This is a no-recipe recipe, a recipe without an ingredients list or steps It invites you to improvise in the kitchen. You don’t need much for this easy dinner: bone-in chicken thighs, canned crushed tomatoes, mozzarella, a little Parmesan or pecorino, zest from a lemon, olive oil and red-pepper flakes, maybe a few snips of basil if you can find any (If you can’t, don’t worry, it will still kill.) Toss the chicken in salt, pepper, zest, red-pepper flakes and a few glugs of olive oil, then get t