This is the kind of noodle stir-fry you’d order at a street stall in a night market, tossed over a flaming burner in less time than it takes to find a seat and served piping hot in a heaping mound. If cooked just right, the slick, thready noodles cling to your chopsticks and to each other in a fragrant mass, laced with the smoky aroma of the searing iron (called wok hei), and tangled with ribbons of cabbage, scallion, and shiitake mushrooms. Like fried rice, this is total comfort food.