This five-day hiking adventure through a Patagonian paradise is wild, wonderful and undeniably world-class. Words: Claire McCall Photos: James Baldwin Winter bathing. Walk slowly but steadily into the water. Do not dive. Do not hesitate. This advice about the dubious merits of a daily plunge into the icy cold is shared at the communal dinner table in Refugio Los Cuernos — the backpacker-like accommodation in the million-dollar setting of Torres del Paine National Park, Chile. Beyond the windows, the snowy steeples of the Andes rise from the shores of Lake Nordenskjöld, where our dinner companions, hardy and hearty, have recently