door unit. Sew 2.5" by 8" sky piece to right of chimney. Sew 2.5" sky square to left side of roof unit, as shown, being careful to sew so to flip in the correct direction. Step 3 Sewing: Sew one 5.5" by 2" house rectangles to either side of window units. Step 4 Sewing: Sew 2.5" by 5.5" alternate house fabric to bottom of the window units. Step 5 Sewing: Sew Step 4 window units to either side of door unit. Sew chimney unit to roof unit. This is my unfinished Block 1 House, which measures 12.5 inches. This block will measure 12" square finished when sewn into a quilt. I pressed all seams open as I went along. Here is the back of my pressed block. This block measures 12.5" square, unfinished. This block was featured in my Welcome To My House Blog Hop Post Here If you sew this block pattern I would love to see your version! Happy Sewing!

Fast and easy Quilt block tutorials with easy to follow directions and diagrams to walk you through each step of creating the block.

How to Sew an Easy Crazy Quilt Block: It is ungodly hot outside, so it seemed like a pretty good day to sit in the basement and play with my sewing machine... and on days like this I tend to go for Crazy Quilt blocks, which look awesome, are super easy, and require very little actual m…

Colorburst Squares in TWO sizes: 66" x 76" with 10" finished blocks (30 blocks) 46" x 46" with 9" finished blocks (16 blocks) This is a great scrap buster quilt. You can piece these blocks using traditional cutting and stitching. OR, you can stack 10-1/2" squares in fives and make a few cuts, swap ONE piece, and then sew the blocks in the layers. Can you say "EASY?" This is a 12 page pdf with instructions for BOTH methods of creating the blocks. You will find that the "Stack and Swap" method is so quick and easy, you won't want to stop at one! It's easy to increase the size of the second version (for which I give # of squares needed) of quilt. Visit my blog on September 16 to see some photos.

I can not believe that June is nearly over…. this year is slipping away way to fast. It was with a small amount of panic that I realised this week that I was running out of time to fini…

Tutorial: Interlocking Seasons quilt block

Paula M Kim D. I pulled a few of the second block Lend & Borrow from our Facebook group and made them consistent by squaring...

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I am so so super excited that although I am not able to go to Quilt Market this year, one of my quilts will be going! Last week I was aske...

X and Plus Block Read Amy''s original tutorial for a 7 1/2" block on Badskirt japanese x and plus scrappy quilt tutorial aka the...

Let's look at this traditional quilt block called Jackknife (also known as Treasure Chest, and Night and Noon). I was perplexed about doing the strips sets for the corner units and getting the strips the right width so they would work in the block. So here's my method (no bias edges) for constructing the Jackknife!

The Everbloom Quilt pattern, a traditionally pieced quilt recommended for the intermediate sewist and up, includes instruction for two sizes: Crib and Large Throw Size. The Everbloom block finishes 12" x 21 1/2". This 12-page pattern is thorough, detailed, features colorful illustrations, and tags for labeling your cuts of fabric. Crib Quilt Size: 47 1/2" x 52 1/2" Larger Throw Size: 69 1/2" x 79" Designer: Pen + Paper Patterns Skill Level: Intermediate Pattern Return Policy: There are no refunds for patterns.

Today let's look at the Aunt Dinah quilt block. The traditional quilt block only uses two colors of fabric - light and dark - but of course I had to make it my own by using a light for the background, 2 medium tones, and a dark. I would consider this an easy intermediate block pattern to sew. Let's get started!

Create this traditional block using only two fabrics. The high contrast between light and dark colors makes for a stunning graphic design. The block also goes by the name Blazing Arrow Point. Let's get sewing!

Block 11 - Buttons and Spools This week’s block from the Patchsmith’s Sampler pattern book is the Block 11 – “Buttons and Spools”. It looks a little unbalanced when made due to the seam allowances but don't worry - once it is stitched into a project or quilt it will look perfect. I would rate this block as 'difficult' and suitable for experienced patchers as you are dealing with small pieces of fabric. However, if you are new to patchwork I have two larger blocks to share with you - either of which can be used in place of the trickier Block 11. If ‘Spools’ are your thing then you can substitute a Large Spool Block for Block 11. Large Spools are easier and you can have fun with the thread section To make a Large Spool block you will need to cut the pattern pieces as follows: A – Two 6½” x 2” rectangles (spool fabric) B – One 3½” square (thread fabric) C – Two 2 x 3½” background rectangles D – Four 2” background squares. You can add an extra touch by constructing the thread square (piece B) from three 3½” x 1½” strips of fabric as I did for the large yellow spool. Create a fun three-thread middle for the Large Spool Block Or you could go one step further and stitch six 3½” x 1” strips together to create a more detailed thread square (piece B). It really is quite simple to add interest to the Large Spool block. Whichever thread option you choose, just follow the ‘Spool Block’ instructions for Block 11 and you should end up with a Large Spool block measuring 6½” square. When it comes to the ‘Buttons’ for Block 11 you will find that the construction is made a tad easier using my stitch-and-slice method for making the buttonholes. Even so, the small buttonholes finish at just ¼” each. Those small buttonholes measure just ¼” each! So if you are new to patchwork or your ¼” seams are not quite there yet I would recommend making a Large Button Block instead. The Large Button Block measures 6½" when completed To make the Large Button Block you will need to cut your pieces as follows: E – Two 1¼” x 2½” black (buttonhole) rectangles F – Two 1” x 2½” rectangles (button fabric) G – Two 2½” squares (button fabric) H – Two 6½” x 2½” rectangles (button fabric) J – Four 2¼” background squares. Follow step 4 of the pattern to create a buttonhole unit measuring 2½” square. Cut this unit in half to create two buttonhole units each measuring 1¼” x 2½”. Follow step 5 to create the middle buttonhole section measuring 2½” square. The 'large' buttonhole unit should measure 2½" square Continue with the pattern to make a Large Button Block which measures 6½" square once step 8 is completed. And as an extra bonus if you make two Large Spool and two Large Button blocks..... Four Large Blocks come together .....you can stitch them together to create one big 12" (finished size) Buttons and Spools block. Now that really is an awful lot of fun to be had from one little block pattern. A 12" Buttons and Spools Block. You can find all the blocks from the book HERE or by clicking on the tab at the top of the page. UntiI next time I look forward to seeing your blocks on Instagram (block11buttonsandspools) or in the Flickr Group.

