I have a particular fondness for this dried-fruit tea bread. My late sister Thomasina lived and worked in Wales, and my first taste of bara brith came courtesy of her neighbour, Dai, more than 30 years ago. It’s extraordinarily simple to make: you steep dried fruits, mixed spice and treacly sugar in hot tea overnight, then the next day you stir in an egg and some flour and pop it in the oven. The only difficult thing is having to wait a couple of days before eating it – but to taste bara brith at its best, I would beg you to be patient. I spread slices generously with Welsh salted butter. It would be rude not to.