"I stress the St John in our Eccles cake, as I am sure Eccles cake bakers in Eccles will not recognise them as an Eccles cake they know. Oddly enough, for a restaurant with a carnivorous reputation, we serve a vegetarian Eccles cake, omitting the traditional lard in the pastry; instead we use puff pastry, so apologies to Eccles, but this recipe's results are delicious and particularly fine when consumed with Lancashire cheese. If you have pastry left over, it freezes very well." Excerpted from Nose to Tail by Fergus Henderson (Ecco). Copyright © 2013.