On the first day of autumn this year, I returned to Gerês. Here, I found green tufts of moss, wet and lush, holly and hawthorn covered with red berries and arbutus trees filled with white flowers and fruit. I love this time of year and the earthy tones that define the autumn landscape of my favourite hills and fields. On my way home, I bought some chestnuts, pears and mushrooms to make this simple, seasonal and sophisticated meal – a fragrant and tasty roast inspired by a perfect autumn day.