Fresh-faced fennel turns into one of the most dazzling cooked vegetables in the plant kingdom after some time in the oven. Its anise flavours mellow and sweeten, its fronds crisp up and turn gold. And although it’s lovely just by itself, with backing vocals of sun-dried tomato, herbs and spelt in tow, a new star (or at least a good salad) is born. I like to eat this with a side of lemon-dressed rocket