I cannot begin to tell you how good these are. There’s not much that can get me squeezing a fancy-nozzled icing bag, but I can’t get enough of these — and nor can those I make them for. Yes, they are retro, but they are no culinary exercise in irony. And while they are a bit fiddly to make, they’re not hard, and they are immensely rewarding. In order to help the yolk keep centred as they cook, I leave them lying on their sides in a dish (rather than sitting upright in their boxes) overnight out of the fridge before cooking them. It’s not a fail-safe guarantee, but it does seem to make a difference. For US cup measures, use the toggle at the top of the ingredients list.