These delightful, soft, cake-like cookies are from the coast of Tuscany, around Versilia, and are traditionally made for January 5, the eve of the Epiphany, when the Befana comes to visit Italian children to place delicious treats in the stockings of the children who have been good, and coal for those who have been bad. The recipe makes plenty—around 50—cookies that not only are for putting into stockings but also for wrapping up in colorful packages to give to friends and family. These are also ideal for making with children, too, who will love cutting out the shapes and decorating. Some like to use aniseed liqueur instead of the rum (I like Alchermes, which gives the dough a rosy hue) or you can leave it out and use just an extra splash of milk instead. This recipe is adapted from Paolo Petroni’s Il Grande Libro della Vera Cucina Toscana.