Let's sew together a Fair and Square quilt block today! This 12" traditional block appeared in the Kansas City Star and is a fun easy block to put together. Let's get started!

Much of last week and a chunk of the weekend I worked hard to try to finish up a baby quilt. I have a baby shower next weekend and this is the present so it has to get finished…luckily I did…

PLEASE FOLLOW DOWNLOADING INSTRUCTIONS BELOW We are so very, very excited to offer Ellis & Higgs quilt block patterns by Nadra Ridgeway!  Her lovely designs are easy to follow and especially creative as she adds a sweet touch that makes her patterns unique.  Using traditional quilt designs with simple angles and squares, Nadra takes it one step further to make her patterns look as lifelike as possible.  When you're reading through her pattern and sewing along, it's like having your pattern instructor right there with you as you construct each step.  We love sewing with her patterns!  This Lifesaver Block would be a perfect project for your Singer Featherweight.  The pattern is available in English. You can download and print it out immediately after purchase (Acrobat Reader required, www.adobe.com). UNFINISHED QUILT BLOCK SIZES: - 6 1/2" X 6 1/2" - 12 1/2 X 12 1/2" FINISHED QUILT BLOCK SIZES: - 6" x 6" (15.2 x 15.2 cm)- 12" x 12" (33 x 33 cm)PLEASE NOTE: This pattern contains no text, but only diagrams to describe the individual steps.THIS PATTERN INCLUDES:- Cover with a picture of the unfinished quilt blocks- Diagrammed step-by-step instructionsSKILL LEVEL: Advanced beginners NOTE: The quilt blocks contain some really small pieces, the smallest piece is a 1" x 2" square. MATERIALS NEEDED:Pink Print: 4" x 8" (12" block), 3" x 5" (6" block)Red Print: 10" x 12" (12" block), 6" x 8" (6" block) White Print: 10" x 12" (12" block), 6" x 8" (6" block) Background Fabric: 1 Fat Quarter (12" block), 10" x 10" (6" block) © 2019 Nadra Ridgeway, ellis & higgs. All rights reserved. This pattern is not available for commercial resale. Pattern duplication and sharing is prohibited. TERMS OF USE: You may sell handcrafted items made from this pattern under the following conditions: The item must be made by the individual that purchased the pattern. Keep a copy of the receipt as proof of purchase. The item must be made by hand, one at a time, mass production is not allowed. Credit must be given to ellis & higgs as the designer of the pattern on a tag affixed to each item. If selling online, the listing must contain a direct link to the original pattern. **DIGITAL PATTERN DOWNLOADING & POLICY DETAILS: Downloading When you complete your order, you will receive an email that says "Your downloads are ready".  In this email you will have a unique URL link to click on which will lead you back to our website and the following screen:     Click on the words "Download Now" so that a little window pops up for you to select whether you want to open it as a PDF or save it to your computer.  Be patient with your first attempt - the file is large, so it may take a few moments to load the PDF depending on your ISP connection speed. Once the window pops up you can select either option of whether to "Open" or "Save".  If saving it, just be sure to make a note of where you are saving it on your computer so you can retrieve it later. If you click on your download link and a web browser appears but only presents you with a white screen or downloading doesn't appear to take place, most likely there is an incompatibility between the web browser you are using, your system software, and the way our website serves files. First try switching to a different web browser. (For example, if you are using Internet Explorer, try starting the download with Firefox instead.  We have found that Firefox works very well!)However, if switching browsers does not work for you, try downloading it from your laptop or desktop computer rather than an iPad or mobile device.  This usually solves the issue as the iPad tends to hide downloaded files in odd places and requires a reader app to open it (Adobe Reader App or Kindle App are free).  If all else fails, you can forward your email link to a friend or local copy center business to have them download and print it for you. Digital Policy Details This digital product policy is designed to help you understand our commitment to you but also remind you of your responsibilities when you purchase digital products from The Featherweight Shop.  If you have a registered account with our website, then your order history is provided once you login to your account.  You can then download any digital product or pattern purchases at any time in the future using your order history.  Due to the nature of digital products, saving to computers, etc., refunds cannot be issued.  If you would like a hard copy of this pattern, then please feel free to forward the digital file that is emailed to you to a family member, friend or your local copy center for printing.  If you do not have a registered account, then please know that it is your responsibility to promptly download and save the file you purchased to your computer. Once you have downloaded and saved your item, safeguarding it is up to you. Be sure to back up your files, because it is not a matter of "if", but "when" your files will be lost. Carbonite, Backblaze or other backup file system is highly recommended. You set it up and never have to worry again.  However, if you ever need to recover your lost files, these backup programs are a life saver!

