Iris Bloom Bonnet First and foremost: yes, this yarn is divine. Simply heavenly. Gorgeous, lovely to knit, and beautifully variegated. But even if you don't have or can't find this particular fiber, you're in luck, because I have a sneaking suspicion that this super fun hat would look great in almost any worsted weight yarn. And if that's not incentive enough to make this hat, then consider this: I actually wrote up two patterns for this little beauty - one version that includes knitting in the round, and one that's made entirely on straight needles. Both begin in the same way, below. Note as of 11/24/15: This hat fits like an adult small. I have adapted the in-the-round version of the pattern for an adult large in the comments below. :) Update February 22, 2021: For some reason, the comments no longer seem to work on this post. Please email me with any questions at [email protected]. Yarn: Malabrigo Rios (100% Merino Superwash; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #416 Indiecita - one skein This stitch pattern makes me wanna say "yeah!" My kids would be so embarrassed. Needles: One set of straight needles in size US 5, one set of straight needles in size US 7, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 7 (if you're knitting it entirely on straight needles, you don't need the circulars or dpns) Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette So let's get started! For either version of this hat, we'll be working from the brim of the piece, and we'll begin by working back and forth rather than in the round. As such, using your straight needles in size US 5, cast on 118 stitches loosely. Then work the following rows: Edging Row 1 (wrong side): p2, * k2, p2; rep from * Edging Row 2: k2, * p2, k2 * Knit rows 1 & 2 until the piece measures just over 1" and you've just finished Edging Row 1. Then we'll knit one marker placement row, as follows: Marker Placement Row (right side): k2, (p2, k2) 4 times, place marker, (p2, k2) 20 times, p2, place marker, k2, * p2, k2 * until end of row Complete this marker placement row and switch to your straight size US 7 needles. Then, we'll begin the main pattern, which is Knit-Twist Lattice from page 149 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. To do it, you'll need the following notation: rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right) You can also find videos for these techniques below: And once you've got that down, we'll proceed like so: Row 1 and all odd rows (wrong side): purl, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (114 stitches) Row 4: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (110 stitches) Row 6: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (106 stitches) Row 8: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (104 stitches) Row 10: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (102 stitches) Row 12: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (100 stitches) Row 14: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (98 stitches) Row 16: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (96 stitches) Knit rows 1 - 16. At this point, our pattern diverges - first, I will give instructions for how to proceed with this hat in the round. After that, you'll find instructions for finishing it up on straight needles. So, first, the in the round version: Now that we've finished these 16 rows, you should be about to begin a wrong side row. Instead of doing that, however, we're going to join this bad boy in the round. With that in mind, transfer work to your 16" circular needle in size US 7, place marker, and join in round. And then we'll continue like so: Row 1 and all odd rows: knit, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 16: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until end of round Knit rows 1 - 16, and then knit row 1 again, removing extra markers when you come to them. Now it's time to begin the decrease portion of the hat, which goes as follows: Row 1: knit Row 2: * k10, k2tog * (88 stitches) Rows 3 & 4: knit Row 5: * k9, k2tog * (80 stitches) Row 6: knit Row 7: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches) Row 8: knit You will probably want to switch to your dpns about now... Row 9: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches) Row 10: * k6, k2tog * (56 stitches) Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches) Row 12: * k4, k2tog * (40 stitches) Row 13: * k3, k2tog * (32 stitches) Row 14: * k2, k2tog * (24 stitches) Row 15: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches) Row 16: * k2tog * (8 stitches) Knit rows 1 - 16, clip your yarn tail, and thread through final 8 stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. And now skip to the verrrrrry end of the post (right above the pictures), for the last bit of instructions. And while you in-the-round knitters are doing that, I'll finish up with the straight needle knitters. So if you're working on straight needles, pick up here! Last I left you, you had just finished knitting 16 rows in pattern with decreases. You're going to be continuing in much the same fashion at this point, except without the decreases. So let's proceed like so: Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 16: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until end of round Knit rows 1 - 16 and then knit row 1 again, removing extra markers when you work it. Now it's time to begin the decrease portion of the hat, which goes as follows: Row 1 (right side): knit Row 2: * p2tog, p10 * (88 stitches) Row 3: knit Row 4: purl Row 5: * k9, k2tog * (80 stitches) Row 6: purl Row 7: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches) Row 8: purl Row 9: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches) Row 10: * p2tog, p6 * (56 stitches) Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches) Row 12: * p2tog, p4 * (40 stitches) Row 13: * k3, k2tog * (32 stitches) Row 14: * p2tog, p2 * (24 stitches) Row 15: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches) Row 16: * p2tog * (8 stitches) Knit decrease rows 1 - 16, and then thread final 8 stitches to a scrap of yarn to hold for later. Beginning from where you stopped doing decreases in the original pattern (and where the in-the-round knitters switched to the round), seam hat. When you reach the top, pull seaming thread through final 8 stitches and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. And now, for both in-the-round and straight needle knitters, we'll wrap up like so: Make 2 roughly 6" yarn tassels (instructions here) and attach to bottom corners of hat. Tuck in ends. Finally, if you completed this hat in the round, you may want to knot together the two stitches where you joined this hat in the round - although it should be fine structurally either way, knotting them will prevent them from pulling apart when this hat is worn. And let's face it - with a hat this cute, you're going to be wearing it a LOT.