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Howdy, y'all. Today I'm taking you to the wild, wild west. (Disclaimer: It's actually Corrales, NM, which is more acurately the southwest.) Be forewarned, cowboy jargon awaits. Dude translation is available. Pony up, and take a gander (Dude translation: Hurry up, and take a look) at my latest finish. Here's the whole kit and caboodle (Dude translation: whole thing). I used Economy Blocks comprised of solids and prints from Sarah Jane's Wee Wander collection. They are all available from Fabric.com. I think the horses in the center are of the first water (Dude translation: first-class)! A few centers do not have horses; I wanted it to look like they absquatulated (Dude translation: left) their squares. Isn't it fine as cream gravy (Dude translation: very good)? I think so. Mosey along your little dogies (Dude translation: shuffle your calves along), while taking time to stop and smell the roses. Word to the wise, take a moment to ponder whether you are giving it a lick and a promise (Dude translation: behaving recklessly) by setting your quilt in a rose bush. When you try to remove it, there will be regrets. I tend to go through the mill (Dude translation: learn the hard way.) At risk of playing to the gallery (Dude translation: showing off), I'll leave you will one more shot. The backing is Glow Friends in Sea. If you think my Wee Wander quilt is of the first water (Dude translation: amazeballs), I'll explain so you can twig (Dude translation: understand) the process for making you own. Doesn't that take the rag off (Dude translation: beat all)? First, you'll need to cut your center squares. These are ideal for fussy cutting. Since I made six rows of four blocks for a crib size top using 10" finished blocks, I cut 24 5 1/2" squares. Economy Block Cutting Chart from Catbird Quilt Studio Get a wiggle on (Dude translation: hurry), and attach one of the smaller triangles to one side of the center square by hook or by crook (Dude translation: to whichever side of the square you want). Align the raw edge of the square with the longest side of the triangle. Don't just give it a lick and a promise (Dude translation: do it haphazardly), make sure the excess is extending evenly over each side. Sew with a 1/4" seam. Chain your squares through the machine without severing the thread between blocks. Flip the entire line of blocks around, and chain them through again. This time attach a triangle to the opposite side of the center square. This allows the piecing to be done across lots (Dude translation: most efficiently). Press both triangles away from the center square. Cut off the protruding corners. Add triangles to the remaining two sides. Press outward. Fetch (Dude translation: Get) masking tape to mark the measurement that is 1/2" larger than the visible part of the center square from corner to corner. I also mark the halfway points with a pen. Line up the block so that there is a 1/4" from the edge of the ruler and each corner of the center triangle. Trim the right and top sides. Then, rotate the block and repeat the process. Attach the longest side of two of the larger triangles to opposite sides of the square. Press outward. Cut off the protruding portions of the triangles. Here's what it should look like once the tiny overhanging corners have gone up the flume (Dude translation: are removed). Attach two additional larger triangles to the remaining opposite sides. Be careful to leave the same amount of fabric sticking out from the top and bottom. Square up your block to the finished size plus an additional 1/2" for seam allowance. There should be 1/4" distance between the edge of the block and the corners of the larger square. Making sure of this keeps your seam allowances in apple pie order (Dude translation: in perfect order). When sewing together blocks, put a pin through the corner of the square to make sure your points match. Pressing seams open reduces the bulk and results in a flatter, easier to quilt, top. I welcome your comments, especially if it's soft solder (Dude translation: flattery). If you make your own ace-high (Dude translation: first class) version of this bully (Dude translation: outstanding) quilt, I'd be powerful proud (Dude translation: very glad), if you'd add it to the Quilting Mod Flickr group. Download a PDF of the pattern on Craftsy. I'm linking up with the parties on my Linky Parties Page.

The Antique Tile quilt block is perfect for a beginneing quilter. But simple doesn't mean boring. See 15 ways to set them. The last one's a humdinger!

This beginner block is super easy with only three sizes of patches, no triangles, and lots of different looks depending on color placement. I'll show some different color and layout options at the end.

Here are more than 20 of our most popular pinwheel quilt block patterns to help inspire you to create your next quilt! Below you will find a wide selection of pinwheel quilts patterns - from easy to complex - in no particular order. Enjoy!

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In January, Team Nancy Zieman introduced the first of 12 blocks in the New! Summer Picnic 2019 FREE! Block of the Month Series. Find the January through